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Thread: FPV TEK SUMO Try 2 Mountan plane

  1. #31
    Navigator marzvt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marzvt View Post
    ah, Ill weigh it tonight and let you know.
    I'm changing a few things and adding a gopro. I will weight it when all that is done.

  2. #32
    Navigator IsaacW's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    Just finished my blunt Teksumo a few days ago. Some specs:

    -1.3ghz 800mw (500mw) tx with cloverleaf and lawmate rx with skew-planar
    -wdr750
    -Turnigy 20c 2200mah 3s
    -BC2826-10 1400KV Outrunner 50g from RCTimer
    -7x5E prop from rctimer (Was using an 8x4SF but I found it much too slow. Once I changed to a 7x5 it was soo much better. I'm yet to try a 7x6apc or an 8x4E)
    -HK simple OSD
    -Corona RP8D1 with stock antenna
    -HK929MG Servos
    -40amp Plush ESC (Overrated but the weight is no issue and it has a 3amp switching bec as oppose to the 2amp linear bec of the 30A plush)
    -Home made LC filter (6 turns on the inductor and a 460uf 16v cap. Doesn't seem to get all the noise though and I'm not sure why. There's no video wires crossing main power.. any ideas anyone?)
    -Two GA-250 MEMS gyros (Still testing them out but they do help in the wind. The problem I'm having is they seem to dampen the controls quite a bit and also they have to be turned down for high speeds or they'll throw your plane around due to over reacting. I've been using them for landing and when gliding up high or when I just need a bit of stability going in a straight line - Went through some goal posts yesterday and they really helped in the wind. I'm planning on putting them on the same switch(s) as dual rates so I can turn up the rates when the gyros go on to compensate for the dampened controls)
    -HD808 #11 keycam (I have this mounted in tictac box to keep the 180 wide lens positioned in front of the lens. I had this mounted in the front beside the flight cam but it got cracked on a nose in so I moved it to the side where it's much better protected)


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    All up weight was to begin with 815g (28.7oz) rtf. Unfortunately I had greatly underestimated how much the cg would move with the addition of the centre section, and so the plane was hugely tail heavy on the maiden (sort of) and crashed a bunch of times breaking my camera pan and cracking my keycam case etc. It took 87grams (3oz) of lead and moving my battery way foward to get it to fly right! Might as well have just put a gopro on there. So the final weight was 970 grams (34.2oz) with the lead and gyros that I added.

    I have managed to go 2km (1.2miles) with it so far. I was flying yesterday afternoon and was 1km out and was above some low cloud. No glitches at all (that I noticed - it was quite windy so I might not have felt them) when my plane rolls right and starts heading straight down! I raised my tx up and nothing. Tried holding it horizontal and everything but nothing would work. Then when I was a lot lower I got signal back but couldn't pull up so pulled inverted and went full throttle to try and get back out of there but lost signal again and went full throttle all the way to the ground. Luckily it missed all the MASSIVE (these are really really huge tall trees. As in trees that have trunks wider than a car. Yup. huge.) trees that were everywhere otherwise I would never have got it back. I finally found it after about 45min searching. What was really amazing is that I had perfectly flyable video ALL the way to the ground with just my omni cloverleaf and skew-planar! This was behind several buildings and heaps on trees 1km away (0.6miles). I'm seriously considering getting a LRS as that is the huge limiting factor right now.
    So the plane was mainly in one piece except the nose was all broken and squashed due the hollowing out it had been given for the battery and keycam. Battery was majorly squashed but I've squashed it back into shape and seems to be ok . Looking at all the components in the plane the force of the impact must have been HUGE. I'm just so dissapointed I wasn't recording the whole thing .

    Anyway so I'm really happy with how the plane was performing. Could reach the clouds, fairly fast, decent flight time (I reckon I could get a least 20 min easy), durable (proven to the extreme), and all this with 3oz of lead in the nose. So I can't wait to get it all fixed up and get rid of the lead. Any comments or suggestions welcome. This was my first FPV plane .
    Last edited by IsaacW; 15th December 2011 at 10:38 PM.

