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JonU
13th October 2017, 02:08 AM
Looking good so far Pablo!

I messed up my launch this evening which put an end to any flying due to a broken prop. I'm going back out tomorrow with all my props in tow to get everything running. I also got everything wired up and working. This was my first time doing wiring for fpv so I took my time making sure everything was going where it should. When I finished all that, I powered up my goggles and transmitter before powering the plane. Was able to find the proper channel super quick and was amazed by the picture quality of the split. Is the fatshark dvr that different from what I see in the goggles? Even out at the field when I was watching my friend flying his quad, it didn't appear to have much grain in the image.

Hoss
13th October 2017, 02:17 AM
Depending on what goggles you have, the screen is so small that it looks pretty decent. In reality the image is pretty low res (640x480). The DVR footage will look worse than what you see in your goggles, typically. The HD footage from the split should look pretty damn good though.

Scott

PabloJaime
18th October 2017, 10:27 AM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/0e91b1db5765fea556b59aca33d79fe0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/9bfa9441b3a46cbf29aca87319584d3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/e204d63deb09c0983066b77e966b6eef.jpg


The Mini Drakon needs some green!!!! [emoji847]


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PabloJaime
21st October 2017, 01:14 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/79295eb97d71ebd321b80927c8f25bab.jpg

Finishing touches...[emoji847]


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PabloJaime
21st October 2017, 03:31 PM
Almost there...


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/d3ada8fbe9f4f2a2c3711aeb2b42f392.jpg


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PabloJaime
24th October 2017, 03:13 PM
Ready for maiden!!!
Ended up in 1470 grams...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171024/05061cf81c3f73e0295b9b248d098d70.jpg


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PabloJaime
27th October 2017, 04:50 PM
Hi, Chris, what are the throws on the MD? and needs dual rates?
Thanks!!!

Hoss
2nd November 2017, 11:37 PM
I've got so much going on that I got lazy with the antenna move due to servo twitch (servo wire running directly behind singularity antenna ~ an inch or so, so I shielded the servo wire with cat 7 shielding, twice. Hopefully this keeps out unwanted rf. If not, the antenna is going from the bay out to the wing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171103/63958b6a1d3d9f3da3f901a04500bff8.jpg

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scotth72
3rd November 2017, 09:52 AM
Nice. I guess twisting the wire helps too. Curious to see how it works out.

Hoss
8th November 2017, 06:27 PM
Nice. I guess twisting the wire helps too. Curious to see how it works out.It didn't. Still twitching. The start of the lead from the servo itself is right on the other side of it. Getting the extended wings and going to mount it far away from the servo on those.

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Hoss
17th November 2017, 09:12 PM
Hey guys,

I'm in the process of building the extended mini drak wings. I know some of you, like me, installed the singularity in the side bay and ended up having issues with servo twitching. I planned to install the singularity out on the wing and put the vtx in the bay. I'm worried though that the proximity to the servo (a couple inches) might have the same effect. Can the guys that have their singularity out on the wing please comment and let me know how it worked out and if you see any issues now? Installing it requires surgery, and I'm very serious about cutting my beautiful wings - I'm considering installing it or scrapping it altogether and using a standard antenna. With the extended wings bringing it up to 55", carrying a proper 1.3 antenna is absolutely no issue. Thanks guys!

Scott
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/7faf41299d4e295a350d60d8aca569ea.jpg

crashsalot
17th November 2017, 11:57 PM
that's where I have mine. no twitching. invisible from the top.
77771

Hoss
18th November 2017, 12:59 AM
that's where I have mine. no twitching. invisible from the top.
77771Are those extended wings? I ask only because, if they are, I'm not sure where the servo is. It looks like it's right next to it though - is that correct? Maybe it's the proximity of the lead and not the servo itself that is the issue - ohhh... Maybe it's the fact that the lead is near the same size as a 1.3 dipole - so maybe it's super sensitive to bring that close because it very efficiently absorbs a lot of the radiation... Just a thought ;)

Scott

crashsalot
18th November 2017, 12:52 PM
Yes, extended wings. Servo right next to the antenna, you can see the cut and the horn. 1W 1.3 vtx. 225MGs.

Hoss
18th November 2017, 01:04 PM
Yes, extended wings. Servo right next to the antenna, you can see the cut and the horn. 1W 1.3 vtx. 225MGs.Perfect. Were you having twitch originally or did you put it there from the get-go?

