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Thread: BlackOut Spider Hex - A Labor of Love

  1. #1
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    BlackOut Spider Hex - A Labor of Love



    . . . did you hear that?
    .
    .
    That was the sound of an empty bank account and flappy wallet. Ive been working on this for a while now. I clicked "Buy" on the frame alone on May 12. And that was the starting gun. That click was the click of commitment. No backing out now, I'm in it.
    I am *still* collecting parts as of the beginning of Aug. Almost finished with parts list. Motors were last for several reasons and I am half way there. Yah, I only have 3 motors as of this writing.

    Here is most of what will be needed/used.


    BlackOut Mini Spider Hex
    TBS Core PnP 25
    TBS 69 camera
    LawMate 2.4G 500mW
    Lost Model Alarm Used in conjunction with This Receiver Actuated Switch
    LED strips for effect
    NAZE 32 Acro
    Black XT-60
    6x Lumenier NFET ESCs 12A SimonK
    DragonLink
    FlyTron Strobes
    16g White Silicon wire
    Sanders style UHF antenna
    Gemfan 5x3 2 Blade
    IBCrazy BlueBeams
    CC BEC
    Nylon Mesh Tubing in Black and Neon Green (not shown)
    Liquid Electrical Tape
    Gold Label CA
    White Nylon Standoffs and Screws from Ebay 6/6 hardness
    Metal File
    Double Sided "Sticky Stuff" servo tape
    Motors are: 6x MN1806 2300kv T-Motors *Not Shown*



    OK! whew. That was a mouthful. Lets get started
    First thing first, SEAL THOSE EDGES
    Here is what they look like straight from the package. See all those layers? Each of those layers is subject to potential de-lamination in this raw state, but with a tiny bit of TLC and some GOLD Label CA (regular CA will craze or frost it and make it ugly) and CA Kicker (I like the aresol, but be sure to use outside if possible.)
    BEFORE


    So take some Thin Gold Label CA and work in thin layers. BE CAREFUL. Thin CA can glue your fingers together faster than you think, and can easily "spill" over the side/edge and onto the "seen" sides. It sets fast and hard to get off so take your time, work with less than you think you need. Build up several layers one at a time. Thin layer > Kicker >Thin layer >Kicker >Thin layer > Kicker. Use a tiny craft swab to help avoid pooling in the corners and to work drips into a glass smooth finish.



    Hanging up to dry after Kicker mists


    I did this to all arms, and the front and back of the bottom plate, top plate, battery tray, and PDB. Basicly all the high impact zones. Taking this time now will save you time and money later (hopefully).




    I did a dry build up of the frame to get an idea of basic construction and component layout. (I put it together wrong, with the PCB on the bottom and the bottom plate on top.)


    Once I had an idea where all my stuff was gonna go (roughly) I sealed up the solder pads that I did not plan on using. Liquid Electrical Tap made short work of that.



    Man that carbon fiber looks sexy!
    Turns out that the basic assembly of the frame is a bit harder than it looks in the MANUAL
    I put the long screws through the bottom plate minus the anti-vibe rubber mounts that attach the battery tray.


    Put a sheet of paper, or cardboard or something of the like, over the screw heads to facilitate an easy flip to get the screw heads on the table in one fell swoop while keeping all of those lil buggers in that bottom plate. Like so...


    Slide the spacers over each screw and the put the PDB down Solder Pad Side Up/LED side down.


    Screw the standoffs on to keep the whole thing together. Do not tighten, leave a little loose to allow ease of insertion of the 6 spacers needed to be put into place for the rubber anti-vibe grommets. I used a wire to poke the spacer into place. Screw the nuts on and carry on.

    Now, anywhere that wire are going to go through the frame, take a file and sooth the edges to a dull rounded edge. Were I knew it was going to be in use alot and prone to being moved often, like on the main battery in, I took some Gold Label CA and made a nice area for the wires to be in contact with.


    Here the Core PnP is installed, routed, soldered on, and sealed up.


    Now we can see the PDB's badass LED's, and I mock up the video system.


    Video Works!


    Anti-Vibe FLIGHT Cam?! Of yeah baby. Blackout is killing it with this kind of forethought.


    Pro Tip- use Part Number HPI6819 for perfect Anti-Vibe for your FC. Those red O-rings are baws.


    Now to get those ESC's ready for the motors' late arrival. UNsoldered the 3 motor wires, the red, and black from all 6 ESC's. Power to FC/Rx will come from Castle Creations 10A BEC.

    Last edited by Dust; 3rd August 2014 at 01:30 AM.
    [SIZE="3"][B]Live Slow - Fly FAST![/B][/SIZE]

    FPV does NOT fly ASAP.

  2. #2
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    Gotta fuel up. This was an amazing pizza from from of my favorite pizza joints Casey's Pizza (a gas station actually, but KILLER 'za!)


    Now I make up a custom plug to make a simple 1 plug solution for all ESC's and UBEC's power using a 6 pin and a 2 pin (thanks to THIS MEGA KIT from Hansen Hobbies.

    CA them together

    Stick in the Signal pins and UBEC's V+ and Gnd

    And plugged in. Neat, clean, solid connection.


    And now its starting to look like something


    And I build the LED skeleton.



