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Thread: Traveller's Disco adventure

  1. #1
    Navigator Traveller's Avatar
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    Traveller's Disco adventure

    (First of all, parden my bad gramma )

    So let's get started!

    Last week Friday I received my new Team Blacksheep "Discovery"
    Trappy asked me if was going to do a build log, so here it is.
    I will do my best to ad as much detail as i can.

    Trappy Dude! I must say this thing is very well designed (I.m.o)
    Everything is nice and strait forward for the build and looks of very good quality!
    The frame plates feel strong and the placements of all the components is very well thought out! congrats!

    This is the setup I will be starting off with for my test fase. (The setup is inspired by Juz and Enthlapy's build's):

    Motors: HK’s NTM 28-26 1200kv for now. (I'm looking at these one's at the moment http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...50KV_310W.html They actually seem to better suit my setup wishes)
    Ecs: HK 30 Amp plush
    Lipo: 3.3A 4s Nano tech (35-70C) (probably overkill, but it’s what I have laying around)

    FC: Open pilot Copter Control
    Bec to power the CC: TGY 5A low noise UBEC (I went with this because I've had some issues running my CC off a ESC BEC on 4s in the past)
    RCRX: Hitec optima 7 (I need to get myself a UHF system badly!!!)

    Video gear:

    TBS core
    Vtx: IRC 5.8Ghz 600mw
    Antenna: 5.8Ghz CP from http://www.circular-wireless.com/en/...r-wheel/spw58/
    Cam’s: SC2000 600TVL / GoPro H2

    More or less all the parts (still waiting for some gear):

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    Fase 1: Soldering the RC pin-headers

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    Done!

    Fase 2: Soldering the TBS CORE

    I started off with first soldering the added strait pin headers to the Core and then soldering the Core to the bottom frame plate (Bad idea!!!! WARNING!!!! for everyone who has mild soldering skill's, FIRST solder the added pin headers to the Frame plate and then solder the CORE to the frame!!!! It saves you a huge amount of frustration trying to remove excess solder.)

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    This was the hard part as you can see in the next picture. I used a bit to much solder which joined a couple of the pin's.

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    After some painstaking precision work i was able to fix it

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    TBS CORE Done!

    Fase 3: Soldering the ESC's and power lead

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    Pretty much speaks for itself.

    Fase 4: Spacers, Arms and motors

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    Don't forget to ad a drop of lock tight to the screws for the spacers.

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    TIME FOR A UPDATE....

    Testing out a idea i saw somewhere to isolate the FC from vibrations.. kind curious if this is going to work (disclaimer, this is knot my idea. I saw it somewhere but can't remember where anymore, sorry)

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    Well this is it for now, I will update the build log as soon as i can.

    If anyone has any comment or advice pleas let me know! i will greatly appreciate feedback!
    Last edited by Traveller; 26th June 2012 at 01:56 PM.
    "For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return." - Leonardo da vinci



  2. #2
    Navigator Traveller's Avatar
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    Hey everybody,

    So I finally had a chance to maiden this fantastic new quad!
    (pleas keep in mind that this the maiden flight, i still have to tweak it allot for my flying stile)

    Last edited by Traveller; 2nd July 2012 at 07:25 AM.
    "For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return." - Leonardo da vinci



  3. #3
    looking very good! some input as there is no manual available yet.

    * best place to mount VTx: on the right arm, behind, pointing up vertical (be sure to properly damp the VTx)
    * TBS CORE soldering. First on the plate, then on the CORE. TBS CORE should touch the plate. Use a lot of heat on the soldering iron for this so that the solder flows down, the pins are not long enough to just put solder on top.
    * RX mount: for maximum crash resistance we suggest to use servo leads to the receiver, not bolting the receiver directly to the frame. we are working on solutions for this.
    * Connector pinouts: the pinouts on the pads are not equal to the pinouts on the connectors next to the pads. the easiest ist to use a multimeter to determine the pinouts. for the VTx the supplied lawmate pigtails are in correct pinout. For the camera it's not. Simplest fix is to use the solder pads for the camera, those are labelled. As you are using the IRC 5.8G, you need to jump the CORE to 12V for TX and supply power to it from the CORE (best use solder pads also).
    Last edited by Trappy; 24th June 2012 at 07:34 PM.

  4. #4
    Banana Drone Flying Monkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
    (First of all, parden my bad gramma )
    (I'm looking at these one's at the moment http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...50KV_310W.html They actually seem to better suit my setup wishes)
    Hmm... Slightly higher Kv, slightly higher wattage rating, can take way more amps. Might be good...

    I got the ntm 750kv 140w just because I love long flight times and good stability in wind. Annoyed that they're a little heavier that your 1200kv 250w! Tried them out on my tricopter today, it was wimpy on 3s, and plenty good on 4s. They'll be adding a brother and hopefully the resulting quad will have enough juice on 3s... and kickass on 4s. Have been thinking about building a quad with the 1200kv though. Flying Monkey wants to go UP... FAST!!!

    Anyways, wanted to subscribe here too....
    "You can't take the sky from me"

  5. #5
    Navigator Traveller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trappy View Post
    looking very good! some input as there is no manual available yet.

    * best place to mount VTx: on the right arm, behind, pointing up vertical (be sure to properly damp the VTx)
    * TBS CORE soldering. First on the plate, then on the CORE. TBS CORE should touch the plate. Use a lot of heat on the soldering iron for this so that the solder flows down, the pins are not long enough to just put solder on top.
    * RX mount: for maximum crash resistance we suggest to use servo leads to the receiver, not bolting the receiver directly to the frame. we are working on solutions for this.
    * Connector pinouts: the pinouts on the pads are not equal to the pinouts on the connectors next to the pads. the easiest ist to use a multimeter to determine the pinouts. for the VTx the supplied lawmate pigtails are in correct pinout. For the camera it's not. Simplest fix is to use the solder pads for the camera, those are labelled. As you are using the IRC 5.8G, you need to jump the CORE to 12V for TX and supply power to it from the CORE (best use solder pads also).
    Thanks for the input Trappy!
    "For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return." - Leonardo da vinci



  6. #6
    Navigator Traveller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Monkey View Post
    Hmm... Slightly higher Kv, slightly higher wattage rating, can take way more amps. Might be good...

    I got the ntm 750kv 140w just because I love long flight times and good stability in wind. Annoyed that they're a little heavier that your 1200kv 250w! Tried them out on my tricopter today, it was wimpy on 3s, and plenty good on 4s. They'll be adding a brother and hopefully the resulting quad will have enough juice on 3s... and kickass on 4s. Have been thinking about building a quad with the 1200kv though. Flying Monkey wants to go UP... FAST!!!

    Anyways, wanted to subscribe here too....
    Hey Flying Monkey, sorry for the late reply mate! but i was wondering do you already have the 1200 kv's? if knot and you chose to get the 1350's pleas let me know how they are!

    Because me want to go up fast as wel!!!!!
    "For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return." - Leonardo da vinci



  7. #7
    Navigator Traveller's Avatar
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    Got some new gear in today!

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    "For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return." - Leonardo da vinci



  8. #8
    I´m lost
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    these watt ratings from HK seem a bit off... hope so because I got the 750 KV ones. maybe they tested both with the same prop size.

    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Monkey View Post

    I got the ntm 750kv 140w just because I love long flight times and good stability in wind. Annoyed that they're a little heavier that your 1200kv 250w!
    seeing the world through a security camera

  9. #9
    Banana Drone Flying Monkey's Avatar
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    The watt ratings are a bit off... I just go by the max amp draw. I figure all the NTM's are tested the same way... so the watt rating is just comparative.

    I tested the NTM 750kv 140w motor on my test stand and got the following results...

    NTM 140w --- Voltage - Amps - Wattage - Thrust - Amps @ 10oz Thrust - 1 oz thrust = watts
    Gem 10x4.7 --- 12 ------11.4 --- 137.3 ------ 28 ------- 4.5 ------------------------ 4.9
    Gem 11x4.7 ---11.88 -- 13.5 --- 160.6 ------- 33.4 ----- 4.2 ----------------------- 4.8
    apc 10x4.7 SF - 11.91 - 11.3 --- 135.2 ------- 28.1 ----- 4.2 ----------------------- 4.8
    -------------------- 4s -------------------
    APC 10x4.7 ----- 16.06 --- 17----- 273.1 ----- 42.5
    Gemfan 10x4.7 - 15.97 --- 15.6 -- 249.1 ----- 41.1

    I don't have the 1200kv one yet. I was thinking about ordering a 1200kv and the 1350kv and testing them on my test stand... but I really shouldn't spend any more money right now.

    I'm actually a little disappointed in the 750kv 140w motor. Testing them on my tri and its under powered on 3s. Tried it on 4s and it'll hover below 50% throttle and has nice power, but nothing spectacular. The weird thing... I flashed my esc's to simonk and it made all the difference on 3s, I can descend rapidly without wobbles, I turned the gyro gain up from 40% to 75% and its very responsive. But on 4s its twitchy as hell, had to turn the gyro gain back down to 60% just so it wouldn't oscillate in hover and it wobbles while descending pretty bad. I would've thought more voltage, more power, more responsiveness??? Not less. Oh well, I got a 4th and they're going on a quad... should have enough thrust then.
    "You can't take the sky from me"

  10. #10
    I´m lost
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    Nice tests! My intent is certainly 4s from the beginning, for efficiency´s sake.
    Doing the SimonK thingy too.....

    Maybe getting fast ESC´s and motors makes the frame suffer more flex.

    Very personally, I think DJI arms could use a bit more stiffness along thrust line.
    seeing the world through a security camera

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