PDA

View Full Version : Moulded Ritewing Mini Drak Build & Info



Pages : [1] 2

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 12:41 PM
Making the build video. Stay tuned.


Elevon Template:

76439

CG is located 5/8" in front of main spar cap measure from the front of the cap, not the center. Elevon measurements by pictureshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/af87c0623810819f4feca593b75ff4b2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/81cae44297bca48f9e842177c3cb1672.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/445d033673a6d42c58d43b426daf7958.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/e3b2ec13f9edc0a01ef6324f41ed6e05.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/3bfbf69901053c3e9f73c2903e95bd30.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/db945fb4cd1b707899f98c6759ceb0fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/acb41653c287c6c4fa0b25c5c88c011c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/27ac00764c074d7316bece580dde528a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/eb0ee7863d1246e8b6494a5242942ee2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/aea60a3dfd77334dfc9b99242866502d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/519431f8b9c85503ccbe2b24a985892d.jpg

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 12:42 PM
Here is the first video. There are a few mishaps that I can't fix because whats done is done, but when installing the fuse spars, embed them first, than add CA. Once the fuse has been aligned properly, add the kicker to lock them in. There is a chance you could distort the fuselage otherwise.


https://youtu.be/i-hom_wbPLI

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 12:42 PM
Reserved for equipment installation.

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 12:43 PM
Reserved for painting/covering video.

Hoss
23rd January 2017, 01:18 PM
Subby sub sub

JonU
23rd January 2017, 02:03 PM
Better late than never! :p

I figured it might take a few days before seeing this pop up. Looking forward to the video. Do you think it'll be up later today?

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 02:06 PM
Better late than never! :p

I figured it might take a few days before seeing this pop up. Looking forward to the video. Do you think it'll be up later today?

Possibly, I still need to make my elevons and attach them. I think that is it for the basic build video. I am splitting things up into 3 different vids. Basic build, equipment installation, and painting/covering/finishing. Shooting to have all of those done by the end of the week because we have some dry weather coming and I don't want to miss the opportunity to get it in the air.

PabloJaime
23rd January 2017, 02:34 PM
Subbe dubbed :)

Hoss
23rd January 2017, 03:36 PM
There's no need to cover this thing in glass. The epp this is made from is ridiculously strong on its own, and if built correctly, it's nearly indestructible. Regular paint won't stick and will flake off - Plasti dip is the go-to paint for this foam and sticks well.

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 03:52 PM
Do not fiberglass this plane, there is no need and the added weight is not worth it. I am seriously considering doing very little in the way of covering on this one. some well placed laminate film and that is it.

Plastidip is great and is quite durable. you could get away with plastidip and some laminate on the bottom and wing leading edges.

Håvard Støre
23rd January 2017, 04:12 PM
Subbed;) You make excellent build threads Dale, and now a build video! I'm excited!

Shifteer
23rd January 2017, 04:37 PM
High praise from the builder of the world's soon to be fastest FPV plane! :)

gobigdale
23rd January 2017, 04:50 PM
Subbed;) You make excellent build threads Dale, and now a build video! I'm excited!

Thanks man! Pushing it out to youtube now, will let Chris review it for accuracy, then post it up on the first page. I keep looking at it thinking I need to spice it up somehow... Not sure what that means exactly. Maybe building in my underwear... That's Spicy. :)

PDXDave
23rd January 2017, 05:25 PM
Thanks man! Pushing it out to youtube now, will let Chris review it for accuracy, then post it up on the first page. I keep looking at it thinking I need to spice it up somehow... Not sure what that means exactly. Maybe building in my underwear... That's Spicy. :)

Tryin' to eat lunch over here!

ritewing
24th January 2017, 01:19 AM
Please dont glass this plane, you will completely negate the whole reason we use an expensive epp mold and material. The glass wont stick well to this type of foam either
I'll be looking forward to seeing how you painted/covered it. I've been trying to figure out what I would like to do when mine arrives. This will be a first for me since I've never really covered or painted a foam plane before. I've been leaning towards assembling the wing and making it permanently one piece and glassing it like this guy does with his fuselage. I figure 2 layers with the layers oriented 90* from each other will be plenty. I found some fiberglass cloth that weighs 2oz per square yard so if I don't slather on a ton of the epoxy, I think the weight gain won't be too extreme. Then once it is all cured I'll use a vinyl wrap for color.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5-wn7kUfSc

Hoss
24th January 2017, 02:19 AM
Thanks man! Pushing it out to youtube now, will let Chris review it for accuracy, then post it up on the first page. I keep looking at it thinking I need to spice it up somehow... Not sure what that means exactly. Maybe building in my underwear... That's Spicy. :)
If you want to spice it up, Havard and I can put together one of our shirtless break dancing videos that we make together. You can add it to the intro.

Håvard Støre
24th January 2017, 08:03 AM
If you want to spice it up, Havard and I can put together one of our shirtless break dancing videos that we make together. You can add it to the intro.
Finally I can wear my Fatshark underwear.

gobigdale
24th January 2017, 11:02 AM
If you want to spice it up, Havard and I can put together one of our shirtless break dancing videos that we make together. You can add it to the intro.

How have I not seen these yet?!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

gobigdale
24th January 2017, 11:25 AM
First video is on post #2.

LVSloper
24th January 2017, 12:12 PM
Sub just for the hell of it. ;)

Hally1983
25th January 2017, 10:00 AM
Looking forward to seeing how you mount the camera & fpv cam. Im still struggling to work out if i could mount gopro (Possibly a session) & fpvcam to one. I know the runcam 2 will work but im not really a fan of it and wouldn't use it for an fpv feed either.

Was there a suggestion you could also mount a gopro in the belly for downwards facing shots? As well as one on the front? Or would that screw the CoG too much?

Cheers and keep up the good work :)

Hoss
25th January 2017, 10:11 AM
Looking forward to seeing how you mount the camera & fpv cam. Im still struggling to work out if i could mount gopro (Possibly a session) & fpvcam to one. I know the runcam 2 will work but im not really a fan of it and wouldn't use it for an fpv feed either.

Was there a suggestion you could also mount a gopro in the belly for downwards facing shots? As well as one on the front? Or would that screw the CoG too much?

Cheers and keep up the good work :)
I'll let Dale tell you about his camera mounting, as that's who you asked, but just wanted to touch on the downward facing cams - the Drak (and the mini drak) are both truly mapping platforms that cross over into FPV very well. You can easily fit a GoPro or one of the newer (and much smaller) mapping cameras in the belly. There's actually a spot strictly for it, as that's what it was designed around. So no, not only will you not be throwing off cg, but you'd actually be using the plane for its intended purpose.

If anyone is dying to throw a GoPro on something (nose), it's me. I get yelled at a lot for it, but you really just can't beat it. For the mini though, if you're willing to sacrifice the really nice flight characteristics, you can certainly do it. I could mount one very easily on the nose of this thing I'm going to hold back though and build it to fly - I've got much bigger (better able to handle wind and get very steady shots) planes that all carry GoPro's, so this baby will stay pure and I'll just have to settle for the runcam 2 and a separate flight cam.

JonU
25th January 2017, 08:07 PM
I've got a question for Dale, Hoss, or Chris. I know there is the potential for mounting a downward facing camera, which is great for doing mapping type stuff. What I was wondering is whether or not any of you think it would be possible to have a sidefacing camera? My thought was to have one facing out the side with a bit of a downward angle (~10*) and perpendicular to the flight path. My thinking is that it would be a good way to set it up if a SAR team was to use one. My thought is that the pilot would be able to orbit an area and have the display from the side cam going to a display for a second person to view. Just a thought I had earlier today. I just wasn't sure if it would even be possible with the spars going nose to tail.

Hoss
25th January 2017, 08:15 PM
For sure - you could cut a port in the bottom at the correct angle and have the cam in the actual fuse, embedded deep and at the correct angle wherever you'd like. The fuse spars are on the outside of the main bay, so they shouldn't get in the way. Maybe I'm not understanding correctly, but I wouldn't see that as a problem. Maybe a cheesy quick sketch would help conceptualize it for everyone...

JonU
25th January 2017, 10:36 PM
I can get a quick sketch I made earlier. I'll put it over in the mini drak thread though; don't want to take away from Dale's thread anymore than I may already have done.

Eric Claburn
10th February 2017, 12:21 AM
What degree should the fpv camera be mounted

Håvard Støre
11th February 2017, 08:36 PM
What degree should the fpv camera be mounted
Its a matter of preference. For aerobatic flying the cameras should be tilted just a tad downwards. Straight ahead is always wrong btw.. For cruising it should be more significantly downwards. Sorry, but we are not talking in numbers here. Take a look at post 41 in this thread. Its an intermediate down tilt in my opinion, and something I would aim for:
http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?50711-Ritewing-Mini-Drak-Build-and-Info/page5

Eric Claburn
11th February 2017, 10:28 PM
Thanks

ritewing
14th March 2017, 03:55 PM
Get your builds on guys!

Eric Claburn
14th March 2017, 04:04 PM
Thanks Chris you did an amazing job designing these planes keep up the great work . I just got a built hc44 Saturday and received the mini draks yesterday can't wait to get them in the air. Is there a certain prop that you recommend that works on both planes? I was thinking that a 6x4 or 6x6 cam speed prop may work.

ritewing
14th March 2017, 04:47 PM
My motor 2814 1700 on 4s and a 7/5 apc.