  3. #33
    Test Pilot Crash's Avatar
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    Toss the battery, they are cheap and not worth burning your house down. Hell I'll send you another battery if you're seriously going to keep a battery you smashed and flattened back to shape.
    vimeo.com/user7363437/videos

  4. #34
    Test Pilot Crash's Avatar
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    Glad to see you've done your research on equipment and seem to have a good idea of the basics of FPV, but my only recommendation for a first fpv plane is to start simple. Ditch the go pro, ditch the gyros, ditch the pan/tilt. Just fly with the bare minimums and a 808 keychain cam. The plane will be a lot lighter and more fun to fly. It will also be lighter when it crashes so it's less impact to the airframe and easier to repair. Good job though, look forward to seeing more
    vimeo.com/user7363437/videos

  5. #35
    Navigator IsaacW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crash View Post
    Toss the battery, they are cheap and not worth burning your house down. Hell I'll send you another battery if you're seriously going to keep a battery you smashed and flattened back to shape.
    Haha yes it does seem a bit silly but I'm keeping it outside at the moment so it doesn't burn down my house. I was going to chuck it but it doesn't seem to be punctured or anything and I'm a bit of a cheap ass. Once you pay shipping and everything from hobbyking it adds up. From my local hobby shop would cost me exactly 8 times the price. I live in New Zealand so um, that might be a bit of a hassle. Thanks for offering though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crash View Post
    Glad to see you've done your research on equipment and seem to have a good idea of the basics of FPV, but my only recommendation for a first fpv plane is to start simple. Ditch the go pro, ditch the gyros, ditch the pan/tilt. Just fly with the bare minimums and a 808 keychain cam. The plane will be a lot lighter and more fun to fly. It will also be lighter when it crashes so it's less impact to the airframe and easier to repair. Good job though, look forward to seeing more
    I don't actually have a gopro (I wish), was just sort of a weight comparison. But the keycam works great with the wide angle lens. Has a gopro sort of look, but cheaper and smaller. I tried pan again on the cam after it broke off and found it to be not that useful. I'm going to try a wider lens for when I'm down low tree dodging. Tilt would be useful but I'm going to just keep it fixed as it's too fragile. After my pan broke (again), I attached the cam at the field by taping the little metal camera holder thingy that comes with the cam straight onto the laminate. I can adjust the tilt angle to my liking and it's super strong. It was still held on after my massive crash!

    The gyros I only added after a few flights. They were $10 each and thought I might as well try them out as it had been constantly windy. They definitely help and once I get them set up properly the benefits are going to be there for sure. Another thing I feel is that you don't really need gps osd. My simple HK osd gives my battery voltage and timer and that's all I really need at the moment. As long as you have a good long look at google earth then it's not too difficult to not get lost. Sure it would be nice, but it isn't needed to fly fpv. More important I think is reliability. Hence why I am really considering getting a dragonlink (although it is a lot of money) just so that's one less thing I have to worry about.

  6. #36
    Test Pilot Crash's Avatar
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    You can have a lot of fun on 72mhz. I would try to figure out why you lost link before trying to upgrade to a UHF. Gyros are cool but very difficult to get dialed in. Gyros only work well at whatever speed they are tuned to and will inhibit flying at any speed other than that. Due to the wide speed range of a wing, gyros get in the way more than anything. Dial in a lot of expo and reduce your throws and get the CG right, it's amazing how much smoother it will feel in the air.

    Back to batteries, toss the battery. If you had to reshape it then it's bad. If its not safe enough to keep in your house for fear of burning your house down then it's not safe in your plane with your expensive gear. Even ordering just 1 battery from HK is cheaper than a house or plane on fire.
    vimeo.com/user7363437/videos

  7. #37
    Crashing Vitamin J's Avatar
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    Dude sucks to hear about the crash! That was a cool plane. Are you planning on rebuilding it?

    I've got a couple bent/rebent batts, I just keep them in an old ammo box.

  8. #38
    Pilot ivc's Avatar
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    IsaacW: To eliminate the video noise you have, try a common mode power filter. Common mode means that it filters both the positive and negative (gnd) lead, removing any noise that is picked up from nearby wires or a shared battery.

    Check (shameless plug) http://beta.ivc.no/lc_power_filter/

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