    Now lets work on the pretty lights..
    Here is what the LEDs look like before. If left shown would *not* be weatherproof.


    After a dose of Liquid Electrical Tape over all exposed terminals and gaps under the led caps, it looks like this.


    Here it is installed under the battery tray, sealed up, and stuck on.


    Man these are So bright!!


    Sneak peek


    I splash-proof my Naze 32 with liquid electrical tape

    Last edited by Dust; 7th August 2014 at 10:35 PM.
    [SIZE="3"][B]Live Slow - Fly FAST![/B][/SIZE]

    FPV does NOT fly ASAP.

  3. #3
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    *reserved for Videos*
    [SIZE="3"][B]Live Slow - Fly FAST![/B][/SIZE]

    FPV does NOT fly ASAP.

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    Looks amazing! Love what you did with the CA to reinforce the edges. Subbed

  5. #5
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    Nice work

  6. #6
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    Cool, let me know if the pnp25 is big enough for amp draw of the hex, was thinking of putting one in my hex
    [B][SIZE=1][LEFT][SIZE=1]Ritewing Z11, D/L, Ruby, TBS 2.4 - [/SIZE][SIZE=1]Skwalker D/L RVOSD TBS 2.4 - [/SIZE]Quad Junkie Carbine 3, 5, XL & Enduro 7 - QJ Fury 220
    TBS Unify TBS GS DomnHD3
    [/LEFT]
    [/SIZE][/B][LEFT][B][SIZE=1][URL="http://www.quadjunkie.co.nz"]www.quadjunkie.co.nz[/URL][/SIZE][/B][/LEFT]

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxhenn View Post
    Looks amazing! Love what you did with the CA to reinforce the edges. Subbed
    Thanks! I picked that tip up from someone here on the lab. I just wanted to show it and share it.

    Quote Originally Posted by wiggysk View Post
    Nice work
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by ghawkins View Post
    Cool, let me know if the pnp25 is big enough for amp draw of the hex, was thinking of putting one in my hex
    I figured it would be fine since its using 12A esc's, and thats exactly what I am using on the QAV250 I built as well. I actually ordered a PNP 50 from TBS, but got a 25. Also the sticker on the PNP said it was preconfigured for 12v-12v but when I opened it up to change it to 12v-5v I found it already was set to 12v-5v AND found it was a pnp 25 instead of 50. Not a deal breaker since lower rated sensors are more accurate than a high rated but low pull setup.
    On my QAV250 ive seen the A draw spike at like 28A so i know it can go over the rated 25.
    Regardless, Ill let you know how it goes.
    Last edited by Dust; 3rd August 2014 at 01:17 PM.
    [SIZE="3"][B]Live Slow - Fly FAST![/B][/SIZE]

    FPV does NOT fly ASAP.

  8. #8
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    ya got two extra motors now tho and 1/2 kilo more weight than the QAV...
    Quote Originally Posted by Dust View Post
    Thanks! I picked that tip up from someone here on the lab. I just wanted to show it and share it.


    Thanks!



    I figured it would be fine since its using 12A esc's, and thats exactly what I am using on the QAV250 I built as well. I actually ordered a PNP 50 from TBS, but got a 25. Also the sticker on the PNP said it was preconfigured for 12v-12v but when I opened it up to change it to 12v-5v I found it already was set to 12v-5v AND found it was a pnp 25 instead of 50. Not a deal breaker since lower rated sensors are more accurate than a high rated but low pull setup.
    On my QAV250 ive seen the A draw spike at like 28A so i know it can go over the rated 25.
    Regardless, Ill let you know how it goes.
    [B][SIZE=1][LEFT][SIZE=1]Ritewing Z11, D/L, Ruby, TBS 2.4 - [/SIZE][SIZE=1]Skwalker D/L RVOSD TBS 2.4 - [/SIZE]Quad Junkie Carbine 3, 5, XL & Enduro 7 - QJ Fury 220
    TBS Unify TBS GS DomnHD3
    [/LEFT]
    [/SIZE][/B][LEFT][B][SIZE=1][URL="http://www.quadjunkie.co.nz"]www.quadjunkie.co.nz[/URL][/SIZE][/B][/LEFT]

  9. #9
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    I think (could be wrong) that the load is shared between all of the esc's/motors so adding more shouldn't increase Amp draw. The extra weight however could increase the draw but that could be countered by running 4cell as higher V will yield a lower Amp pull.
    Last edited by Dust; 3rd August 2014 at 11:41 PM.
    [SIZE="3"][B]Live Slow - Fly FAST![/B][/SIZE]

    FPV does NOT fly ASAP.

  10. #10
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    oh your on 4s, that will haul ass
    [B][SIZE=1][LEFT][SIZE=1]Ritewing Z11, D/L, Ruby, TBS 2.4 - [/SIZE][SIZE=1]Skwalker D/L RVOSD TBS 2.4 - [/SIZE]Quad Junkie Carbine 3, 5, XL & Enduro 7 - QJ Fury 220
    TBS Unify TBS GS DomnHD3
    [/LEFT]
    [/SIZE][/B][LEFT][B][SIZE=1][URL="http://www.quadjunkie.co.nz"]www.quadjunkie.co.nz[/URL][/SIZE][/B][/LEFT]

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