Or my motor on BL heli 60 amp esc on 5s and a 6/5

ritewing
14th March 2017, 04:54 PM
I also bought a bunch of these batteries that fit really good in the 44 and in the hardcore 38 and we're specifically bought for the mini Drak. Let me know guys if you need any. 76281

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Eric Claburn
14th March 2017, 04:56 PM
I'm interested how much I'd like 4

Hmerly
14th March 2017, 05:16 PM
Its a really quick build. Most of the time is spent waiting for glue to cure. Here's one short night's work so far.

http://i.imgur.com/XOcsNjql.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nTJRGOYl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TZhNN9rl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/k25PGOwl.jpg




Get your builds on guys!

ritewing
14th March 2017, 05:19 PM
Nice

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

ritewing
14th March 2017, 06:41 PM
I'm interested how much I'd like 4 Email me eric, ritewing@hotmail.com

BrownEyedFool
15th March 2017, 11:10 AM
Found a couple of 60A emax simon series ESCs in the bin, they list as 2s-6s, should handle 4s and 7x5 with the 1700kv Cobra. Or a Plush 60a, found two of those too

Tracking shows mine arrived in state at 2:30 this morning, getting closer.

ritewing
15th March 2017, 03:15 PM
Simon k wont do it, and it will need to be 5s and a 6x4 6.5 and BL heli 60 to handle the comutation of over 200 k. 6s will just chirp due to commutation limit of the esc. 7/5 will most likely smoke the motor if you go over 4s.
Found a couple of 60A emax simon series ESCs in the bin, they list as 2s-6s, should handle 4s and 7x5 with the 1700kv Cobra. Or a Plush 60a, found two of those too

Tracking shows mine arrived in state at 2:30 this morning, getting closer.

fencepostit
15th March 2017, 03:58 PM
Brown Santa has delivered!
76298

BrownEyedFool
15th March 2017, 06:33 PM
Confused. Planning 4s3000 or 4000. Apc 7x5 or 7x4. Cobra 1700kv.
Thought any of those escs would do the job. Starting with a light los build moving into heavier as I add fpv gear.

ritewing
15th March 2017, 06:47 PM
4s yes, on 5s or 6s you need BL heli type so it can keep up with the comutation. And if you go 5S or 6s you will need to go smaller on the propeller otherwise you're flying a propeller rather than your airplane

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

BrownEyedFool
15th March 2017, 07:35 PM
Gotcha. Hadn't planned going above 4s, just noted a couple of those escs claimed to be able to
handle up to 6s. But to go to those voltage levels the prop specs would have to come way way down. And you won't get good results flying something this size on a 4.75 x4.75 prop

Hoss
15th March 2017, 07:40 PM
60A ESC, 4s, 7x5 prop = all good. I'm going to, although it will be less efficient, also try a 7x6 & possibly 7x7. They should rip. They'll certainly require some throttle management, but the ecalc speeds on them are sick, and the airframe can very much, most certainly handle it. It's so freaking slick and there's almost no drag... It'll easily do 120 without blinking...

fencepostit
15th March 2017, 08:05 PM
What kind of speeds should we expect with 4s, 7x5prop? Like BrownEyedFool I'm planning on keeping it light initially and then add fpv later on.

Hoss
16th March 2017, 02:37 AM
85mph flat and level with a 7x5. 95 with a 7x6, but you lose efficiency, and 105 with a 7x7, but you need to watch your foot or you'll burn it up. No sustained burns - just short bursts. **This is based off of ecalc readings and paired with my experience with the flying it with the 7x5 - I have not flown it with anything other than the 7x5 so far.** But, the 7x5 comes out right on the money in ecalc just as it did in the sky. I'll be trying both of the pitcher props in person and will report back on real world results. It's so damn slick though and has such low drag that I don't see things going any differently than I expect. The 7x8 I ran through comes out reliably at around 115, but you start to run a real risk of over taxing the motor quickly.

But, for safe, reliable and efficient flight, the 7x5 is the shizzle.

dmpriso
16th March 2017, 02:57 AM
I'm planning to use a slower setup, a motor with 1100kv on 4S and a 9x7 prop. Targets for easy launching, good climb rates and low noise level, since I'm doing flights in the Alps:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xOff-4elcY

Straight line speed is secondary, I'm making velocity when diving :)

My Mini Drak arrived yesterday, can't wait for the build this evening!

billyd
16th March 2017, 10:44 AM
gobigdale, why not just cut the motor mount along the top slots (they look like a perforation for this exact reason). This way it doesn't break into that compartment, and clears the holes.

ps the 2mm lam is a separate item as are the motor/esc combo, servo rods and servos. Maybe you said that in the vid I didn't notice it.

ritewing
16th March 2017, 11:38 AM
You can snap off the front end of the plate if you want. Or trim off the corner edges so the threaded hubs clear the snap off point . And keep in mind if you go with really large props on such small wingspan when you really get into the power you might be feeling like you are flying your propeller rather than the aircraft. At this point at take off you might have torque roll and at higher speeds you might get a little torque roll. It just depends on how much it unloads. The larger propeller might work okay for cruising but it might have a little bit issues of torque at take off and when you're in the power. Just keep that in mind. I haven't used such a big propeller on this small plane so you are are in Uncharted Territory

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

billyd
16th March 2017, 01:20 PM
The castle software always whines about pitch stalling with high pitched props. I think that means that at low airspeed (for the plane) the prop can stall. This sounds like it could cause problems during hand launch. Do I have that right? Or what is the problems you can encounter, what are they warning about. I'm always reading about people using 8x8's and the like, and I wonder why they don't care about pitch stall. Is the software just overly conservative?

Texzin
16th March 2017, 01:29 PM
I cut corners off to clear holes

crashsalot
16th March 2017, 02:08 PM
The castle software always whines about pitch stalling with high pitched props. I think that means that at low airspeed (for the plane) the prop can stall. This sounds like it could cause problems during hand launch. Do I have that right? Or what is the problems you can encounter, what are they warning about. I'm always reading about people using 8x8's and the like, and I wonder why they don't care about pitch stall. Is the software just overly conservative?
No,the prop will stall at low air speeds, but it only means that you will have more noise and less thrust at those lower air speeds. Above your fine. So it could be an issue when launching (not enough thrust). But if your out for speed there is almost no other way. Just make sure you launch well.

billyd
16th March 2017, 03:06 PM
No,the prop will stall at low air speeds, but it only means that you will have more noise and less thrust at those lower air speeds. Above your fine. So it could be an issue when launching (not enough thrust). But if your out for speed there is almost no other way. Just make sure you launch well.

Actually I am going with Chris' stock setup and the 7/5 on 4s so I was just asking out of curiosity. 85 mph is plenty fast for me. I don't have that much room to fly anyway.

Hoss
16th March 2017, 03:32 PM
Anybody have any full sized vectors they want to sell, let me know. Have 3, possibly 4 builds that need them. I need to come up with a good swap system. They do sell the swap kits with all the wiring so you can just swap components, but it's a pain. But, they're expensive... So I need to come up with some kind of swappable pod system... Having 8 or 9 vectors is just too damn much...

billyd
16th March 2017, 03:38 PM
Anybody have any full sized vectors they want to sell, let me know. Have 3, possibly 4 builds that need them. I need to come up with a good swap system. They do sell the swap kits with all the wiring so you can just swap components, but it's a pain. But, they're expensive... So I need to come up with some kind of swappable pod system... Having 8 or 9 vectors is just too damn much...

I've got a similar situation with MFD AP's. They're all over my shop in different planes and they cost $199 each. And it's a big pain to switch them so it's really not feasible to use them in multiple aircraft. I mean you could do it, but it would suck and you'd probably make a mistake somewhere along the line and rekit a plane or lose it outright.

scotth72
16th March 2017, 07:32 PM
Actually I am going with Chris' stock setup and the 7/5 on 4s so I was just asking out of curiosity. 85 mph is plenty fast for me. I don't have that much room to fly anyway.

My HC44 does over 100 with Chris' motor, 4s and a 7x5. Mini Drak should be close.

aerialvisions
16th March 2017, 08:46 PM
@gobigdale When are you posting the next build video for the MD?

Derrick
16th March 2017, 10:41 PM
@gobigdale When are you posting the next build video for the MD?

Can't figure out how to finish it without Dale's next video?

dmpriso
17th March 2017, 03:58 AM
Almost finished yesterday. Planning to add cameras during lunchbreak and maiden in the evening. Where's the COG supposed to be?

76318

zanthor
17th March 2017, 10:32 AM
Almost finished yesterday. Planning to add cameras during lunchbreak and maiden in the evening. Where's the COG supposed to be?

76318

From Johnny @ Team-Legit - " 5/8th of an inch in front of the front spar cap"

Hoss
17th March 2017, 10:40 AM
Yes - 5/8 from the forward edge of the front spar slot. I put it exactly on there and it flies wonderfully.

Hoss
17th March 2017, 10:47 AM
Almost finished yesterday. Planning to add cameras during lunchbreak and maiden in the evening. Where's the COG supposed to be?

76318
2 pieces of unsolicited information - 1 -the extreme packing tape, after a few months, is going to dry up and turn yellow. The adhesive then stays on the surface along with a layer of fiber weave. I love the stuff, but learned the hard way to stop putting it places that I wanted to keep aesthetically pleasing, or to cover it with moving and storage tape to keep it from drying out. 2 - the motor mount is backwards - though maybe your motor wouldn't fit, so you had to do that? Typically, the motor is supposed to sit inside of the pocket.

