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Thread: Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info

  1. #1
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info

    I have been bugging Chris for around two years to bring back his IYF44 wing. That was one of my favorite wings back in 2007 and I ended up giving it to someone and regretted it. Finally got my hands on his latest creation a couple weeks ago and I have to say I am blown away with the Hardcore44. The foam cuts are perfect. The equipment bays and spar slots are already there. A very solid two piece motor mount with a lower thrust line is included. Additional verticals are now included. With new build techniques and better motors this thing is going to be the new standard in hotwire cut EPP wings.

    My equipment for this build is as follows:

    Motor & ESC: Cobra 2217 2300kv / 40 amp Cobra ESC (I am waiting on Cobra's new wing ESC's to arrive. BLHeli is on them for smoother throttle response)
    Prop: 6x4.5
    Servos: HS82 MG (You could do something smaller, however I am looking to push this thing to 100MPH)
    Battery: 4S 2200 to 3600 (I am using 2x 1050's)
    FPV: Lumineer flight cam, RMRC Cricket Pro vTx, Maytec PDB/OSD combo (may switch that out with a CorePro soon) Runcam2 HD camera. IBCrazy RaceSpec antenna.
    Receiver: FrSky x4r

    HC 44 CG: 7.75 inches from the nose

    CG locations for HC and spec wings.
    HC 48 Vollocity 8 1/4
    HC 44 7 3/4
    HC 38 7.5
    HC 24 4 3/4
    Spec 37" 6 3/4


    Target AUW: 34oz to 40oz (Over 40oz and you need to put it on Weight Watchers)

    $130 for the kit (HOLY COW this is a sweet deal, especially considering all of the routered bays and spar slots)
    Link to Purchase: http://ritewingrc.com/?product=hardcore-44
    Last edited by ritewing; 20th July 2017 at 11:19 AM.

  2. #2
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info



    Start off my gluing together you wing beds on a flat surface. You will want to build your wing in the beds. Do not throw them away!


    Next step is to sand your wing cores smooth with a hand sander and some 80 to 120 grit sand paper. You want the EPP to feel fuzzy. This is very important to make sure your laminate adheres well. Since I forgot to take any pictures with the Hardcore44 of this process the photos are from another project.






    Here you can see that I have drawn a line where I need to make the cut for the motor mount. A right angle tool really helps with this. Take care in making sure the motor mount is installed straight. I used a little saw knife which made the perfect slit. Snap razor should work here too.


    Test fit of the motor mount. DO NOT GLUE it in yet, just test fit your cut. Remember to cut your motor mount in BEFORE you glue your wing together.



    Once you have your motor mount cut in, it is time to glue the wings together. I used Welders Adhesive to do almost my entire build. It is a contact adhesive and works great on EPP.


    Rub the halves together with the adhesive and set aside for about 15 min to let the glue setup.


    After 15 min lightly join the wing halves together starting with the nose first. Make sure everything lines up before firmly pressing together.


    Last edited by gobigdale; 24th December 2016 at 04:58 PM.

  3. #3
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info

    With the wing halves glued together, place into the wing beds. While there start preparing the spar slots my running a snap razor through the spar slots


    Next measure each spar slot and cut your spars to fit. Then fill in the the slot with Welders Adhesive. This is where Chris and I did things a little bit differently. He recommends that you lock in the spar with CA and kicker while in the wing beds. I used only Welders and let mt spars setup over night while being weighted down in the wing beds.

    When weighting down, use batteries or weights. You want to place the weights on and behind the spar running down wing. You want your weight to hold down the center to trailing edge and not on the leading edge. Weighting down the leading edge could warp/bow the wing.


    I only did the top side, and weighted it down over night to give the glue time to cure. Notice that I have not removed the center plugs yet.




    After the top dries, do the same thing to the bottom. Let the bottom spars cure for severe hours before proceeding.

    In this photo you can see that I am making a connector hole from the equipment bay to the servo bay for my servo wires.




    Last edited by gobigdale; 24th December 2016 at 05:54 PM.

  4. #4
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info

    Here my youngest boy is giving me a hand by filling in the spar slots with welders adhesive after they have dried. We used a generous amount so that we could smooth it out with a gloved finger so that the laminate will have plenty of gripping power.


    Now it is time to glue in the motor mount. Again I used Welders.



    Insert the motor mount and weigh down in the wing beds. Let this sit for at least 6 hours. We want the glue to have enough time to setup.


    Now it is time to work on the coroplast floor. Notice that I have already trimmed out the indent with an exacto knife where Chris has already pre cut. This is a very nice feature. Trim out just enough for the coro to sit flat. Next I installed some of my left over fiber spars in the coro channels of the battery bay floor. Cut notches in the foam so that you can lock in the spars with welders.


    Now you want to glue the bay down from both sides.
    Last edited by gobigdale; 24th December 2016 at 06:14 PM.

  5. #5
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info



    Time to setup the battery hatch cover. Using a leftover piece of spar, slide it into the 4th flute. I made this spar long enough to touch the outside wing spars. Cut out a single flute so that your lid will open.


    Glue your bay door down. I put Welders in the spar slots as well as welders along the front of the bay shelf. In the corners of the bay lid I used Hot Glue because it sets up quicker which helps keep them down while the Welders cures. The reason for so much welders is because it creates a firm but flex joint. when this set up I used some 3M90 and a strip of lam across the front of the bay for extra security.

    I also have cut in the camera bay of my FPV cam. I dropped it right in there so that I could have a flush mount.


    Now is was time to fill up the equipment bay with my chosen equipment.


    I tried something new here. Instead of painting my EPP, I gave it a good two coats of 3M77 and let it dry. Then I laminated the top and bottom of the wing using the wing beds. This is important because you may twist or warp your wing if you don't use the wing beds or you laminate too fast. It takes me about 15-20 min to laminate 1/2 of the wing. I use multiple pieces of lam which helps keep the unwanted twist and warm out of the wing.

    Don't rush this step. Get a really smooth lamination job so that you can paint the lam later. Laminate both sides of plane a quarter section at a time. I used 5mil lamination film. This was not the same lam sent in the kit BTW.


    In the kit you will find to pieces of 6mm coroplast. Glue them together with welders to make the center keel of the plane. This will help protect the nose and bottom of the plane.




    Now it is time to make your elevons. Hold them up to the plane a get a rough idea of the length you need and trim as necessary. You want the thicker end towards the tips of the wing. Measure out 8 inches from the end of the elevon and make a mark. now on the other end measure 1" from the front. Draw a straight line from mark to mark and trim away the unwanted piece of elevon.
    Last edited by gobigdale; 24th December 2016 at 07:12 PM.

  6. #6
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info

    Time for some paint on the bottom of the wing. I believe I actually started with the top color first but do not have a photo of that. Here you can see how well the lam is taking the Rustolem 2x paint. Takes a whole lot less paint this way. Several lite coats works best. Make sure to wipe down your laminate before painting with some alcohol. This will help the paint stick and take off any fingerprints. It usually take me 3 or so light coats to get what I want. I let the plane cure overnight before laminating again.


    Next step is to laminate the plane again. I know, what a pain in the ass.


    Here is a nice close up shot of how this turned out. Probably the smoothes EPP wing I have ever done.


    The bottom turned out pretty nice too. Not quite as perfect as the top. You can also see that I use lamination film to secure my elevons to the wing. Chris uses and recommends Heavy Duty Packaging tape and Z hinges. I have tried doing this multiple times and have had mixed results.


    I took this chance to attach my center skid to the bottom. Using hot glue I attached it to the lam. I poked holes in lam and coro so the glue would hold. I then went around the outside edges with Welders for additional strength and hold. Hot glue could pop loose in the cold weather on a hard landing.
    Last edited by gobigdale; 24th December 2016 at 07:23 PM.

  7. #7
    Pilot gobigdale's Avatar
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    Ritewing Hardcore44 Racewing Build & Info















    Last edited by gobigdale; 23rd December 2016 at 04:48 PM.

  8. #8
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Subbed. Let me know what you think about that ESC - I was looking at those today. Get some pics up!!!

  9. #9
    Ah brilliant will be keeping an eye on this

  10. #10
    Test pilot addict airtruksrus's Avatar
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    Another great build Dale, keep them coming.
    KF7TSE

    youtube.com/channel/UCzoOpmJK8_WOlBl65sZAfGw
    vimeo.com/airtruksrus/videos

    Airtruksrus Cockpit Ground Station Systems.
    Open for business
    Always under revision to make it better.

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