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Thread: Dragon link blink......and blinks......and blinks

  1. #1

    Dragon link blink......and blinks......and blinks

    DJI Flamewheel airframe (Hex)
    Dragon link v2.
    Naza 32 FC (dont know what version)

    Dont know what version of the Dragon klink software in on either RX or the TX. That will be next on my list (where can I find a TTL?).

    This rig was given to me by a dear friend who could not figure it out and though I might be able to. I've tried and tried. Tabled it. And am back to it.
    Blinking lights, that's what I got. That's all I got. (see the vid)

    The DX18 has had a power supply hack (who ever put this together knows what they are doing) but that makes me wonder how the bind process happens when compared to the process without the power hack, the whole hold the momentary bind button power on thing.........
    So do you hold the bind momentary, plug in the 1/8" trainer port, then switch on the DX18?
    do you hold the bind momentary, Turn on the DX18, then plug in the 1/8 trainer port?
    The DX18 seems to get power when the 1/8" trainer plug is plugged in.

    Here is a video I just took with lights a blinking, let me know if there is a specific sequence you would like to see me get on video.

  2. #2
    More info,
    I get the same light pattern with or with out the jumper.

  3. #3
    Can anyone point me in any kind of direction?
    The D.L. site does not explain the light pattern I am seeing.
    D.L. has not responded to my E-mails.


  4. #4
    Still no reply to the letter to Dragon Link I put in the mail . . . .. . .

  5. #5
    |So I've noticed some interesting things.
    This is my format

    DLrx, switched on - DLrx, solid red light.
    DX18, power switched on - DLrx, solid blue light comes on (-red has remained on) & DLtx fast red flash.
    Trainer port, plugged in - DLtx, no change & DLrx, no change.
    Trainer port, unplugged - DLtx ,no change & DLrx, no change.
    DX18, switched off - DLtx, red light goes off & DLrx, blue light goes out.
    Trainer port plugged in - DLtx, solid green light & DX18, comes on (although switch is off) & DLrx, solid blue light comes back on.
    DX18, switched on - DLtx, flashes red & DLrx, no change
    Trainer port, unplugged - DLrx, solid blue goes out
    Trainer port, plugged in - DLtx, flashing red & DLrx solid blue comes back on
    DX18, switched on - DLtx, solid green light * DLrx solid blue

    The fine folks at DragonLink still have made no contact or acknowledgement of the letter I sent requesting help. SENT NOVEMBER 5. ITS THE 19TH !!!!!

  6. #6
    so far the Dragon link setup is a Long range paper weight.
    I can set it on a stack of papers, drive to Buffalo NY from Delaware come back 6 days later and ITS STILL WORKING!!!!!!! CAN YOU BELIEVE IT ?!?!?

  7. #7
    Navigator lucky72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Holly Hill SC
    Quote Originally Posted by Flite Risk View Post
    so far the Dragon link setup is a Long range paper weight.
    I can set it on a stack of papers, drive to Buffalo NY from Delaware come back 6 days later and ITS STILL WORKING!!!!!!! CAN YOU BELIEVE IT ?!?!?
    I have owned and flown DL over 6 years on currently 6 aircraft with zero drama. There is a bit of a learning curve with binding and installation etc. But it all can be worked out. I did find this in my PDF files that describes what the flashing LED sequence are and the step by steps instructions. Follow them verbatim step by step, especially change id. DX PPM has been an issue in the past but Im not familiar with the 18. Timing of holding the button and watching the LED is critical but with a few try you should have it up and running unless there is a PPM issue. Also make sure the transmitter is set as a slave, this turns off the 2.4 internal transmitter and insures the PPM is sent to the DL Tx which is now the master...I hope this helps.


    1. SOLID BLUE LED's = Good telemetry signal being received by the Transmitter from the receiver. Will flash GREEN with each telemetry packet lost.
    2. SOLID GREEN LED's = Transmitter operating normally with valid PPM input, but NO telemetry being received. ( normal indication if receiver is turned OFF )
    3. SOLID RED LED's = No PPM signal being received by the Dragon Link Transmitter. Check RC transmitter settings, trainer port / DSC settings, and connections to RC transmitter.
    4. WHITE FLASHING LED's = Hardware error codes, contact us through email support for assistance.
    5. FLASHING YELLOW LED's = User configurable Alarms, Combined with tone, to alert you if certain parameters are exceeded. Battery Alarm, RSSI Alarm, etc. etc.

    TRANSMITTER MODES: These modes can quickly be accessed at the filed by Holding down the BIND button upon power up.

    STEP 1 - Mount Dragon Link Transmitter to your RC transmitter: We suggest using Velcro to attach your Dragon Link transmitter directly to the back of your RC transmitter. This results in the most compact, convenient, and lightest installation possible. Do not worry about keeping the Dragon Link TX antenna vertical while you fly, this would only become a factor in very long range flying, 20 Kilometers or more. For those that want a mounting bracket, we sell an optional mounting bracket that screws to the thin metal handle that many RC transmitter have.
    STEP 2 - Connect Dragon Link Transmitter INPUT 1 to your RC Transmitters PPM output ( DSC Port, Trainer Port, or RF Module Pins ) with Included Cable: When you purchase Dragon Link, you will have the option to choose what kind of connection cable you want. Simply plug the cable into INPUT 1 on your Dragon Link Transmitter and do the following for each different type of RC transmitter:
    Connect Dragon Link to your RC transmitter, and assure that you have a GREEN LED's on the Dragon Link transmitter. The GREEN LED's indicates that you have both power and valid PPM signal from your RC transmitter, and is required before proceeding to the next step. The Dragon Link will not bind or work until the Transmitter LED's turns GREEN when you turn the system on. RED LED's indicate there is power, but no PPM signal. If you have a RED LED, make sure your Trainer or DSC Port is activated in your RC transmitters computer menu.
    STEP 2 - CHANGE ID ON TRANSMITTER: Hold down the BIND button on the Dragon Link Transmitter and power the Dragon Link Transmitter on. Continue to hold down button for approximately 5 seconds while the LED's on the transmitter cycles through its different colors. When the LED's on the transmitter TURNS RED, Release the button, the LED's will continue to flash RED, and you will hear 4 beeps, the ID is now changed. Power off transmitter.
    STEP 3 - BIND RECEIVER TO THE TRANSMITTER: Hold down the BIND button on the Transmitter, and power the Transmitter on. Continue to hold down the button for approximately 3 Seconds until LED's turns BLUE, then release the button. The LED's will flash BLUE, and you will hear two repeating beeps, this indicates you are in binding mode. Power on the recever, the GREEN and BLUE LED will flash indicating a successful bind. Power off both Transmitter and Receiver, then power them on again. You should see a SOLID BLUE LED on the receiver, this indicates a valid, steady RC link is being received by the receiver. You should now see SOLID BLUE LED's on the transmitter, the SOLID BLUE LED's on the transmitter indicate that a bidirectional telemetry link is being received from the receiver.
    STEP 4 - SET FAILSAFES: Both the Transmitter and Receiver must be powered normally with a VALID LINK ( SOLID BLUE LED on the receiver ) Set the controls where you want them to be in a failsafe ( lost signal ) condition, and push the BIND button on the Transmitter for one second, the LED's on the transmitter will turn GREENISH BLUE, and you will hear a tone from the transmitter, which indicates failsafe has been set.
    STEP 5 - RANGE TEST: Set the Dragon Link Transmitter into Micro Power Range Test mode: Hold down the BIND button and power on the transmitter. In approximately 3 seconds the LED's will turn GREEN, release the bind button when the LED's turn GREEN. The LED's will now flash GREEN, and you will hear a slow single beep, this indicates Micro Power Range Test mode. Set the Transmitter on a table, antenna vertical, and walk away with your plane or copter held at a normal level with its antenna also vertical. You should see RED, GREEN, and BLUE LED's illuminated on the receiver. Walk away until the system starts to go into constant failsafe's. Failsafe is indicated by the BLUE LED on the RECEIVER turning off. Do NOT stop on the first failsafe, but walk away until the receiver is in failsafe 50 % of time ( BLUE LED on the receiver flashing on and off about 1/2 of the time. ) You should get at least 10 meters, or 30 feet distances away from the transmitter before this happens. If the system goes into constant failsafe at distances significantlyless than 30 feet, DO NOT FLY until you have corrected the problem and get a good range test. Getting a Micro Power Range test of up to 60 feet is OK, but if you get a test further than 60 feet, this indicates the transmitter is in normal power mode, and do not have a valid range test, assure transmitter is in micro power mode and start over. NOTE: On small copters or planes that will not be flown more than 5 Kilometers distance, you can accept a micropower range test of 15 feet.
    STEP 6 - FLYING: You will now have basic, very reliable, and very long range RC control and can fly FPV further and safer than you ever have before. Be aware that long range RC control is only a small part of what the Dragon Link advanced system will do. We strongly encourage you to connect the transmitter to your computer via any standard Micro USB cable, and bind it to your smartphone or tablet, and set up alarms, see a map of where your plane is, see how fast it is going, etc etc. to take full advantage of what this system will do. Complete instructions will continually added below as we develop new features and capabilities.
    Last edited by lucky72; 25th November 2018 at 06:34 PM.

  8. #8
    Lucky, Thank you.

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