BrownEyedFool
17th March 2017, 11:10 AM
laminate over extreme packing also doesn't tend to deteriorate, the lam shields the UV from the tape.

crashsalot
17th March 2017, 11:20 AM
laminate over extreme packing also doesn't tend to deteriorate, the lam shields the UV from the tape.
you mean regular laminate? that's interesting. Here in California the extreme packing tape doesn't last 6 weeks. I love it, but cant use it for permanent things on the outside.
Or are you using the UV-filtering but expensive digikote lam?

BrownEyedFool
17th March 2017, 11:28 AM
Give it a try, this is a different vendor, but Crash Test Hobbies when you build their wings they have you make extreme tape hinges and then cover them with lam. There's nothing special about the lam they sell. I've built several the way they described and have had no issues. On one of the same planes I had an ESC come out of it's slot and get into the prop arc. When I replaced it at the field with a spare, I used a strip of extreme to hold it in place. That tape deteriorated very quickly.

dmpriso
17th March 2017, 02:29 PM
Thanks guys!

76319

Setup (almost) complete. Maiden done successfully:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxfGf6O8w2o&feature=youtu.be

I still need to add some expo, but it flies like on rails, it's a joy to fly it LOS. Somehow similar to a funjet (but less stressful). Stalling is uncritical. And it looks really good in the air. It's also quite silent, which is an important benefit for an FPV plane. (I'm using a 9x7 on 1050kv and 4S, so not a high-speed setup)
Great job Chris! Love that plane.

Now I need to tune in the Pixhawk and test FPV gear. Also I will use my 3D printed wing mounts.
I'm still undecided whether to add the nose cone. Hmm.


After flight:
76320

Håvard Støre
17th March 2017, 02:29 PM
Yes - 5/8 from the forward edge of the front spar slot. I put it exactly on there and it flies wonderfully.
That is approximately 15.875 mm.

dmpriso
17th March 2017, 02:36 PM
That is approximately 15.875 mm.

Damn, I just cut my only inch tape to find out.
:D

Texzin
17th March 2017, 02:42 PM
I will use my 3D printed wing mounts.


After flight:
76320[/QUOTE]


What is the 3d wing mounts?

dmpriso
17th March 2017, 02:48 PM
76321

76322

Texzin
17th March 2017, 02:52 PM
76321

76322

Nice idea.would it be possiable to get stl file.

Hoss
17th March 2017, 02:53 PM
Damn... Printing tonight.

Can't find them.

Hook a brother up?

ritewing
17th March 2017, 02:55 PM
Why would you use a razor knife and recessed them down so they're flush and bury them a little bit. No reason to have them hanging out underneath the aircraft

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

dmpriso
17th March 2017, 03:12 PM
Will do that on the MD Chris.

Attached the STL file for you guys. Scaling=1mm

The rubber is actually a sealing ring I got from a local store. Works great.

76323

When printing, don't forget you need FOUR of them. I usually print two and wonder what kind of idiot I am.
I used epoxy to secure it. Printing with raft and making small holes in the foam helps with adhesion.

Hoss
17th March 2017, 04:00 PM
Word. Thanks man!

Håvard Støre
17th March 2017, 04:10 PM
Chris got a point. Have a look at the ones for Z3. Nothing poking out to slow down the aircraft.

Hoss
17th March 2017, 05:31 PM
Chris got a point. Have a look at the ones for Z3. Nothing poking out to slow down the aircraft.
I was going to bury them, but I'll have a look. Thanks brother!

Håvard Støre
17th March 2017, 06:21 PM
Left side is the fuselage. Right side is the wing:
76328

Hoss
17th March 2017, 08:31 PM
Left side is the fuselage. Right side is the wing:
76328
Sweet sweet sweet. Where is that file? Can't find it.

This addiction... Oh this addiction. Can't believe I just clicked on a tricopter V4 with full kit... I have and love the v3. I think I might put a vector on it too. Had one on my 3 long time ago. It was slightly half baked, but should be awesome now, hopefully.

This weather really needs to get better. And I really need a spare couple grand so I can go fly Norway and the mid west.

billyd
17th March 2017, 10:52 PM
Will do that on the MD Chris.

Attached the STL file for you guys. Scaling=1mm

The rubber is actually a sealing ring I got from a local store. Works great.

76323

When printing, don't forget you need FOUR of them. I usually print two and wonder what kind of idiot I am.
I used epoxy to secure it. Printing with raft and making small holes in the foam helps with adhesion.

Thanks for this I was just coming to ask Chris where the heck are my wing mounts in the kit? lol

billyd
17th March 2017, 10:57 PM
I finished gluing the spar tubes in place and pinned everything and let it cure. The good news is the wing is perfectly straight and assembles easily. The bad news is my spar tubes are not bottomed. They moved on me while they were setting up.

Texzin
17th March 2017, 11:07 PM
Thanks for the stl file. printing them now

Hoss
18th March 2017, 10:35 AM
I finished gluing the spar tubes in place and pinned everything and let it cure. The good news is the wing is perfectly straight and assembles easily. The bad news is my spar tubes are not bottomed. They moved on me while they were setting up.

What did you put them in with? If hot glue, alcohol will release them and you can do over. Check my log if you have any questions. With the spar tubes, I used goop in the middle og the spar and hot glue at both ends. This allows you to get them in and pressed in hard and they hold permanently after about 20 seconds. Then you can go over top with goop while doing the spar caps to really lock them in - though if you do the goop and pressing right in the initial set, it'll wrap around and they will be as good as permanent right from the get go. They will always float up and any liquid glue will always try to fill the lowest cavity if you don't get them hard set right away. It'll push them up and you'll be out of alignment.

If you did it in a permanent way that you can't back out of, but haven't done the other portions yet (wings or fuse), you can even them out by installing the spars with the plane together, so you get the right gap in the other section. So, say you did the fuse but haven't done the wings yet, you could do a base layer of hot glue just to get the spar set in the right position by holding it until cooled, then go back over with another glue to make them permanent. Good luck.

ritewing
18th March 2017, 10:40 AM
Try using alcohol on goop too as long as it's fairly fresh the alcohol a lot of the times will release the goop. I use it on goop all the time even if the goop is fairly dry

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

billyd
18th March 2017, 10:40 AM
What did you put them in with? If hot glue, alcohol will release them and you can do over. Check my log if you have any questions. With the spar tubes, I used goop in the middle og the spar and hot glue at both ends. This allows you to get them in and pressed in hard and they hold permanently after about 20 seconds. Then you can go over top with goop while doing the spar caps to really lock them in - though if you do the goop and pressing right in the initial set, it'll wrap around and they will be as good as permanent right from the get go. They will always float up and any liquid glue will always try to fill the lowest cavity if you don't get them hard set right away. It'll push them up and you'll be out of alignment.

If you did it in a permanent way that you can't back out of, but haven't done the other portions yet (wings or fuse), you can even them out by installing the spars with the plane together, so you get the right gap in the other section. So, say you did the fuse but haven't done the wings yet, you could do a base layer of hot glue just to get the spar set in the right position by holding it until cooled, then go back over with another glue to make them permanent. Good luck.

No the whole thing is gooped in solid. The spar tubes settled about an 1/8" off the bottom while the wings were pinned. The plane is true and assembles easily, just the tubes are not bottomed. They moved as the goop cured. If I do it again, I will goop in the spar tubes in the center section hold them down with weight until the goop cures. Then do the wing spar tubes later with the plane assembled and pinned. Anyway the plane assembles straight so I am going to ignore it and keep going. If the plane rips itself apart in flight I'll let you know. But those spar tubes are not coming out by my hand.

billyd
18th March 2017, 10:42 AM
Try using alcohol on goop too as long as it's fairly fresh the alcohol a lot of the times will release the goop. I use it on goop all the time even if the goop is fairly dry

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

It's been 24 hour now.

ritewing
18th March 2017, 10:45 AM
Try some alcohol still,let it soak

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

billyd
18th March 2017, 10:47 AM
Try some alcohol still,let it soak

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

ok. Is denatured alcohol ok?

ritewing
18th March 2017, 10:50 AM
Yes

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

billyd
18th March 2017, 10:50 AM
What happens if I fly with the spar tubes not bottomed? Will the plane rip itself apart in flight? Seems to me like it wouldn't matter much as long as the plane assembles true...

ritewing
18th March 2017, 10:51 AM
Dono if the fins will have the holes lined up

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

ritewing
18th March 2017, 10:52 AM
Show me some pix

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Hoss
18th March 2017, 10:59 AM
Yeah, as long as it assembles true you're fine. It's a matter of either getting the other parts to line up correctly or doing over the part that went wrong. Like Chris said, the stabilizers might not line up and you might have to bore them out to fit, loosening them.

Alcohol will work on 24 hour old goop too. It essentially melts it, turning it into a gooey mess, so be ready for a decent cleanup process if you go that route.

If it assembles true, you're good - it's just a pain once something is off and always much easier to just bottom everything out and be done. Good luck.

ritewing
18th March 2017, 10:59 AM
See if the verts line up when their inserts are put in

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

ritewing
18th March 2017, 11:00 AM
If they do you are probably ok

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

billyd
18th March 2017, 11:25 AM
Here's a few pictures.

Hoss
18th March 2017, 11:32 AM
Are they all in and it lines up true? If so, I'd do whatever was required to make the stabs work. I wouldn't go back on that now. Too far. Just me though...