Scott

crashsalot
18th November 2017, 01:21 PM
Perfect. Were you having twitch originally or did you put it there from the get-go?

Scott
Just got lucky. Was going by cable lengths

Hughie
28th November 2017, 09:11 PM
I am making up my own control rods for the Mini Drak using some 4-40 Threaded Rod.
I am using the HS 225MG servos.
I have the DuBro Ball Link connectors.

I was wondering what best practise is on which of the 3 holes on the servo horn to attach the DuBro Ball Link to. I may have started with the top one (most elevon throw available) but the bolt for the DuBro link is around 3mm and I think the servo horn hole is about 1.5mm. The material around the top hold is tapered so there is not going to be much left after I have doubled the size of the hole sufficient to fit the 3mm bolt through it. I am concerned that it may be a point of failure after that.

If I use the middle or the bottom hole on the servo horns, am I going to see any problems? Which hole on the horn is everyone else using.

Finally, is a 4-40 rod too thick for this anyway, should I be looking at scaling it down to a thinner rod?

Many thanks

Hoss
28th November 2017, 10:43 PM
I am making up my own control rods for the Mini Drak using some 4-40 Threaded Rod.
I am using the HS 225MG servos.
I have the DuBro Ball Link connectors.

I was wondering what best practise is on which of the 3 holes on the servo horn to attach the DuBro Ball Link to. I may have started with the top one (most elevon throw available) but the bolt for the DuBro link is around 3mm and I think the servo horn hole is about 1.5mm. The material around the top hold is tapered so there is not going to be much left after I have doubled the size of the hole sufficient to fit the 3mm bolt through it. I am concerned that it may be a point of failure after that.

If I use the middle or the bottom hole on the servo horns, am I going to see any problems? Which hole on the horn is everyone else using.

Finally, is a 4-40 rod too thick for this anyway, should I be looking at scaling it down to a thinner rod?

Many thanks4-40 is a bit much for the mini drak. 2-56 will serve your needs just fine and you won't have to worry about hole sizes, though you'll need to get a different control rod system. These work great (below). I throw a small diameter carbon tube and some heat shrink on both sides to ensure it is secure and can't bend.



Scott
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171129/4ba6e9acb070c3a08dc2efee113d72ec.jpg

Hughie
29th November 2017, 03:49 AM
4-40 is a bit much for the mini drak. 2-56 will serve your needs just fine and you won't have to worry about hole sizes, though you'll need to get a different control rod system. These work great (below). I throw a small diameter carbon tube and some heat shrink on both sides to ensure it is secure and can't bend.



Scott

Thanks Scott, what about the angle different between the servo throw and the elevon. I assumed it was necessary to remove the resistance by using a ball link ?

Hoss
29th November 2017, 08:48 AM
Thanks Scott, what about the angle different between the servo throw and the elevon. I assumed it was necessary to remove the resistance by using a ball link ?It's not too bad and the throws are small, so it's fine.

Scott

Hughie
29th November 2017, 09:55 AM
It's not too bad and the throws are small, so it's fine.

Scott

Thanks

Hughie
29th November 2017, 09:58 AM
Is there any documentation anywhere which shows recommended reflex settings; and recommended throw extent distance for aileron and elevator modes.

I am really grateful for any information provided on this forum, it does seem strange to me that this kit arrived with zero instructions or even a reference on where to go to find instructions. I have been building on and off for 40 years and cant think of a single kit that came without instructions. Maybe this one meant to have some, but they just didnt get put in the box?

Anyway forgive my rant, any information on reflex and throws gratefully received.

Hoss
29th November 2017, 10:41 AM
Is there any documentation anywhere which shows recommended reflex settings; and recommended throw extent distance for aileron and elevator modes.

I am really grateful for any information provided on this forum, it does seem strange to me that this kit arrived with zero instructions or even a reference on where to go to find instructions. I have been building on and off for 40 years and cant think of a single kit that came without instructions. Maybe this one meant to have some, but they just didnt get put in the box?

Anyway forgive my rant, any information on reflex and throws gratefully received.

Hey Hughie,


Most Ritewing planes are covered extensively in the forums and there are always build logs and build videos. This is a good log that you're in now, but if you want something with more pictures, I have a log in the fixed wing section here: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?50711-Ritewing-Mini-Drak-Build-and-Info

For the reflex, you want 1 to 2 mm of gap over the hinge line when placing a straight edge or ruler from the wing root off the trailing edge up near the vert. For throw, about an inch total - 1/2" up and 1/2" down is plenty for this plane.

