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Thread: Basher RockSta 1/24 Mini Rock Crawler FPV

  1. #11

    manual

    Here a scan of the manual.

    Basher Manual.pdf.pdf

  2. #12
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Thanx bro!
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  3. #13
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Got my crawler kit at the door, and when started to check them brushless motors for fit my smile disappeared...
    Of course they don't fit, that's no problem, but 9T pinions I got don't fit either. There's a slot for 8T pinion to just just about to fit, also 9T's 0.4 pitch is too small, doesn't interlock with the gears. 8T pinions at HK is for 2mm shaft and my motors have 1.5mm shaft. There's one heli pinion that is for 1mm shaft but it is on backorder, as well as brushed motors for that crawler if I want to go for brushed setup.
    I'm wiling to do the brushless mods because I have them motors and ESCs, but how to fit on 1.5 mm shaft 2mm pinion without a lathe? Any ideas? I'll check if I can solder on that motor shaft, then I can wrap 0.25mm wire around it and solder, order 8T pinions and press them on. Otherwise I'll have to wait til spare parts appears at HK or brushed motors are back in stock. Either way I won't be driving it any time shortly, but I can start doing body mods.

    Flattened edges for 130 brushed motor will house only 12-13mm diameter motor, a bigger one won't fit coz of shock's ball joint:



    9T pinion is too small pitch and touches the side of plastic:



    All gears are nylon, no metal anywhere...



    And here's the size beside 180mm quad, it is tiny, for now



    Oh, and to top up my disappointment- my pan/tilt system with cam is too big and too heavy...
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  4. #14
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    I wonder if you could find some nylon pinions that would fit?

    So the motor would fit theoretically if you could find the correct pinion?

    Is it (brushless motor) longer than stock? Like will it stick out of the housing?


    Check this out- Lots of pics of 8 tooth 1.5mm hole pinions. I'm sure you could find one that would work with that motor (if it fits) and that spur.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=1.5m...w=1280&bih=587

  5. #15
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Motors fit but will need some housing around them to replicate that shaved-sides diameter of 130 size brushed motor. They will stick out a bit, but there's no obstruction to chassis movement or anything, we're good there.
    As for pinions, I'm ordering some stuff constantly from HK so I'll just throw them in, and it is too late for 1.5mm pinions- I enlarged the shaft to 2mm. It is ordinary steel, not stainless, so I was able to wrap around 0.25mm copper wire and solder it to the shaft. When I get the pinions, I'll solder them after pressing on as well and I'll have a solid soldered to the shaft pinions. So, brushless setup it is
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  6. #16
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Here's them motors that became with 2mm shafts:





    Some spare parts appeared at HK yesterday, so ordered my 8T pinions for brushless motors, also ordered brushed motors with ESC in case I'll fail with my brushless setup. And I got 1/18 scale wheels to try. They're bigger in diameter and will give me a bit extra speed if I go for brushed setup, coz as far as know brushed setup is very very slow.

    Meanwhile, building a body from GF plate. My IRC 600mw Vtx will be at the very bottom and it needs more space so my body will be 16mm longer than original. Here's the set:



    Glueing process with some reinforcements:



    Painted, wheel rims as well. I'll be using red/brown primer as finished paint and will leave it matt as it is:

    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  7. #17
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    The frame is assembled. There are few reasons why I did a narrower mid section:
    1. Vtx fits just right without unnecessary space left.
    2. Articulation on original frame was limited by a few millimeters because bottom arms were ramming the body when axle tilted at max. Narrower body with spacers at ball joints gave me extra few mm of axle tilt.
    3. Cage-like structure is very strong so I could make it very lightweight. M2 threaded rods with nuts and spacers of course gives some extra weight, so after saving weight on frame I came out with roughly the same weight for bare frame, but much more solid and extra space to fit the gear. So far by the plan
    4. My ESCs will fit just right between main body and side braces, as I found out that there's no space for them anywhere on the axles.







    Suspension on this bubu is very stiff for its weight, too stiff even after I load dead weight on top, equivalent of my FPV gear and body (or protective cage, didn't decide yet). So when drawing my body plates I tampered a bit with suspensions geometry- I lowered the "Y" arm (dunno proper name for it) 2mm and there's no limiter where it stops when fully down. On original plastic body it was sitting on a box, now I have an extra 5mm of up and down axle travel. Shocks were squished as well- I increased their travel length by 7mm (max what plastic can do) and got them more by angle, as close to the frame as I could. All this softened my suspension a bit. When shocks are fully out, spring has extra ~8mm more length, so to soften to the final happiness I'll start cutting a ring or two on springs, but that will be at the very end when I'll have all the gear on and running.

