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Liam
31st January 2015, 01:22 PM
I have come to a dead stop on my build, I am building an X8 with mine and have run into a problem. Seems that if you use a motor wider than 1 inch (I am using KV 650's) it covers up the mounting holes for the second motor underneath, unless you have a super small ratchet and use M3X7 socket or 2.0 mm wrench for the button heads to fit between the motors it is physically impossible to mount the second motor on the arm. Am I missing something really simple here

Hiway
31st January 2015, 08:12 PM
I am sorry Liam- I have been so wrapped up in alienwii and micros the past few days, I have lost track of the threads and forums a little. I have halted my Evo build temporarily as I am waiting on diode rectifiers for redundancy powering on the pixhawk servo rail.
I used a ball end hex on my assembly.http://kk.org/cooltools/files/2013/06/hex-2.jpg
and put the standoffs and bottom motor on the plate first, and then using the round motor adapter plate Aimdroix sells on top to clear the button screws I attached the top motor last- that is the trickiest part as you need to slowly, and deliberately tighten those screws to fix the motor carefully as you are working at an angle- the ball end hex driver makes that task easier. I imagine you may be able to find a small "offset hex" driver that might fit between those plates but I doubt it. I dabbed the screw in a tiny bit of loktite as shown in my vid, and it is tight- only flight testing will tell if it backs out but I am very confident it will not- I used pancake style motors- so they are wider than yours I believe.

*Maybe I should emphasize the round adapter plates Matt sells- they are for wider motors- did you get a set? Did you see the note in my build video? Is that not the problem and I misunderstood?

Liam
3rd February 2015, 06:55 AM
Thanks and it worked perfect, not as tight as I would like them to be but with loctite I am sure it will hold.
Again a Really sincere thanks.
Liam

Flateric
3rd February 2015, 04:10 PM
I found a ball end Hex driver to be essential for this also.

MAYMIDROIX
4th February 2015, 09:32 PM
I found a ball end Hex driver to be essential for this also.

Cool, where you got it. It might actually good to find a source for those.

Liam
6th February 2015, 12:07 PM
Yes, it worked well with the extra plates and the ball hex wrench, anybody got a picture of there ESC placement? Of course on mine I have 8 ESC's so I really don't want to sandwich them together, as I saw that on a factory built hex 8 from 3DR I am just too leary to do that, there might be excessive heat build up.
Liam

Liam
6th February 2015, 12:08 PM
Cool, where you got it. It might actually good to find a source for those.

Definitely include it in your build notes

Hiway
6th February 2015, 02:09 PM
I have tried several times to upload pics here, and to photobucket- something is haywire.
I am mounting esc's on the arms. You have plenty of room, and you can place 2 top and 2 under and stagger them. This will distribute weight excellent, and allow the deck to be free and clear top and bottom for battery options or accessories like gimbals.
I need to figure this upload issue and then can post pics.

MAYMIDROIX
6th February 2015, 06:15 PM
I have tried several times to upload pics here, and to photobucket- something is haywire.
I am mounting esc's on the arms. You have plenty of room, and you can place 2 top and 2 under and stagger them. This will distribute weight excellent, and allow the deck to be free and clear top and bottom for battery options or accessories like gimbals.
I need to figure this upload issue and then can post pics.
If you have the pictures in photobucket, there is an option somewhere where you just copy the URL and paste it here.

Hiway
6th February 2015, 09:54 PM
If you have the pictures in photobucket, there is an option somewhere where you just copy the URL and paste it here.
Yes- I know. I was having ISP problems- DNS server to be exact. All sorted.

Here are a few pics- sneak peeks as it were of my current build showing the esc's on the arms.

Please excuse my mess- I am one of those eccentric, genius, disorganized types minus the genius:
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu123/HiwaysBucket/20150206_201719_resized_zpsiuxobhon.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/HiwaysBucket/media/20150206_201719_resized_zpsiuxobhon.jpg.html)
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu123/HiwaysBucket/20150206_201743_resized_zpsz9nkdvac.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/HiwaysBucket/media/20150206_201743_resized_zpsz9nkdvac.jpg.html)

MAYMIDROIX
6th February 2015, 11:11 PM
wow you have a lot going on in that frame. Are you still going to install the batteries on the bottom?

