image
Page 3 of 9 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 89

Thread: 12v regulator or straight from 3s lipo?

  1. #21
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    387
    I'm building a 4S system with a 5v tx (Lawmate) and a 12v cam. Can anybody point me to a good switching regulator to take my 16v down to 12v? Many thanks.

  2. #22
    FPV Addict Scotttu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Silverdale, WA, USA
    Posts
    9,997
    ^-TBS CORE.
    "Truly superior pilots are those who use their superior judgment to avoid those situations where they might have to use their superior skills"- Author unknown

    KF7TRX

  3. #23
    Pilot
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,076
    Quote Originally Posted by bicycle View Post
    If a camera is sold as a 12v camera...

    and it works from 7-14v...

    that's bonus capability, not given capability
    Obviously, you wanna check/test before you fly and lose video when the lipo drops to 10v
    Reading's too hard.

  4. #24
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by Scotttu View Post
    ^-TBS CORE.
    Thanks, just received my Fatshark 5.8 module from them & RHP Patch - 2.5km and perfect signal. Quality stuff. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater

    But... more than $100 to buy and ship to here.. That's a tiny bit more I than I want to pay for a regulator.

  5. #25
    Kiwi in Germany whakahere's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    3,519
    Quote Originally Posted by s_mack View Post

    Anyway, it doesn't really look like I'm going to get the answers on this forum that I was hoping. When I saw "lab" I thought perhaps there'd be a little more science vs guesswork gut feelings. Thanks anyway.
    haha and a winning comment like this will lead to people helping you out. Then I noticed that you use a flight battery. So good luck and go and join rcgroups. I am not going to give you any more advice. have fun with your FPV adventure.
    Whaka's Tinkerings blog --> http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?36623-Whaka-s-Tinkering&p=631753#post631753
    Battle H Virus (home build basher quad tutorial) --> ]http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?12544-Tutorial-Battle-H-Virus
    Range record on 5.8ghz 200mw 24km --> http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1441664

    The one thing I know how to do well with FPV - crash. All in a day of fun!
    I believe landing is a full body experience .... I do my best to aim for your body.

  6. #26
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by Scotttu View Post
    I run a regulator on my 3S system - the EZStar, with a 12v cam and have run it down to 9.1v without loss of video.

    I have JUST put together a plane with another nghobbies regulator, cheap but they work - and I have flown them before but only down to 10v.

    Having a regulator seems to be nice, not sure if it's required for 12v system (3S)......

    Jump to 4:45 - and the color distortion is because I am below LOS - pretty good for a 12-20' drop in elevation and no los .
    Loved your vid! Good spot to "lose" a plane

    I've had a look at the nghobbies regulator, but I'm worried by their notice: "For 12V output please make sure you supply 13.5V or more at the input but less than the maximum allowed 23V.".

    Does this mean that if your supply drops below 13.5 it will cut out?

    Pity they're out of stock.

    P.S. What do you think of this? http://www.bevrc.com/voltage-regulat...down_p112.html
    Last edited by heinduplessis; 19th November 2012 at 10:23 AM.

  7. #27
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    West Kelowna, BC, Canada
    Posts
    42
    While I appreciate "advice", it would be better if it were given from a position of understanding. I'm really sorry, but its rather clear you don't understand more than the very basics of voltage regulation so why did you feel it appropriate to offer advice on the matter?

    Look, I realize this is coming off a bit rude... and I'm sure many would sugar coat it. But its better to say "I don't know" or simply don't weigh in on a subject when you don't know the answer. Its fine that you told me what you do with your setup... and obviously that works for you. I already know what "works"... what I'm looking for is best practices (not just "my practices").

    "Then I noticed that you use a flight battery". Don't you? Your model would just sit on the ground if you didn't. If you mean to suggest that I power video from my flight battery... that's a strange thing to "notice" since I never gave that indication at all (though others here have, and that is a bit scary. For a variety of reasons they should be independently powered. There's a couple good reasons to combine them too... but I wouldn't go very far like that).

    Anyhow, I'm sorry to have offended you. But I do believe that providing "advice" without some significant knowledge on the subject is providing more disservice than service. That's what RCG is for. As I stated, I expected more "lab" from a lab, that's all. If I'm not welcome here for that, so be it.

  8. #28
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    West Kelowna, BC, Canada
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by heinduplessis View Post
    Loved your vid! Good spot to "lose" a plane

    I've had a look at the nghobbies regulator, but I'm worried by their notice: "For 12V output please make sure you supply 13.5V or more at the input but less than the maximum allowed 23V.".

    Does this mean that if your supply drops below 13.5 it will cut out?

    Pity they're out of stock.

    P.S. What do you think of this? http://www.bevrc.com/voltage-regulat...down_p112.html
    Yes, that's what it means. There seems to be a lot of confusion on regulators. in a nutshell:

    Linear: Minimum voltage in must equal regulated voltage out, plus the drop out. Your voltage in MUST remain above that, but you don't want it too far above that as the rest is wasted (converted to heat).

    Switching (step down): Similarly, input voltage must be above regulated voltage. Far more efficient if input voltage is considerably higher than output voltage.

    Switching (step up): Opposite. You provide it a lower voltage and it regulates it up. Probably won't see these too often in FPV.

    SEPIC type: Very applicable to FPV because much of our equipment needs 12v and many of our inputs are close to 12v. This type can take ANY voltage in its stated range and output ANY voltage in its stated range. Why this is so important for 12v with 3S lipo is because when your Lipo is 12.6, it regulates to 12v. When it drops to 12v its still regulated to 12v. When it drops down to 10v... its still regulated to 12v. The other types above CANT DO THIS.

    They all have their places. If you need/want steady 12v then I would suggest a SEPIC type is the best for FPV. Using a 4s (or more) dedicated to video is wasteful, but necessary if you insist on using a linear or step-down type. I would suggest there's really no good reason to use a step down and a 4s. A linear with a 4s can make sense. Even though its wasteful, it doesn't produce the type of noise that ALL switching regulators do so you'll (in theory) get better video without worrying about filters and such.

    Summary:

    If you want 12v out, either use
    1. a 4S with a linear 12v regulator for simplicity, less weight (in terms of regulator), and less concerns about noise affecting video quality and range.
    2. a 3S with a sepic type 12v regulator for much greater efficiency and less weight (in terms of battery. A 4s weighs more than a 3s with the same capacity).
    Last edited by s_mack; 19th November 2012 at 11:57 AM.

  9. #29
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    West Kelowna, BC, Canada
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by heinduplessis View Post
    That's a step down. Same problem as the one you were worried about. They don't state it clearly, but you still have to provide a higher voltage to get the regulated one you want. They write:
    Volt input: 4.5-35V
    Volt output: 1.25-30V adjustable randomly
    But you can't, for example, input 4.5V and expect to get 30V... even though that appears to be what they've indicated. Roughly speaking, if you put in 4.5 you'll get out 1.25 and to get 30v out you'd have to put in 35v. For 12 v, its probably something like 14.5 minimum (but I'm just guessing based on the rough figures they provide)

    From that same supplier, look at this: http://www.bevrc.com/voltage-regulat...dule_p143.html

    They don't state it, but it is a SEPIC type. Nice that they supply it in a can (for noise)! But otherwise I can't comment on quality.

  10. #30
    I Like Waffles... SENTRY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    10,843
    S_MACK

    This a message board. Not everyone will agree with you. You are going to want to do your own testing. But it doesn't take a brain surgeon to see the benefit of stepping down from 4s if you want to run 12v components. You have been presented with many "opinions", facts, and real-world information. Forgive me if the "opinion" of SEASONED operators isn't "lab" enough for you. The lab gets you close - but nothing tests FPV like actually doing the testing in the real-world.

    I don't have a single scope in my lab. I don't have a single tool to measure rf in my lab. By your comments I should steer clear of your thread (or any other threads) bc "what I know" and "what I have proven to work" isn't scientific enough for you. There are the guys that hunch over the workbench in the basement for hours - and then there's me - the guy that flys before work - and leaves my house at midnight most nights and puts a couple hours of flying in again.

    You seem to not want people's answers/opinions - but you want some1 to just agree with you. You're sold on SEPIC v/r - great - just use it. Lots of guys run buck/boost converters - it's not anything unheard of here at all.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by SENTRY; 19th November 2012 at 02:38 PM.
    "I Like Waffles" : FPVLab on Facebook and FPVLab on Twitter

Page 3 of 9 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. TBS LiPo - super-durable, high voltage lipo
    By Trappy in forum Team-Black Sheep
    Replies: 81
    Last Post: 9th October 2013, 12:45 AM
  2. Replies: 13
    Last Post: 1st July 2013, 07:27 AM
  3. Sander Style EZUHF antenna placement on a Straight Wing platform (skywalker)
    By ajhaggerty in forum IFR - Video Link Discussion
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 23rd June 2012, 03:13 PM
  4. RiteWing ZII - Keeping the Wings Straight
    By CAM71 in forum RC TECH
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 7th June 2012, 11:05 PM
  5. Pan Tilt on Quad that can look straight down?
    By schnellschnell in forum ROTORCRAFT
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 13th April 2012, 03:23 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •