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Thread: Dog fighting anyone?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeloncik View Post
    I am definitely going to give it a go, but to be honest, I could probably use some help with the microcontroller bit. I know my way around code, so I don't think it will be too difficult to get a prototype working. What I have no clue about is how to take a working prototype and productionize it. I'd be happy to work together on it with you if you want. I will take a look at the AtTiny 13. I am planning to prototype on an Arduino mainly because the code syntax is familiar.
    -JB
    Looks like we have a similiar skillset here. Mine is: Programming: yes, embedded: some. Board layout / knowledge how to get boards manufactured: nothing.

    However I think the programming task is too small to really divide it between two people. It should not take more than a few hours to do a complete solution. So do you mind if we both give it a try since we are aiming at different platforms for our first shot (arduino vs. attiny)?

  2. #42
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    Yeah, no problem. I think ATtiny would definitely be the better route in the long run to keep it small and light. I have the Arduino board on the way, so I'm gonna try to make it work there first, and see how it goes. I just found this too, BTW: http://hackaday.com/2011/09/13/attin...-on-an-attiny/

    From a coding perspective, Arduino has abstracted all of the complex C stuff, so that will be MUCH easier for me. I took C in school, but I never got to the point where I felt like I was really comfortable with it. I have been spoiled over the years with easier languages like Perl and PHP so the Arduino IDE looks perfect for me Maybe if I get it working well, I will try to port it to ATtiny. (if you haven't already got it working!) Hell, even if you do have it working, I'd like to do it anyway just to learn from it! I never really looked into micro controllers until now, but I am pretty excited now...this is some cool sh*t!

  3. #43
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    Ok so I updated the schematic. Hopefully this will be easier to make. This one is not tested yet. No ammo limiter either. I'm looking to keep down the parts count, though. The status LEDs have changed. I know the gun will fire and the module will receive fire. The question is: does the motor shut down work and do the status LEDs work?


    The more complex unit works completely. The simple one is unknown.


    We'll see. I might build it up this weekend.


    -Alex
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    If it is broken, fix it. if it isn't broken, I'll soon fix that.

    [url]videoaerialsystems.com[/url] - Performance video piloting

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by IBCrazy View Post
    Ok, so the analog design works! Now I'd love to make this Here's what I'd need:

    Input 1 - fire (when line is 5V)
    Output 1 - 38khz 5V signal for 3 seconds.

    Input 2 - Hit (when line is grounded)
    Input 3 - (analog) Time setting set via voltage range 0f 0-5 V corresponding to 0-10 seconds

    Output 2 - Hit taken. Outputs 5V for the amount of time set at the time setting.
    Output 3 - Status. Outputs 5V if not hit. If hit, it outputs 0V.
    For Output 1: How precise does the signal have to match 38khz? Edit: Found a way to be more precise ... so I'm between 37.88khz and 38.17khz now. Is this enough?

    Is Output3 simply Output 2 inverted? If not: How do they differ? Would it be possible to skip Output3 for the prototypes? (The uC I'm using has precisely 6 i/o-Pins. However to use the 6th pin I have to pratically give up the possibility to reprogram it for the future)
    Last edited by after.burner; 4th February 2012 at 11:46 AM.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by after.burner View Post
    For Output 1: How precise does the signal have to match 38khz? Edit: Found a way to be more precise ... so I'm between 37.88khz and 38.17khz now. Is this enough?

    Is Output3 simply Output 2 inverted? If not: How do they differ? Would it be possible to skip Output3 for the prototypes? (The uC I'm using has precisely 6 i/o-Pins. However to use the 6th pin I have to pratically give up the possibility to reprogram it for the future)
    Here is the data sheet for the IR sensor. Looks like you should be plenty close enough.
    http://www.ladyada.net/media/sensors/PNA4602.pdf

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by after.burner View Post
    For Output 1: How precise does the signal have to match 38khz? Edit: Found a way to be more precise ... so I'm between 37.88khz and 38.17khz now. Is this enough?

    Is Output3 simply Output 2 inverted? If not: How do they differ? Would it be possible to skip Output3 for the prototypes? (The uC I'm using has precisely 6 i/o-Pins. However to use the 6th pin I have to pratically give up the possibility to reprogram it for the future)
    Yes output 3 is the same as 2 inverted. You could do a simple inverter circuit to free up the pin. Of course, you could also use a DIP socket so you can reprogram anytime you want

    -Alex
    If it is broken, fix it. if it isn't broken, I'll soon fix that.

    [url]videoaerialsystems.com[/url] - Performance video piloting

  7. #47
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    Alex,
    This sounds awsome. If you had three teams. Each team would have it's own color, blue LED team, green LED team, and white LED team. Furthmore all the planes would have Red LED's in them as well and everytime they took a hit their plane would chance colors from their team color to red LED's each time lasting longer and longer. Another idea would be to rig one of the $20 green lasers that radio shack sells to make it look like a sort of wing commander space aged battle in the sky's. And Alex your DIY stuff has brought FPV to anyone that wants it, not just those who can throw money at it.
    Respectfully posted,
    IC

  8. #48
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    Well, there must have been a bitch of a storm in Boulder, CO...my order for the Arduino still hasn't even shipped! After much Googling however, I found that my local MicroCenter carries them as well, so I picked up a sweet little Arduino Nano yesterday and started playing. The code part of this should be pretty easy. I am a complete electronics noob though, so the complex part for me is figuring out how to get everything wired up! I already have the basics working though, so I am feeling pretty encouraged! Here is what I have so far:
    1. Stand-alone IR sensor wired to a red LED so you can see when it gets triggered.
    2. Arduino code is driving the IR LED at 38khz for 3 second bursts when I hit a button

    Sure enough, when I press my fire button, the IR LED pulses for 3 seconds (invisible to the naked eye of course, but you can actually see it on the video) and the IR sensor gets triggered! Here is a little vid:


    I think the rest should be pretty simple now that I got this working.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeloncik View Post
    Well, there must have been a bitch of a storm in Boulder, CO...my order for the Arduino still hasn't even shipped! After much Googling however, I found that my local MicroCenter carries them as well, so I picked up a sweet little Arduino Nano yesterday and started playing. The code part of this should be pretty easy. I am a complete electronics noob though, so the complex part for me is figuring out how to get everything wired up! I already have the basics working though, so I am feeling pretty encouraged! Here is what I have so far:
    1. Stand-alone IR sensor wired to a red LED so you can see when it gets triggered.
    2. Arduino code is driving the IR LED at 38khz for 3 second bursts when I hit a button
    Very cool, a lot of progress in a short time! How do you do the 38khz output? Is this a loop in your code or does it work in "background" (like PWM generation AKA analogWrite on Arduino)?

  10. #50
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    Jbeloncik will you share the code ane your parts list when you finish with developement...
    What is the range of such a system?

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