Hoss
18th March 2017, 11:38 AM
No the whole thing is gooped in solid. The spar tubes settled about an 1/8" off the bottom while the wings were pinned. The plane is true and assembles easily, just the tubes are not bottomed. They moved as the goop cured. If I do it again, I will goop in the spar tubes in the center section hold them down with weight until the goop cures. Then do the wing spar tubes later with the plane assembled and pinned. Anyway the plane assembles straight so I am going to ignore it and keep going. If the plane rips itself apart in flight I'll let you know. But those spar tubes are not coming out by my hand.
Just seeing this message now. If they're in and it assembles true, concentrate on getting a good layer of goop on top of them when installing the spar caps. I don't know if the caps that came with the official release have a gap or if they fill the whole cavity, but if they have a gap, you can also use a mixture of gorilla and wood glue to really seat the spars in and fill the area, but personally I'd just throw a layer of goop over them, install the caps nicely and forget about it. They're not going anywhere with goop under and over - no chance. I do trust that you sanded the inside of the spar channels to rough up the foam? Too late now if not, but it'll help...

billyd
18th March 2017, 12:43 PM
Yeah I think I'm going to just run with it unless Chris feels strongly that it would be a bad idea based on the pictures.

ritewing
18th March 2017, 12:49 PM
I think it'll be fine. Just fill that Gap a little bit to support the two and you'll be okay

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

JonU
18th March 2017, 02:51 PM
Finally got started putting mine together today. Got the main spars cut to length along with their caps. Now it's just a matter of watching glue dry.

billyd
18th March 2017, 04:01 PM
What I missed was pinning the spar tubes. I pinned the wings up but didn't do anything to keep the spar tubes from moving and gravity just let them droop down. Don't be like me. Pin the spar tubes.

Hoss
18th March 2017, 04:15 PM
T pins work great. Or you can use hot glue at the outer edges and hold them in place for 20 seconds - they won't move a micron after that and you can continue on with your build while the slow glue dries.

billyd
18th March 2017, 04:19 PM
I drew up some scaled down Z3 wing mounts for the minidrak. I sized them to fit the indents in the wings and center section. Second Edit: added a version with walls to increase shear strength due to their small size.

Edit: I've tested it and the O ring you'll need with these is a 1.5" outside diameter ring with a 3/32" dia cross section.

Hoss
18th March 2017, 04:38 PM
Bad ass! Thank you!!! Been trying to mess with files to come up with something. I'm new to tinkering with 3D stuff, and have 0 time to dedicate to it usually. These are great. Thanks.

Håvard Støre
18th March 2017, 04:39 PM
I drew up some scaled down Z3 wing mounts for the minidrak. I sized them to fit the indents in the wings and center section.

Don't know how big an O ring you'll need with these, but I would guess about a 25mm outside diameter ring with about a 2.5 to 3.5mm dia cross section.
They look great billid. After almost two years of flying the Z3, I can testify that its a good system.

billyd
18th March 2017, 04:41 PM
I added a version with walls to improve strength of glue.

Håvard Støre
18th March 2017, 04:43 PM
I added a version with studs to improve strength of glue.
That is a very good idea. Do you have a picture of it?

billyd
18th March 2017, 04:51 PM
That is a very good idea. Do you have a picture of it? Printing them just now... Have a photo in an hour or so.

Hoss
18th March 2017, 05:11 PM
Yeah, I was going to attempt to put holes in the corners to glue in pins, but studs sound good.

billyd
18th March 2017, 06:10 PM
Don't like the studs they aren't strong enough, stay tuned for another revision. The rest of the design is fine though.

Edit ok uploaded new design with walls instead of studs.

Hoss
18th March 2017, 06:22 PM
Once glued in flat and level it would probably be fine. What might be really effective is to put a vertical piece on each end, almost like a u shape. Then you can make a slit on either end, fill it with glue, insert the 2 sides straight down and it'll probably be super solid.

What do you use to design?

billyd
18th March 2017, 09:40 PM
Once glued in flat and level it would probably be fine. What might be really effective is to put a vertical piece on each end, almost like a u shape. Then you can make a slit on either end, fill it with glue, insert the 2 sides straight down and it'll probably be super solid.

What do you use to design? Yup I put a U shaped wall 2mm thick on each one. Now to install you just cut out the center to make room for the Oring and then cut the perimeter about 6mm deep and goop the print in place. Like I said I think a 3/32" dia cross section ring with a 1.5" OD should work perfectly.

I am a mechanical engineer and use Keycreator for my design work at the office and home. It's the great great grandson of Cadkey which was the first fully 3D CAD program for the desktop computer. Awesome program but too pricey for the casual modeler.

Håvard Støre
18th March 2017, 10:58 PM
My humble contribution. File will be available once Scott and me have perfected the design.
7635676357

BrownEyedFool
18th March 2017, 11:24 PM
6 full and 3 partial plasti dip showed up. anyone got tips or a guide for doing plasti dip on the MD? Planning dip and full lam because I'm not a great pilot

billyd
19th March 2017, 12:55 PM
My humble contribution. File will be available once Scott and me have perfected the design.
7635676357

Nice

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 02:14 PM
Nice
Thanks Billy:-)

skygreg
19th March 2017, 02:58 PM
Nice Håvard ! Can you post your stl in beta version ? I'm building one mini-drak right now.

Hoss
19th March 2017, 03:11 PM
They are bad ass. They print well, they are strong and will not (probably can not) break. I found the o ring sizes and sent to Havard. I could only find imperial, so hopefully there is an easy conversion and available ring. I'm sure there is... They make a billion sizes... Good times. Thanks Havard for your mad skills on day 1 of designing. You've now worked yourself into needing a printer😉

Hoss
19th March 2017, 03:52 PM
Havard is about to post it I am guessing. There is a difference in the big drak and little drak joiners - in the mini, the joiner fits in but has some foam left in front where the wing and fuse meet, on both sides. I asked Havard to do this because they are tiny, so I figured the little strip of foam would allow you to cut out a square of foam on the inner portion and be able to glue on all 4 sides so that it's super secure and can't come out. I think the measurements I gave him left 4mm or so of foam on the edge of the wing and the edge of the fuse. They are 2 different sizes as well, so take note where you're putting it as the sizes differ on the wing and fuse. With the big drak, they take up the entire cutout, but they're much bigger and will have a much larger surface area to glue, so they're not going anywhere. Just wanted to answer the inevitable question of "why don't they fill the whole cavity" before it's asked ;) If you wanted it to fit, I'm sure either Havard would do it or you could simply stretch it in tinker, but I think it'll be more secure for the mini this way, personally.

You'll also be pleasantly surprised to see that he is a champion and created it with 4 for the print job, so no messing around with adding it 4 times and moving everything around. Just load and print. I printed with 50% infill and I cannot break them, so it's plenty strong.

Thanks Havard!!!

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 03:53 PM
Here are the STL file. Please let me know if anything could be improved:
76366

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 03:54 PM
O-rings:
76367

Hoss
19th March 2017, 03:59 PM
I posted this on the previous page, but it went to a new page and I wanted it to be with the files so people would see it, so I'm simply posting it again :)

Havard is about to post it I am guessing. There is a difference in the big drak and little drak joiners - in the mini, the joiner fits in but has some foam left in front where the wing and fuse meet, on both sides. I asked Havard to do this because they are tiny, so I figured the little strip of foam would allow you to cut out a square of foam on the inner portion and be able to glue on all 4 sides so that it's super secure and can't come out. I think the measurements I gave him left 4mm or so of foam on the edge of the wing and the edge of the fuse. They are 2 different sizes as well, so take note where you're putting it as the sizes differ on the wing and fuse. With the big drak, they take up the entire cutout, but they're much bigger and will have a much larger surface area to glue, so they're not going anywhere. Just wanted to answer the inevitable question of "why don't they fill the whole cavity" before it's asked ;) If you wanted it to fit, I'm sure either Havard would do it or you could simply stretch it in tinker, but I think it'll be more secure for the mini this way, personally.

You'll also be pleasantly surprised to see that he is a champion and created it with 4 for the print job, so no messing around with adding it 4 times and moving everything around. Just load and print. I printed with 50% infill and I cannot break them, so it's plenty strong.

Thanks Havard!!!

skygreg
19th March 2017, 04:18 PM
awesome, printing !!!

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 05:03 PM
awesome, printing !!!
Could you post pictures when they are installed, please?

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 05:14 PM
These ones are with peg holes, and they cover the whole cutout area:
76375

billyd
19th March 2017, 05:37 PM
Love it Harvard. Like it better than mine.

Suggestion, why not leave the outer edge of one side open, to make removal easier?

Hoss
19th March 2017, 05:41 PM
There's a gap between them where the stabilizer is where you can get it. The curve is such that it would be difficult to get under a tight o ring without damaging it. Going from the middle will allow you to slide something in (small flat head) and pop them right off.

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 05:46 PM
We assume they will be easy to remove the way Scott said. If not I will make a notch on the inside curve, for a small tool to be inserted. It was in the original design, but I removed it because I don't think it will be necessary.
76377

Hoss
19th March 2017, 05:53 PM
We assume they will be easy to remove the way Scott said. If not I will make a notch on the inside curve, for a small tool to be inserted. It was in the original design, but I removed it because I don't think it will be necessary.
Hey Havard, if you do put it back in, maybe it would be possible to put it at the middle of the curve? That way it would be a single pop without having to even work it at all... Slide it under and lift. Just a thought.

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 06:00 PM
Hey Havard, if you do put it back in, maybe it would be possible to put it at the middle of the curve? That way it would be a single pop without having to even work it at all... Slide it under and lift. Just a thought.
I don't want to do that as it may become a weak point if someone is careless with a tool. Sometimes we grab the nearest tool even though it is not the right one. It was like that in my very first sketch. For functionality its the best way, but the remaining material in the area would be a bit flimsy if abused.

billyd
19th March 2017, 06:07 PM
Looks like in your second version you stretched the length of the ring tunnels as well as the overall of the block. Did you intend that?

Håvard Støre
19th March 2017, 06:31 PM
Looks like in your second version you stretched the length of the ring tunnels as well as the overall of the block. Did you intend that?
Not sure what you mean. The overall length have been stretched 4mm. This also extended the tunnels so that the same size O-ring will fit. The second version will go to the edge, against the coroplast. Was this your concern or did I mess anything up with the change?

Btw. I will make a 3rd version tomorrow after work with a notch for easy removal of the O-ring. I have been going back and forth, so I will leave it up to you guys what version you prefer. The O-ring can be removed with a 2.5 mm flathead. No bigger as it will mess with the integrity of the small amount of lip/overhang that secures the O-ring:-)

LVSloper
19th March 2017, 07:52 PM
CG anyone?

Hoss
19th March 2017, 08:42 PM
5/8 from the forward edge of the front spar slot.

JonU
19th March 2017, 08:53 PM
I've got 95% of the gluing done, just need to decide what I want to do for wing retention. And decide what servos to put in it. I just need to get things hydro dipped now. I may be moving away from the dragon scales, but still multi colored.

billyd
19th March 2017, 08:57 PM
Not sure what you mean. The overall length have been stretched 4mm. This also extended the tunnels so that the same size O-ring will fit. The second version will go to the edge, against the coroplast. Was this your concern or did I mess anything up with the change?

Btw. I will make a 3rd version tomorrow after work with a notch for easy removal of the O-ring. I have been going back and forth, so I will leave it up to you guys what version you prefer. The O-ring can be removed with a 2.5 mm flathead. No bigger as it will mess with the integrity of the small amount of lip/overhang that secures the O-ring:-) If you wanted to keep the O ring the same for each version, you would want to stretch the block without changing the length of the tunnel. Unless I am missing something. Your first version the straight portions of the tunnels are 4mm shorter than on the second. So the overall length of the O ring for the second version would have to have a 16mm longer circumference than the O ring for the first version.

I've come around to your way of thinking and I agree you won't need a tool to insert or remove the O rings at the field.

billyd
19th March 2017, 09:11 PM
BTW for all the fiberglass spars I recommend you use a glue called E6000 which is basically like a thinner viscosity version of GOOP. It's much easier and faster to get it into the wing grooves and sets up real strong like GOOP. I find it's alot easier to work with for fine detail. The glue comes in tube with a small diameter nozzle too which lends itself better than the wide mouth of the GOOP tube for this kind of work. Of course you can use the white plastic nozzle that comes with GOOP but there's no convenient way to reseal it when you're done. So you have to take it off and get all the glue out (wasteful) if you want to re-use that nozzle another day.

Hoss
19th March 2017, 09:20 PM
If you wanted to keep the O ring the same for each version, you would want to stretch the block without changing the length of the tunnel. Unless I am missing something. Your first version the straight portions of the tunnels are 4mm shorter than on the second. So the overall length of the O ring for the second version would have to have a 16mm longer circumference than the O ring for the first version.

I've come around to your way of thinking and I agree you won't need a tool to insert or remove the O rings at the field.
The tunnels are longer, but that just means​ that more of the o ring will be in the tunnel rather then be exposed. If you read my post just before and just after Havard posts the file, I say that the joiner is smaller than the area molded for it, and that it should be installed in the inner portion of the wing. This was to allow for some foam to be between the edges of the wing and fuse and the insert, to get more surface area to glue and to have a barrier for the high tension job that the insert has to do. He put out a lengthened version just so guys didn't install them at the edge of the wing and fuse, negating the original purpose. Regardless, the o ring remains the same size. There's merely more plastic in between, and less gluing area. And no barrier to assist in retaining tension.

Hoss
19th March 2017, 09:31 PM
Here's a visual of the original file. You will see the velcro underneath and some foam. This was done intentionally so that there was a nice chunk of foam in between the stabilizer to secure both joiner blocks in nicely as they will have a high tension job (and a really high tension one in a crash or otherwise rough situation) so I suggested that Havard leave some space for foam so that there could be 5 surface areas to glue on, including the most stressed part, the inner edge. Havard felt that guys might (and apparently they have) think that the 2 pieces need to go to the inner most edge of the wing and fuse, so he made them big enough to fit the entire cavity. This does not increase the size of the ring needed, it merely extends the plastic out to the edge and loses the 4 or 5 mm of foam to glue to.

http://i.imgur.com/CYwPnjJl.jpg

billyd
19th March 2017, 09:42 PM
Understood. Thanks for the explanation. I've got them printed and ready to go in my mini drak!

Hoss
20th March 2017, 12:32 AM
Hey Havard,

You asked for some install pics. I stupidly forgot that I wanted to use the smaller ones and proceeded to cut out the whole area, so I had no choice but to download / print the bigger ones and install ;)

They're drying now. Installed with Beacon Foam Tac - aka: the greatest glue you can ever possibly use with foam :)

http://i.imgur.com/8TvAbZLl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/J9LBIeRl.jpg

JonU
20th March 2017, 01:39 AM
Did a little photoshop work and came up with this for a backup in case I can't find a hydrographics place nearby.

http://i.imgur.com/8KK3Mvt.jpg

dmpriso
20th March 2017, 04:33 AM
Hey Harvard,

your 3D design looks very good. Too bad I've glued in mine already yesterday. However I've taken care that they don't hang down below the wing.

http://nationalinterest.org/files/main_images/23884762989_f3e6e24d4d_k.jpg

I've installed GPS (which was still missing) yesterday and also an Airspeed sensor. Also added the nose condom. Will re-maiden today and tune in the AP.

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 05:57 AM
Hey Havard,
You asked for some install pics. :)

They look frikin awesome:-)


Hey Harvard,

your 3D design looks very good. Too bad I've glued in mine already yesterday. However I've taken care that they don't hang down below the wing.



I've installed GPS (which was still missing) yesterday and also an Airspeed sensor. Also added the nose condom. Will re-maiden today and tune in the AP.
Your Mini Drak looks menacinghttp://fpvlab.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.png

billyd
20th March 2017, 10:31 AM
fwiw I see no advantage at all to leaving foam between the joiners and outer edge. Whether you notch out the entire area, or install the smaller joiners inboard makes almost no difference. 99% of the strength will result from the GOOP and how much area of the GOOP is in contact with the foam and the part. Foam itself is relatively weak. I feel certain the larger 3D printed version of Harvard's design will be stronger assuming all else equal because there is more area to glue.

JonU
20th March 2017, 10:37 AM
Hey Harvard,

your 3D design looks very good. Too bad I've glued in mine already yesterday. However I've taken care that they don't hang down below the wing.

http://nationalinterest.org/files/main_images/23884762989_f3e6e24d4d_k.jpg

I've installed GPS (which was still missing) yesterday and also an Airspeed sensor. Also added the nose condom. Will re-maiden today and tune in the AP.

Why doesn't my Mini Drak look like this?! :p

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 11:18 AM
Hey Havard, if you do put it back in, maybe it would be possible to put it at the middle of the curve? That way it would be a single pop without having to even work it at all... Slide it under and lift. Just a thought.
Will this work you think? I dont know if there really is any point to weaken this area.
76387

Hoss
20th March 2017, 11:34 AM
It would, but after hearing your thoughts on it, I agree with you - why weaken it... Convenience is the last thing that this needs. Holding the wings on and never needing to be replaced is much more valuable. If you're comfortable with this, then I'm with you, but if you're more comfortable putting it on the side, run with that.

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 11:42 AM
I will put the notch on the side then. Just after the turn. Need to do some real world things first. Yawn! Then I will close this chapter and try to make camera mounts for some of our favorite planes. I am intrigued by how much a cameras can be protected, in these plastic things.

Hoss
20th March 2017, 11:53 AM
I would be the proud owner of about 15 paper weight gopro's if it weren't for these camera boxes that we use. Good luck with the designs. Very intrigued to see what you come up with.

LVSloper
20th March 2017, 12:52 PM
5/8 from the forward edge of the front spar slot.
Thank you.

billyd
20th March 2017, 01:05 PM
What's everyone using for cameras? I was thinking an 1177. Not sure if I will even bother with recording video in HD. I can always capture the transmitted video on my ground station. Certainly don't need the mini drak for AP.

dmpriso
20th March 2017, 03:31 PM
Did re-maiden today. Plane flies just perfect now. Almost needed no trims any more. Tuned in the Autopilot. Unfortunately forgot to wire VBAT to the TBS Core, so could not do a FPV flight yet. But it's really a joy to fly that plane LOS. Thinking of building the second one LOS only ;-)

ritewing
20th March 2017, 03:35 PM
Did re-maiden today. Plane flies just perfect now. Almost needed no trims any more. Tuned in the Autopilot. Unfortunately forgot to wire VBAT to the TBS Core, so could not do a FPV flight yet. But it's really a joy to fly that plane LOS. Thinking of building the second one LOS only ;-)
Awesome dude! This is a great plane LOS and FPV. A good ripping LOS vid rite here. https://youtu.be/6Uehe6rUlRs

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 04:54 PM
76391

I think this will be the final version. Please let me know if it prints well or not.

dmpriso
20th March 2017, 05:38 PM
A few pics of my MD setup:

76393
76394

76395

76396

billyd
20th March 2017, 08:12 PM
Installed Harvard's wing joiners! Super nice thanks for the great design. You can see in the photo there is a natural space created to "grab" the O ring for removal.

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 08:52 PM
Wow! That looks superb. Can I use the photo on Thingiverse? Which material did you use?

billyd
20th March 2017, 09:11 PM
Wow! That looks superb. Can I use the photo on Thingiverse? Which material did you use? Of course please do ! I used ABS. I removed the holes for my print. I don't think it needs them. When you rough up the plastic, notch the foam and GOOP them in, they're not coming out. The O ring will break first. So the holes are overkill imo. Of course now that I've said that, my joiners will fly off the plane mid flight LOL.

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 09:21 PM
I agree that the holes are overkill. There is plenty of good surface for the glue. The tool notches to grab the rings are not needed either. Maybe I will remove them all for a cleaner look. I will get mine for the Big Drak in my mailbox on Friday. It will be easier to decide once I have the physical objects in my hands.

Hoss
20th March 2017, 09:40 PM
Came home to some nice dried joiners waiting for some O rings. They are fantastic :)


http://i.imgur.com/lOjHjsNl.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/w6iCDkcl.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/iRBmp4pl.jpg

Håvard Støre
20th March 2017, 09:45 PM
Are they easy to put in and out of the grooves? They look just right from here.

Hoss
20th March 2017, 11:02 PM
Yes. Easy enough... Not so easy that I'm worried about them coming off, but easy enough that it's not a pain to do it. I also am using very thick o rings. For never making anything in 3d before, I must say that it's pretty damn impressive that you totally nailed this design... I mean, it's perfect. There's a lot that could have been slightly off and needing refinement. No so with this design. Bravo.

Eric Claburn
20th March 2017, 11:09 PM
Is anyone that has a 3d printer interested in making some of these joiners for people without a 3d printer? I personally would like 2 sets.

Hoss
21st March 2017, 12:59 AM
I can make a few sets for some guys if you need them. You pay for shipping. They'll be orange. I can do black too, but need to swap out filament to do so. If you don't care or like orange, great, if you want black, I can print a few in orange and swap rolls tomorrow night and print off some sets in black.

If you need a set, PM me your address, I'll make them, enter your info into USPS and pm you back with the shipping cost along with my PayPal info. Send the shipping cost as "send money to a friend" rather than merchant payment so they don't charge me for it, cutting into what I have to pay for shipping. You can have them shipped as fast or slow as you want. Let me know in the message if you want first class (sometimes fast if it gets thrown on a plane, sometimes slow if it gets thrown on a truck) priority (usually 2 days unless you're at an extreme end of the country, in which case it may be 3) or any other service you want. I'll enter your address and the service and give you the cost it pumps out.

billyd
22nd March 2017, 10:41 PM
Not a huge fan of coroplast for the fins because of the openings. I know some use u shaped material to line them but since I love to 3D print and try to solve every problem I can with it here is my 3D printed minidrak fin.

You need a big printer to fit this. It BARELY makes it on my Taz 5 (heavily modded). So you need about 12" square to fit it on your bed.

I was surprised that I was able to print this in ABS and keep it flat. But I use glue stick on a PEI bed and ABS just flat out sticks to that combination like crazy.

Another approach would be to use PETG but I didn't have any of that except clear and I didn't like that look.

ps This fin is designed for use with Harvard's Oring method of wing joining.

pss. I will reverse engineer the wing tips tonight and get to work to printing those next.

Hoss
22nd March 2017, 11:38 PM
Pretty bad ass, I must say. My concern would be the weight - the coroplast is mostly air, so with a little electric tape covering the top section and a cut zip tie or car door molding covering the bottom, you've got a solid piece (for practical purposes) with not much weight. With the size of those, I'm guessing you've got to go at least 30% or maybe more on infill to get to a point where they won't crack on landing (you land directly on them)? Nice work. Not trying to come down on it - just voicing my concerns, as we already know it's a bad ass design...

It's so cool where we are with technology now. This is just the tip of the iceberg too... This all just started. Don't forget, the first real smart phone came out in 2007... Yeah, like yesterday. And yes, a super intelligence, created by us initially, then created by itself a few times over, will be the end of us ;)

Enjoy your night :)

billyd
22nd March 2017, 11:52 PM
Pretty bad ass, I must say. My concern would be the weight - the coroplast is mostly air, so with a little electric tape covering the top section and a cut zip tie or car door molding covering the bottom, you've got a solid piece (for practical purposes) with not much weight. With the size of those, I'm guessing you've got to go at least 30% or maybe more on infill to get to a point where they won't crack on landing (you land directly on them)? Nice work. Not trying to come down on it - just voicing my concerns, as we already know it's a bad ass design...

It's so cool where we are with technology now. This is just the tip of the iceberg too... This all just started. Don't forget, the first real smart phone came out in 2007... Yeah, like yesterday. And yes, a super intelligence, created by us initially, then created by itself a few times over, will be the end of us ;)

Enjoy your night :) I was worried about the weight too but they are very similar in weight. I haven't weighed them but just holding them in each hand, there is not a big difference. 15% infill 2 layers bottom 3 layers top. They are straight and stiff. I think they will hold up better than the Coroplast. We'll see. They're ABS not PLA so there is plenty of flex and strength when printed properly. And the laminations run through the thickness which means the perimeter of the fins is continuous, making it very tough.

Hoss
22nd March 2017, 11:57 PM
Very nice. Gonna be a champ and share the file or post to thingiverse? I can't print these (can only print about 7 inches squared) but might send out for them. I haven't covered mine yet and maybe will just do something like this if they're strong enough to be my man.

billyd
23rd March 2017, 09:40 AM
Very nice. Gonna be a champ and share the file or post to thingiverse? I can't print these (can only print about 7 inches squared) but might send out for them. I haven't covered mine yet and maybe will just do something like this if they're strong enough to be my man.

It's on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2197208

BrownEyedFool
23rd March 2017, 10:30 AM
recommend you put ritewing in the name too so it's a little easier to find.

billyd
23rd March 2017, 11:24 AM
recommend you put ritewing in the name too so it's a little easier to find.

Ok will do.

astr0lite
23rd March 2017, 08:05 PM
Love the Taz printer :) I have a Taz 3 with well over 1000 prints on it and it just keeps chugging along. Even with an enclosure I could not print anything but small ABS parts. When PETG came out I never bought another spool of anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

billyd
23rd March 2017, 10:23 PM
Love the Taz printer :) I have a Taz 3 with well over 1000 prints on it and it just keeps chugging along. Even with an enclosure I could not print anything but small ABS parts. When PETG came out I never bought another spool of anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI spent about $2000 in upgrades on my Taz 5 to get it to print well (I designed the removable bed system for the Taz5 the stock bed is a disaster). ABS requires an enclosure and much higher temps than many say. At least 250-255c. Using glue stick on a PEI bed heated to 100c and you can print anything in ABS (with an enclosure). Ok back on topic.

ritewing
23rd March 2017, 11:24 PM
Hey guys please take care when cutting your Balsa from the template for your elevon. This is a PDF and it needs to be print to actual size. If not it will come out too short and you will cut it wrong please verify this by holding it up to the trailing edge of the aircraft and make sure it is form fit prior to cutting any of the balsa wood. This Balsa is custom made and you can't get it locally.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Eric Claburn
23rd March 2017, 11:26 PM
Where's the file for the elevons

ritewing
23rd March 2017, 11:30 PM
First page first post on this build thread

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

dmpriso
24th March 2017, 05:03 AM
Hey guys please take care when cutting your Balsa from the template for your elevon. This is a PDF and it needs to be print to actual size. If not it will come out too short and you will cut it wrong please verify this by holding it up to the trailing edge of the aircraft and make sure it is form fit prior to cutting any of the balsa wood. This Balsa is custom made and you can't get it locally.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

LOL.I didn't even notice there's a template. I just cut it similar to the Team Legit guys.

billyd
24th March 2017, 09:44 AM
Hey guys please take care when cutting your Balsa from the template for your elevon. This is a PDF and it needs to be print to actual size. If not it will come out too short and you will cut it wrong please verify this by holding it up to the trailing edge of the aircraft and make sure it is form fit prior to cutting any of the balsa wood. This Balsa is custom made and you can't get it locally.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

I had an interesting issue with my balsa, one was very easy to cut, and the other was really really hard to cut. It seemed as though there was some sort of internal hardened glue (or perhaps just really hard wood) running through the middle that was hard as a rock to cut through. Also it was heavier than the other piece. Not complaining as I was able to get it to work, but I thought you might want to know in case you wanted to mention it to your supplier.

Also I would revise the motor mount, both pieces to be about 4-6mm wider between the mounting edges on the rails. The ritewing motor package is almost a line to line fit on the can. I had to file quite a bit off the mount rails along their inner edges to get it to fit well.

Hoss
24th March 2017, 10:50 AM
The motor is a super tight fit, but once you get it centered and locked in with 4 bolts, it's not moving at all. It's not an area that is going to flex and rub in flight. But it is a little bit of a pain to get perfect.

billyd
24th March 2017, 10:57 AM
The motor is a super tight fit, but once you get it centered and locked in with 4 bolts, it's not moving at all. It's not an area that is going to flex and rub in flight. But it is a little bit of a pain to get perfect. I think if it's that close you have a pretty fair chance of hitting it during a hard landing or even a high G maneuver. Mine was rubbing at installation anyway. The edge wasn't a paper thickness away. Anyway there is a ton of extra meat between the holes on the rails and their inner edges. You can remove 2-3mm off each inside edge and not change the strength in any meaningful way.

scotth72
24th March 2017, 01:42 PM
I just spread the mount before I installed it. Plenty of clearance now, and the holes still lined up fine.

Hoss
24th March 2017, 02:25 PM
I just duct taped the motor to the back. It should fly right - right?

ritewing
24th March 2017, 02:35 PM
It's a tiny plane with a big motor capability. Clearances are tight. Build knowing this . I also bend it out just a tad. To clear more,, this is easy . Once mounted in the clear place it won't rub unless you bend your mount in a crash or something . The mount is bent in a press break and can easy be off just a hair. So check for fit and adjust if needed

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Eric Claburn
24th March 2017, 03:08 PM
I used a Dremel and trimmed a 1/16th off the inside of the mount. This gave me plenty of clearance for the motor.
Chris I tried using Foam-tac filler to smooth out the plane I found that it doesn't stick so I'm peeling it off any recommendations on how to get it to stick without peeling .

ritewing
24th March 2017, 03:13 PM
The only way that works is if you sand the foam fuzzy smooth and ruin the nice molded skin. Then you fill sand paint and lam and add weight for beauty.

ritewing
24th March 2017, 03:26 PM
My suggestion is to it simple, don't over think it. Follow the build thread. It has alot of thought put into it

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Hoss
24th March 2017, 03:27 PM
Yeah, literally nothing sticks to the untouched surface. Plasti dip sticks well enough to stay, but that peels too (and it's supposed to anyway). But rustoleum, glue, really anything will peel right off. As Chris said, sanding till fuzzy obviously works, though I remember some guys with the big drak had success by removing the glaze on the surface with alcohol. I'd test a small patch, but it works from what they reported then.

Eric Claburn
24th March 2017, 03:27 PM
Ok thanks it peeled off easy so nothing but time out the window.

BrownEyedFool
24th March 2017, 03:50 PM
So minor plasti dip, then 3m90 then lam is the KISS principle right?

Eric Claburn
24th March 2017, 04:35 PM
I agree but how Kool would the mini drak look with a chameleon plastidip paint job. With that being said smoother the better. Aesthetically pleasing.

billyd
24th March 2017, 07:17 PM
Bending the mount would work before you glue it to the frame. But I didn't check motor fit at that point. Anyway I've already trimmed it and installed the motor. Just trying to be helpful with parts made for future deliveries but that sounds like it won't happen which is fine it's easily altered.

Håvard Støre
24th March 2017, 07:20 PM
Whats the measurements of Ritewing thumb screws?

Hoss
25th March 2017, 10:22 AM
Fyi, the 7x6 is awesome. Using a master airscrew.

The screws are 1/4 - 20.

JonU
25th March 2017, 10:58 AM
I have 3 pairs of props coming in today. I ordered a pair of 7x5, 7x5.5, and 7x6. All are Master Airscrew, with one pair being the scimitar series. The 5.5 is the electric only series, and the 7x6 are the GF series.

Håvard Støre
25th March 2017, 11:12 AM
The screws are 1/4 - 20.
Thanks:-)

skygreg
25th March 2017, 11:43 AM
I have 3 pairs of props coming in today. I ordered a pair of 7x5, 7x5.5, and 7x6. All are Master Airscrew, with one pair being the scimitar series. The 5.5 is the electric only series, and the 7x6 are the GF series.
Interested by your feedback ;)

Hoss
25th March 2017, 11:45 AM
You're going to like the 6. If I can find a 7x7 I'm trying it. It can take more (with throttle management). Only thing I can find is nitro ones though so far.

Håvard Støre
25th March 2017, 04:13 PM
Ok guys... Screws are a tricky thing for printers for a couple of reasons. I made 5 thicknesses, but with the same length and threads. Would any of you be interested to see if any of the 5 can be used. I numbered them 1-5.

It would be best if several of you tried, to get more sample results with different printers, settings and material.
76458

Hoss
25th March 2017, 04:26 PM
I'll try.

Tronski
25th March 2017, 04:26 PM
Aeronaut makes a nice 7x7. It's got more courd then the APC speed 7x7 but doesn't seem to draw more current. Downside might be easier to break but no issues so far.

billyd
25th March 2017, 04:56 PM
I added the small wing tip fins for the minidrak to my thingiverse page here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2197208

Håvard Støre
25th March 2017, 05:40 PM
I added the small wing tip fins for the minidrak to my thingiverse page here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2197208
I really love your stabs. Super clean and sexy. Bet they will look nice. Looking forward to seeing them installed. Are they more or less stiffer than the coroplast ones?

JonU
25th March 2017, 06:56 PM
I'm guessing that is to save a little weight? My plan was to use magnets on the lids.

billyd
25th March 2017, 07:13 PM
I really love your stabs. Super clean and sexy. Bet they will look nice. Lookinrward to seeing them installed. Are they more or less stiffer than the coroplast ones?

Thanks! I think they look much better than the coroplast because they are solid and have a smooth full radius through the thickness all the way around the perimeter. Gets rid of the ragged choppy look of the coroplast. Also they are more precise because you can only cut coroplast so smoothly and accurately. They are stiffer and stronger, but they are heavier than coroplast. 24 grams heavier each. So I don't view the weight as significant in comparison to their benefits. 48 grams added to the minidrak, I don't think it will matter at all.

JonU
25th March 2017, 07:15 PM
I didn't notice all the replies, but I was referring to the 3d printed screws.

billyd
25th March 2017, 07:19 PM
I didn't notice all the replies, but I was referring to the 3d printed screws.lol ok sorry... fixed the post and removed your quote.

Håvard Støre
25th March 2017, 08:47 PM
I didn't notice all the replies, but I was referring to the 3d printed screws.
We use plastic screws to hols down the lids. Magnets in lids and canopies are for toy grade aircraft:p

Hoss
25th March 2017, 08:59 PM
Havard, the screws, all of them, fit in the standard 1/4 - 20 fitting. They do feel a little loose until you get buried pretty deep, but I can't pull any of them out after a thread or 2. I don't know what the difference between them is, but I feel like 3 fits best for some reason. The shaft and threads could probably be slightly (very slightly) larger, but they will work as is.

Håvard Støre
25th March 2017, 09:31 PM
Nr 3 was the biggest. Nr 4 and 5 should be bigger but I made a mistake when scaling. Sorry.

In this new one nr 1 is the same as nr 3 on the previous. nr 2,3,4 and 5 are incrementally tighter fits. I triple checked this time.

Hoss
25th March 2017, 09:32 PM
Cool. Printing again now. I'll let you know.

Håvard Støre
25th March 2017, 09:47 PM
Cool. Printing again now. I'll let you know.
Excellent bro. If I didn't mess up we would already know the correct size.

I was thinking about how many screws (of the correct size) there should be in a print. Dont want to over do it because of time and material. maybe 3x3 as in 9? I was also thinking about doing a low drag version so that our Ritewings can fly much faster.

Going to bed. Flying my Drak and Hardcore tomorrow.

Hoss
25th March 2017, 10:34 PM
Excellent bro. If I didn't mess up we would already know the correct size.

I was thinking about how many screws (of the correct size) there should be in a print. Dont want to over do it because of time and material. maybe 3x3 as in 9? I was also thinking about doing a low drag version so that our Ritewings can fly much faster.

Going to bed. Flying my Drak and Hardcore tomorrow.
Yeah, 9 sounds good. Unless you go to decent lengths to keep them in place, they fall out pretty easily. This will enable us to stop worrying so much about them and if one or 2 are missing, we can just go to our bags and grab a few more, because they're essentially free now :) Nice work man.

Hoss
25th March 2017, 11:07 PM
#2 is tight, but will loosen up once it's worked in and out a few times. #1 is easy, just as #3 was with the other batch. They're both secure and won't come out. Very nice to have an abundance of them. I sure all my planes this way now. Thanks Havard.

JonU
26th March 2017, 12:34 AM
Well, the scimitar series of props have to small and opening to be used, I may try reaming it out to fit later. The electric only prop was a perfect fit, so that is what I'll be using initially.

Håvard Støre
26th March 2017, 07:22 AM
Thanks Scott:-) I don't want to publish stuff that don't work, and you have helped me a lot, by test printing the last week.

Finished Screws:
76464

Download file here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/Havardsa/designs

JonU
28th March 2017, 11:56 PM
Well, I'm now stuck on deciding how to finish the plane. I would like to hydro-dip, but I'm not finding anyone nearby. I picked up some blue and yellow ultracote for the ailerons, but I don't know if I want to do that either. But I'm working out an idea to carry my stuff easily. I have an old pelican case from when I was in the military that has been collecting dust. I need to get some foam, but I think you guys can see where I'm going, I have another larger one that I will have to dig out. Thinking I'll try to see if the Mini Drak and another plane can fit inside of it.
http://i.imgur.com/vl6M0AH.jpg

Hoss
2nd April 2017, 11:01 AM
I am astonished at how well the mini drak does in wind. It was a good 15mph gust day and it was solid in the air. I'm amazed. My bigger planes do not do that well. I was very hesitant with the last launch, but once I got up there, it was like there was no wind. Amazing. Really cuts through.

Hoss
2nd April 2017, 11:01 AM
There's too many mini drak threads...

JonU
3rd April 2017, 01:57 PM
There's too many mini drak threads...

We should consolidate mini drak info to the thread originally created by Xerx. I'm not sure what happened to the build videos, but we did hijack it quite a bit from GoBigDale. It'll take a little bit, but if everyone stops cross posting, I think that the Mini Drak thread would be the best thread to use. Either that or create an official Mini Drak thread that someone can maintain. First post would contain links to posts with important info and a FAQ about it.

ritewing
3rd April 2017, 04:45 PM
I can close or merge some , I am up for suggestions.
The build one needs to stay, the pre sale one can be closed to comments now.

Let me know what you guys are thinking????

Hoss
3rd April 2017, 11:22 PM
Maybe just the build one. I've also got one in fixed wing, but I can manage that. I mentioned it only because I had a great experience with the mini, I came on here to brag about it and had to copy and paste my post to 4 different threads in order to reach the largest audience I could. With the big Drak, we had one thread where everything happened.

billyd
6th April 2017, 11:10 PM
If you can merge it that would be great, but not the end of the world if you can't.

ritewing
28th June 2017, 12:54 AM
https://youtu.be/KyH6cAMsJSE

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

ritewing
28th June 2017, 12:55 AM
The 55-inch wings that are made to make the mini Drac a plank

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

ritewing
29th June 2017, 12:53 AM
So dead in here slackers! Enjoy this.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x29KR8UllL8&feature=youtu.be

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Hoss
29th June 2017, 08:15 AM
All straight sickness. How can I score?

Hoss
2nd July 2017, 05:17 AM
So dead in here slackers! Enjoy this.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x29KR8UllL8&feature=youtu.be

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
You should post this stuff in the other mini drak thread - it has 10x as much traffic.

Are you selling / going to sell different wing styles, or is this just for fun for you? ;)

ritewing
2nd July 2017, 05:27 PM
What other mini thread? Yeah I'm starting to sell a few

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Hoss
2nd July 2017, 07:31 PM
This one: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46046

It's in your sponsor section - was just a random thread originally (not a build thread or sale thread) but is 1232 posts strong rather than 230 in this one. Seems to get a lot of traffic.

How can I pick up some wings?

MajorHavoc
13th July 2017, 07:32 PM
I just ordered a Mink Drak & can't wait to start building! You guys have some great tips here! Thanks!

...oh yeah, first post! wOot!

RicoFrico
15th August 2017, 03:59 PM
Finally my mini drak is almost ready, only elevons. How should these be aligned with the wing itself, same as with the took of it's big brother or flat in line with the top of the wing. What must be the throw of the elevons?

Rgds Ricohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170815/efae7a93fac1b359742acc94221f5dd0.jpg

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk

ritewing
15th August 2017, 06:58 PM
RCG Review, Jason said he loves the MD, feel free to speak up in this RCG thread. RCG is pretty dead when it comes to performance planes.
MD Pilots show your MD love there.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2936003-RiteWing-Mini-Drak-with-Connex-HD-FPV-Review#post38056442

RicoFrico
25th August 2017, 02:23 PM
Took me 3 LiPo's to tame her, but HELL YEAH!!!! She listens as it should. Great plane Cris, just like her big brother!!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk

Hoss
29th August 2017, 10:00 PM
For you guys that buried the singularity in the wing, did you have to cut all the way through and glue it in, or could you leave a little on the bottom and fit it in nicely? Thanks!

ritewing
11th September 2017, 07:46 PM
Hey guys input please.

http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?52197-Imaging-RW-line-of-fully-molded-PNP!!&p=840179#post840179

Håvard Støre
12th September 2017, 10:04 AM
For you guys that buried the singularity in the wing, did you have to cut all the way through and glue it in, or could you leave a little on the bottom and fit it in nicely? Thanks!
First cut all the way through, and cover with thin slices from the plug top and bottom for an invisible install.

JonU
10th October 2017, 03:02 PM
Just out of curiosity since I've got an 80 amp ESC on its way; would this motor (the SS) be very happy about having a 6s battery thrown into the mix? If not that's fine, but lets say down the road I wanted an even more peppy motor; what would you guys recommend? I only ask because if I can use my 6s batteries that are currently only used for my heli, it would double the batteries I have available when I take out the mini drak.

Hoss
10th October 2017, 03:08 PM
6s on the mini? I don't know about that. You can check the specs on the non ritewing version - just Google 2814 1700kv and you'll see a link to the innov8tive website - there will be a data sheet in there that has all the voltage and prop data. I know the ritewing version has some different characteristics, so maybe it can handle more, but I'd think 5s would be pushing it. I suppose you can really run any voltage you want, as long as you prop it correctly. Is it just that you're trying to go 2x 3s's in series because you have them handy?

Scott

ritewing
10th October 2017, 03:18 PM
5s and 6s is fine, it needs to BL heli esc and the only prop I would run is the 6/4 apc sport, not E prop . A cobra wing BL heli 60 or 80 work great, any other props will let out smoke. NO OTHER OR LARGER PROPS!!
Just out of curiosity since I've got an 80 amp ESC on its way; would this motor (the SS) be very happy about having a 6s battery thrown into the mix? If not that's fine, but lets say down the road I wanted an even more peppy motor; what would you guys recommend? I only ask because if I can use my 6s batteries that are currently only used for my heli, it would double the batteries I have available when I take out the mini drak.

JonU
10th October 2017, 03:31 PM
6s on the mini? I don't know about that. You can check the specs on the non ritewing version - just Google 2814 1700kv and you'll see a link to the innov8tive website - there will be a data sheet in there that has all the voltage and prop data. I know the ritewing version has some different characteristics, so maybe it can handle more, but I'd think 5s would be pushing it. I suppose you can really run any voltage you want, as long as you prop it correctly. Is it just that you're trying to go 2x 3s's in series because you have them handy?

Scott

I've actually got straight 6s batteries that get used in a T-Rex 550.They are 5500mah 45c packs so I'm not worried about over stressing the batteries, but the motor and esc was what I was worried about.


5s and 6s is fine, it needs to BL heli esc and the only prop I would run is the 6/4 apc sport, not E prop . A cobra wing BL heli 60 or 80 work great, any other props will let out smoke. NO OTHER OR LARGER PROPS!!

Chris, would this Cobra ESC (http://innov8tivedesigns.com/parts/speed-controllers-becs/cobra-80a-esc-with-6a-switching-bec) be appropriate or is it something with the BL Heli software? I won't be doing this anytime soon, but just trying make sure I know what my options are.

ritewing
10th October 2017, 03:37 PM
It needs to be BL heli wing esc, not the standard cobra.Get the 60, its the same as the 80 it just has the label say 80 and their is no difference accept price.
If its not BL heli it will not comutate fast enough and will chatter.

Håvard Støre
10th October 2017, 03:48 PM
I wish someone more clever than me, would make a variable pitch propeller for these applications. We are wasting so much energy, as our small props whip the air at supersonic speeds. The scream of the propeller is energy wasted. Love that scream though. Sorry... Just raving again:p

JonU
10th October 2017, 03:50 PM
But it only is an issue if I try to run 6s and as long as I stick with the 4s, I'll be ok?

And Havard, I've seen variable pitch props on R/C planes, just not sure how small or big they are.

Hoss
10th October 2017, 04:13 PM
I love the scream, but hate it too. It sounds cool and aggressive, but can be a serious nuisance to any residents or park goer's. Much nicer to have a drak / zephyr sound, which is well tolerated. I couldn't fly my 44 the other day because I still have the 2200 on it and it's seriously ridiculously loud. That's a good project for tonight - cut out the old mount and get the bigger mount in there. The mini drak also is a much better sound. That 2200 is a freaking screamer though...

You'll be ok on 4s, but I imagine it's going to get pretty crazy on 6s...

Scott

Håvard Støre
10th October 2017, 04:34 PM
And Havard, I've seen variable pitch props on R/C planes, just not sure how small or big they are.
Yes, you are right, but no propeller in the sizes we would need (as far as I know). It would need some serious precision and strength. Anyways.... I have never heard of anyone even attempting it. Just dreaming really. Maybe I secretly wish someone would say "challenge accepted", and go for it.

I run 2,3 kw of power on a 5x5 prop? I am not much of a health and safety guy, but I wear ear protection when test firing. It sounds extremely intimidating. Lights flicker, and everything turns purple.

crashsalot
10th October 2017, 04:48 PM
I've done 5s on the 2100kv and would expect similar for 6s on a 1700kv. For this run I was using a more aggressive prop though, don't try this at home, lol :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rUjPkRRVec

Hoss
12th October 2017, 06:32 PM
I've done 5s on the 2100kv and would expect similar for 6s on a 1700kv. For this run I was using a more aggressive prop though, don't try this at home, lol :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rUjPkRRVecLol, was that 144 mph or kmh?

Scott

PabloJaime
13th October 2017, 01:42 AM
Here we go!!! [emoji847]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/9814ea79fa6d82e3a1af465c87ecf43f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/011570714b396765645f69f5b6ea1ec6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/bff06e2b88e32ec91ce8c4d9191c115c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PabloJaime
13th October 2017, 01:46 AM
One more...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/bc536203d0ce20f711f6f412f5eaa1c2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk