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  1. #1
    Forum Member
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    Sep 2014

    Ritewing Mini Drak Build and Info

    Oh yes, it is almost time. The Ritewing Mini Drak has completed the molding phase and is in the shipping phase from Germany – that means that delivery of pre-orders is not far off. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a sample run of the mold and will be doing a build thread along the way. The build is similar to the Big Drak, with a modification or two to the technique to save time. If you haven’t yet seen a video of the mini in the air, I’ll post up a video of Chris flying the proto below, as well as a first impression video Chris did after getting the samples. If you haven’t yet picked one up, I’d suggest you get on it before they’re gone. These aren’t hot cut, so once the well is dry – it’s dry.

    Pricing is as follows:
    Mini drak kit only pre sale 175.00 .
    Mini Drak cf rod horns 30.00
    Mini Drak mg servos 65.00
    Mini Drak motor esc combo 125.00
    Lam 25.00.
    Nose cone 30.00

    Here’s a team legit video featuring Chris with the prototype mini. The molded version is slicker and probably lighter, so if it looks this good then… I’m excited

    Here is Chris’s first impression video after getting the mold samples:

    Here is me after opening the box and seeing the fuse for the first time

    I then laid it out, admired it, then pooped my pants.

    Aaaaaand the build:

    If you’re building one yourself and using this as a guide, be sure to have:
    Snap razor with several fresh blades
    Goop adhesive
    Hot glue
    Sand paper
    Dremel, hacksaw or other cutting tool
    Pliers / cutters
    Plasti Dip
    Laminate (if laminating or attaching elevons with laminate)
    Moving and Storage tape (for Z-hinging and attaching elevons if you prefer over laminate)
    Weights (batteries work fine – 400 + g)

    I started off by removing all the fill port nubs with a brand new, high quality snap razor

    I then removed the spars from the spar sleeves, placed the spar sleeves in the spar slots, marked out my cuts and cut them to size with a dremel and metal disk cutter

    I then sanded down all the pieces and washed them off to get rid of all the dust. I actually used a damp paper towel so that I didn’t get any water inside – as I was installing right then and didn’t want water spilling out into my glue

    I then prepped the spar slots by sanding them and roughing them up inside. You really just want to break the mold skin, as things have a tough time sticking to it

    I then used some E6000 (very similar to goop, but slightly thinner to spread better (but goop works fine) and a hot glue gun to install the sleeves. They fit perfectly in the slot, so it’s very easy to get these done correctly. What I did was use the goop in the middle and hot glue at both ends. This allowed me to drop in the spar sleeve, press hard down all over to have it spread the glue, and release shortly after with the hot glue holding it in place while the goop cured. They are super strong at the end of this, and they will be getting another layer of goop over top still when doing the spar caps – so this is a solid method and very permanent.

    After a few hours they were cured enough to fit everything together and check out what this beauty really looks like

    Here’s the spars just installed

    Here’s the beast all together

    Next I did the thin glass spars on the tops of the wings. I cut the spars to fit, filled the slots with goop, placed the spars in and twisted to cover the entire spar with goop. I then went along and pressed it in to ensure it was seated at the bottom of the channel, then went over it with my finger to remove any excess glue and smooth it all out. Chris is recommending actually making a slice in the channel and embedding the spar, to save time. I will be doing this on the fuselage, but I like the wing spars to be on the surface. I beam spars are stronger the further apart they are, but honestly I just like the way it looks

    I weighted them down for the night to cure with the wings straight

    I then messed around and started thinking about what I’m going to do for a video system config. It would be super slick to cut a perfect port out for the runcam that allows it to slide in from the back, with just the lens showing up front and no obstructions to the nose… We’ll see what happens…

    Lots more to come as it happens. Next up is spar caps, then bottom wing glass spars, then motor mount, then fuse spars, then painting
    Last edited by Hoss; 24th January 2017 at 03:33 PM.

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