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Thread: Cinetank MK2-L Build thread

  1. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chile Vuela View Post
    Thread-jacking a bit, but here's a video where I talk about what I've got on my 'tank.

    nice little walk through of your setup. I'm curious what is going on at the back. Is that an extended lower plate or a shorter top plate?

    also do you have a link to your gimbal motors? I'm thinking of swapping mine out.

  2. #222
    Navigator Chile Vuela's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    It's the battery extension plate -- http://flyingcinema.com/frames/add-o...ion-plate.html
    In my second crash where the xt60 connector slipped out and the quad fell flat on to hardpack dirt, the Lumenier 5200mah battery bent on impact. So I bought it to help prevent the loss of another battery.
    It says it's compatible with the Mk2 plate, but there are some downsides. The bobbin holes are partially covered and some of the through holes for the frame are covered.

    The gimbal motors are the Tiger GB2208 Hollow shaft motors - http://www.getfpv.com/motors/brushle...low-shaft.html. Threading the wires through is a bit of a chore, but the effort is worth it, I believe. Now if I could only tune the gimbal better, I'd be all set!
    -Matt: destroyer of gimbals, wrecker of frames.

    My YT Channel --> youtube.com/user/mdbardeen
    Blog --> fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?38190-Vuela-Chile-Vuela!-The-ramblings-of-an-American-in-Chile

  3. #223
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    Thanks for the swift reply. Are you using the longer motors for roll axis at all? I'm finding that I occasionally see props in the top left corner when banking fairly hard.

  4. #224
    Navigator Chile Vuela's Avatar
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    No, but I did reverse the gimbal mount so the roll motor is extends out from the frame more. I haven't seen the props in video, but sometimes I get a glimpse of their shadow.
    -Matt: destroyer of gimbals, wrecker of frames.

    My YT Channel --> youtube.com/user/mdbardeen
    Blog --> fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?38190-Vuela-Chile-Vuela!-The-ramblings-of-an-American-in-Chile

  5. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chile Vuela View Post
    Thanks!

    It's the battery extension plate -- http://flyingcinema.com/frames/add-o...ion-plate.html
    In my second crash where the xt60 connector slipped out and the quad fell flat on to hardpack dirt, the Lumenier 5200mah battery bent on impact. So I bought it to help prevent the loss of another battery.
    It says it's compatible with the Mk2 plate, but there are some downsides. The bobbin holes are partially covered and some of the through holes for the frame are covered.

    The gimbal motors are the Tiger GB2208 Hollow shaft motors - http://www.getfpv.com/motors/brushle...low-shaft.html. Threading the wires through is a bit of a chore, but the effort is worth it, I believe. Now if I could only tune the gimbal better, I'd be all set!
    Hi guys,

    i just want want to clarify a couple things that I've read in this thread. First, I have 13" props on my MK2-L and they do fit. That may be because I'm am using 2814 motors which are taller than 3508's and enables the props to move above the top plate and there is no problem.

    Second, the battery extension plate is suppose to attach to the top plate and that way it does not cover up holes and bobbins like the gentleman above has shown and written about.
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  6. #226
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    Yes you are correct about the battery extension plate.

    If your motors are taller than the body you should be able to spin a little bit wider props.

  7. #227
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    Cinecoin

    I am in the process of put my tank on a diet. That means going back from a power distribution board to a cinecoin again. Can Flying Cinema give me an idea of how many amps that copper clad coin can handle?

  8. #228
    flyingcinema.com bllama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malibujv View Post
    I am in the process of put my tank on a diet. That means going back from a power distribution board to a cinecoin again. Can Flying Cinema give me an idea of how many amps that copper clad coin can handle?
    What we do is to lay a thin coat of solder across the surface to increase the resistance that the copper can take. We've never seen anybody with issues with the coins.

    Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

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