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Thread: JR X9503 PPM mod

  1. #21
    RTFM aeryck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger GBU-1H View Post
    Okay, let me see if I understand correctly:

    Step 1. Remove battery

    Step 2. Open case

    Step 3. Scratch off copper trace on the PCB between "Plug Lead" and C71

    Step 4. Solder one end of wire on to the terminal 4th from the left under connector J14 (I think - not clear from the pics).

    Step 5. Solder the other end to the "Plug Lead" terminal on the PCB.

    Once this is done, I should be able to plug in the Rangelink to the trainer port to receive the correct type of PPM - correct?

    Will my Tx also still be able to be used for standard 2.4 transmissions with my other Spektrum receiver -equipped models when not using the Rangelink?

    Thanks
    That's correct. And your Tx should still work just fine on 2.4GHz without the trainer cord plugged in. The PPM mod only affects the trainer jack, and should not affect any other functions of the radio.
    Far better is it to dare mighty things, even though checkered by failure; than to take rank with those who neither enjoy much or suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat.

  2. #22
    Navigator Airbender's Avatar
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    Aeryck,

    Thanks...that really clears it up now. What threw me off on the original pics was both ends of the wire going off the left side of the frame. Made me think this was two wires connected to something else. Clear as day now!

  3. #23
    cute, furry a_marmot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeryck View Post
    In the images attached on the OP, the green wires are, in fact, a single wire - you just don't see where it loops around off-frame. The wire ties the point on the left of the image with the point on the right of the image, feeding the unattenuated 5v PPM signal directly to the trainer port jack, rather than through other circuitry that attenuates and ac couples it.
    Thanks aeryck, took the words right out of my mouth. It's just one jumper. But I've only tested this with TSLRS. Be sure the Rangelink is compatible with the higher voltage (5V) and inverted polarization.

    Perhaps others who have followed this thread, and used the modification could please report which systems it has proven to work successfully with!
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  4. #24
    cute, furry a_marmot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankdazzle View Post
    Thanks for making this thread. It's been quite useful. I'm wondering where the appropriate point is to connect the power to the DL? I know some people power it separately, but someone mentioned in this thread he had figured out a way to get the (switched) power from the X9503 to his DL. Sadly I'm still learning how to find these things out for myself or I'd just figure it out and post it here for everyone.

    Edit: I considered just wiring inline with the power switch, but since the trainer port seems to power up the unit any time something is plugged in this didn't seem the best solution...
    Personally I like the outboard battery. With the 2.4 GHz off, the NiMH battery in the JR lasts forever because it is only powering the CPU. If you tried to power a TSLRS from the internal battery it would get sucked dry in a jiffy. Instead I power the UHF from a honking LiPo with an audible battery alarm in case it gets low during a flight.
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  5. #25
    RTFM aeryck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_marmot View Post
    Thanks aeryck, took the words right out of my mouth. It's just one jumper. But I've only tested this with TSLRS. Be sure the Rangelink is compatible with the higher voltage (5V) and inverted polarization.

    Perhaps others who have followed this thread, and used the modification could please report which systems it has proven to work successfully with!
    Good point, I hadn't considered positive vs negative shift PPM streams.
    Far better is it to dare mighty things, even though checkered by failure; than to take rank with those who neither enjoy much or suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat.

  6. #26
    cute, furry a_marmot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeryck View Post
    Good point, I hadn't considered positive vs negative shift PPM streams.
    My advice to anyone attempting this mod is to first open the case and tap the 5V ppm, feed it into their UHF, and make sure it works. THEN do the mod.

    And if it does work, please report back on this thread which UHF systems work with the tapped signal (so you can save the next person the effort!)
    Last edited by a_marmot; 6th January 2012 at 03:18 PM.
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  7. #27
    Navigator Freshmint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_marmot View Post
    My advice to anyone attempting this mod is to first open the case and tap the 5V ppm, feed it into their UHF, and make sure it works. THEN do the mod.

    And if it does work, please report back on this thread which UHF systems work with the tapped signal (so you can save the next person the effort!)
    When I tap the 5v ppm do I still need to Step 3. Scratch off copper trace on the PCB between "Plug Lead" and C71

  8. #28
    cute, furry a_marmot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger GBU-1H View Post
    Aeryck,

    Thanks...that really clears it up now. What threw me off on the original pics was both ends of the wire going off the left side of the frame. Made me think this was two wires connected to something else. Clear as day now!
    OK, I just modified the picture to try to make this clearer.
    _________________________________________________
    "What's behind me is not important."
    - Raoul Julia, "Gumball Rally", 1976.

  9. #29
    cute, furry a_marmot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freshmint View Post
    When I tap the 5v ppm do I still need to Step 3. Scratch off copper trace on the PCB between "Plug Lead" and C71
    What I am suggesting is to check first (before you scratch the PC board and solder a wire jumper). You can do this by connecting alligator leads to the 5V ppm and ground somewhere, then run this into your UHF and see if it works. (You can temporarily activate the PPM by plugging a disconnected mono jack into the trainer port).
    _________________________________________________
    "What's behind me is not important."
    - Raoul Julia, "Gumball Rally", 1976.

  10. #30
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    I'll try and dig up the photos I used to modify my JR9503 to directly power my DL Transmitter without having to have a separate power source. Everything I used to do with my Tx is still available, like fly my mCpx and other DSM2 planes as well as use the Phoenix sim. So to use my DL on my JR9503 I:
    1. Power up and select the model I want to fly then shut it off (main power switch)
    2. Velcro my DL Tx to the back of the Tx
    3. Connect the 3 wire plug from the DL to the one coming out of my 9503. I used a servo plug.
    4. Plug a dummy trainer plug into the trainer port and everything comes to life. (Tx power switch stays off) I used an old ipod headphone plug.

    When in this mode:
    1. DL is powered up and sends the PPM stream from inside the radio (More than 4 channels I think)
    2. The 2.4 ghz module is NOT transmitting
    3. All radio functions including timers and the backlight work as before.

    Easy peasy

    Now I am trying to figure out how I can use two of the remaining channels above 4 as pan/tilt for a headtracker. Problem is there are no other pots on this radio besides the basic two sticks....

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