    When shocks are fully out, some of them bend and stuck. I presume that's the reason why originally they're partially squished. As I'll have their full travel, to prevent bending I pressed inside small bronze washers. Now that long bolt lines up spot on



    While waiting for pinions, getting my brushless motors ready, I still want to go for brushless setup Cut GF plates to replicate cut-sided 130 brushed motor diameter, pressed on my motors, glued with CA+baking soda:



    Did I mention that this thing is tiny? Here's a pic of the frame (which is already a bit bigger) in my hand, and my hands are not big shovels

    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  8. #18
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Got the rest of the stuff in the post. Soldered 8T pinions on motor shafts, installed them- it works! Now I'll be the cool guy that runs brushless setup

    OK, back to work, still loads to do. I built another pan/tilt system, much lighter. Same 180deg 12gr pan servo, but for tilt I used 5gr servo instead of previous 9gr, less brackets and cam 2gr lighter than previous.



    Hex nuts were ramming hubs when tightening the wheels, so I cut the lip at bushing area. I thought that there will be bearings, but it's only 2 bushings pressed in.



    Decided that stock tyres are too stiff for me so cut the center line to separate threads, that softened them a bit:



    Now I have a rolling chassis. Tested only individual components, wiring needs to be finished. Dunno what is stock's articulation (didn't check before taking apart, was too excited to start modding...), but after tempering with geometry and mods I got ~60deg between two axles. And I'm happy so far with softer suspension- even without the rest of the weight (body/Rx/CP/cam) I can tilt one axle to max and the other stays flat until max articulation is reached



    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  9. #19
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    That's pretty cool. I don't think I want to do that much fab work, but I might still try to get a brushless setup running at some point.

    Just to let you know (maybe you already figured it out), that with any bushing in the shocks, you are limiting your down travel by the exactly the same size of the thickness of your bushings. That's why I didn't end up making a bushing, because it needs every mm of travel it can get. You could get by that by making longer shafts though obviously.

    I like the tire mod which I am sure works better, but softer tires will probably work better in some circumstances, sometimes the stock tire compound works fine though, just depends on what surface you are on.

    Edit-
    I also noticed that when tightening the wheels down that it would cause them to bind and drag.
    I solved that by just not tightening them to the point that it happened, but I was wondering if there was something I could do to fix it.

    So you just shaved down that extra part on the knuckle that sticks out past the bushing, and it allows you to tightening wheel nuts all the way down? Any other side effects? I wonder if that means the total track will be reduced by the same amount that is shaved off? Maybe thicker bushings or spacers could be used instead? Hmm....
    Last edited by BWX; 2nd February 2016 at 07:45 PM.

  10. #20
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWX View Post
    That's pretty cool. I don't think I want to do that much fab work, but I might still try to get a brushless setup running at some point.
    I like this kind of messing but I probably wouldn't do it again either...
    Quote Originally Posted by BWX View Post
    Just to let you know (maybe you already figured it out), that with any bushing in the shocks, you are limiting your down travel by the exactly the same size of the thickness of your bushings. That's why I didn't end up making a bushing, because it needs every mm of travel it can get. You could get by that by making longer shafts though obviously.
    When drawing new frame I increased shock travel by 7mm, bushing in there is 1mm thickness, so I still have 6mm extra travel
    Quote Originally Posted by BWX View Post
    So you just shaved down that extra part on the knuckle that sticks out past the bushing, and it allows you to tightening wheel nuts all the way down? Any other side effects? I wonder if that means the total track will be reduced by the same amount that is shaved off? Maybe thicker bushings or spacers could be used instead? Hmm....
    The problem there was not the bushings, but that plastic wheel hub that hugs the pin- the more you tighten your wheel the more it sinks in the pin and start touching knuckles. As you need the groves for the pin you can't cut anything there so I cut the knuckle, no side effects, all good.
    I'm not sure what do you mean by "the total track will be reduced by the same amount that is shaved off", is it you meant the distance between the wheels on an axle? Either way nothing changed there, pins in the shaft determines wheel's position, everything is there as it was
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

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