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Håvard Støre
4th February 2017, 08:29 PM
Got this beautiful kit yesterday. Its just amazing how this thing assembles. The grooves for the spars are cncd into the surface of the wingcores. There is an enormous amount of spars in all the right places, and the motor mount is exquisite. This is real engineering!

Please feel free to comment, question or advice:D

CG locations for HC and spec wings.
HC 48 Vollocity 8 1/4
HC 44 7 3/4
HC 38 7.5
HC 24 4 3/4
Spec 37" 6 3/4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgCyRYNFJHM

Håvard Støre
4th February 2017, 08:30 PM
Build video 2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-Xrstd6fmI

Håvard Støre
4th February 2017, 08:30 PM
Build video 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3U5jKi1dpv8&t=58s

Is the Ritewing Hardcore any good?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut70raRH-us

Håvard Støre
4th February 2017, 08:31 PM
Build video 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=304ODOT6UKc

Håvard Støre
4th February 2017, 08:31 PM
Windy maiden:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVJnkf4v-I4

Hoss
4th February 2017, 08:32 PM
Yay. Subbed.

Håvard Støre
11th February 2017, 07:50 PM
The first 3 videos are done:-) Please feel free to comment, suggest or advice.

porsche911
11th February 2017, 11:33 PM
Thanks for the build videos. I will be starting my build next week. Kit is in though. Are the rods carbon or fiberglass?

Hoss
11th February 2017, 11:54 PM
Fiber. It's I beam configuration, so it's ridiculously strong once sparred. If someone paid you to break one by hand, it would take some work.

Håvard Støre
12th February 2017, 07:52 AM
Thanks for the build videos. I will be starting my build next week. Kit is in though. Are the rods carbon or fiberglass?
I haven't mentioned this in the videos yet, but this is a plane that builds tail heavy unless you are careful. Place all gear as far towards the nose as possible, and choose heavyish servos. My Hitec82s will help some, I will also utilize the battery compartment for some of the electronics. Only use a single layer of .3 or .5 lam as any extra layer will make the plane more tail heavy. A Runcam 2 also helps.

billyd
13th February 2017, 12:59 PM
Nice. Why not use laminate for the hinges? Scotch tape will yellow in sunlight...

Håvard Støre
13th February 2017, 03:38 PM
Nice. Why not use laminate for the hinges? Scotch tape will yellow in sunlight...
When I said Scotch tape, I really meant packing tape. If yellowing is a concern (I couldn't care less, lol) you can buy UV resistant packing tape. Dont remember the brand. (3m or scotch)

The point of Z-hinging with tape is superior precision and stability in the finished hinge. The standard laminate hinge can in theory slip up or down a little as it is not really locked. I say in theory because laminate hinges are usually quite good. When it comes to precision between the top surface of the wing in relation to the top surface of the elevon, the laminate hinge is a bit hard to get right. Especially if the trailing edge of the wing is uneven or slightly warped like on a typical EPP wing.

This is Chris explaining:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bX86n3FUSdU

ritewing
13th February 2017, 03:40 PM
Yes it will build tail heavy if you go heavy motor and light flight cam. If you go with a flight cam only then go with the 2217 2300 and its perfect for a 4s 3300. If you go with a mobius or run cam its still prety close but mite have to do a little added weight or motor location manipulation. If you go 2814 1700 to 2100 and a flight cam only you can go 4s 4500 nanotec. We also use 225 mg hitec servos. This helps, smaller 85 size is too small for robustness and travel needed. The HS 85 will work but I would rather go with a more robust servo since you need the weight.

If you go with a sessions and flight cam you can go 3300 4s. Just Hit CG it will fly no matter what.
I haven't mentioned this in the videos yet, but this is a plane that builds tail heavy unless you are careful. Place all gear as far towards the nose as possible, and choose heavyish servos. My Hitec82s will help some, I will also utilize the battery compartment for some of the electronics. Only use a single layer of .3 or .5 lam as any extra layer will make the plane more tail heavy. A Runcam 2 also helps.

Hoss
13th February 2017, 03:49 PM
Nice. Why not use laminate for the hinges? Scotch tape will yellow in sunlight...
I use the z hinge as well with storage tape (uv resistant) on the inner and outer portions of the control surface to get it nice and tight, but then do the actual hinge with laminate. The z hinge isn't a permanent "hinge", it's just a method to get it held up super tight to the trailing edge of the wing while you get your actual hinge in place. The hinge itself can be done with tape or laminate.

Mach3
15th February 2017, 04:20 AM
Looking good, can't wait to start on mine once I clean up enough bench space ;-)

ritewing
15th February 2017, 12:41 PM
Hey guys, I keep seeing you guys miss a very important aspect of this build.
We use thick CA to fit all FG spars in place, this keeps it very light.

Process as follows

After wing beds are split and glued together.

Cut motor slot and pre fit plate
Cut in all shelf recesses for lids and bays, much easier done before gluing wings together

Glue wings together, I use 3 m 90 to glue roots, its perfect for this,, set in beds

Pre fit all FG rods in place top an bottom, use small razor to deepen every channel if needed.
Do not glue in place yet.

Since this is a race wing it is imperative that this wing is super true so we do not glue any rods in until we look down its TE and LE and make sure its strait.
We want to lock it in fast so it is true.

If its not true it will not fly to its fullest capability!!!

With the rods in this allows you to do this and make any final adjustments to LE. This is very critical to its handling. I myself do not glue these in one by one at a time, I do not use goop or gorilla to do the lock in.

Once LE looks strait set gently in wing beds to be careful to keep strait.

Then weight the wing on its TE and do not weight them ahead of high point of airfoil, NO WEIGHT CLOSE TO LE, this will bow the LE.

Now lock the FG rods in with Thick CA, be generous, then lock with activator . CA on the cut bead foam in spar slots works awesome it soaks into the bead and sticks very well to FG.

Then after a few hrs flip and do other side, prior to lock in make sure all is strait prior to lock in, LE being critical to performance, so get it true before glue!!!

