Page 2 of 17 FirstFirst 123412 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 169

Thread: Ritewing Hardcore 44 build videos

  1. #11
    Nice. Why not use laminate for the hinges? Scotch tape will yellow in sunlight...

  2. #12
    Co-Pilot Håvard Støre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Norway, West coast
    Posts
    1,737
    Quote Originally Posted by billyd View Post
    Nice. Why not use laminate for the hinges? Scotch tape will yellow in sunlight...
    When I said Scotch tape, I really meant packing tape. If yellowing is a concern (I couldn't care less, lol) you can buy UV resistant packing tape. Dont remember the brand. (3m or scotch)

    The point of Z-hinging with tape is superior precision and stability in the finished hinge. The standard laminate hinge can in theory slip up or down a little as it is not really locked. I say in theory because laminate hinges are usually quite good. When it comes to precision between the top surface of the wing in relation to the top surface of the elevon, the laminate hinge is a bit hard to get right. Especially if the trailing edge of the wing is uneven or slightly warped like on a typical EPP wing.

    This is Chris explaining:

  3. #13
    Instructor Pilot
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    AZ USA
    Posts
    3,309
    Yes it will build tail heavy if you go heavy motor and light flight cam. If you go with a flight cam only then go with the 2217 2300 and its perfect for a 4s 3300. If you go with a mobius or run cam its still prety close but mite have to do a little added weight or motor location manipulation. If you go 2814 1700 to 2100 and a flight cam only you can go 4s 4500 nanotec. We also use 225 mg hitec servos. This helps, smaller 85 size is too small for robustness and travel needed. The HS 85 will work but I would rather go with a more robust servo since you need the weight.

    If you go with a sessions and flight cam you can go 3300 4s. Just Hit CG it will fly no matter what.
    Quote Originally Posted by Håvard Støre View Post
    I haven't mentioned this in the videos yet, but this is a plane that builds tail heavy unless you are careful. Place all gear as far towards the nose as possible, and choose heavyish servos. My Hitec82s will help some, I will also utilize the battery compartment for some of the electronics. Only use a single layer of .3 or .5 lam as any extra layer will make the plane more tail heavy. A Runcam 2 also helps.

  4. #14
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by billyd View Post
    Nice. Why not use laminate for the hinges? Scotch tape will yellow in sunlight...
    I use the z hinge as well with storage tape (uv resistant) on the inner and outer portions of the control surface to get it nice and tight, but then do the actual hinge with laminate. The z hinge isn't a permanent "hinge", it's just a method to get it held up super tight to the trailing edge of the wing while you get your actual hinge in place. The hinge itself can be done with tape or laminate.

  5. #15
    Navigator
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Home of 2010 Olympics
    Posts
    4
    Looking good, can't wait to start on mine once I clean up enough bench space ;-)

  6. #16
    Instructor Pilot
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    AZ USA
    Posts
    3,309
    Hey guys, I keep seeing you guys miss a very important aspect of this build.
    We use thick CA to fit all FG spars in place, this keeps it very light.

    Process as follows

    After wing beds are split and glued together.

    Cut motor slot and pre fit plate
    Cut in all shelf recesses for lids and bays, much easier done before gluing wings together

    Glue wings together, I use 3 m 90 to glue roots, its perfect for this,, set in beds

    Pre fit all FG rods in place top an bottom, use small razor to deepen every channel if needed.
    Do not glue in place yet.

    Since this is a race wing it is imperative that this wing is super true so we do not glue any rods in until we look down its TE and LE and make sure its strait.
    We want to lock it in fast so it is true.

    If its not true it will not fly to its fullest capability!!!

    With the rods in this allows you to do this and make any final adjustments to LE. This is very critical to its handling. I myself do not glue these in one by one at a time, I do not use goop or gorilla to do the lock in.

    Once LE looks strait set gently in wing beds to be careful to keep strait.

    Then weight the wing on its TE and do not weight them ahead of high point of airfoil, NO WEIGHT CLOSE TO LE, this will bow the LE.

    Now lock the FG rods in with Thick CA, be generous, then lock with activator . CA on the cut bead foam in spar slots works awesome it soaks into the bead and sticks very well to FG.

    Then after a few hrs flip and do other side, prior to lock in make sure all is strait prior to lock in, LE being critical to performance, so get it true before glue!!!