Hughie
29th November 2017, 10:54 AM
Hey Hughie,


Most Ritewing planes are covered extensively in the forums and there are always build logs and build videos. This is a good log that you're in now, but if you want something with more pictures, I have a log in the fixed wing section here: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?50711-Ritewing-Mini-Drak-Build-and-Info

For the reflex, you want 1 to 2 mm of gap over the hinge line when placing a straight edge or ruler from the wing root off the trailing edge up near the vert. For throw, about an inch total - 1/2" up and 1/2" down is plenty for this plane.

Many thanks.

Hughie
3rd December 2017, 04:40 PM
Hi

OK this is one of those topics which seems very trivial, and for those who have already done a build (or lots of builds) there is little to discuss.

However, I would be interested in whether this is just simply laying and gluing the velco in the depression in the wings and fuselage, or whether and improvements to this have been inbibed during the build process.

For example, I did read somewhere that some people cut the depressions deeper (one the wing or fuselage or both?)

I also read that some cut the depression mark longer (on all three surfaces? How long?)

Does anyone recommend gluing on end of the attaching strip to the wing velcro, so that it does not get lost and it acts as a point to pull against to fasten the wing tightly.

Oh yeah, and what glue should I be using here? Goop?

Many thanks for any tips.

PabloJaime
4th December 2017, 05:12 AM
Hi

OK this is one of those topics which seems very trivial, and for those who have already done a build (or lots of builds) there is little to discuss.

However, I would be interested in whether this is just simply laying and gluing the velco in the depression in the wings and fuselage, or whether and improvements to this have been inbibed during the build process.

For example, I did read somewhere that some people cut the depressions deeper (one the wing or fuselage or both?)

I also read that some cut the depression mark longer (on all three surfaces? How long?)

Does anyone recommend gluing on end of the attaching strip to the wing velcro, so that it does not get lost and it acts as a point to pull against to fasten the wing tightly.

Oh yeah, and what glue should I be using here? Goop?

Many thanks for any tips.

Hi!!
I just removed the lam from the small depression area and glued the velcro to the wing and fuse with goop, just don't let the goop reach the upper part of the velcro, meaning the side where the velcro sticks with the other velcro part.

Have Fun!!!
Pablo.

Hughie
4th December 2017, 05:18 AM
Hi!!
I just removed the lam from the small depression area and glued the velcro to the wing and fuse with goop, just don't let the goop reach the upper part of the velcro, meaning the side where the velcro sticks with the other velcro part.

Have Fun!!!
Pablo.

Thanks for the tip Pablo. No need to make the velcro go an inch further then?

PabloJaime
4th December 2017, 05:27 AM
Nop, I have like 10 flights on the MD and no problems with the velcro at all.

Hughie
4th December 2017, 05:30 AM
Thanks

Hoss
4th December 2017, 09:11 AM
Velcro is fine. Yes, you can go a little deeper than the existing depression just to be sure it'll be flush once completed and attached. There are also 3d parts available that use O rings to attach and other methods, but the Velcro works great and allows the wings to disconnect in a wreck, absorbing energy and often times saving the frame much damage. Another good idea is to glue the servo connector from the receiver or flight controller in the side of the fuse, sticking out slightly. Then cut out a pocket in the side of the wing where the servo wire comes out so you can connect the servo and stuff in the excess wire. That way, if the wing disconnects in a failed launch or crash, it doesn't rip the lead out of your controller, or worse, the servo.

Scott

Hughie
4th December 2017, 10:13 AM
Velcro is fine. Yes, you can go a little deeper than the existing depression just to be sure it'll be flush once completed and attached. There are also 3d parts available that use O rings to attach and other methods, but the Velcro works great and allows the wings to disconnect in a wreck, absorbing energy and often times saving the frame much damage. Another good idea is to glue the servo connector from the receiver or flight controller in the side of the fuse, sticking out slightly. Then cut out a pocket in the side of the wing where the servo wire comes out so you can connect the servo and stuff in the excess wire. That way, if the wing disconnects in a failed launch or crash, it doesn't rip the lead out of your controller, or worse, the servo.

Scott
Hi Scott. I have printed the dog bone 3d parts, but not really sure how they will perform so am planning to go with the velcro to start with. Thanks for the heads up on the servo interface on the fuselage, I have gone this route, so all should be good once I have added the velcro.

Thanks