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Thread: World speed record with 250mm (or under) size quad

  1. #191
    Navigator 33db's Avatar
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    Let me know when you're done, I have a QAV250 here with stock everything and 6 Estes rockets strapped on and ready to fire with a flick of the switch. I'm guessing close to 200MPH.
    Locals Only Brah.

  2. #192
    Navigator saturnprime's Avatar
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    Ohh man...I want to see that!

  3. #193
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33db View Post
    Let me know when you're done, I have a QAV250 here with stock everything and 6 Estes rockets strapped on and ready to fire with a flick of the switch. I'm guessing close to 200MPH.
    No need to wait for me, go for the record! With this one I'm hoping for 200kmh, not mph, and if you succeed I'll have to think how to attach 10 ...no, make that 20 Estes rockets to my Q-Bot. It will still be considered as a quad, right?
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  4. #194
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Gentlemen, let me introduce you a super-duper-3D-CNC-molding system for my canopy. It is such a sophisticated piece of engineering that even Zee's fancy CNCs/3D printers has nothing on it!!!



    After cardboard templates I started sculpting around using 2mm balsa sheets:



    Marker line shows where my canopy's 2 halves will join together, but before I cut in half to remove them I glued around some bamboo skewer sticks. I did so because balsa curves a bit on the sides and if I cut it without supporting, that curve it will go flat:



    Last time I screwed up with the mold by filling it with expandable foam- it was soft'ish and sanding was a nightmare as the filler was cracking and sinking in the mold constantly. This time I filled the mold with plaster and put a solid handle in, what will make filling/sanding and GF forming much handier:


    P.S. please note that it still *is* a super high tech 3D molding! LOL

    Before pouring plaster into water I colored water with black ink (originally that builder's plaster is pink/beige) because automotive filler that use is beige color. After plaster solidified enough I peeled off balsa bits and cleaned rough edges. That's my minimum size of the mold as balsa was placed around tight in most places, so if I see grey color when sanding beige filler, I'll no not to go any further.
    A blob of plaster like this will take more than 48 hrs to dry completely, only then I can start messing with filler and sanding. Beaver tail shaped butt plug:

    Last edited by Roboforcer X2000; 20th October 2015 at 02:09 PM.
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  5. #195
    Navigator ABL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roboforcer X2000 View Post
    Beaver tail shaped butt plug
    Serious stuff! =)

  6. #196
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Moving on with the serious stuff. After 3 filler/sanding sessions I put some primer on, painted, and then few coats of beeswax. Ready for resin/GF:



    Used 7 layers of 80gr/sqm GF cloth and cheapest polyester resin, which is drying very fast so I had to hurry up. Looks tidy and neat enough for non vacuum molding

    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  7. #197
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    After sanding the canopy put some filler on and sanded again. This type of pattern is like work of contemporary art for me, I could just put some clear coat and put it on the shelve



    ...or make a fancy looking dildo for my wife...



    After a coat of primer I could cut it in half and take it out of the mold. It didn't want to get out easily so I had to scrape the plaster out from inside, the mold is gone.



    Started to cut the holes for USB, BT module pins and GPS logger buttons access, as well as for it's window and cam's window.





    When notching canopy for arms I miscalculated a bit and the cam now touches the front so I'll have to move the canopy a bit forward. I don't have enough PET for my vacuum molding box so I'll try to form my windows in the oven into negative molds. Having my offcuts from the windows I have to make another molds for window forming as my main mold was destroyed.

    A window for CP antenna is a different story... I really don't want to cut that window as it will definitely compromise the strength of the canopy. One crash tits down and that's it, canopy in shite... I know CPs still works when covered (with some loss) so I'll do a test first to find out whether I can get away with leaving antenna covered under fiberglass and resin dome. The distance of the field is approx 500m and radar gun will be standing in the middle, so all I need is up to 300m of clear'ish video feed.
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  8. #198
    This is looking quite stunning, I can't wait to see what it can do WoT. Have you increased your maximum speed goal? 300m shouldn't be a problem with a good directional antenna.

  9. #199
    Young Skywalker Rfriedman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roboforcer X2000 View Post
    After sanding the canopy put some filler on and sanded again. This type of pattern is like work of contemporary art for me, I could just put some clear coat and put it on the shelve



    ...or make a fancy looking dildo for my wife...



    After a coat of primer I could cut it in half and take it out of the mold. It didn't want to get out easily so I had to scrape the plaster out from inside, the mold is gone.



    Started to cut the holes for USB, BT module pins and GPS logger buttons access, as well as for it's window and cam's window.





    When notching canopy for arms I miscalculated a bit and the cam now touches the front so I'll have to move the canopy a bit forward. I don't have enough PET for my vacuum molding box so I'll try to form my windows in the oven into negative molds. Having my offcuts from the windows I have to make another molds for window forming as my main mold was destroyed.

    A window for CP antenna is a different story... I really don't want to cut that window as it will definitely compromise the strength of the canopy. One crash tits down and that's it, canopy in shite... I know CPs still works when covered (with some loss) so I'll do a test first to find out whether I can get away with leaving antenna covered under fiberglass and resin dome. The distance of the field is approx 500m and radar gun will be standing in the middle, so all I need is up to 300m of clear'ish video feed.
    2.4ghz friendly fuses in molded sailplanes are made with fiberglass and kevlar, just not carbon. You should be fine leaving the antenna covered for now.

    Lookin fast!

  10. #200
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    Thanks for heads up lads! I don't have a directional antenna so I'll check with my DIY CPs, might be OK
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

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