    After all of this is done then sand entire wing till smooth and fuzzy, this removes the CA residual.
    Now for a very important part, take the goop and run its nozzle directly onto all spar channels to fill them with a micro bead down into the FG rod spar slots.
    This locks them in with a nice surface layer of goop, wipe in any goop excess .
    Let dry!

    Then heavy coat 3 m 90 on entire wing let dry for one day to gass off, this make a medium for the paint to stick to, it also keeps so much paint from soaking in the wings and gives nice base for color.
    It also allows the lam to stick to the foam super well, it warms up and sticks the paint the lam and the foam all together extremely well.
    Now glue in motor plate before lam.

    Now we have goop over the spars and in the crevices, 3 m 90 and paint to stick it down like crazy and allows you to re stick lam later with the heat of the iron if you have areas in need of repair.

    Now here is the key point of the process ,, in the area where you put the goop it sticks to the lam extremely well to tie together the spars matix and adds all the surface strength added by the lam.

    I know everyone is stuck in their ways of building its hard to get people to try new things, but this is new and works very very well. It ensures a super strait extremely true, light, and durable wing that will rip and fly like rails.
    It also builds in a fraction of the time that you are showing in this build. Please Keep these points in consideration. Alot of efforts went into this method to go to the next level.
    Last edited by ritewing; 15th February 2017 at 02:45 PM.

  7. #17
    Co-Pilot Håvard Støre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Norway, West coast
    Posts
    1,737
    Thanks for all the pointers and advice Chris. I will include these instructions in the beginning of my 4th video.

  8. #18
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    3,378
    That's for the tips Chris - I'm sure this will help a lot of guys with their builds. I have a question about the CA - what happens after a crash or 8? CA by nature is rock hard, incredibly brittle and in no way flexible once cured, but wings are. If you CA something, let it dry, then pick it up and bend it, it crunches and cracks and breaks off of whatever you glued it to. The I beam configuration gets all its strength from the relationship of the 2 spars and the fact that they can't move in relation to one another. Are you worried that after a couple hard impacts that the CA will be all cracked up and the spars will be free in those areas? They definitely won't come out due to the over layer of goop and the laminate on top of that, but in the wing they won't be connected to the foam anymore, which is what gives them their strength to begin with. Maybe I'm missing something, but if that is the case, wouldn't it be better to sacrifice a couple grams and hours to dry to guarantee that didn't happen down the road? I'm not guaranteeing that it will - that's just the way it seems based on how I've seen ca act once dry. Goop is rubber for life and is never coming off, cracking or coming loose. I'm not saying that CA won't work - you for sure have tons more experience than I do with building, so don't take it that way please - just curious what your thoughts are around how brittle CA is. Thanks man.

  9. #19
    Instructor Pilot
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    AZ USA
    Posts
    3,309
    CA does a Great bond to EPP if the bead is cut like it is. Get good CA and dont be sparse with it.
    It sticks very well to cut foam.
    The goop topper and the lam locking down to the foam adjacent to the spars gives it the other end of the spectrum that your worried about.

    Its the entire system, not just the strip FG rod, think bigger guys!!!

    They have been plowed into gates at races only to be tossed back up immediately.

    This method locks you in strait in very fast order. Fiddling with a fg spars one at a time gooping or welders will ensure you will be wresting with this build the entire time to keep it strait. If its not true you know why .
    The key to he planes handling is the keeping it absolutely true.

    Again, you are thinking old school overbuild techniques.

  10. #20
    Co-Pilot
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    1,897
    I've used ca glue to put in fg spars since I started and have never had them come loose. I use to cover over with hot glue but now just use goop. Works great, is pretty much permanent, and doesn't come loose after many crashes. Usually, you'll have other things breaking well before your spars.

Similar Threads

  1. Ritewing Videos Thread
    By ritewing in forum RITEWING RC
    Replies: 139
    Last Post: 23rd September 2018, 03:31 PM
  2. Ritewing Hardcore 44 - Zephyr 1.5
    By Hoss in forum PILOT'S LAB
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 17th August 2018, 02:10 PM
  3. Ritewing Hardcore 44 - Zephyr 1.5
    By Hoss in forum FIXED WING
    Replies: 412
    Last Post: 3rd November 2017, 12:44 PM
  4. Replies: 11
    Last Post: 4th January 2017, 06:09 AM
  5. Ritewing Z3 build videos
    By Håvard Støre in forum RITEWING RC
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11th November 2015, 02:20 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •