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Thread: Ritewing Hardcore 44 build videos

  1. #21
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    here- subbed.

  2. #22
    Co-Pilot Håvard Støre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gobigdale View Post
    here- subbed.
    Teaser:-)
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  3. #23
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    So if i read Chris's instructions correct i should place all of the FG spars on either the top or bottom first then make sure the wing is straight and true. Then soak in a heavy coat of CA apply activator let the wing dry sand then go over each spar with goop.

  4. #24
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maktek View Post
    So if i read Chris's instructions correct i should place all of the FG spars on either the top or bottom first then make sure the wing is straight and true. Then soak in a heavy coat of CA apply activator let the wing dry sand then go over each spar with goop.
    Yup. But do it all in the wing beds. As long as you're in the wing beds and weighting it down correctly to dry, it has no choice but to dry perfectly true, whether you're using concrete, peanut butter, CA or anything else. Where you stand the biggest chance of getting it out of alignment is during laminating. Laminate shrinks as it heats, so you can end up with a nice bow in the wing in both the front to back or wing tip to wing tip axis if you're not careful with what you're doing. Personally, I do each side in 3 pieces to combat this, and I check along the way to be sure nothing is developing that might cause me issues down the road. I'm sure other people have their own techniques, but that works for me. I've done full lam jobs (I sheet each side) before and usually had to work a bow out of one side by countering it with the other side - that's no fun and guaranteed to leave a small twist somewhere that is going to affect your flying. If you spend a little time on the edges where it overlaps, you can get it so you can't find the seam when you're done. Good luck.

  5. #25
    Instructor Pilot
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    They should be in the top and bottom before you glue. Make sure the all fit, make sure all is strait before you glue. Then glue top and let cure. Then inspect as you flip to other wing bed, then if strait then glue bottom. If not then straiten, then glue and activate.

    Quote Originally Posted by maktek View Post
    So if i read Chris's instructions correct i should place all of the FG spars on either the top or bottom first then make sure the wing is straight and true. Then soak in a heavy coat of CA apply activator let the wing dry sand then go over each spar with goop.

  6. #26
    Co-Pilot Håvard Støre's Avatar
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    How much throw do you recommend for elevator and aileron? Should the up and down movements be equal?

  7. #27
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    I test fitted all of the spars last night. Thanks Chris for the quick answer about center cross spar needed to be chopped in half for both sides. Everything looks good. Just have to wait for CA from Amazon. I don't usually use CA for anything.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss View Post
    Yup. But do it all in the wing beds. As long as you're in the wing beds and weighting it down correctly to dry, it has no choice but to dry perfectly true, whether you're using concrete, peanut butter, CA or anything else. Where you stand the biggest chance of getting it out of alignment is during laminating. Laminate shrinks as it heats, so you can end up with a nice bow in the wing in both the front to back or wing tip to wing tip axis if you're not careful with what you're doing. Personally, I do each side in 3 pieces to combat this, and I check along the way to be sure nothing is developing that might cause me issues down the road. I'm sure other people have their own techniques, but that works for me. I've done full lam jobs (I sheet each side) before and usually had to work a bow out of one side by countering it with the other side - that's no fun and guaranteed to leave a small twist somewhere that is going to affect your flying. If you spend a little time on the edges where it overlaps, you can get it so you can't find the seam when you're done. Good luck.
    Thanks I will be sure to keep an eye on this when laminating.

  9. #29
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    "CA on the cut bead foam in spar slots works awesome it soaks into the bead and sticks very well to FG"

    Chris, can you rephrase this statement? I have no idea what you are trying to say here. Thanks.



  10. #30
    Instructor Pilot
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    CA. AKA super glue used on the Hotwire cut bead foam works very very well to put in the fiber glass rods. The router slices the bead open and the glue wicks into the bead for a very good bond between the rod and the bead foam cnc cut spar slits

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

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