After all of this is done then sand entire wing till smooth and fuzzy, this removes the CA residual.
Now for a very important part, take the goop and run its nozzle directly onto all spar channels to fill them with a micro bead down into the FG rod spar slots.
This locks them in with a nice surface layer of goop, wipe in any goop excess .
Let dry!

Then heavy coat 3 m 90 on entire wing let dry for one day to gass off, this make a medium for the paint to stick to, it also keeps so much paint from soaking in the wings and gives nice base for color.
It also allows the lam to stick to the foam super well, it warms up and sticks the paint the lam and the foam all together extremely well.
Now glue in motor plate before lam.

Now we have goop over the spars and in the crevices, 3 m 90 and paint to stick it down like crazy and allows you to re stick lam later with the heat of the iron if you have areas in need of repair.

Now here is the key point of the process ,, in the area where you put the goop it sticks to the lam extremely well to tie together the spars matix and adds all the surface strength added by the lam.

I know everyone is stuck in their ways of building its hard to get people to try new things, but this is new and works very very well. It ensures a super strait extremely true, light, and durable wing that will rip and fly like rails.
It also builds in a fraction of the time that you are showing in this build. Please Keep these points in consideration. Alot of efforts went into this method to go to the next level.

Håvard Støre
15th February 2017, 01:41 PM
Thanks for all the pointers and advice Chris. I will include these instructions in the beginning of my 4th video.

Hoss
15th February 2017, 01:44 PM
That's for the tips Chris - I'm sure this will help a lot of guys with their builds. I have a question about the CA - what happens after a crash or 8? CA by nature is rock hard, incredibly brittle and in no way flexible once cured, but wings are. If you CA something, let it dry, then pick it up and bend it, it crunches and cracks and breaks off of whatever you glued it to. The I beam configuration gets all its strength from the relationship of the 2 spars and the fact that they can't move in relation to one another. Are you worried that after a couple hard impacts that the CA will be all cracked up and the spars will be free in those areas? They definitely won't come out due to the over layer of goop and the laminate on top of that, but in the wing they won't be connected to the foam anymore, which is what gives them their strength to begin with. Maybe I'm missing something, but if that is the case, wouldn't it be better to sacrifice a couple grams and hours to dry to guarantee that didn't happen down the road? I'm not guaranteeing that it will - that's just the way it seems based on how I've seen ca act once dry. Goop is rubber for life and is never coming off, cracking or coming loose. I'm not saying that CA won't work - you for sure have tons more experience than I do with building, so don't take it that way please - just curious what your thoughts are around how brittle CA is. Thanks man.

ritewing
15th February 2017, 02:05 PM
CA does a Great bond to EPP if the bead is cut like it is. Get good CA and dont be sparse with it.
It sticks very well to cut foam.
The goop topper and the lam locking down to the foam adjacent to the spars gives it the other end of the spectrum that your worried about.

Its the entire system, not just the strip FG rod, think bigger guys!!!

They have been plowed into gates at races only to be tossed back up immediately.

This method locks you in strait in very fast order. Fiddling with a fg spars one at a time gooping or welders will ensure you will be wresting with this build the entire time to keep it strait. If its not true you know why .
The key to he planes handling is the keeping it absolutely true.

Again, you are thinking old school overbuild techniques.

Hmerly
15th February 2017, 04:51 PM
I've used ca glue to put in fg spars since I started and have never had them come loose. I use to cover over with hot glue but now just use goop. Works great, is pretty much permanent, and doesn't come loose after many crashes. Usually, you'll have other things breaking well before your spars.

gobigdale
15th February 2017, 08:01 PM
here- subbed.

Håvard Støre
15th February 2017, 08:52 PM
here- subbed.
Teaser:-)
76008

maktek
15th February 2017, 10:31 PM
So if i read Chris's instructions correct i should place all of the FG spars on either the top or bottom first then make sure the wing is straight and true. Then soak in a heavy coat of CA apply activator let the wing dry sand then go over each spar with goop.

Hoss
15th February 2017, 10:49 PM
So if i read Chris's instructions correct i should place all of the FG spars on either the top or bottom first then make sure the wing is straight and true. Then soak in a heavy coat of CA apply activator let the wing dry sand then go over each spar with goop.
Yup. But do it all in the wing beds. As long as you're in the wing beds and weighting it down correctly to dry, it has no choice but to dry perfectly true, whether you're using concrete, peanut butter, CA or anything else. Where you stand the biggest chance of getting it out of alignment is during laminating. Laminate shrinks as it heats, so you can end up with a nice bow in the wing in both the front to back or wing tip to wing tip axis if you're not careful with what you're doing. Personally, I do each side in 3 pieces to combat this, and I check along the way to be sure nothing is developing that might cause me issues down the road. I'm sure other people have their own techniques, but that works for me. I've done full lam jobs (I sheet each side) before and usually had to work a bow out of one side by countering it with the other side - that's no fun and guaranteed to leave a small twist somewhere that is going to affect your flying. If you spend a little time on the edges where it overlaps, you can get it so you can't find the seam when you're done. Good luck.

ritewing
15th February 2017, 11:19 PM
They should be in the top and bottom before you glue. Make sure the all fit, make sure all is strait before you glue. Then glue top and let cure. Then inspect as you flip to other wing bed, then if strait then glue bottom. If not then straiten, then glue and activate.


So if i read Chris's instructions correct i should place all of the FG spars on either the top or bottom first then make sure the wing is straight and true. Then soak in a heavy coat of CA apply activator let the wing dry sand then go over each spar with goop.