Hiway
7th February 2015, 12:00 AM
wow you have a lot going on in that frame. Are you still going to install the batteries on the bottom?

Negative- they ride on the battery tray as designed. COG is dead nuts on the center of the pixhawk also. I can slide the bats forward and back to redistribute for the different gimbals. I can also add a third battery on the bottom and run parallel if I want- I doubt that is worth considering.

I have ez-uhf control, 5.8 video with it's own 3S lipo on the cam/fpv deck. There is a 3 axis gimbal underneath. The pixhawk has telemetry, and the additional red and black wiring is for the autentic marker lights I mentioned- red at port- green at starboard- 2 white beacons at tip with them, 2 white solid landing lights, and red beacons on the tail... in the night sky it will look legit.

The main wiring harness runs down the middle between the 2 lipos- there are (2) 5v BEC's and a 12v BEC in there- there are 5v BEC's on the esc's- I am waiting on a shotsky diode recitifier so I can build out the triple redundant powering for the pixhawk so it has the added failsafe. The 12v BEC powers the gimbal- one of the 5V BEC's powers the led marker system. I had this all drawn up before ever ordering the frame- all this gear came from my hex. The best part is I ended up cutting over 200 grams of wire weight off with this- but the frame ends up weighing in slightly over my previous hex... but only by the margin of the extra gopro and battery and technically a few grams lighter. Certainly a better design for how I used the craft I expect.

AUW on this without final maiden and confirmation but checked on the scales is at 3.73kg ... it's pretty brawny. Spinning options are 11.5 top and 10x5 below, or 12x6 top and 11x5 below - all Graupner CF balanced by yours truly. 8mm to 6mm prop ring adapters needed for the props on these Sunny Sky 380kv's.

Liam
7th February 2015, 07:37 PM
Hiway so you are using a pixhawk.....how would you compare it to the APM 2.6 from just a standard operators/pilots view?. The reason I ask is I have had to return 2 boards from 3DR and I am a really hesitant to pull the trigger on another one. First board HDOP stayed at 100.0 would not arm, second board had a voltage issue. After spending a lot of time on the phone with their tech's it was determined both were bad, I returned them and I am on my third board and now it will not arm. I have built 7 various quads with AMP 2.6 FC's for myself and friends and I have never run into this. I hope they are not starting to slip.
So sorry for the long winded explanation I am just asking around about using a different FC.
stay well
Liam

Hiway
7th February 2015, 07:49 PM
I can only rave over the pixhawk.

Considering this FC has withstood the original build fumbling on the original hex, 2 minor low altitude crashes when setting it up many months ago on that hex, dozens of successful flights and experimentation setting up autonomous flights with Mission Planner, superb video and function and reliability, and has bounced back from the epic 100 foot fall that was the impetus for this Aimdroix build, I do not think I could ask for more.

I had already decided that is the pixhawk was trashed in the fall that would be my choice despite the cost.

Now- with that said, and knowing the nature of open source and guessing at the future- I can not discount using the APM. Keep in mind that platform has reached it's ultimate conclusion, and while the pixhawk and P4 seem to be no different, it is what the future features and abilities that interested me in the pixhawk. More processing power.

I have seen some grumblings out here regarding pixhawks in recent times, but it seems to coincide with the uptick in custom builds using it. I am experienced enough to know that every piece of hardware has potential to be troublesome and that QC can, and does drop when demand jumps- but from my own anecdotal experiences, I see a lot of user error out there. The pixhawk is tricky. It requires certain safety considerations and lots of reading. Setting one up can be simple- but the GUI in MP is daunting to someone used to a KK board for example... or a Naza.

If you are more comfortable with APM then you should use that. "Better" is subjective and opinions are like assholes- we all got 'em.

courierdude
7th February 2015, 08:09 PM
I am sorry Liam- I have been so wrapped up in alienwii and micros the past few days, I have lost track of the threads and forums a little. I have halted my Evo build temporarily as I am waiting on diode rectifiers for redundancy powering on the pixhawk servo rail.
I used a ball end hex on my assembly.http://kk.org/cooltools/files/2013/06/hex-2.jpg
and put the standoffs and bottom motor on the plate first, and then using the round motor adapter plate Aimdroix sells on top to clear the button screws I attached the top motor last- that is the trickiest part as you need to slowly, and deliberately tighten those screws to fix the motor carefully as you are working at an angle- the ball end hex driver makes that task easier. I imagine you may be able to find a small "offset hex" driver that might fit between those plates but I doubt it. I dabbed the screw in a tiny bit of loktite as shown in my vid, and it is tight- only flight testing will tell if it backs out but I am very confident it will not- I used pancake style motors- so they are wider than yours I believe.

*Maybe I should emphasize the round adapter plates Matt sells- they are for wider motors- did you get a set? Did you see the note in my build video? Is that not the problem and I misunderstood?
Where are you getting the Diode rectifier's from. I just realised my ESC's don't have BEC's so I need a back up for my Pixhawk as well.

Hiway
7th February 2015, 10:04 PM
Where are you getting the Diode rectifier's from. I just realised my ESC's don't have BEC's so I need a back up for my Pixhawk as well.

I see you is way south.... and down under the down under in the land of Kiwi

here is a European ebay link: http://www.ebay.de/bhp/schottky-diode

USA supplier with no minimums: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/MBR1545CT/?qs=k9JhH1fM%252bD1Rtc3fk2FsXQ%3d%3d&gclid=CN2morig0cMCFSMV7Aod7VQAoA

courierdude
7th February 2015, 11:07 PM
I see you is way south.... and down under the down under in the land of Kiwi

here is a European ebay link: http://www.ebay.de/bhp/schottky-diode

USA supplier with no minimums: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/MBR1545CT/?qs=k9JhH1fM%252bD1Rtc3fk2FsXQ%3d%3d&gclid=CN2morig0cMCFSMV7Aod7VQAoA
Thanks for that. I was thinking about using one of these, https://www.pololu.com/product/2107.
Just hook it into one of the ESC servo leads. Did you say you had triple redundancy? What is the other one. 1/ Power module 2/ Your diode 3/ ?

Liam
16th February 2015, 06:49 PM
I am taking your advice, I stuck with the APM. Sat down the other day and was determined to get it working and I did. Seems a simple mistake was made on my end in the radio settings, Aileron, Rudder and Elevator need to be reversed on the radio, I blew right past it. Did the maiden works great. Onward through the fog!
Stay well
Liam
-20 wind chill tonight burr

Hiway
19th February 2015, 12:10 PM
Thanks for that. I was thinking about using one of these, https://www.pololu.com/product/2107.
Just hook it into one of the ESC servo leads. Did you say you had triple redundancy? What is the other one. 1/ Power module 2/ Your diode 3/ ?
Sorry courierdude- I totally missed this post.

I have 5v from the main harness via heavy duty BEC going to the powermodule for main powering. I have another lead off the harness to another heavy duty 5v BEC, and 1 of the 40amp 5v BEC"s both feeding into a shottky diode rectifier which determines which BEC is passing the higher voltage of the 2 and passes it- should one of those 2 BEC's fail, the rectifier will grab the other.

Hiway
19th February 2015, 12:12 PM
I am taking your advice, I stuck with the APM. Sat down the other day and was determined to get it working and I did. Seems a simple mistake was made on my end in the radio settings, Aileron, Rudder and Elevator need to be reversed on the radio, I blew right past it. Did the maiden works great. Onward through the fog!
Stay well
Liam
-20 wind chill tonight burr

WOOT! Great news and the APM allows for mavlink. Flying with fire now!

Djinnphiz
28th August 2015, 11:24 PM
The multiplicity of ESCs required for an X8-build made me choose to go with the EMAX 4-in-1 units. I have used these paired-up on an AD-1 in a similar manner. Wiring it all together is a tussle – but in the end works out neater. However, the capacitors stick out from the ESC housings and are "delicate" – one came unsoldered and it was a royal bitch to re-do it. Handle with care and protect them.

I was hoping to stack my two ESCs on the "lower deck" – however – and unfortunately – the space between the undercarriage plate and the one above is just not quite enough. Consequently the EMAX units occupy virtually the whole of the first level space... Still building – but when nearer completion, will post some pics.

Re EMAX-4-in-1 units: I've read both good and bad about these and my own experience has tended to confirm that occasionally one can get a bad unit and one of the four boards can burn out: this happened on my AD-1.

The one advantage is that spares are available and they really do plug-in and out very easily. Again – beware the capacitors: I had one unit arrive with the capacitor actually rattling around in the box. HeadsUpRC – the supplier – immediately changed it out against sending back the defective unit.

If I get the lift I'm both expecting and hoping – as per the Designer's advice – I am intending to flip the camera-carrying plate upside down – for more down-clearance – so that I can fit a 3-axis Feiyu G3 Gimbal for GoPro 4... It may well be that I will need to go for some Motors with a bit more grunt than the current Emax 650 Kva driven by their currently intended 11" x 4.7 Tiger props... I guess I'lll just have to see.

Currently intending a Wookong M2 – but might just change that for something else – like the a Super X... (So far its working really well on the Octo-8 AD-1).

Flateric
29th August 2015, 07:10 PM
I choose to mount my ESC's to the sides of the arms with braided motor wiring. It is my belief that this allows for a little additional airflow and efficiency. Also keeps the weight towards the centre of the frame rather than further out and away on the arms. Cooling is excellent as well and I am using 16" props on both top and bottom motors with the extended arms in a Y6 arrangement.

my flight controller is the pixhack with an m8n gps.

I am using a G3 ultra gimbal and really prefer it over my zenmuse H3-3D gimbal that cost me more and offers less while requiring additionally more expensive DJI equipment.

6583965840

MAYMIDROIX
29th August 2015, 07:24 PM
The multiplicity of ESCs required for an X8-build made me choose to go with the EMAX 4-in-1 units. I have used these paired-up on an AD-1 in a similar manner. Wiring it all together is a tussle but in the end works out neater. However, the capacitors stick out from the ESC housings and are "delicate" one came unsoldered and it was a royal bitch to re-do it. Handle with care and protect them.

I was hoping to stack my two ESCs on the "lower deck" however and unfortunately the space between the undercarriage plate and the one above is just not quite enough. Consequently the EMAX units occupy virtually the whole of the first level space... Still building but when nearer completion, will post some pics.

Re EMAX-4-in-1 units: I've read both good and bad about these and my own experience has tended to confirm that occasionally one can get a bad unit and one of the four boards can burn out: this happened on my AD-1.

The one advantage is that spares are available and they really do plug-in and out very easily. Again beware the capacitors: I had one unit arrive with the capacitor actually rattling around in the box. HeadsUpRC the supplier immediately changed it out against sending back the defective unit.

If I get the lift I'm both expecting and hoping as per the Designer's advice I am intending to flip the camera-carrying plate upside down for more down-clearance so that I can fit a 3-axis Feiyu G3 Gimbal for GoPro 4... It may well be that I will need to go for some Motors with a bit more grunt than the current Emax 650 Kva driven by their currently intended 11" x 4.7 Tiger props... I guess I'lll just have to see.

Currently intending a Wookong M2 but might just change that for something else like the a Super X... (So far its working really well on the Octo-8 AD-1).

I think that if you install the battery under the bottom plate with the 3d printed battery mount that I make, it will be very easy to install the 2 4in1 escs between the top and bottom plate.

Djinnphiz
29th August 2015, 08:01 PM
I think that if you install the battery under the bottom plate with the 3d printed battery mount that I make, it will be very easy to install the 2 4in1 escs between the top and bottom plate.

My "bad"... I should have stated that I originally was hoping to stack the two ESC's one on top of the other – and so have the mass well situated at the CG... However, there is about 2mm missing between the two plates that disallows this possibility: unless removing the EMAX's screws that hold the lid to the machined body of the unit and which protrude through from front to back.

In fact – as you do indeed say – there is sufficient space to fit them facing each other – capacitors inwards-directed towards each other – between the bottom and top boards. However, the 24 wires required for the 8 motors is what makes it all a very tight fit.

But it does work out OK with some judicious space-planning.

Liam
1st September 2015, 08:36 AM
Djinnphiz, KVA 650 did not cut it for me I used 15x5.5 and still it barely lifted the x8. go with the big KVA 350 or 250 pancake motors that is the only way to get this very over weight frame off the ground and get decent flight times as well
stay well
Liam

Djinnphiz
1st September 2015, 12:59 PM
Djinnphiz, KVA 650 did not cut it for me I used 15x5.5 and still it barely lifted the x8. go with the big KVA 350 or 250 pancake motors that is the only way to get this very over weight frame off the ground and get decent flight times as well
stay well
Liam

Thanks for that, Liam...If I go for the Tiger Antigravity 4006 Motors I'm looking at $600 for the set... (Any other suggestions...?)

Then I presume I'll have to change-out my EMAX 4-1 ESCs for the 30 Amp versions – which may not be enough...(?) What are you using as a combination of Motor / ESC / Prop (brand)...?

Plus the props cost and changing over to 6S cells for the 24V the T-motors require – which I don't "get" as, if they need 24v, where is that going to come from when a 22v, 6000 mAh 6s is going to be "underpowered" and also already weighs 930gms...!

Seems that all-in-all this is a much more expensive kit to get flying than it has been suggested by the manufacturer... Your commentary and further input appreciated...

Liam
2nd September 2015, 11:46 AM
Thanks for that, Liam...If I go for the Tiger Antigravity 4006 Motors I'm looking at $600 for the set... (Any other suggestions...?)

Then I presume I'll have to change-out my EMAX 4-1 ESCs for the 30 Amp versions which may not be enough...(?) What are you using as a combination of Motor / ESC / Prop (brand)...?

Plus the props cost and changing over to 6S cells for the 24V the T-motors require which I don't "get" as, if they need 24v, where is that going to come from when a 22v, 6000 mAh 6s is going to be "underpowered" and also already weighs 930gms...!

Seems that all-in-all this is a much more expensive kit to get flying than it has been suggested by the manufacturer... Your commentary and further input appreciated...

Djinnphiz yes way more expensive, Ok here was the config I was using, APM 2.6 flight controller/8 30amp spider ESC's flashed simonK with 8-KVA 650 tiger motors and 15x5.5 Gemfan props. Maiden flight it barley lifted out of its prop wash and ate the battery power up within a matter of minutes (5000Mah) note no go pro was attached at the time. I have some real questions for the guy who designed this, being almost all metal its lift to weight ratio is very hard to over come. Unlike my other quads this build is VERY costly and wasteful as far as money spent in trail and error testing. I am considering ordering KVA 300 tiger anti gravity 4004 but I am really hesitant on pulling the trigger due to past experiences. (Hiway if you read this please comment)
Liam

Liam
2nd September 2015, 11:48 AM
I might just change it over to a quad

Djinnphiz
2nd September 2015, 04:27 PM
Liam...

The Tiger Motor 650's are (a) lighter and (b) better performing than the Emax 650s that I bought for this project – so I guess I have little hope at all in seeing this thing fly in its existing iteration :))

So – next step – as I'm determined to make it work :)) Reconfiguration as follows:

– Tiger MB 4006 x 380 kv – 66 gms each and 16A continuous current – so I can stay with the existing EMAX 4-in1 25A ESCs. ($600 + $60)
– Props: Quanum 15 x 4.5 CF - pancake designed. ($50 for the 8)
– LiPo: 8000 mAh 4S 10C ($90)
– SPRacing F3 Flight Controller ($80)
– Command-and-Control TX: ImmersionRC 433 Mhz ($90) / (Taranis 9 Plus TX) / Horizon Antennas "Mini Gate" ($50)
– Command-and-Control RX: ImmersionRC EzUHF diversity Rx ($125) with 2 x Active Robots 433Mr antenna – on aircraft ($18)
– Other bits and pieces – BECs, Power Distribution Board, LEDs, Led Switch, Video Switch etc. – $120 approx)
– (EVO One kit - $170.00)

– Ground Station 2.4 Ghz FPV: (2) x ImmersionRC UNO 2400 ($120) > Oracle Diversity RX ($110?) – with Horizon Antenna BLACKHAWK RHCP Spiral and NIMROD ($80)
– FPV VTX: (To be decided)

I had bought a 3-axis Feiyu-Tech Go-Pro-4 gimbal for this ($250?) – but I'm wondering if the above combination will even have enough "oumph" to let that happen... We will see. It also means reversing the camera tray upside down to get the clearance...

(Prices approx. and from memory)

Works out at not a particularly cheap project... (Even though for FPV the Ground Station serves multiple aircraft with all-diversity 1.2 Ghz, 2.4 Ghz and 5.8 Ghz options.).

... I guess I have to put the stake in somewhere and start making it happen :) [And if it doesn't handle well, then I'll swop out these new motors motors to another Octo-8 project. As for the Emax's – Umm... "Stock" draw, I guess :))]

By-the-by: I'm also building one of the AIMDROIX Blackhawk 250's – and have had to do quite a bit of mods on the frame to get everything that I want on it. MY choice, however: I'm not looking for a "Racer" profile on that one – but more a "Mini Video Scouting" platform.

Using:
– T-Motor (x 4) 2000 kv
– ESCs: Simon-K flashed, 12 amp, one shot
– SPRacing F3 Flight Controller
– FrSky 8XR Rx / Taranis 9 Plus TX
– FPV: ImmersionRC 700 mw VTX x 5.8 Mhz – Horizon Antennas RHCP "Mini NIMROD" (for range and signal viability – even though flight profile will rarely be more than 1.5 kms)
– FPV Groundstation: FrSky 632 Diversity RX / Horizon Antennas RHCP "Mini Blackhawk" 12 Db gain + Horizon Antennas "Mini NIMROD"
– ... into Fatshark Dominator (direct V-signal connect).

The point is I DO like many of the AIMDROIX design and build concepts – the tilting motors possibility on the 250 Blackhawk and the solidity of the undercarriage on the EVO ONE, are two examples. However – they ARE both relatively "heavy" and need a LOT of grunt, it would seem.

Maybe making the EVO ONE as an Octo-8 with the extended arms was perhaps not such a good idea after all. But then again, I can't help wondering (realistically, that is – as opposed to Manufacturer's suggestions) – as to what size motors/batteries etc. are required on an EVO ONE X4 config to make it work in any kind of "at-all spunky" manner...

It would be REALLY good to hear the experiences of other EVO ONE builders – (and also any BLACKHAWK 250 owners – though there is a specific thread for those).

Djinnphiz
2nd September 2015, 04:29 PM
Liam – re going Quad: Let us know what you end up doing..!! :)))

I'm sure we'd all be very interested to read your comments if you go this route and there must also be other builders here who have already finished X4s...

(Though – logically – an X8 "ought" to offer a lot more power-to-weight grunt... It certainly did for my AD-1...)

Nevertheless, this may be the end-game solution. It has also occurred to me as an eventual possibility: after all, the had manufacturer originally designed it as an X4: with an X8 option.

[I get the feeling we are perhaps breaking new – maybe even inappropriate – ground by trying to go X8 with this model :)) ]

MAYMIDROIX
2nd September 2015, 04:39 PM
Djinnphiz, KVA 650 did not cut it for me I used 15x5.5 and still it barely lifted the x8. go with the big KVA 350 or 250 pancake motors that is the only way to get this very over weight frame off the ground and get decent flight times as well
stay well
Liam
Can you post pictures and the complete configuration that you where using? What 650kv motors were you using?

To use 350kv motors you'll need to use a 6s battery.

Djinnphiz
2nd September 2015, 06:00 PM
Mike (AIMDROIX)

I'm still building – so not finished.

They were/are EMAX 650 KVAs with 11.5 x 4.7 EMAX props – came as a combo with the 4-1in-1 EScs – which I knew and liked.

I'll post some pics when I've received the T-Motors – and also do a couple of the set-up as it is right now : with just the 650 motors and ESCs assembled – after the weekend...

Re T-motors with 6s – not necessarily so: at least, according to T-Motor specs (as I have understood them) as per below:

Specifications:KV................................. .................................................. ........................380
Stator Diameter.......................................... .........................................40mm
Shaft Diameter.......................................... .............................................4mm
Motor Dimension(Dia.*Len)............................... .....................Φ44.3521mm
Weight(g)......................................... .................................................. .....66g
No.of Cells(Lipo)....................................... ...........................................4-6S
Max Continuous current(A)180S.................................... .......................16A
Max. efficiency current........................................... ..................(2-5A)>92%

MAYMIDROIX
2nd September 2015, 09:21 PM
Djinnphiz, KVA 650 did not cut it for me I used 15x5.5 and still it barely lifted the x8. go with the big KVA 350 or 250 pancake motors that is the only way to get this very over weight frame off the ground and get decent flight times as well
stay well
Liam

what's your total weight? I would like to see the specs of those 650kv motors that you are using with 15in props. 650kv and 15in props might be overkill but it depends on the motors specs.

For an X8 I would use these props http://www.rctimer.com/product-1192.html with these motors, http://www.rctimer.com/product-575.html, these ESCs
http://www.rctimer.com/product-1323.html with a 6s battery configuration. I use these motors on the Y6s that I build with 15in props and they have been working great for about a year now. They might not be the most efficient but for the price they do the work. The total of these electronics for the x8 is $289 plus shipping.

On a coax multirotor you can afford to loose a motor in flight and still be able to land safely so I fly worry free with that onfiguration. Still I haven't have a failure. (knocking on wood right now. lol). I get about 18min with a 6s 5,100 mah battery.

MAYMIDROIX
2nd September 2015, 10:02 PM
Djinnphiz yes way more expensive, Ok here was the config I was using, APM 2.6 flight controller/8 30amp spider ESC's flashed simonK with 8-KVA 650 tiger motors and 15x5.5 Gemfan props. Maiden flight it barley lifted out of its prop wash and ate the battery power up within a matter of minutes (5000Mah) note no go pro was attached at the time. I have some real questions for the guy who designed this, being almost all metal its lift to weight ratio is very hard to over come. Unlike my other quads this build is VERY costly and wasteful as far as money spent in trail and error testing. I am considering ordering KVA 300 tiger anti gravity 4004 but I am really hesitant on pulling the trigger due to past experiences. (Hiway if you read this please comment)
Liam

All multirotor builds are expensive thus you need to do some research about what you'll buy to make sure that it will work. The Evo quad frame weights about 730g. It's actually lighter than the $700 skyhero frame kit that weights 880g. Are you using the arms extension to fit the 15in props? as the quad frame only fits 14in props. If your x8 is not lifting it means that the motors you choose are really low in power as I've seen that it's not hard to lift a 730g frame. Can you post the lift data of those motors? Usually tiger motors provide the thrust data. As your motors are the issue, you can replace them with these http://www.rctimer.com/product-914.html. They are only $18 and in an X8 configuration they will definitely do the work with a 4s battery and the ESCs that you have.

One of the most important specs to look at when buying a motor for a build is the thrust data provided by the manufacturer. You can easily estimate the total weight of your build to calculate how much lift you'll need.

Here are other customers Evo quad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zmJZK1up84

X8 quad

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkcTrUjnamc

Here is my quad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj_Kv_zu7YY

MAYMIDROIX
2nd September 2015, 10:05 PM
Liam re going Quad: Let us know what you end up doing..!! :)))

I'm sure we'd all be very interested to read your comments if you go this route and there must also be other builders here who have already finished X4s...

(Though logically an X8 "ought" to offer a lot more power-to-weight grunt... It certainly did for my AD-1...)

Nevertheless, this may be the end-game solution. It has also occurred to me as an eventual possibility: after all, the had manufacturer originally designed it as an X4: with an X8 option.

[I get the feeling we are perhaps breaking new maybe even inappropriate ground by trying to go X8 with this model :)) ]


X8 flying for about 20 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Oinwd1Wps

Djinnphiz
3rd September 2015, 03:50 AM
Mike (AIMDROIX) – in answer to your commentary…


• A combination of (8) x the 380kv RCTimer motors plus (8) x 30 amp RCtimer ESCs – as per your suggestion – weights 434 gms MORE than the equivalent using T-Motor MN4006 and Emax 4-in-1 ESCs…


However, yes, there is a saving of approximately $240 for the first combination over the T-Motor combination.


Using a 4S LiPo at 14.8v and 15.5” prop, the thrust of each motor at the same ampage output – x 8 – is approximately 3Kgs LESS for the first combination than the second.


I think you should agree that this is a serious consideration in terms of having “lift to spare” for other add-ons – such as cameras etc.


Bottom line – and in simple terms – the T-Motors are lighter (by half), more expensive by a factor of around 4x but also give approximately 30% more lift under similar conditions.


So “yer pays yer money an' you takes yer choice”.


Personally, I would take T-Motor engineering excellence and mechanical quality / component longevity / design smarts etc most times as a long-term choice over anything else.


NOT that :”anything else is necessarily “bad” – just that T-Motors set a certain quality / performance benchmark. At a price.




• The EMAX MT-3506 x 650 kKv motor combination – with props and ESCs that were all supplied together and which I took for this project as offered at the time – was a very price-effective option and worked out at about 20% more cost outlay that what you are suggesting.


They offer around 660 gms of thrust at a similar ampage point (5amps) – BUT with a max sized prop of 13" x 4.


Essentially I bought them on the basis that if they initially worked for the EVO One, all well-and-good. I liked the EVO One frame, design and undercarriage solidity – as you know and we have already discussed. However, until I saw it fly, I wasn’t going to initially invest too heavily in it.


So – on that basis – if the MT-3506 don’t have enough grunt for the EVO – that is OK as well… I was quite prepared to port-over and use them on another smaller 500 size "home design prootype" project also under construction.

So for “me” and my pruposes, they were a relatively cheaply-priced, somewhat run-of-the-mill experimental “stock” set of units that could be used elsewhere.



• By preference, all my builds are based on T-Motors of one kind or another. Why..? Because my past experience is that (a) they work, (b) they are better engineered than any other brand I have tried to date, and (c) weight-for-weight they usually produce from 25% > 45% more thrust.


… But – again – “yes” they are also on average from 40 > 60% more expensive.


The EMAX MT-3506 may well have worked OK on the EVO ONE – but having read Liam’s experiences, I don’t feel like building the EVO based on these and then having to re-build with more powerful T-Motors later. So I’ll just wait till they get here and start again from scratch based on the new T-Motor combination.


I might, however, consider your suggested ESCs as they are indeed half the weight and also one-shot – as compared to the EMAX 4-in-1s. So that suggestion at least is viable and worth thanking you for.


Finally – this is about as much as I intend to write on the subject for now – until I have something to show ready-built and worth discussing in terms of evaluative performance.