Håvard Støre
16th February 2017, 06:21 AM
How much throw do you recommend for elevator and aileron? Should the up and down movements be equal?

maktek
16th February 2017, 07:43 AM
I test fitted all of the spars last night. Thanks Chris for the quick answer about center cross spar needed to be chopped in half for both sides. Everything looks good. Just have to wait for CA from Amazon. I don't usually use CA for anything.

maktek
16th February 2017, 07:45 AM
Yup. But do it all in the wing beds. As long as you're in the wing beds and weighting it down correctly to dry, it has no choice but to dry perfectly true, whether you're using concrete, peanut butter, CA or anything else. Where you stand the biggest chance of getting it out of alignment is during laminating. Laminate shrinks as it heats, so you can end up with a nice bow in the wing in both the front to back or wing tip to wing tip axis if you're not careful with what you're doing. Personally, I do each side in 3 pieces to combat this, and I check along the way to be sure nothing is developing that might cause me issues down the road. I'm sure other people have their own techniques, but that works for me. I've done full lam jobs (I sheet each side) before and usually had to work a bow out of one side by countering it with the other side - that's no fun and guaranteed to leave a small twist somewhere that is going to affect your flying. If you spend a little time on the edges where it overlaps, you can get it so you can't find the seam when you're done. Good luck.

Thanks I will be sure to keep an eye on this when laminating.

billyd
17th February 2017, 01:38 AM
"CA on the cut bead foam in spar slots works awesome it soaks into the bead and sticks very well to FG"

Chris, can you rephrase this statement? I have no idea what you are trying to say here. Thanks.

ritewing
17th February 2017, 01:44 AM
CA. AKA super glue used on the Hotwire cut bead foam works very very well to put in the fiber glass rods. The router slices the bead open and the glue wicks into the bead for a very good bond between the rod and the bead foam cnc cut spar slits

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billyd
17th February 2017, 10:47 AM
CA. AKA super glue used on the Hotwire cut bead foam works very very well to put in the fiber glass rods. The router slices the bead open and the glue wicks into the bead for a very good bond between the rod and the bead foam cnc cut spar slits

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Thanks sorry it was late and every time I read it I was like... what??? Thanks I get you now. I'm probably going to get one of these soon, but I have to clear my shop table first... too many projects going.

maktek
18th February 2017, 07:16 AM
Using Chris's method i have started the glueing process. I wanted to get this part done as it is supposed to be in the 60's here on Sunday which would be a perfect day to paint outside. Wife doesn't like the paint fumes coming out of the basement.

76028

Roboforcer X2000
18th February 2017, 03:08 PM
Wife doesn't like the paint fumes coming out of the basement.
I heard that complaint from my wife as well, but the smell of acetone is perfectly fine when she and my two daughters painting their nails in the kitchen, all 3 at the same time...

Cymbilant
18th February 2017, 04:41 PM
Another tip on the CA glue in process, use the rubber impregnated CA the Black Stuff! Thats a Tip direct from Mr Rite Wing himself!! Also Did my HC 63 that way.

Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 05:09 PM
Another tip on the CA glue in process, use the rubber impregnated CA the Black Stuff! Thats a Tip direct from Mr Rite Wing himself!! Also Did my HC 63 that way.
Do you have a link to this product?

Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 05:10 PM
Build video 4:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=304ODOT6UKc

ritewing
18th February 2017, 06:11 PM
Great video bro

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Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 06:18 PM
Great video bro

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Glad you liked it:-)

maktek
18th February 2017, 06:27 PM
You have some serious talent with tape. Your Hardcore looks amazing. Thanks for putting together video series it was helpful for my build.

Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 06:33 PM
You have some serious talent with tape. Your Hardcore looks amazing. Thanks for putting together video series it was helpful for my build.
Thanks:-) I love working with colored tape. Its easier than it looks, but its important to learn how to cut it without damaging the underlying laminate.

ritewing
18th February 2017, 06:34 PM
Its going to RAIL!!!

Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 07:10 PM
Its going to RAIL!!!
Yes it is:-) How much throw do you recommend on elevator and ailerons? Should the up and down travel be the same?

ritewing
18th February 2017, 07:17 PM
Not much, but dont worry just fly and tune. Its throws are like a Z2.
I would start 1/2 inch ail and elev

Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 07:19 PM
Not much, but dont worry just fly and tune. Its throws are like a Z2.
I would start 1/2 inch ail and elev
Excellent bro:-)

ritewing
18th February 2017, 07:23 PM
Here's a straight edged out by the winglet. It has about a one and a half to two millimeter Gap when you hold a straight edge across the wing and onto the elavon, this is a good pre pre-flight trim point.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/026dff6dc4afac8d5223f260cdd6d429.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/89aa7e3f2ad3a252a59438404a913a71.jpg

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Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 07:34 PM
Thanks again. I liked the new ABS wing fences btw. Very easy to install.

Cymbilant
18th February 2017, 10:53 PM
Do you have a link to this product?

https://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53_677_679&products_id=645

Håvard Støre
18th February 2017, 11:52 PM
Thanks:-)

Rctintin
19th February 2017, 06:30 AM
Hi guys, just ordered myself a HC 44 last night from Chris.

Quick qusetion please, does the CA have to be 'foam safe' CA, or will normal Zap Thick CA be ok on this wing?

cheers

ritewing
19th February 2017, 11:37 AM
Shelby training for CFL races. https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=f72AdRxvujE

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Håvard Støre
19th February 2017, 11:47 AM
I love his style:-)

Rctintin
19th February 2017, 12:54 PM
Holy crap that was fast!! What motor/prop is he using?

ritewing
19th February 2017, 12:56 PM
My 2814 1700 Mini Drak motor on 4s and a 7x6 apc. HD and close to the deck really gets your into the perspective of speed

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maktek
19th February 2017, 10:05 PM
What is the difference between the Ritewing 2814 and the Cobra 2814.


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Zangetsu57
19th February 2017, 10:52 PM
I'm in the process of building my HC44 now - this is a fantastic kit! I ordered Emax ES3154 servos (https://www.emaxmodel.com/es3154-17g-bearing-metal-digital-servo.html), which I use in my 54" VAS Chimera and work great. I figured that if they work in my 100+mph Chimera, these are good enough. That said, I see folks are using mini servos, and the ES3154 are a bit smaller than a "mini" servo. At a stall torque of 2.5 kg-cm @4.8V, are these beefy enough?

ritewing
19th February 2017, 11:53 PM
What is the difference between the Ritewing 2814 and the Cobra 2814.


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Copper, the prop adaptor is custom with its custom longer shaft that reversed out the radial side . Up grade bearings

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Hoss
20th February 2017, 02:19 PM
Hi guys, just ordered myself a HC 44 last night from Chris.

Quick qusetion please, does the CA have to be 'foam safe' CA, or will normal Zap Thick CA be ok on this wing?

cheers
Regular is fine for epp - as are most glues. Epo reacts poorly to many glues / solvents and needs foam safe everything, but epp does fine with it.

ritewing
20th February 2017, 02:22 PM
Amazon, this glue rockshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170220/8dc6da2679def83bccc3cc5e6539b026.jpg

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Håvard Støre
20th February 2017, 05:10 PM
Chris just hooked me up with a Hardcore 30. I will make a new build video thread when it arrives. It will of course be built with Chris recommended gluing techniques. I am so stoked:-) Will be nice to have something pocket sized to fly.

Rctintin
20th February 2017, 07:32 PM
This is going to get a habit i feel!!

What size lipo/motor/esc in the HC30?

Håvard Støre
20th February 2017, 08:42 PM
This is going to get a habit i feel!!

What size lipo/motor/esc in the HC30?
No idea. This is the first time I bought a plane, without doing any homework. I am sure Chris have suggestions for a really hot setup.

superdr34
20th February 2017, 09:52 PM
Is the 30" or 38" listed anywhere or special order?

ritewing
20th February 2017, 09:54 PM
Pm me

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maktek
21st February 2017, 06:49 AM
I did some painting over the weekend. Will Hopefully laminate over the next few nights.

76056

Rctintin
21st February 2017, 07:09 AM
Looks great. What paint, and did you use 3M 90 spray first?

Rctintin
21st February 2017, 07:13 AM
76057

This is my Z11, but it made it really heavy. Water based acrylic paint iirc, but to get the colour, that took 4-5 coats iirc.

maktek
21st February 2017, 07:43 AM
Looks great. What paint, and did you use 3M 90 spray first?

Yes i used 3m 90 first as recommended by Chris. Then a couple light coats of Krylon spray paint of each color. I tried not to go over board.

Hoss
21st February 2017, 08:07 AM
That looks great. Both of them. Nice job.

Håvard Støre
21st February 2017, 09:13 AM
I did some painting over the weekend. Will Hopefully laminate over the next few nights.

76056

Looking very good:-)

Hmerly
22nd February 2017, 12:11 AM
I bought a cam of 3m90. It comes out almost like silly string. Is that normal?

ritewing
22nd February 2017, 12:13 AM
Yes also turn the nozzle clockwise on high. Hold about 6 inches maybe five inches away when you spray. Don't be frugal. If you look into the hole where the nozzle plugs into the spray can and you can see the high and low letters stating where you're at

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Zangetsu57
22nd February 2017, 01:21 AM
I bought a cam of 3m90. It comes out almost like silly string. Is that normal?

Yep!

maktek
22nd February 2017, 06:34 AM
The 3m90 definitely makes a difference. I started laminating last night and the laminate is going on so easy and looks great.

superdr34
23rd February 2017, 11:00 AM
Pm me

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Sent PM

Håvard Støre
23rd February 2017, 02:51 PM
Chris:
With my gear placement I have become a bit nose heavy. Is it ok to mount the motor like this or should I move esc/battery further back instead?
76076

Hmerly
23rd February 2017, 03:07 PM
Damn, what battery are you using? Building this wing nose heavy is not that easy to do

Håvard Støre
23rd February 2017, 03:13 PM
Damn, what battery are you using? Building this wing nose heavy is not that easy to do
I put the esc in the battery bay and the vtx to the front of the back bay. I use this battery:
https://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_216&products_id=5429

ritewing
24th February 2017, 04:46 AM
Ye you can mount like that, but I would mount the bracket to the top of the u plate and flip it over so the heat sink part of the mount is on the top
Chris:
With my gear placement I have become a bit nose heavy. Is it ok to mount the motor like this or should I move esc/battery further back instead?
76076

Håvard Støre
24th February 2017, 07:33 AM
Thanks Chris, will do:-)

Håvard Støre
25th February 2017, 12:08 PM
Maiden tomorrow morning. It will be a bit windy, but I need to fly anyway. Hard flying, lol.

Håvard Støre
26th February 2017, 05:14 PM
Huzza guys! This thing is amazing. Its to windy to show any real smooth flying, but I flew and had a blast:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVJnkf4v-I4

Rctintin
5th March 2017, 07:04 PM
We need a new video Harvard :cool:

Rctintin
5th March 2017, 07:35 PM
Harvard, it looks like you have a 5.8 aerial on your Fatshark goggles. Do you use a 1.3 ground station, and then transmit that video signal in 5.8 to your goggles? If so, I'd like to see what you use for your ground station.

Cheers Rob

Håvard Støre
5th March 2017, 07:41 PM
Harvard, it looks like you have a 5.8 aerial on your Fatshark goggles. Do you use a 1.3 ground station, and then transmit that video signal in 5.8 to your goggles? If so, I'd like to see what you use for your ground station.

Cheers Rob
Sure bro:-) Lots of wind and rain these days, but maybe I will go flying soon despite of that. Bet the weather in the UK is bad too.

Håvard Støre
5th March 2017, 07:49 PM
Harvard, it looks like you have a 5.8 aerial on your Fatshark goggles. Do you use a 1.3 ground station, and then transmit that video signal in 5.8 to your goggles? If so, I'd like to see what you use for your ground station.

Cheers Rob
Yes. I use a repeater. You can see my ground station here. Its a Pepperbox and Omni with eagle eyes diversity. For long range I only use the Pepperbox. For short range I use diversity. The signal from eagle eyes goes to a fatshark 5.8 25mw repeater with a rubber ducky, and I use a rubber ducky on my goggles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaKviXoKsO8

Rctintin
5th March 2017, 08:09 PM
Wow, that was some distance you covered in that flight!!
1.3 is new to me, so going to get the Singularity vtx aerials for the wings, with same ground station as yours. I use eagle eyes now on 2.4, but wanted to move on from 2.4 for a while now, 1.3 is much better.
Yes, the UK weather is not so good just now, lots i
of wind,rain and generally unsettled weather.

Håvard Støre
5th March 2017, 08:18 PM
Yeah. Our weather is similar.
1.3 rocks. You can fly lower and further. Funny thing is that us 1.3 guys tend to fly 1.3 on all our planes, both great and small. You get used to the penetration and range and don't want to fly without it. Its important with a good LRS though.

Rctintin
6th March 2017, 03:20 AM
I have EzUHF for my LRS, but concerned now as its been mentioned a few times on here that its not that good?

Not sure if to sell it all and go DL V3, but is the Immersion RC gear that bad? Or just a Spektrum/Futaba thing where as each owner will say theirs is better than the other?

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 08:46 AM
The EzUHF is very clean as it dont disturb the 1,3 video. Its range/penetration is however considerably lower than Dragonlink. For use on your HC44 specifically I bet the EZUHF is plenty good. If you want to upgrade I can totally recommend Dragonlink V3.

maktek
6th March 2017, 10:07 AM
If i was only looking to go a max of 5 miles would EZuhf work well. I am seriously considering moving from 2.4 and 5.8 to 433 and 1.2 also. This will be my next investment into the hobby.

Hoss
6th March 2017, 10:45 AM
Yeah, within 5 miles you wouldn't necessarily need something like dragon link, which can go about 50 - 60 or more in good conditions. But, I can't speak to the reliability of ez as I've never used it. I started with dragon link years ago and actually am still using the same system. I'll upgrade to v3 one day, but I have had 0 issues with it. You can get some v2 systems relatively cheap in the classifieds of rcg and maybe even here. V2 would last you indefinitely until you wanted to get nuts with what v3 offers, if ever.

You really can't beat 433 / 1.3. It gives you a freedom that once tasted can never be forgotten. 2.4 video can be very good too with the right antennas, though it's certainly not as robust as 1.3 and is prone to interference depending on your flight location and its relative noise floor.

2.4 is for los and mini quads / 5.8 ;)

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 10:48 AM
If i was only looking to go a max of 5 miles would EZuhf work well. I am seriously considering moving from 2.4 and 5.8 to 433 and 1.2 also. This will be my next investment into the hobby.

EZuhf will easily get you beyond 5 miles. However with long range and low altitude behind objects the EZuhf may go into failsafe before you loose video.

maktek
6th March 2017, 11:33 AM
I just missed a V2 Dragon link on rcg's for 150 with 3 receivers. I will keep an eye out for it. I am tired of the zero penetration of 5.8.

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 11:49 AM
I am tired of the zero penetration of 5.8.
Flying 1,3 changes everything about which lines you can fly. You will never go back.

Hoss
6th March 2017, 12:01 PM
Ever.

Rctintin
6th March 2017, 12:35 PM
Nice one, thanks fellas. I see that the TBS guys use EzUHF, and they have done a lot of LR flying, but it seems most of it is in what i call low radio interference areas, like Swiss mountains etc.

Think i may pull my EZUHF off my Z2 and Capri, sell it on and buy V3 DL kit. No need to ever change again then. That's why I bought my Futaba 18MZ for my big gliders and planks, it's bullet proof.

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 04:25 PM
The DL3 is great. Full telemetry and lots of stuff, but you don`t have to use any of the advanced features if you don't want to.

Rctintin
6th March 2017, 04:33 PM
I'm not sure that I'd use the Telemetry, as I'll have a Vector on it. What extra can I get that the vector is already overloading me with? So long as I have RSSI, volts,milliamps used etc, not sure there's anything else I need?

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 05:50 PM
I'm not sure that I'd use the Telemetry, as I'll have a Vector on it. What extra can I get that the vector is already overloading me with? So long as I have RSSI, volts,milliamps used etc, not sure there's anything else I need?
You don't need to learn about the techie stuff unless you want to. I just use mine as a normal LRS and know very little about its advanced capabilities.

Rctintin
6th March 2017, 07:49 PM
https://youtu.be/dNJzDeYqCSM

food for thought!! Seems the EzUHF does ok.

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 07:55 PM
https://youtu.be/dNJzDeYqCSM

food for thought!! Seems the EzUHF does ok.
In Jun 10 2013 it did great.

Rctintin
6th March 2017, 08:15 PM
In Jun 10 2013 it did great.


Lol, just seen that while reading the comments. I'd like to see the DLV3 v EzUHF with the latest firmware tested against each other.

Håvard Støre
6th March 2017, 08:21 PM
Lol, just seen that while reading the comments. I'd like to see the DLV3 v EzUHF with the latest firmware tested against each other.
No one will bother to compare them. They are different generations. I am not trashing the EZ. Its a well liked solid system. Its range just falls a bit short compared to some other systems. If I had to choose between the DL2 with old firmware and the EZ, I would choose the EZ.

Hoss
6th March 2017, 09:29 PM
https://youtu.be/dNJzDeYqCSM

food for thought!! Seems the EzUHF does ok.
Just FYI - that is 4 years old. Lots has happened since then. That's more than double the lifespan of mainstream FPV. The Sherer system isn't as bad as they make it out to be, and the issues they discover with dragon have long been resolved. Ez UHF is a fine option - it's not the best, and not without its pretty widely reported issues in certain situations, but there are others that have many, many less complaints and complications.

Kreskin
6th March 2017, 10:25 PM
I have had the aluminum box ez for a couple of years with the 4 channel receivers on my planes and quads. I use 2.4 for video and I'm in a fairly rural area so I think any system would work well. I have been out 11 miles on low power with lots left but not enough battery. In the last while I've the seen the aluminum box at dealers for 65$. The four channel receivers are around 40$. As far as support, I think Dragon link is better and if you are setting up for long range, EZ can make it tough to make your rig quiet enough and I understand DL is less sensitive to the 433 type noise. I am not interested in bells and whistles and you can see that some guys are doing more posting than flying trying to keep up with the updates and all the features they can get.

Hoss
6th March 2017, 11:00 PM
I'm the same way - don't care about bells and whistles really at all. I strictly use my system as a transmit / receive - done type system. It's just a transmitter and receiver... I do nothing more than that with it, nor do I want or need to. I'm not dissing the advanced features - if I had a rig that I could use them in then I'd be all for it, but using vector I get just about everything I need for what I do, and I don't have to worry about my control link, ever.

Rctintin
7th March 2017, 04:49 AM
What you've just said Hoss is spot on for me. People said I must be made of money when I bought my Futaba 18MZ, and that a basic DX8 could do all the same stuff, but I know when I throw a £2K ($2.5K) glider off the side of a hill, I'll not loose radio link with its carbon fus.

With the UHF, it seems the EzUHF has stood still and DL have pushed along way forward. Looks like I'll get the DL V3 just for the piece of mind, because in a few months time, I'll retire the battered Z2 and buy a daddy Drak.

Im not interested in its Telemetry features, because I'll have the Vector for that.

Hoss
7th March 2017, 04:57 AM
It's a good move. The features, while you won't use them with the vector installs, can certainly come in handy with planes you eventually build that you don't put a vector in. Plus, dragon will continue to come out with new features and integrations and upgrades to the system. It's a move that I'm going to make from v2 sometime soon. I'm easy behind on the features as of late, but I know it also includes a beacon for recovery amongst many other things that can be very handy. The threads are just so damn big that it's hard to grasp all that it's capable of without having to sift through tons of conversation that doesn't expand your understanding. If anyone knows of a good source for v3 info that is slightly thinner than the billion page base threads, please link it up. Dragon is super solid though - surely won't disappoint.

Rctintin
7th March 2017, 06:04 AM
It sure looks good, and I'd also love to read a 'condensed' review of the V3 DL. The Beacon really sounds good as well.

Do they do a 'smaller' Rx, like a 4ch, because the big one looks a chunk in a 30" wing! That's what I like about the EzUHF Lite Rx. Perhaps DL have one in the making?

Hoss
7th March 2017, 08:49 AM
It sure looks good, and I'd also love to read a 'condensed' review of the V3 DL. The Beacon really sounds good as well.

Do they do a 'smaller' Rx, like a 4ch, because the big one looks a chunk in a 30" wing! That's what I like about the EzUHF Lite Rx. Perhaps DL have one in the making?
Yeah, they make the copter receiver (I think it's called that). It's a tiny board with 2 loose wires coming off it.

http://www.fpvpro.com/store/copter-receiver

Rctintin
7th March 2017, 07:36 PM
Just spent a few hrs reading about the V3 DL. Fair play, they have built a very capable unit, with lots more to come. Not so sure that the 'micro' receiver will be 'full range' with its inbuilt aerial, else why would we need a Dipole on the normal Rx. But 50Km range, and auto power setting to come soon, that's impressive stuff.

The telemetry also also looks awesome for non FPV use. I have a 3m glider, and that can easily fly to a dot in the sky. Now on my 18MZ I have telemetry, but the DLV3 can use an iPad/Android etc screen attached to your Tx, with Bluetooth link to the UHF, and have lots of info all on the screen similar to what we use in FPV.

Very cool stuff!

Håvard Støre
7th March 2017, 07:47 PM
Well. You probably know more about the V3 than me by now. I just use it, and trust it. The auto power feature seems rad (not sure if its operational yet). Placing a uhf antenna on a really small plane can be a tad challenging, but I agree that the micro cant possibly have the same range as the normal receiver with a DL dipole.

Kreskin
7th March 2017, 08:17 PM
The V3 also comes in the new slim model. If you like slim models.

Håvard Støre
7th March 2017, 08:19 PM
Hmmmpf:o

maktek
8th March 2017, 06:42 AM
Guess i am going to have to sell some more LOS planes so i can purchase a DL v3. It sounds pretty future proof.

maktek
8th March 2017, 10:37 AM
Question about the Cobra 2217 motor. Do you guys cut down the shaft that extends out the tail of the motor.

Hoss
8th March 2017, 10:50 AM
Question about the Cobra 2217 motor. Do you guys cut down the shaft that extends out the tail of the motor.
I don't, but you can certainly if you want to mount the motor one hole further forward (check what your cg wants before deciding). Don't know if you've done it before, and you may certainly already know this, but just in case: if you're going to cut the shaft off, you need to be careful that you don't get metal shavings inside the motor. They will immediately try to get in and stick to the magnets and can rip up or even seize the motor. What I do is cover the motor in masking tape, then poke a small hole in a zip lock bag and push the shaft through that so that it's covered by the bag for the majority of the fragments and protected by the tape for any that find their way in through the hole.

maktek
8th March 2017, 03:59 PM
If i melt a small hole into the EPP into the back so the shaft can move freely that should work. I really don't want to cut the shaft. The dremel too i have sucks and doesn't cut well. If i ever had to to cut it i really like your method Hoss.

Håvard Støre
8th March 2017, 04:46 PM
If i melt a small hole into the EPP into the back so the shaft can move freely that should work. I really don't want to cut the shaft. The dremel too i have sucks and doesn't cut well. If i ever had to to cut it i really like your method Hoss.
Sorry. The shaft will hit the large alu plate.

maktek
8th March 2017, 05:37 PM
Sorry. The shaft will hit the large alu plate.


Yes good point thanks for thinking of that. I will have to wait and see how my CG is as to whether i have to cut it or not. CG is 7 3/4" from the nose correct?

Hoss
8th March 2017, 05:59 PM
I'm not sure if the newer motor mounts are different, but on mine the 2217 fits with shaft in the last 2 holes. I could move it up one hole set if I were to cut it.

Håvard Støre
8th March 2017, 06:04 PM
If you have to cut, just cut. If not, don't cut.:rolleyes:

Håvard Støre
12th March 2017, 03:20 PM
Soooo... Today I installed a Singularity antenna. I am very pleased about how clean the install was. Just hope it performs. Check it out:
76248

Can hardly see the outline:
76249

The antenna would be harder to hide if I had used paint.

Hoss
12th March 2017, 03:24 PM
Wow, super clean. That's amazing... It should perform like you hope - that's the overall consensus of all that have tried it. I was contemplating using a dipole on the 44 (I started working on it again the other night) but might bury a singularity if I can get another one in a few days.

Håvard Støre
12th March 2017, 03:42 PM
Thanks:-) I have always found the traditional 1,3 ghz christmas tree bothersome. This changes all that.

Rctintin
12th March 2017, 06:32 PM
Thanks to Scott using one on his Mini Drak, and giving it a great review, I just ordered a few days ago 4 of them direct from Hugo at TrueRC in Canada.

Rctintin
12th March 2017, 06:37 PM
Harvard, that second pic is so cool, I cannot even see the aerial!! Is it under where it's sat in the first picture? If so, awesome job mate

Hoss
12th March 2017, 06:40 PM
I just picked one up from getfpv for the 44. Can't wait to finish this thing. Should arrive around the time my servos do. Then it's off to the races.

scotth72
12th March 2017, 08:07 PM
A note on the singularity. It does NOT like to be next to a carbon fiber/metal pushrod. I had to change one on my Anubis to fiberglass. On my HC44, I made sure I had as much separation from the pushrod as possible. (I got about 3.5"). I am very happy with this antenna. I have gone out over 2 miles right on the deck on 200mw, and 4+ at altitude. No breakups or fuzz at these distances, but turns do get some static. Cpatch on the ground.

Hoss
12th March 2017, 10:01 PM
A note on the singularity. It does NOT like to be next to a carbon fiber/metal pushrod. I had to change one on my Anubis to fiberglass. On my HC44, I made sure I had as much separation from the pushrod as possible. (I got about 3.5"). I am very happy with this antenna. I have gone out over 2 miles right on the deck on 200mw, and 4+ at altitude. No breakups or fuzz at these distances, but turns do get some static. Cpatch on the ground.


Were you touching the carbon in the original installation? Carbon fiber is conducive and can be a real b!tch with lots of things. I know the pvc that it's encased in is certainly involved in its tuning. If you were to butt it up against a conducive material, I could see it causing issues. I can see not too close (touching), but even within proximity? That's tougher to pin on unless you're just straight blocking a major part of your signal (which carbon can do). I have one in the mini running right next to a carbon spar and very close to some servo wires, but it seems to do well... Just trying to figure out its true limitations and pin down the exact issue. Was it touching in yours? Thanks man.

Hoss
12th March 2017, 11:31 PM
Soooo... Today I installed a Singularity antenna. I am very pleased about how clean the install was. Just hope it performs. Check it out:
76248

Can hardly see the outline:
76249

The antenna would be harder to hide if I had used paint.
Hey Havard, where did you stick your vtx? Is it in the back bay? Is your control receiver also in there? Your ESC is in the front bay, correct? Thanks.

Håvard Støre
13th March 2017, 05:39 AM
Hey Havard, where did you stick your vtx? Is it in the back bay? Is your control receiver also in there? Your ESC is in the front bay, correct? Thanks.
Yes. Esc in front bay. VTX and DL receiver in back bay just a couple of inches apart. I was afraid of becoming tail heavy, so I overcompensated and had to hang the motor out the back quite a bit to get a perfect balance.

scotth72
13th March 2017, 10:23 AM
Were you touching the carbon in the original installation? Carbon fiber is conducive and can be a real b!tch with lots of things. I know the pvc that it's encased in is certainly involved in its tuning. If you were to butt it up against a conducive material, I could see it causing issues. I can see not too close (touching), but even within proximity? That's tougher to pin on unless you're just straight blocking a major part of your signal (which carbon can do). I have one in the mini running right next to a carbon spar and very close to some servo wires, but it seems to do well... Just trying to figure out its true limitations and pin down the exact issue. Was it touching in yours? Thanks man.

No, the metal pushrod was right over the edge of the antenna, about 10mm above. It definitely disrupted the radiation pattern, and I got horrible multipathing off a rock wall 1.5 miles out. I have flown the same place plenty of times, with both linear and cp antennas, and not had the level of signal break up as this. When I changed the pushrod to fiberglass, all was well. I also noticed a lot of interference at certain angles of the aircraft in open air. I think that because the signal is coming from such a small area, you need to be careful to keep it clear of obstacles so the signal can propagate. Clovers cover a larger area, so that a small pushrod does little to disrupt the signal. Just a guess.

Hoss
13th March 2017, 10:25 AM
No, the metal pushrod was right over the edge of the antenna, about 10mm above. It definitely disrupted the radiation pattern, and I got horrible multipathing off a rock wall 1.5 miles out. I have flown the same place plenty of times, with both linear and cp antennas, and not had the level of signal break up as this. When I changed the pushrod to fiberglass, all was well. I also noticed a lot of interference at certain angles of the aircraft in open air. I think that because the signal is coming from such a small area, you need to be careful to keep it clear of obstacles so the signal can propagate. Clovers cover a larger area, so that a small pushrod does little to disrupt the signal. Just a guess.
Sounds like a good guess though...

scotth72
13th March 2017, 10:29 AM
As for balancing, I am running the SS motor as far forward as possible. YEP 60a esc in back bay. Naze32, mwosd and pdb in back bay. Corona ds-236mg servos. Vtx and rx embedded in wing 10mm behind CG. Singularity in the crook where spars meet. Gens-ace 4s 3300 in front of front bay. Runcam2 embedded in front of wing with runcam mount. Balanced perfectly with no additional weight. I do have a thick piece of plastic glued to my lower central skid to help with Az landings.

maktek
13th March 2017, 11:17 AM
Mine is done. Now i just need to wait for some better weather to maiden. Until i can find a used Dragon Link for a good price i will be using 2.4 control and 5.8 video.

76263

Hoss
13th March 2017, 11:29 AM
Looking damn sharp!

maktek
13th March 2017, 11:45 AM
Thanks. You have me a little scared about the servos. I went with the Hitec HS-82MG. I hope they are strong enough to handle this beast. This plane is in a whole new category than i am used to flying. Right now my fastest plane is a VAS Banshee.

Håvard Støre
13th March 2017, 11:47 AM
VERY NICE BIRD, BRO! YES, I AM ACTUALLY YELLING! SORRY. Damn that was loud.

Håvard Støre
13th March 2017, 11:49 AM
Thanks. You have me a little scared about the servos. I went with the Hitec HS-82MG. I hope they are strong enough to handle this beast. This plane is in a whole new category than i am used to flying. Right now my fastest plane is a VAS Banshee.
Me to. They are plenty strong, but sloppy as hell. I wont ever buy them again.

BrownEyedFool
13th March 2017, 11:56 AM
Purty plane maktek. Needs LEDs :)

maktek
13th March 2017, 01:48 PM
Thank you for the nice comments. I will fly with the Hitecs for now but i will probably change in the future.

maktek
13th March 2017, 01:54 PM
Purty plane maktek. Needs LEDs :)

I only plan to fly it FPV and I wouldn't be able to see them so no need for them.

billyd
13th March 2017, 02:47 PM
Mine is done. Now i just need to wait for some better weather to maiden. Until i can find a used Dragon Link for a good price i will be using 2.4 control and 5.8 video.

76263

Nice job! I like the quad you attached to the tail fins. An unexpected add on! :rolleyes:

maktek
13th March 2017, 02:49 PM
Nice job! I like the quad you attached to the tail fins. An unexpected add on! :rolleyes:

Thats just in case the Cobra 2217 isn't enough.

billyd
13th March 2017, 03:00 PM
Thats just in case the Cobra 2217 isn't enough.

lol maw powah!

Rctintin
13th March 2017, 07:36 PM
Great advise on the placement of the Singularity, cheers guys

binarythrottle
14th March 2017, 11:43 AM
Thanks Håvard Støre your vids gave me the balls to build this beast. I have built about 30 quads but I am new to wings.

762727627376274

maktek
14th March 2017, 12:54 PM
Thanks Håvard Støre your vids gave me the balls to build this beast. I have built about 30 quads but I am new to wings.

762727627376274

Looks good so far.

maktek
14th March 2017, 01:02 PM
Well this is going to delay the Spring flying season and the maiden of my HC 44.

76276

Håvard Støre
16th March 2017, 09:14 AM
Thanks Håvard Støre your vids gave me the balls to build this beast. I have built about 30 quads but I am new to wings.

762727627376274
That makes me glad to hear:-) Your plane looks good. Like the antenna install.

I am not ready to start a HC30 build thread just yet. Still pondering about what drivetrain to use. For anyone else interested, here are the specs of the official spec wing motor:
76310

BrownEyedFool
20th March 2017, 06:23 AM
Hmm my CA has been sitting too long, going to restock. 2oz thick should be plenty? CK uses the 16oz but I'd likely ending up with most of it going bad.

maktek
20th March 2017, 06:52 AM
Hmm my CA has been sitting too long, going to restock. 2oz thick should be plenty? CK uses the 16oz but I'd likely ending up with most of it going bad.

That should be plenty i used a half oz building my 44.

Rctintin
20th March 2017, 11:03 AM
Look what just just showed up at my house, and even managed to slip through customs unnoticed!! Thanks Hugo

76386

scotth72
20th March 2017, 02:59 PM
Sweet!

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 03:35 PM
Indeed! I am less greedy than Tintin, so I only bought three.

Rctintin
20th March 2017, 04:50 PM
I've been put off 1.3 for years because of the size of the Bluebeams, but these have changed all that now.

So my 2.4 gear is going to get sold on, and 1.3Vtx's to be bought.

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 06:57 PM
You will enjoy 1.3:cool:

Håvard Støre
26th March 2017, 07:32 AM
Thumb screws for all Ritewing aircraft:
76468

Download thumb screws here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/Havardsa/designs

Hoss
26th March 2017, 12:35 PM
Thumb screws for all Ritewing aircraft:
76468

Download thumb screws here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/Havardsa/designs
Confirmed that these fit perfectly. I shouldn't be, but I am surprised that we can just print stuff like this. This is actually less amazing than printing a photo or something... Surprised this didn't come out first actually. But, exciting times...

Håvard Støre
26th March 2017, 07:35 PM
I`ll take your brain to another dimension. .... . . Pay close attention!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qMT0BG8g7Q

Vanblade
27th June 2017, 05:50 PM
Well give a great thread and awesome build vids, thanks Harvard as always I've ordered a HC44, hopefully kick start the build as soon as it arrives. Will be trying out the additional extras of course. Looking forward �� Van

Håvard Støre
27th June 2017, 06:28 PM
Good luck on your build Van:-) Please post pictures here.

A video from my HC31 build showing how I install the singularity antenna. It may be useful for the HC44, as well as on any other wing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mi03TEwDDJI

claytonbakerjr
9th April 2018, 02:32 PM
@Havard
Thanks for your time in making these videos.
Seem the threads on the 44 have kind of died down but I
am about to order a HC44 from Chris soon and look forward
to getting her built and flying.
Along with your videos and Chris's I am sure the combination
of both of you will allow me to produce a great machine :)

ritewing
9th April 2018, 02:35 PM
@Havard
Thanks for your time in making these videos.
Seem the threads on the 44 have kind of died down but I
am about to order a HC44 from Chris soon and look forward
to getting her built and flying.
Along with your videos and Chris's I am sure the combination
of both of you will allow me to produce a great machine :)We also have a build thread if you go down lower into the RW vendor forum

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

claytonbakerjr
9th April 2018, 02:40 PM
We also have a build thread if you go down lower into the RW vendor forum

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Yes I seen one started by GoBigDale (I believe) I have been reviewing as well :)

Håvard Støre
9th April 2018, 02:47 PM
This video shows the CA, 3M90 and goop method for assembling the HC planes. The way these materials work together with the EPP and laminate is amazing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X5feBJnVHo

ritewing
16th April 2018, 05:36 PM
Great vid bro!

Håvard Støre
16th April 2018, 06:15 PM
Thanks:-) I tried to follow your recommendations to the letter.