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ritewing
7th January 2016, 02:36 PM
Hi guys, here is the startings of the Drak build thread, I will be working with Dale to get the info down .
http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?45648-62-quot-Molded-Ritewing-Build-amp-Info

livesimply
7th January 2016, 03:27 PM
Sounds good, any one else, let me know because if we want to get these made before Chinese New Year we have to do it ASAP

Yes, I need a couple 8400s.

richardhageman74
7th January 2016, 03:43 PM
Just recieved mine in the Netherlands. Damn Chris, f€#@ good job man, getting this done during the Holiday season. All Parts are included and in good shape.

Maj.Duty
7th January 2016, 03:49 PM
Dang, you guys are killin' me. Netherlands got yours? I'm just a couple states over in CA and still waiting with baited breath. Most anticipated RC package ever.

richardhageman74
7th January 2016, 04:02 PM
69276[emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1]

Hoss
7th January 2016, 04:07 PM
69276[emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1]
Looks like the cage is too small for your Dragon.

ritewing
7th January 2016, 05:09 PM
Hey buddy what was your invoice number again, I will track it for you. I could have sworn it gone out and I want to make sure.

hjscm
7th January 2016, 05:28 PM
mine is on its way where are you in CA major? if close i can get you mine till yours comes?

richardhageman74
7th January 2016, 05:41 PM
Looks like the cage is too small for your Dragon.
Unleash the Beast

Maj.Duty
7th January 2016, 05:57 PM
mine is on its way where are you in CA major? if close i can get you mine till yours comes?
LOL you're joking, right? I'm an hour and half from you near Sacramento so pretty close. About an hour twenty from you

I appreciate that but you keep yours. Maybe we can chase each other around sometime though, when we get them built.

#1928

ginger1302
7th January 2016, 05:59 PM
It should be here any minute. Im getting so impatient.

oleg_t
7th January 2016, 06:18 PM
Hi guys, here is the startings of the Drak build thread, I will be working with Dale to get the info down .
http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?45648-62-quot-Molded-Ritewing-Build-amp-Info
Good stuff! Chris, would you include some general info as well? I mentioned on this a couple of pages back:


And would be good to have like a wiki on a first page with most important information for the dummies, like main specs, prop size, CG position, build tutorials, hints, etc etc.

ritewing
7th January 2016, 06:42 PM
Well ya, thats what the build thread is for:p

ritewing
7th January 2016, 08:26 PM
This is what we were doing today, all of this shipped out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160108/1221a0b4f33e08100dabeebe13cf0160.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160108/e2aa0363f94129d658b55958fee2d2a5.jpg

TheBender
7th January 2016, 08:29 PM
Hope I am in there... wanted to build mine to fly at CFLFPV in February...

Tomstoy
7th January 2016, 08:40 PM
Nubbs cut off, check.

Sanding done, check.

Now off to work. Damn work,,, always getting in the way!

ginger1302
7th January 2016, 09:17 PM
Hey I just unpacked the box. Plane seems very tough. This epp is pretty great. I think it will be hard to damage. I was also pretty impressed with how everything was packed. All the components were really secure and I like how some of the parts I would have expected to be rattling around the box were hot glued to the side. Its a good introduction to the type of quality I can expect from your company. Ill post more as I start on it. Looks like I have everything except the glue and plastidip. I am grabbing the glue tonight and Ill pick up the plastidip tomorrow. Hopefully I will have it mostly put together by the end of the weekend. Lucky for me I am dropping the gf off at the airport and have nothing else to do but work on it.

Maj.Duty
7th January 2016, 10:30 PM
69299The new Drak is here, the new Drak is here! It's huge. Takes up my whole island (building board)

Thank you, Chris.

Before picture:

HFMan
7th January 2016, 11:22 PM
Yep- my Drak has landed as well. My oh my, this is going to be FUN to build!

69303

zbemerson
8th January 2016, 12:03 AM
Man I couldn't be more jealous.. I better see some good unboxing/build vids soon!

ritewing
8th January 2016, 12:06 AM
That would be good, and unboxing video with a very first impressions

ginger1302
8th January 2016, 12:19 AM
How do you like to mount the batteries in there? Just some velcro and a filler on top to help hold it down? I don't plan on doing any major negative Gs but I would hate the batteries to fly out lol.

Tomstoy
8th January 2016, 12:29 AM
I intend to gorilla glue some velcro in there along with a strap or 2.

ritewing
8th January 2016, 12:34 AM
No gorilla, use hot glue or goop, or both. Or do like me and don't use anything but a few foam wedges made from the bay block, then stick some velcro on the back retainer block to hold the batt in place. I made that bat bay filler block specifically for adjusting bat holding and support.

Hmerly
8th January 2016, 12:58 AM
first look at the foam not done by Chris.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOu6AtMXSmE

ritewing
8th January 2016, 01:03 AM
FYI I do not approve of some of the build suggestions in this vid. Take it with a grain of salt, I have built a lot of these already and will be showing you the rite way to do it.

terbeaux
8th January 2016, 03:26 AM
Received my Drak yesterday with black coro thank you very much. Wow! If this thing flies 1/2 as good as it looks, just wow.
Few questions: What is the CG location? Has the wing area been calculated yet? If so what is it?

ritewing
8th January 2016, 03:42 AM
See the new build thread, it being worked on now

xmimx
8th January 2016, 05:10 AM
Damn, why did I wait until mid July to order mine... (note for later, don't listen to your wife anymore)

oleg_t
8th January 2016, 05:59 AM
According to the tracking info my Drak just departed from London. Looks like its a last hop before it appears in my city, so today/max tmrw - Surprise! Honey, please meet my new plane. I've been waiting for it for one year��

route81
8th January 2016, 07:13 AM
Just FYI,

USPS delivered the box with the Drak yesterday here in Switzerland.
Don't know if it's one of the first overseas shippings to be delivered , just wanted to say that it looked like Chris had just finished packing it.
No signs of damage to the box, everything inside was neatly packed with foam protection film and exactly where it was put by Chris.

j.

rank
8th January 2016, 07:22 AM
Please guys, someone, measure the dimensions of the fuselage and the wings.
Thanks!

Hoss
8th January 2016, 10:29 AM
What is the secret to getting good corrugated plastic? The stuff Chris and a couple other manufacturers send out is nice. The 4 mil is stiff and durable, but the stuff you see in the big box stores is soft and flimsy. There's plenty of options online to buy, but there's no way to tell if what you're going to get is going to be the good stuff or the soft crap. Is there a secret or a certain spot to go to get decent material?

I ask because it's super handy and I like to build. Would like to have some on hand and have a couple things that could use some at the moment. Thanks for any help in my off-topic adventures :)

Btw, pictures do absolutely no justice. The Drak is absolutely massive. I thought I had a grip on how big it was going to be, I was very surprised to actually see it in person. It's a giant. Awesome...

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 11:45 AM
How are you guys planning on making the structure for the inserts in the central bay? I see the two obvious holes for the inserts in the port and starboard bay but I'm curious what's being done for the center section. I had one more question but I don't recall it at the moment :p

kross1
8th January 2016, 12:04 PM
Please guys, someone, measure the dimensions of the fuselage and the wings.
Thanks!

Late tonight. Mine is being delivered today.

Marc Booth
8th January 2016, 12:06 PM
Another Drak landed in the UK today.

This thing is nothing less than SPECTACULAR!! Thank you for all the hard work that everyone has put into this. Amazed!

Unfortunately I have to put mine back in it's box for the next few months while I'm out of the country with work. F**k you ISIS, You're Boring!!

693146931569316

kross1
8th January 2016, 12:08 PM
How are you guys planning on making the structure for the inserts in the central bay? I see the two obvious holes for the inserts in the port and starboard bay but I'm curious what's being done for the center section. I had one more question but I don't recall it at the moment :p

I may be misunderstanding your question, but the middle section is hollow, filled with a very large removable plug.

This plug can be cut up to make dividers as desired, such as a firewall to block batteries into place.

Roboforcer X2000
8th January 2016, 12:18 PM
I'm out of the country with work. F**k you ISIS, You're Boring!!
If you're bored working for ISIS then change your job:) I'd advise to do so anyway as they don't provide pension scheme and life insurance...

Hoss
8th January 2016, 12:19 PM
I may be miss understanding your question, but the middle section is hollow, filled with a very large removable plug.

This plug can be cut up to make dividers as desired, such as a firewall to block batteries into place.
I think what he was getting at is just that the bay covers require that there are dividers in order to install them, so was wondering what the ideas were around that. Not so much that you can make dividers, but that you have to... Yeah, plug is most certainly the best option for that. I'm sure the process will be covered by Chris in a future tutorial. I almost don't even want to cut the plug... Such nice damn foam. It just feels good to even hold.

How does the gopro fit in there? Guess some meat will need to come off the nose to fit the cap? Such a nice plane.

kross1
8th January 2016, 12:52 PM
DELIVERED! And my wife brought it in, no worries about "porch-pirates" that way.

And I'm stuck at work for another 5 hours.

*cough* *cough*.... might be contageous... better leave for everone else's safety... *cough* *cough*

Marc Booth
8th January 2016, 12:56 PM
*cough* *cough*.... might be contageous... better leave for everone else's safety... *cough* *cough*

Might try that one all next week!

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 01:46 PM
I think what he was getting at is just that the bay covers require that there are dividers in order to install them, so was wondering what the ideas were around that. Not so much that you can make dividers, but that you have to... Yeah, plug is most certainly the best option for that. I'm sure the process will be covered by Chris in a future tutorial. I almost don't even want to cut the plug... Such nice damn foam. It just feels good to even hold.

How does the gopro fit in there? Guess some meat will need to come off the nose to fit the cap? Such a nice plane.

Yeah that was my question – if the idea is to slice off pieces of the plug to make a bulkhead where the two rear coro pieces will screw to. It looks like there is just enough material from the fat part of the plug to do this. A balsa bulkhead would work too so I was curious what others have done or are planning to do, as there is more than one way to skin a Drak and it is interesting to hear what people come up with.

I know what you mean, Hoss, about not wanting to cut up that plug! It’s such a nice piece of foam block right now.

For size reference, here is a picture of two 4600mAh 5S batteries in the skinny part of the bay. There looks to be more than 1/2” of room to spare.

The other picture, just out of curiosity, is of two 4600mAh 6S batteries. They have fuzzy Velcro on them making them even fatter and they fit in the bay perfectly. Needless to say there is ample room for your stuff in this bird.

richardhageman74
8th January 2016, 02:11 PM
Chris, what should be the travel on the elevons?

ritewing
8th January 2016, 02:15 PM
When they're at the neutral position when you give up full elevator you should only have around a half inch deflection up and a half inch deflection down. I will have a free flight trim jig PDF in the manual. After you set CG you can set your control services at this point and it will fly out of your hands like butter

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 02:33 PM
Oh! I remember my other question now. Are you guys going to whack off your servo mounting ears or leave them on and burn or cut a channel into the foam for those tabs to slide into?

ritewing
8th January 2016, 02:35 PM
Yes we cut or sand off and sand down smooth , the ball joint goes on the servo horn low the clevis get soldered on the horn on the Elevon at top hole

oleg_t
8th January 2016, 02:43 PM
Chris, btw - what's the pros of placing servo horizontally vs inserting vertically? Does it give any better kinematics or so you don't have the whole servo top with horn exposed?

ritewing
8th January 2016, 02:47 PM
You can place it however you want, personally I think that I think the servo looks like s*** placed like that,it looks more like Hobby grade. All that garbage hanging above the aircraft spinning instead of pulling. These control surfaces don't have to move very much to begin with. I have the servo slot that fits perfectly like this , if you do it the way you want you have another big gap you need to fill and modifications that you'll have to do to it. Then it looks like a foamy you built out of depron

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 02:57 PM
It's funny all the little details that have to be figured out now. It's the fun part for me, actually. Like, how am I going to secure my clover leaf antenna? That's a rhetorical question. I'll figure it out and or copy someone else but it is those build details I'm faced with now as I get ready to build this beauty.

oleg_t
8th January 2016, 03:36 PM
Oh no, I'm not going to place it vertically as I don't like it also, just wanted to hear you opinion on this, just in case. Anyway, we're on the same page with you. Thx for the bright explanation ��

P.S. Actually I'm looking for a way to hide/cover these parts (horns/rod) completely to make it clean and protected. Unfortunately did not come up with anything practical except some fiber glass cover.

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 03:50 PM
Is there a programming card somewhere for this ESC?

ritewing
8th January 2016, 04:07 PM
Oh no, I'm not going to place it vertically as I don't like it also, just wanted to hear you opinion on this, just in case. Anyway, we're on the same page with you. Thx for the bright explanation 😊

P.S. Actually I'm looking for a way to hide/cover these parts (horns/rod) completely to make it clean and protected. Unfortunately did not come up with anything practical except some fiber glass cover.
If you use flexi rod, and sink the servos deeper then you can bury everything and keep the servos and only have the rods come out about 2 inches from the trailing edge

ritewing
8th January 2016, 04:07 PM
Is there a programming card somewhere for this ESC?
It doesn't need to be programmed, it's already pre programmed for the motor and the setup

oleg_t
8th January 2016, 04:24 PM
Thanks, will check out flexi rods and try somehow. Not on my first Drak though.

RE: ESC. is it preprogrammed with brake on throttle off?

ritewing
8th January 2016, 04:35 PM
Yes break on when power off

Håvard Støre
8th January 2016, 04:51 PM
I almost don't even want to cut the plug... Such nice damn foam. It just feels good to even hold.

Stop caressing it you pervert. cut and goop:)

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 04:55 PM
So when you guys are landing are you looking to see the position of the prop and if it is vertical you bump the throttle trying to get it to stop horizontally?
Or do you simply bring it on in regardless the position of the prop?

With brake on, can it freewheel in the wind or is it kind of locked stopped?

Håvard Støre
8th January 2016, 04:58 PM
You just land. The prop moves horizontally by itself as it touches ground. Its not locked.

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 05:01 PM
Thank you,
Is the brake primarily for folding props, then?

Hoss
8th January 2016, 05:06 PM
Stop caressing it you pervert. cut and goop:)
This whole kit is like a piece of art. I'm like putting the fuse down on a mattress rather than the floor, even after watching Chris body slam it and nothing happening to it. It is just really, really nice.

I will say, I saw in a video posted here yesterday someone saying that if you wanted to go fast that you need to upgrade the spars to something stronger. I'm willing to bet that if you glued this frame together and didn't even put the spars in that you could successfully fly it. I'm not saying like, reliably... But I think this foam is so strong (and so thick in places) that it could successfully fly unsparred. Add in the massive spars it comes with, slightly thin or not, and there is absolutely no way you're breaking / damaging them with flight forces. I'll be sure to prove that in my next video. Probably with many more forces than the ones endured in flight ;)

Maj.Duty
8th January 2016, 05:10 PM
That video called into question the integrity of the sparring? Wow. Tempted to challenge someone to break it, properly assembled, with just flight forces. I'll give you mine if you can break it

Hoss
8th January 2016, 05:10 PM
Thank you,
Is the brake primarily for folding props, then?
The break stops the prop if you need it stopped abruptly for safety as well as prevents "propping" (fast moving prop due to no brake - loose motor) if you don't enable the brake, there's a decent chance of breaking the prop on each and every landing as you're coming in with that thing moving pretty fast. Almost as if you're coming in under power.

HFMan
8th January 2016, 05:35 PM
Yep - brake saves props, and you don't need to ensure prop is horizontal for landing. I'm still using the original prop on my Z3 (1 year now) and my other wings (almost two years). They simply never break if you don't dork it in... There is an extremely remote case where you might break a prop on landing, but it's very very rare- a landing where your landing puts zero rotational force on a vertical prop and simply snaps the blade. This basically never happens.

Hoss
8th January 2016, 05:43 PM
^ agreed. Aside from nasty crashes that broke many things, including my prop, I've only really broken a prop once (on an airplane that is) and that was from catching my uhf antenna on an over the head launch. Still managed to land it, but it ripped over an inch off both sides. Steel cables are no joke.

WillM
8th January 2016, 07:01 PM
^ +1 on very rare breaking of props, as long as we are talking about pusher props. Tractor props on belly-land planes are a different story. ;)

I believe there is a Drak waiting for me when I get home! Ha! I never received a shipping notice, so this is a great surprise!

ritewing
8th January 2016, 07:38 PM
Yeah the sparring is a system, any one spar isn't strong, but the way the spars are positioned and what they are doing makes the system strong when everything is installed. If you look at the way I have built and sparred stuff over the last 15 years you can see the majority of the manufacturers have copied my designs of I beam spars with micro fg rods.

zbemerson
8th January 2016, 07:41 PM
^

I believe there is a Drak waiting for me when I get home! Ha! I never received a shipping notice, so this is a great surprise!

I keep hoping this happens to me! Lol

ritewing
8th January 2016, 07:55 PM
Mandy did a lot of hand done shipping info input here, so yes there mite be some of you guys who don't receive the notification of shipment .It is easily missed, its just one button on ups that if you dont hit it no notification is sent.
Sorry guys!
^ +1 on very rare breaking of props, as long as we are talking about pusher props. Tractor props on belly-land planes are a different story. ;)

I believe there is a Drak waiting for me when I get home! Ha! I never received a shipping notice, so this is a great surprise!

kross1
8th January 2016, 08:53 PM
Please guys, someone, measure the dimensions of the fuselage and the wings.
Thanks!

Wing root 15 3/8"

Wing length along top spar channel in front of servo 22 7/8"

Fuselage length 36 1/2"

Fuselage width across wing roots measured in spar channel 15 5/8"

kross1
8th January 2016, 10:15 PM
Got mine, and it's great. Box was bigger than I expected, and after unpacking it, I don't know how you got it all to fit! Everything was nicely packaged, although the bundle of CF&FG rods (wrapped well in plastic) had broken free of the hot-melt which had it secured in a box corner. Maybe it got bumped in shipping, all was fine.

My wings had very very slight warps, downwards bellies. After a bit of handling and sitting on the workbench however for an hour or three one is perfect, the 2nd better. A total non-issue, adding the spars/etc will fix it.

My shop bench is a bit stained and worn, the foam which was wrapped around the wings (padding) makes a great workbench pad, help prevent shop-rash while building! Huge piece of foam wrap. I bet Chris planned it that way.

Chris, thanks. This is gonna be fun.

69329

69330

fireflyer451
9th January 2016, 12:21 AM
Hi Chris,

As we start building and adding batteries and payloads, what do you recommend as the maximum all up weight?

Thanks

ritewing
9th January 2016, 01:01 AM
I am flying a 940 gram battery and a 16oz down facing mapping cam in my heavy one and its not breaking a sweat.
Dont know the AUW off hand, I just got home.
So that's why I was saying I found some 10000 5s that are within range. If your flying fpv you will have a hard time over weighting it, but I am sure some one will find the wall. If you guys are going heavy and fast I have the stiffer balsa you can use to push the limits. All of my molded draks do have epp elevons and fly awesome , but soon I will make a version with lamed wings and balsa elevons for crazy fast flight.

richardhageman74
9th January 2016, 10:08 AM
One of the thing I felt for on the Drak are the canards. Does any one goin to install them, only for cosmectics pov. Does anybody know where exactly to install them for the best airflow over the wing, curious who is going to ise them.

Hoss
9th January 2016, 10:27 AM
One of the thing I felt for on the Drak are the canards. Does any one goin to install them, only for cosmectics pov. Does anybody know where exactly to install them for the best airflow over the wing, curious who is going to ise them.
I am as well, but know that there is no installing them just for cosmetics. They most certainly are going to change the flight characteristics. I might suggest getting it trimmed and flying perfectly without them first so you've got a reference as to how this bird flies to base off of. Just my .02. Maybe it's best to jump in with them right off the bat - just doesn't seem like it would be to me though.

Marc Booth
9th January 2016, 10:55 AM
Hi all.

I've just set up a Facebook group for the Drak.
It should be good for advice and suggestions, and maybe even sorting out group meet ups

It will also save clogging up the build thread with small matters.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/499374400245273/

I've put the group up as closed to stop spam and wining old farts.

Lenin
9th January 2016, 11:43 AM
Chris, ritewing esc has been programmed with no cut off lipo?

Tomstoy
9th January 2016, 12:17 PM
One of the thing I felt for on the Drak are the canards. Does any one goin to install them, only for cosmectics pov. Does anybody know where exactly to install them for the best airflow over the wing, curious who is going to ise them.


If my memory serves me correctly, ( excuse me, I'm that whining old far mentioned. Oh wait, that ain't me, I refuse to be on Facebook ), Chris said the last mention of the canard that forward does not work, it might farther back, but then the kits started showing up and he got way too busy to play around with them.

Hoss is right, get her flying correctly first. Maybe by then poor ol' Chris might have recovered from this year long ordeal.
Personally, I hope he takes a well deserved vacation first! He's earned it!

Chris, absolutely an outstanding job!

A little heads up for everybody. I suggest a trial fit before hot gluing the struts in the wings. Mine are off a little. I haven't worked it out yet but I did denatured alcohol them and they do snap off.
My plan, leave outer struts tacked in the fuselage, have my friend help me to drop a few beads of hot glue on the wing outer struts and carefully place each wing in place, one at a time.

It was close, but the wings sat a little lower than I liked.

You can use the leading edge parting line to line up and the back match the wing root.

That's my story, and unless somebody has a witness to contradict I'm sticking with it.

Marc Booth
9th January 2016, 12:22 PM
Chris, ritewing esc has been programmed with no cut off lipo?
I'd personally leave it off. If you've got an OSD, you know that you lipo is almost dead.
I'd rather try and save my aircraft ruining a lipo, than have the auto cut-off take away what little power I had left to try with.

Lenin
9th January 2016, 12:27 PM
I'd personally leave it off. If you've got an OSD, you know that you lipo is almost dead.
I'd rather try and save my aircraft ruining a lipo, than have the auto cut-off take away what little power I had left to try with.
Yeah, I want with no cut off too. I totally agree with you. I hope the esc have pre programmed just like that. If no, we need to know how to do it.

Marc Booth
9th January 2016, 12:28 PM
Yeah, I want with no cut off too. I totally agree with you. I hope the esc have pre programmed just like that. If no, we need to know how to do it.
Ah sorry. Misread your post.

Pushjerk
9th January 2016, 01:04 PM
I'd personally leave it off. If you've got an OSD, you know that you lipo is almost dead.
I'd rather try and save my aircraft ruining a lipo, than have the auto cut-off take away what little power I had left to try with.


Yeah, I want with no cut off too. I totally agree with you. I hope the esc have pre programmed just like that. If no, we need to know how to do it.

I dropped the same concerns and inquiry into the Z3 thread some time back. Drak mania had begun, so much attention was in this direction and the post was buried.
ill stay tuned anticipating this info.

Marc Booth
9th January 2016, 01:14 PM
I'd be interested to know all the settings like timing ect for the motor, as I might put a Castle Creations ESC on there so I can have some logging info.

kross1
9th January 2016, 02:09 PM
If my memory serves me correctly, ( excuse me, I'm that whining old far mentioned. Oh wait, that ain't me, I refuse to be on Facebook ), Chris said the last mention of the canard that forward does not work, it might farther back, but then the kits started showing up and he got way too busy to play around with them.

Hoss is right, get her flying correctly first. Maybe by then poor ol' Chris might have recovered from this year long ordeal.
Personally, I hope he takes a well deserved vacation first! He's earned it!

Chris, absolutely an outstanding job!

A little heads up for everybody. I suggest a trial fit before hot gluing the struts in the wings. Mine are off a little. I haven't worked it out yet but I did denatured alcohol them and they do snap off.
My plan, leave outer struts tacked in the fuselage, have my friend help me to drop a few beads of hot glue on the wing outer struts and carefully place each wing in place, one at a time.

It was close, but the wings sat a little lower than I liked.

You can use the leading edge parting line to line up and the back match the wing root.

That's my story, and unless somebody has a witness to contradict I'm sticking with it.

What he said. My right wing sat maybe 1.0mm low on the front, 1.5mm on the back. The molded edge lines on wing and fuse are great for aligning.

The alcohol worked fine for removing the tubes, thanks for that tip Chris, I did not know.

Also note the larger front tube and spar may be 1" longer than needed, at least mine were.

Wing spars & caps done, glue drying, looks great.

More sparring later tonight.

Hoss
9th January 2016, 02:21 PM
What he said. My right wing sat maybe 1.0mm low on the front, 1.5mm on the back. The molded edge lines on wing and fuse are great for aligning.

The alcohol worked fine for removing the tubes, thanks for that tip Chris, I did not know.

Also note the larger front tube and spar may be 1" longer than needed, at least mine were.

Wing spars & caps done, glue drying, looks great.

More sparring later tonight.
Good deal. Glad to see builds happening, thoughts expressed, problems solved. This has been a great all-around thread. I think we've touched on just about every subject except quantum mechanics and it's been upbeat.

Looking forward to seeing some paint jobs and designs. Still considering my blue led setup on the back like the millennium falcon's sublight drive, lol.

Maj.Duty
9th January 2016, 02:50 PM
Those LEDs would be cool for some fun factor. I didn't consider any. Might have to now.

All I've done is cut the nubs off. Have to go to a basketball game now. Plan on sparring later tonight. Thank you for the heads up on alignment. One advantage of building behind others - they find the issues first ;-]

Tomstoy
9th January 2016, 03:16 PM
What he said. My right wing sat maybe 1.0mm low on the front, 1.5mm on the back. The molded edge lines on wing and fuse are great for aligning.

The alcohol worked fine for removing the tubes, thanks for that tip Chris, I did not know.

Also note the larger front tube and spar may be 1" longer than needed, at least mine were.

Wing spars & caps done, glue drying, looks great.

More sparring later tonight.

Yeah, front tube is a little long, no problem.

For those who don't know, when cuting the cf tube wrap the cut area with masking tape to prevent splintering.
You can use a hacksaw then with a 32 tooth blade no problem.
Don't breathe the dust and wash your hands thoroughly after cutting and sanding. Don't want to pick your nose with cf dust
on your fingers.

kross1
9th January 2016, 08:59 PM
When installing the motor mount, check the alignment of the metal plate from the planes bottom, easy to verify it is centered/straight by looking at the bolt holes and the foam sides. Simpler than trying from the top.

kross1
9th January 2016, 10:18 PM
Chris, I gotta say, like the rest- This plane is f***** awesome.

Being part way thru the build, and seeing the quality of the design/materials, as well as the packaging, I am impressed.

Thanks.

ritewing
9th January 2016, 10:43 PM
Thnx buddy, I sure tried to nail it with the design and quality with support

nd3
9th January 2016, 11:12 PM
Gents, my Drak arrived on Thursday. I still have it sitting in the un-opened box. I'm debating going another direction and am wondering is there anybody in this thread here that would want it before I post it for sale in the "for sale" thread? It's the full up Drak kit with the SS motor and all the bells and whistles. Shoot me a pm if you want to see the invoice.

Thanks


****SOLD****

EHLO
10th January 2016, 03:02 AM
Ok, took me ages but I found what the Drak remembers me: The Klingon Bird of Prey ship :D

Mmmmh wondering if I can mount some phaser guns under the winglets ....

Tomstoy
10th January 2016, 05:07 AM
Aaaahhhhhh, can't type, fingers glued togetber!

kross1
10th January 2016, 10:38 AM
Ok, took me ages but I found what the Drak remembers me: The Klingon Bird of Prey ship :D

Mmmmh wondering if I can mount some phaser guns under the winglets ....

I know, right? The bird of prey doesn't have a showy enough color scheme to make it worth replicating.

Drakken Rider
10th January 2016, 02:27 PM
I've been following this thread for a while and just finished watching "Eragon" and thought I would label myself the....

My Drak showed up last week. I've got her spar'ed and I am now working on color scheme. What a hard decision! Thinking. May go grey black and carbon with a splash of bright orange plastidip on the wings. Not sure if it's the leading edge or the fill area that I will do the orange. Anyhow

Cant wait to see everyone's vision of their Draks

fair the well fellow Drakken Riders!

Maj.Duty
10th January 2016, 03:51 PM
Are you guys sanding the CF rods too, before gluing them in?

Captain crash
10th January 2016, 04:19 PM
Are you guys sanding the CF rods too, before gluing them in?


Yes you should to get a good bond!

kross1
10th January 2016, 06:13 PM
Wile I claim the first error, I fixed it.

I did the motor mount exactly as Chris showed in his video, but did not pin the foam cover to the fuselage. THIS WAS AN ERROR.

Placed a couple of Dewalt batteries on it for weight, and stopped for the night. All looked great.

This morning.... the weight of the batteries caused the foam cover and the metal mount plate to slide rearwards ~3/4" and here it dried.

69377 Bottom view, you can see the metal plate and foam cover in back have slid "down" in the picture.


I was able to carefully pull it all apart as the goop had not fully cured. Re-glued and PINNED, will see how it looks tomorrow. Should be just fine.

Maj.Duty
10th January 2016, 06:22 PM
Thank you for the heads-up. Pin your parts is what I get from that

Tomstoy
10th January 2016, 07:09 PM
Wow, you got lucky! Should be fine.

A little update on the wing alignment. Sorry no pics of that, just the end result.

First, with the fuselage outer cf rod already installed, I slipped the outer rods for on wing over the inner cf tube I had pushed thru the fuselage.

Next, using some scrap wood that I trimmed to size I placed these in the 2 bays and with a small clamp ready I put hot glue dabs in the wing slot and fit them over the tubes. Aligning, as mentioned before, by using parting lines on the leading edge and root area and visually aligning the trailing edge my buddy clamped the wing to the fuselage.

After the hot glue had cooled the rest of the capping was done as in the video. Cap strips fit perfectly.

Made the whole process pretty easy with excellent results and a one time stress free process.

kross1
10th January 2016, 07:23 PM
Tomstoy- which wing seemed to be riding too low? On mine it was the right, by ~1-1.5mm. Just curious if we'll see a trend, it if it's random.

Tomstoy
10th January 2016, 07:52 PM
Both. Left was worse, close to 2mm. Right by 1mm.

Also. If you tape the outline of all your goop first it makes a very nice line.

ritewing
10th January 2016, 10:02 PM
You guys are kicking ass already.

kross1
10th January 2016, 10:14 PM
Yep. Chris, what size are the bullet connectors on the motor? I don't have and that match in my parts box. Need to place an order anyways...

Hmerly
10th January 2016, 10:14 PM
Damn, wish I could get my kit. Can't fly due to weather. Driving me nutty

ritewing
10th January 2016, 10:27 PM
Hmerly I have yours done, I just need to box it up.
I have a DR appt tomo so It will proly go out Tuesday..
Been here working all weekend.

ritewing
10th January 2016, 10:28 PM
4 mm
Yep. Chris, what size are the bullet connectors on the motor? I don't have and that match in my parts box. Need to place an order anyways...

kross1
10th January 2016, 10:44 PM
As long as I'm asking silly questions, and the ESC/battery are outside in the cold workshop....

What gauge wire should be used from battery to ESC? Placing a parts order.... I'm guessing at 10 or 12 gauge, but want to get it right.

Hoss
10th January 2016, 10:59 PM
If you want to go with legal electrical standards in the US, then for 50A you'll need to use 6 gauge wire. Now, I've put 100+A through 12 gauge for a long time and have never had a problem, so I'd say you'd be safe with 10, but that's the standard if you want to know (easy to look up). That standard is built around not burning people's houses down, and not around a 30 minute rc flights, so take it for what it's worth.

Maj.Duty
10th January 2016, 11:06 PM
69382You changing the wire GA on your batteries, kross?

I see the SS motor utilizes 14GA. My 5S Revos use 10GA. Since I don't have any 4mm connectors either, I'm going to replace them with 5mm bullets from the new style EC5 connectors. New style meaning they have gone away from that cage style bullet (which are on the motor) to a split style.

BTW, thank you for the tip on using alcohol. I had the pop the outer spar tube out twice. Once because after curing it was bowed a bit more than I liked and the second time because it was shifted to one side a bit much. Got it rite the 3rd time and it's nice and straight now.

Now I have to see what y'all are talking about the wings maybe being 1 - 2mm low. Getting ready to glue in the wing spars and trying to understand what y'all are reporting on that front

ritewing
10th January 2016, 11:14 PM
Thats for houses, this is high strand silicone insulated. Its not measured on the same scale. 12 gague is perfect here in this hi quality high strand hobby wire. I was an electrical contractor and its #8 thats good to 55 amps in houses and # 6 is good to 65 amps
If you want to go with legal electrical standards in the US, then for 50A you'll need to use 6 gauge wire. Now, I've put 100+A through 12 gauge for a long time and have never had a problem, so I'd say you'd be safe with 10, but that's the standard if you want to know (easy to look up). That standard is built around not burning people's houses down, and not around a 30 minute rc flights, so take it for what it's worth.

kross1
10th January 2016, 11:18 PM
Follow Chris's video re: the wing-spars. Tack spar sections into the wings/fuse as shown with hot-melt only, put the spar tubes in, and check alignment of the 2 wings to the fuselage before adding the other glues.

We found that the wings were "lower" than desired, the molding-lines on the wing did not line-up with the molding-lines on the fuselage, the wings line was below the fuselages line.

By shimming, and re-gluing, the problem could be fixed.

ritewing
10th January 2016, 11:18 PM
A tad low is fine, remember its sitting 6 mm out farther with the verts in there and the foil thins as it heads to the tip.
Get it as close as you can, just make them match , thats most important.
69382You changing the wire GA on your batteries, kross?

I see the SS motor utilizes 14GA. My 5S Revos use 10GA. Since I don't have any 4mm connectors either, I'm going to replace them with 5mm bullets from the new style EC5 connectors. New style meaning they have gone away from that cage style bullet (which are on the motor) to a split style.

BTW, thank you for the tip on using alcohol. I had the pop the outer spar tube out twice. Once because after curing it was bowed a bit more than I liked and the second time because it was shifted to one side a bit much. Got it rite the 3rd time and it's nice and straight now.

Now I have to see what y'all are talking about the wings maybe being 1 - 2mm low. Getting ready to glue in the wing spars and trying to understand what y'all are reporting on that front

kross1
10th January 2016, 11:22 PM
Thats for houses, this is high strand silicone insulated. Its not measured on the same scale. 12 gague is perfect.

Thanks. I just ordered 10 gauge, may have some 12 in the shop. I'll see what best fits the 5.5mm bullets on the battery I've ordered and go with that.

Need a chart of what gauge (high strand silicone) best fits 5.5mm bullets, vs. 4.5mm, vs. 4mm, vs....

Hoss
10th January 2016, 11:26 PM
Thats for houses, this is high strand silicone insulated. Its not measured on the same scale. 12 gague is perfect here in this hi quality high strand hobby wire. I was an electrical contractor and its # thats good to 55 amps in houses and # 6 is good to 65 amps
Good stuff. I thought it might be way overkill and for solid copper building standards. That explains why my wires never get hot... I've run some pretty small wires at times and never had issues. Thanks.

Tomstoy
10th January 2016, 11:35 PM
Hoss, or hfman, was it one of you guys that said you glued wire ties into the coroplast for a wear strip?
Whomever, what did you find for a satisfactory glue, thick ca?

Started that while waiting for the glue to dry on the ailerons. Got them tacked in with hot glue right now.

ritewing
10th January 2016, 11:38 PM
Hoss, or hfman, was it one of you guys that said you glued wire ties into the coroplast for a wear strip?
Whomever, what did you find for a satisfactory glue, thick ca?

Started that while waiting for the glue to dry on the ailerons. Got them tacked in with hot glue right now.
I used truck door edge molding from the auto parts store. Works much better than zip ties , then for the chance kid I took a piece of plastic to the Chinse kid after making it form fit, then I take some car side edge molding and hot glue it to It, then once it wears use a little alcohol peel it off and go on another one

Maj.Duty
10th January 2016, 11:45 PM
Chris, you got a picture or link to an example of that?

ritewing
11th January 2016, 12:04 AM
I will get you a picture tomorrow, it goes on nice and last forever.

ritewing
11th January 2016, 01:23 AM
Okay guys I got the batteries ordered, here is the label for the SilverBack bats. And here is a picture of my lens of my laser cutter that I blew through on the weekend. I scrambled to get a back up lense from a friend to keep things rolling, it slowed me I'm just a little bit. The damn Laser hasn't had a break since October. & I think when I cleaned the lens and mirrors on the day before I got some debris down on the focus lens , that creates a hotspot and killed it, I just went and ordered a few backup lenses and a few spare mirrors. .https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160111/c086e454c1677109090d29285a8a5bf1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160111/dbd80300430f9af4edfa20b3774653d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160111/10194832efb5edbba29acf4367e6ea09.jpg

Matt-
11th January 2016, 05:32 AM
If you want to go with legal electrical standards in the US, then for 50A you'll need to use 6 gauge wire.

You've forgotten to consider the voltage. 50A @ 110V is significantly beyond the current associated with a 5S LIPO.

Specifically: 5.5Kwh for household power vs 1Kwh for fully-charged 5S LIPO.

Hoss
11th January 2016, 09:07 AM
You've forgotten to consider the voltage. 50A @ 110V is significantly beyond the current associated with a 5S LIPO.

Specifically: 5.5Kwh for household power vs 1Kwh for fully-charged 5S LIPO.
My batteries are 110v. I use a 1" prop and jumper cables for motor leads. It's a pretty sick setup.

Yes, I admit above that I didn't take into consideration the application when reading that :)

Shifteer
11th January 2016, 10:35 AM
This is what we were doing today, all of this shipped out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160108/1221a0b4f33e08100dabeebe13cf0160.jpg

USPS must hate you. Do they have to pull a semi up?

TheDave666
11th January 2016, 12:03 PM
Wait...? Yep I think I see mine 3rd one from the back.

Sensis_Aerospace
11th January 2016, 01:23 PM
UPS is going to put a ban on Ritewing...you cannot abuse a company like that Chris lol

Johnnymeg
11th January 2016, 06:54 PM
Almost caught up on this thread. Subbing so I don't miss out.

Tomstoy
11th January 2016, 06:56 PM
So, how does the front of the coroplast for the battery bay get secured?
I see the bolt holes in the back.

Hoss
11th January 2016, 06:57 PM
So, how does the front of the coroplast for the battery bay get secured?
I see the bolt holes in the back.
Glue.

Tomstoy
11th January 2016, 07:00 PM
How can you then remove it for battery changes?

Maj.Duty
11th January 2016, 07:02 PM
Doesn't he use 3M packing tape for a coro hinge?

Who here is planning on running 1.3 video and where do you plan on putting your antennas for separation?

Hoss
11th January 2016, 07:17 PM
Doesn't he use 3M packing tape for a coro hinge?

Who here is planning on running 1.3 video and where do you plan on putting your antennas for separation?
Oh sorry, you're taking about the front bay cover - disregard.

Actually, it's somewhat relevant - what I usually do is flute it (remove a row or 2 on the underside) to create a hinge in the coro itself and glue it in place, but haven't decided if I'm going to do that on this yet. That's only when I cover the coro or at least put hinge tape over the area as repeated bending will eventually wear through.

ritewing
11th January 2016, 10:51 PM
Here is something different ,6940569406

zbemerson
11th January 2016, 10:57 PM
Here is something different ,6940569406

Oh man! I'm dying to see how that performs.. Does the tractor version cause any prop issues on landing?

zbemerson
11th January 2016, 10:59 PM
I will use 1.3 but I haven't decided on placement yet. I feel fairly concerned that if 433 and 1.3 antennas are both on the fuse, there could be some interference.

ritewing
11th January 2016, 11:08 PM
I did this for Hmerly over the weekend, I gave it some down and to the rite a few degrees like I do on all my past tractor wings.
Landing can be done easily with the prop on the nose, just take your time.

gobigdale
11th January 2016, 11:12 PM
I will use 1.3 but I haven't decided on placement yet. I feel fairly concerned that if 433 and 1.3 antennas are both on the fuse, there could be some interference.

Put one of your antennas up in the nose. One in the side saddle. Should be good for at least 8 miles. You can also put them in the wings but will require longer wire runs and make it a pain to break down.

Hoss
11th January 2016, 11:22 PM
I will use 1.3 but I haven't decided on placement yet. I feel fairly concerned that if 433 and 1.3 antennas are both on the fuse, there could be some interference.
1.3 / 433 is all I fly. I actually had a question last week about separation distance. Questions like these I usually throw at Mike from dragonlink - I trust his experience and he's never steered me wrong. Below is his answer to my questioning if 24" would be enough for an airframe I'm building:

"Actually, 24 inches is really good separation, and I would expect you to be able to fly 30 miles with spacing like that. So no problem at all, 24 inches is better than most people have. Many copters have less than 12 inches separation.

Mike"

Maj.Duty
11th January 2016, 11:58 PM
Put one of your antennas up in the nose. One in the side saddle. Should be good for at least 8 miles. You can also put them in the wings but will require longer wire runs and make it a pain to break down.

How far away from cameras should you keep the antenna?

Tomstoy
12th January 2016, 12:12 AM
My Hexa Flys with the vtx 6 inches from my rx. Been out a few miles with no issue.

Separating them from each other by placing one in each side pocket should be more than enough. It's what I plan on.

Hoss
12th January 2016, 12:29 AM
My Hexa Flys with the vtx 6 inches from my rx. Been out a few miles with no issue.

Separating them from each other by placing one in each side pocket should be more than enough. It's what I plan on.
Me too. I don't do long range any more, but have never has any issues at all regarding interference, especially with a decent uhf system. Plus, if there are any issues, it'll be with rssi and not video. Losing video is much more annoying and dangerous than a failsafe on the control link (providing you've got a decent and properly configured controller). Raising your tx above your head gives you enough signal to turn around at that point. But I've had my wing out almost 15 miles with 1.3 / 433 and still had rssi in the 50's%, so I wouldn't worry.

zbemerson
12th January 2016, 12:30 AM
Put one of your antennas up in the nose. One in the side saddle. Should be good for at least 8 miles. You can also put them in the wings but will require longer wire runs and make it a pain to break down.

I wish I could upload pics but for some reason it's failing to upload. Anyway, I'm building a Zeta and I'm using CAT7 cable to run out to the servos, VTx and UHF in the wings. Quick and easy to disconnect and it's shielded to boot.

oleg_t
12th January 2016, 12:41 AM
Quick and easy to disconnect... Which connector type you are using for this?

oleg_t
12th January 2016, 01:38 AM
Hi Chris, in the Drak build videos you used Gorilla glue with some kind of "white glue". As Gorilla glue is not easy to find where i leave i'm trying to find alternative. For my other EPP models i used the following glue: http://www.akfix.com/sayfalar.asp?LanguageID=2&cid=2&id=14&id2=72&b=detay . It looks very similar to the Gorilla glue. What you think? Also what is that white glue, is it a PVA paper glue, have a link? What would you suggest here?

ritewing
12th January 2016, 01:45 AM
That looks fine, yes any white non toxic water based wood glue. The water in the white glue is what kicks off the public glue and makes it foam.

xmimx
12th January 2016, 01:54 AM
So, how does the front of the coroplast for the battery bay get secured?
I see the bolt holes in the back.
I'm wondering the dance

ritewing
12th January 2016, 02:03 AM
I will get to that in the next vid, if your in a big hurry, then you guys will find a way. But if you want me to describe in writing then here ya go ,glue 1/3 of the lid down with hot glue and goop. Then stick a metal 440 rod in the last flute and glue it in, then take the back end of the bat bay plug to make the divider that the front and back lid screw too.

Mooga
12th January 2016, 03:05 AM
Hi Chris, in the Drak build videos you used Gorilla glue with some kind of "white glue". As Gorilla glue is not easy to find where i leave i'm trying to find alternative. For my other EPP models i used the following glue: http://www.akfix.com/sayfalar.asp?LanguageID=2&cid=2&id=14&id2=72&b=detay . It looks very similar to the Gorilla glue. What you think? Also what is that white glue, is it a PVA paper glue, have a link? What would you suggest here?
I have been told that in Australia Sikabond-Techgrip is a good equivalent to Gorilla Grip

oleg_t
12th January 2016, 04:38 AM
Ok thanks, will use that. Getting things ready before my Drak arrives. Actually i'm a bit worried about it as according to the latest tracking event in USPS it must be in my city for as long as 3-4 days. Must be caught by customs (

Maj.Duty
12th January 2016, 05:08 AM
Quick and easy to disconnect... Which connector type you are using for this?

I'm wondering this too and how he grounded the shielding

Matt-
12th January 2016, 05:09 AM
Actually i'm a bit worried about it as according to the latest tracking event in USPS it must be in my city for as long as 3-4 days. Must be caught by customs (

I had the same concern with a recent USPS shipment but it breezed straight through.

Apparently they pre-notify customs to expedite their clearance. That means that you get the customs event before it's anywhere near the destination country.

zbemerson
12th January 2016, 11:02 AM
Quick and easy to disconnect... Which connector type you are using for this?

I'm using CAT7 and RJ45.

zbemerson
12th January 2016, 11:06 AM
I'm wondering this too and how he grounded the shielding

Here is a link to the CAT7 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028B9S3Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) and the RJ45 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MG3YMOE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02) The RJ45 came grounded to the female housing. And here (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2542451) is the Zeta build that demonstrates how to install the CAT7/RJ45. Ok back to the Drak. Sorry for the off topic.

ginger1302
12th January 2016, 11:21 AM
Where are you guys thinking of putting the pitot tube? I was kind of thinking of glueing a piece of 4mm coro to the camera nose cover then running it thru the holes so it will be able to be pushed thru if it hits something.

richardhageman74
12th January 2016, 12:55 PM
[emoji30] worse part of it, making holes in it[emoji30]

Hoss
12th January 2016, 01:01 PM
Where are you guys thinking of putting the pitot tube? I was kind of thinking of glueing a piece of 4mm coro to the camera nose cover then running it thru the holes so it will be able to be pushed thru if it hits something.
Tough part is that the frame is so thick, it's hard to bury things or come from behind some foam anywhere. Wherever it goes, it needs a shot at fresh air... It needs to be the first thing around it that touches new air, so it can't go further back on the aircraft and catch a stream coming off the nose, so I think your idea is a pretty good one...

ritewing
12th January 2016, 01:03 PM
Pitot, and lids. Pictures say a thousand words, so here's about it 10000 words for you https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/c8df35ea44eed7f436e58e5780fd4d26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/1ae735ababe0e4c74a71c5fb04370d34.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/8f40e1f877ac28c62e5f320f5a6b52de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/1237082c56e21fd989bd03246c5f88f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/0567379869458ee9e8eeb21462b29355.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/6ad9a80e423254ac9c127311ceadd1f7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/cc7c8d5718643b0cf79b761601fde09a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/45937caf42b0fa02911d79189f3bd757.jpg

ritewing
12th January 2016, 01:06 PM
A few morehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/8ae22752330f4ff1e75afe6bcd891a08.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/2d2d3cda5d179895c9540f913496697c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/dcdd44ec286f1d67c4a7ceaf13896b33.jpg

Hoss
12th January 2016, 01:12 PM
With that pitot placement, you're not worried about all the air distortion and disruption coming from the nose that sticks out over a foot in front of it? I ask because I can't see it getting a clean bite of air being that far back and that close to the main part of the fuse.

Hoss
12th January 2016, 01:13 PM
Looking at it, Maybe it's far enough away... Not sure.

ritewing
12th January 2016, 01:15 PM
We have had great results here on all the mapping planes, it's doesn't seem to get any ripple. I was hesitant at first, then after doing it now about 50 times, as long as you keep it out by the winglet, you get a good clean bite of air , I make it so it points down slightly because the nose is usually at a higher AOA at speeds, so if there's any ripple is usually going over it. What I do is sharpen the end of a piece of piano wire and push it through that location until I get it where I want it, then I heat the end up with the torch while it still through there and then pull it through to make the hole, then after the basic hole is made I will doctor it up with a hot piece of wire to widen the hole

Hoss
12th January 2016, 01:33 PM
We have had great results here on all the mapping planes, it's doesn't seem to get any ripple. I was hesitant at first, then after doing it now about 50 times, as long as you keep it out by the winglet, you get a good clean bite of air , I make it so it points down slightly because the nose is usually at a higher AOA at speeds, so if there's any ripple is usually going over it. What I do is sharpen the end of a piece of piano wire and push it through that location until I get it where I want it, then I hate the end up with the torch while it still through there and then pull it through to make the hole, then after the basic hole is made I will doctor it up with a hot piece of wire to widen the hole
Where do you run the actual tube? Do you go through the spar channel or do you run not only the pitot but the entire tube through the hole you made, all the way back to the bay?

Thanks a ton for these pictures, btw. I can't tell you how great it is and how confident it makes me to see one you've created all built up.

ginger1302
12th January 2016, 02:38 PM
Yeah so many questions answered by just a couple of pictures. Now I am going to push on a bit today.

Maj.Duty
12th January 2016, 02:56 PM
What is that little vertical antenna thing on a board mounted to the inside wall of the main bay?

Hoss
12th January 2016, 02:59 PM
What is that little vertical antenna thing on a board mounted to the inside wall of the main bay?
That's a 1.2 dipole if I'm not mistaken.

EDIT: that's a 2.4 dipole

Maj.Duty
12th January 2016, 03:02 PM
I get a little scared when I see gear I don't have lol

xmimx
12th January 2016, 03:03 PM
As I'm getting impatient to get mine, I wanted to know if there are still a lot of boxes to be shipped? :)

Hoss
12th January 2016, 03:04 PM
I get a little scared when I see gear I don't have lol
Haha. It's either that or some little telemetry antenna or something. It's tough to gauge the size because the fuse is so freaking massive.


EDIT: it's a 2.4 dipole. Too small for 1.2

xmimx
12th January 2016, 03:05 PM
and about the pitot, I would not be concerned about the airflow there but rather the fact that if you land in high grass, your tube could bend.

so I will place is on top of the wing

hjscm
12th January 2016, 04:52 PM
Here is a link to the CAT7 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028B9S3Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) and the RJ45 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MG3YMOE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02) The RJ45 came grounded to the female housing. And here (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2542451) is the Zeta build that demonstrates how to install the CAT7/RJ45. Ok back to the Drak. Sorry for the off topic.
if the housing is grounded then how are you grounding that? i am using molex connectors, was wondering how stout the rj45 is. the tabs seem to break easily didn't want it to pull out.

mutley2
12th January 2016, 05:32 PM
Just had shipping notice, cheers Chris, got a nice big box of bit waiting to be fitted :-)

Tomstoy
12th January 2016, 05:41 PM
Hmmm, still contemplating how to secure to front of the battery bay coroplast. Interrested in what others are doing?
Almost at the point to lay out paint, as soon as I lay out the battery bay, ( want to paint that, too ).

Maj.Duty
12th January 2016, 05:58 PM
Hmmm, still contemplating how to secure to front of the battery bay coroplast. Interrested in what others are doing?
Almost at the point to lay out paint, as soon as I lay out the battery bay, ( want to paint that, too ).

I think he's going to make a video of that and I think Chris touched on it a page or two back. They glue the front of the coro in place and cut part way through an inch or so back, and that becomes the hinge point and somewhere in there they glue a rod. I think the rod is near the hinge line? Not sure

Tomstoy
12th January 2016, 06:05 PM
I think he's going to make a video of that and I think Chris touched on it a page or two back. They glue the front of the coro in place and cut part way through an inch or so back, and that becomes the hinge point and somewhere in there they glue a rod. I think the rod is near the hinge line? Not sure

Yeah, I saw that, and understood it.
Just don't like gluing a portion down.

Actually, just came up with an idea. Install a couple brass tubes into the front of the coroplast as dowels matching up to holes inthe nose. That way I can remove.the whole thing and.nothing wears out.
I want to carve the foam plug to fit around the battery, to give the nose some extra protection when the inevitable happens.

Damn impresseve aircraft!

Maj.Duty
12th January 2016, 06:14 PM
I want to carve the foam plug to fit around the battery, to give the nose some extra protection when the inevitable happens.

Damn impresseve aircraft!

Oh that's funny. I was contemplating the exact same thing! I want to use as much of the plug as possible. Carve out a box for the batteries underneath. Secure the batteries and add some strength to the nose too.

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:33 PM
What is that little vertical antenna thing on a board mounted to the inside wall of the main bay?
That is the kick ass dragon link 2.4 vid antenna . I put it in there, but it's so small you can go just about anywhere, you can even embed it into the foam in front of the saddle bays if you wanted to

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:36 PM
Hmmm, still contemplating how to secure to front of the battery bay coroplast. Interrested in what others are doing?
Almost at the point to lay out paint, as soon as I lay out the battery bay, ( want to paint that, too ).
You're going to want to glue it down, and you want a good 1/3 or more of it glued down, this adds the box torsional strength all the way out to the nose and creates a crazy amount of strength through the whole fuselage. If it's not hindering you by having a good part of it glued down, then do so. I usually have my main battery lid almost glued down as much as I can and then I Spy the battery into the pocket into some premade which is that I made out of the battery bay plug.

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:38 PM
I think he's going to make a video of that and I think Chris touched on it a page or two back. They glue the front of the coro in place and cut part way through an inch or so back, and that becomes the hinge point and somewhere in there they glue a rod. I think the rod is near the hinge line? Not sure
Exactly there is a piece of metal on one flute in front of the hinge line, it goes down into the fuselage nose and anchors down, this makes it super strong and the capability of your lid being ripped off much less.

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:40 PM
Oh that's funny. I was contemplating the exact same thing! I want to use as much of the plug as possible. Carve out a box for the batteries underneath. Secure the batteries and add some strength to the nose too.
That's what the plug is for, you can make a full on housing for the battery that slides up under the lid, you can glue it right in place if you'd like, then put your lid over it. Then make a decent size plug behind the battery that you push down to the floor with Velcro, and the battery is locked in place, and no velcro has to be on the battery or the floor except behind the battery stop plug you made that goes behind the battery

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:42 PM
Okay guys I'm also going to be making this some of these in the next few days. These are plates that you can glue down lightly with Group or hot glue, then you can mount down your auto pilot your pito tubes or any of your sensors or video transmitters, they take a little bit of time to cut due to all the lightening holes in them, I'll be selling these for 25 .00 a sethttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/70a3dd1a562cb2ad7998d1e27d6d9f50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/254a621ee2893f33e38e8dff68fd82a8.jpg

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:45 PM
Hey guys I will be done shipping this week, then I'll be working on a video for some of these questions you have, I can't go much faster than that at this point.

ginger1302
12th January 2016, 07:49 PM
Where can I find the pdf with the jig for the elevon reflex?

ritewing
12th January 2016, 07:55 PM
I just left the shop, remind me tomorrow and we will get it up in the build thread.

zbemerson
12th January 2016, 08:02 PM
if the housing is grounded then how are you grounding that? i am using molex connectors, was wondering how stout the rj45 is. the tabs seem to break easily didn't want it to pull out.

Sorry, I misunderstood your question at first. The CAT7 and RJ45 cables both have 8 individual wires. I cut off either end and soldered on servo leads inside the fuse and whatever connectors I needed in the wings for the (VTx, UHF and servos). The shielding needs a drain wire that gets soldered in to the battery ground. Hope that helps.

zbemerson
12th January 2016, 08:06 PM
I got shipping notification today (ordered on Nov. 14th) so he's getting toward the end of the line to us procrastinators :) Can't WAIT!!!

xmimx
12th January 2016, 08:24 PM
I got shipping notification today (ordered on Nov. 14th) so he's getting toward the end of the line to us procrastinators :) Can't WAIT!!!
what??

I've ordered in July and still no shipping notification.
Chris??? Did you forgot us? [emoji46]


Invoice number 1979
Date payment 19 Jul 2015
Amount $950,00 USD

zbemerson
12th January 2016, 08:27 PM
what??

I've ordered in July and still no shipping notification.
Chris??? Did you forget us? [emoji46]

Awkwaaaaard...

Hmerly
12th January 2016, 08:32 PM
How do you secure the battery to the bay if you go inverted? I usually put a piece of velcro on my battery and the bottom of the bay and then use a foam plug like you are suggesting.


That's what the plug is for, you can make a full on housing for the battery that slides up under the lid, you can glue it right in place if you'd like, then put your lid over it. Then make a decent size plug behind the battery that you push down to the floor with Velcro, and the battery is locked in place, and no velcro has to be on the battery or the floor except behind the battery stop plug you made that goes behind the battery

hjscm
12th January 2016, 08:56 PM
Sorry, I misunderstood your question at first. The CAT7 and RJ45 cables both have 8 individual wires. I cut off either end and soldered on servo leads inside the fuse and whatever connectors I needed in the wings for the (VTx, UHF and servos). The shielding needs a drain wire that gets soldered in to the battery ground. Hope that helps.
that makes sense now. thanks just wondering how other people do it. i am trying an EMI shielded heat shrink and going to see how it works compared to the cat7.

thanks

Maj.Duty
12th January 2016, 08:59 PM
Lol zb. Hey xmimx, Chris probably just didn't send a shipping notification. I didn't get one either and then the Drak showed up

kross1
12th January 2016, 09:33 PM
Lol zb. Hey xmimx, Chris probably just didn't send a shipping notification. I didn't get one either and then the Drak showed up

Chris did say that there is a "manual checkbox" on their online application for shipping which sends the tracking info to the receiver, and a few had been accidentally overlooked.....

WillM
13th January 2016, 12:09 AM
Lol zb. Hey xmimx, Chris probably just didn't send a shipping notification. I didn't get one either and then the Drak showed up

+1. I sent Chris an email last Friday when I read a post that made me think that he was caught up on shipping, and I hadn't received a notification. I wouldn't have been looking for one if I hadn't read about them here. In any event, Chris responded right away that the package had shipped the previous week. Turns out the box was waiting for me when I got home from work. :)

ritewing
13th January 2016, 12:39 AM
Yes, on some it was not, its something that happens being human, sorry guys.

I should have all orders out this week if all goes well. Then will see if i missed any,LOL.
I am sure trying guys, I have only had turkey day and Christmas off since June.

ritewing
13th January 2016, 12:41 AM
You make wedges from the foam block, they keep it perfectly secure.My lid does not open above the battery, my bat slides in the nose, the lid opens behind the back end of the battery. This allows you to make a snug pocket for the bat out of the fuse plug.
Your wing shipped out today BTW

How do you secure the battery to the bay if you go inverted? I usually put a piece of velcro on my battery and the bottom of the bay and then use a foam plug like you are suggesting.

xmimx
13th January 2016, 02:11 AM
Yes, on some it was not, its something that happens being human, sorry guys.

I should have all orders out this week if all goes well. Then will see if i missed any,LOL.
I am sure trying guys, I have only had turkey day and Christmas off since June.
Not blaming or flaming you Chris. You did an incredible job and big respect for that.

I'll drop you an email so you could perhaps double check.

It's just that we have had some issues in the near past with the post services delivering my packages to the wrong adress a few times. I just would become crazy if I see some kid flying my Drak [emoji12]

ritewing
13th January 2016, 02:14 AM
No problem, email me with your invoice number, and no worries , I did not take it that way. Just letting you guys know what we're planning here.

oleg_t
13th January 2016, 02:21 AM
My lid does not open above the battery, my bat slides in the nose, the lid opens behind the back end of the battery
Would like to hear how you balance your plane in this case should you change your gear configuration later on or change batteries.

ritewing
13th January 2016, 02:24 AM
That's easy, make all plugs that hold the battery removable and adjustable. Then adjust as needed. It's that easy. On my small bats they go way forward, on my big bats they sit back and have a spacer in the nose holding them back so it CG'S

Tomstoy
13th January 2016, 03:45 AM
Chris, thanks for the explanation why gluing the front hatch. Makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

Jeeze, this kit is so cool.

swisseagle
13th January 2016, 06:56 AM
I couldnt resist to open the parcel delivered just before going to work this morning. Feeling happy :)
thanks Chris, the 2 draks look great, and cant wait to get started
greetings from Switzerland
-dan

69437

Twawsi
13th January 2016, 08:12 AM
Il primo drago in Italia! The first Drak in Italy. Man this is nice!

ginger1302
13th January 2016, 10:53 AM
Im about to head out and get the silver solder and go to class. I hate bugging you when you are so busy but just reminding you like you said yesterday about the pdf jig for the elevons. Oh and once again great job on all of this.

stocki
13th January 2016, 12:24 PM
Is there a supplier for the drak in Germany or Europe that can deliver this ?

tibor
13th January 2016, 12:43 PM
Is there a supplier for the drak in Germany or Europe that can deliver this ?
I don't think there is any supplier yet. Probably in the future. So right now the best is to order from Chris.

richardhageman74
13th January 2016, 12:52 PM
Check the build tread. E-store Rotterdam in the Netherlands should be able to deliver it

tibor
13th January 2016, 01:02 PM
I don't think there is any supplier yet. Probably in the future. So right now the best is to order from Chris.
Sorry, you can pre-order.
http://shop.righthere.nu/fpv-uav-planes-and-parts/ritewing-drak.html

Maj.Duty
13th January 2016, 01:14 PM
Is the vinyl wrap that is marketed for wrapping vehicles the same basic stuff we wrap our planes in? Like from this place: http://www.metrorestyling.com/
Curious because looking at the “application supplies” much of it is liquid primers and other fluids. So is this vinyl not applied with an iron and maybe not the right type of stuff for our aircraft… or is it basically all the same? They sell many different brands…

Hoss
13th January 2016, 01:42 PM
Is the vinyl wrap that is marketed for wrapping vehicles the same basic stuff we wrap our planes in? Like from this place: http://www.metrorestyling.com/
Curious because looking at the “application supplies” much of it is liquid primers and other fluids. So is this vinyl not applied with an iron and maybe not the right type of stuff for our aircraft… or is it basically all the same? They sell many different brands…

EDIT: Sorry, I just now realized that nowhere did you mention carbon fiber... just vinyl car wrap. So... below may not apply :)

I don't know personally of any iron-on stuff (although it very well may exist), but I got the adhesive-backed 3M stuff from amazon, as well as some other kinds (non 3M). There's a ton if you search for "vinyl carbon fiber". Here's a link to one of the ones I got a hold of. The other was much cheaper and wasn't gloss - don't know what you're looking for... but the 3M is very high quality and looks good. Let me know if you find a laminate type, although the way laminate shrinks, I don't know that a pattern print would come out looking too good unless it didn't shrink. Oh, and yes, car wrap is what the majority of guys are using.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchprint-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl/dp/B0058DIDTY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452706615&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+carbon+fiber

Maj.Duty
13th January 2016, 02:09 PM
Oh…so is the material Chris is using in the video on the elevons not a vinyl wrap, then? He’s using an iron…but maybe that is just to help the adhesive stick down better. I thought it was always ironed on these planes but I’ve never used the stuff before so I have no idea.

I’m considering covering just the wings in a snow camo pattern and the fuse will be bare EPP grey and some black paint. I like the geometric pattern like on the SU-35 picture attached and think that pattern fits the lines of the Drak well but so far the only buying option I’ve come across is an entire carton. All the other patterns you can buy by the yard.

69441

Hoss
13th January 2016, 02:11 PM
Oh…so is the material Chris is using in the video on the elevons not a vinyl wrap, then? He’s using an iron…but maybe that is just to help the adhesive stick down better. I thought it was always ironed on these planes but I’ve never used the stuff before so I have no idea.

I’m considering covering just the wings in a snow camo pattern and the fuse will be bare EPP grey and some black paint. I like the geometric pattern like on the SU-35 picture attached and think that pattern fits the lines of the Drak well but so far the only buying option I’ve come across is an entire carton. All the other patterns you can buy by the yard.

69441
That's pretty cool.

Chris is laminating. Attaching temporarily using "hinge tape" (packing tape), then laminating to attach to the wing. I'm trying to figure out where you're talking about that threw you off... Spar them, laminate them, attach them with little pieces of tape and lam over permanently. On second thought, he might not even lam them on - I usually do, but that's with balsa. I'll go back and look. Might just be with packing tape.

kross1
13th January 2016, 02:55 PM
The elevons are laminated in Chris's video.

Lamination is applying a plastic skin, which is heat shrinkable with an iron. "lam" comes in different thicknesses, Chris is selling clear lam as an option with this kit. This process is similar to applying Monokote over a balsa/ply stick-built plane (the "old-school" way). Laminate requires more heat than the conventional Monokote-skin.

On the DRAK, consensus seems to be paint first, then clear-lam over the paint. You need either the laminate and/or PlastiDip paint on the elevons, ir order for the tape to stick. The EPP itself doesn't adhere well. Some are laminating the whole plane, some just elevons, some wing leading edges, all personal preferences.

Now, the vinyl car-wraps..... I haven't used them yet, but it goes on like the laminate with a bit of heat to get it to flex/shrink over curves. I don't know, but I expect it takes less heat.

Bet you knew all that, sorry to ramble.

Maj.Duty
13th January 2016, 03:14 PM
I'm getting mixed up between laminating and vinyl covering. I thought they were the same thing.

I guess my next question is then, can vinyl be used in our application?

kross1
13th January 2016, 03:24 PM
Nope.

Very similar though!

Vinyl coatings used on a car are meant to be removed fairly easily, leaving no residue behind. Designed for wrapping/covering a car, and being removable w/o ruining the expensive original paint job on the car. We're just using it on planes instead. They can be thick and heavy too, compared to laminate or Monokote coverings (I may be wrong).

Laminate is meant as a fairly permanent skin added for strength/rigidity (or paint protection). I think by reheating it you could remove it, but probably leave glue-goo behind (I may be wrong).

The traditional "Monokote" could be used as well, I think I've read discussions about it on foam planes. It is thinner/lighter than laminate, and it requires a little less heat (same caveat applies, I am not a guru re: coverings).

Maj.Duty
13th January 2016, 03:35 PM
Hmmm, thank you.

I'm doing some reading and apparently laminating over vinyl is fairly common but that is in a car application. I have some experience with Monokote...

Now I wish I had a test wing to practice on to see if vinyl or vinyl plus laminate is possible or desirable.

Hmerly
13th January 2016, 04:01 PM
Paint then lam then vinyl. However, I would not recommend it. Most of the carbon vinyl you can buy end up being unnecessary weight. They are heavy relatively speaking. They all tend to suffer hangar rash and damage easily from landings. I wouldn't recommend it. However, using it sparingly to highlight areas would look nice. Just don't wrap the whole wing.

Hoss
13th January 2016, 04:19 PM
Nope.

Very similar though!

Vinyl coatings used on a car are meant to be removed fairly easily, leaving no residue behind. Designed for wrapping/covering a car, and being removable w/o ruining the expensive original paint job on the car. We're just using it on planes instead. They can be thick and heavy too, compared to laminate or Monokote coverings (I may be wrong).

Laminate is meant as a fairly permanent skin added for strength/rigidity (or paint protection). I think by reheating it you could remove it, but probably leave glue-goo behind (I may be wrong).

The traditional "Monokote" could be used as well, I think I've read discussions about it on foam planes. It is thinner/lighter than laminate, and it requires a little less heat (same caveat applies, I am not a guru re: coverings).
All correct imo.

Removing laminate is usually only done if you're re-covering or have to do a repair, and yes, it leaves behind the glue. If you rip it off cold, chunks of foam are coming with it (if it's good laminate). The Drak is a bit different - in that it's not like a normal epp plane that is a bit flimsy until laminated and turning it into a rock. It's already pretty freaking strong on its own. The only benefit, besides protection, in laminating all or parts of the Drak (beyond the elevons) that I see is if you're running a really heavy setup and want to strengthen the portion of the wings beyond the spars. Also, if you crash a lot, laminate is a good idea. A covering of 5 mil (and sometimes doubled up in some sections) can make a plane virtually indestructible.

Hoss
13th January 2016, 04:22 PM
Paint then lam then vinyl. However, I would not recommend it. Most of the carbon vinyl you can buy end up being unnecessary weight. They are heavy relatively speaking. They all tend to suffer hangar rash and damage easily from landings. I wouldn't recommend it. However, using it sparingly to highlight areas would look nice. Just don't wrap the whole wing.
Agreed - highlights and accents if desired, but you'd need another cell to push the pig around if you wrapped the whole plane.

Maj.Duty
13th January 2016, 04:29 PM
After years of debate and speculation and eye witness accounts it has finally been proven that pigs in fact can fly:

69445

WillM
13th January 2016, 04:31 PM
Laminate is coated with a dry adhesive on one side, that melts and becomes sticky with heat. Laminate or 'lam' is applied using an iron. The purpose of laminating foam is to make it stronger; the laminate adds strength, rigidity, and a protective layer to the foam. Most laminate is translucent milky-white, that becomes clear and glossy after the ironing process. There are various thicknesses of laminate, but even the thinnest version used on foam planes is relatively strong. It also sticks very securely to the foam. Because the laminate is strong, and sticks to foam, it can be used for hinging elevons. There are specialty 'laminating' irons, which I think most of us use, though some people use their clothing irons. "Laminate" irons are also used to apply Monokote.

Monokote is similar to laminate in that it is 'dry' and becomes tacky when heated, and that it requires an iron for installation. However Monokote it is very thin, colorful, and not very strong. Monokote is designed to tighten and shrink a bit as it is applied. It was/is used to coat/'skin' balsa-frame airplanes. The monokote sticks to the balsa frame, and it shrinks and stiffens a bit. IMHO, Monokote adds a bit of rigidity, but not much strength. The primary reason for covering foam with Monokote is for looks - it is available in dozens of colors and patterns. Since Monokote is thin and a bit fragile, it cannot be used to hinge elevons. On anything except balsa planes, Monokote is for decoration only.

Vinyl is an adhesive-backed covering. It will come with a backing that gets peeled off, which exposes the sticky surface. Just like a bumper sticker. The only reason to add it to a foam plane is for decoration. The adhesive in vinyl films are generally not as strong as laminate. You cannot use vinyl for hinging elevons - it will peel or stretch. The only reason I would cover a RC plane with vinyl is for appearance, and perhaps a little surface protection to the foam. It will not add a lot of strength, and could add a lot of weight. Use it sparingly.

Monokote is fairly light. Laminate and vinyl are at least a little heavier, and in thicker varieties, can be a lot heavier. The stuff made specifically for covering cars (ie 'vehicle wrap') can be very, very heavy.

If you want to add stiffness to the plane, laminate it.
If you want to add color to the plane, use vinyl, paint, or plastidip.
If you want to add stiffness and color with vinyl, I would laminate first, then add vinyl.
If you want to add stiffness and color with paint or Plastidip first, then laminate.

To change the color of the coroplast covers, I would use vinyl.

I would not use monokote at all.
A good general-purpose vinyl is Oracal 651. Slightly thinner (and lighter) and easier to work with is Oracal 751.

On the Drak, I will add color with some plastidip. I will build and install the elevons with 3ml or 5ml laminate as shown in the video (you cannot use vinyl or monokote as a substitute, they will not be stiff enough). Other than the elevons, I don't think I will laminate much, if at all, on the Drak. Perhaps just the leading edge of the wings. I have not gotten that far into it, yet.

Hope this helps,

Will

Maj.Duty
13th January 2016, 05:20 PM
Perfect. Thank you for that detailed post.

In the past I think Chris hinged with only packing tape (e.g. Zephyr II). I could be wrong and maybe he also laminated over the packing tape back then.
I'll be doing it exactly as in the video...a little tape Z hinging followed by laminate.... and adding a little color sparingly to other areas.

Hoss
13th January 2016, 05:27 PM
Perfect. Thank you for that detailed post.

In the past I think Chris hinged with only packing tape (e.g. Zephyr II). I could be wrong and maybe he also laminated over the packing tape back then.
I'll be doing it exactly as in the video...a little tape Z hinging followed by laminate.... and adding a little color sparingly to other areas.
That's a solid plan.

A little colored packing tape as well as vinyl marking tape or even auto detailing (pin striping, etc) stuff can work as well. There's a ton of options, but for the build itself, some good quality 5 mil for the parts that require it is all you need.

I have the same basic plan as you - do the elevons according to the instructions, probably highlight with some carbon fiber print I have and I got a pretty sick vinyl dragon decal that I'll put out on one of the wings. I may end up covering the whole plane with 5 mil - not sure. Going to test a little on some spare foam from the block to see how it looks.

Tomstoy
13th January 2016, 05:45 PM
Never mind. A picture is worth a thousand words, indeed!

terbeaux
13th January 2016, 06:38 PM
Keep in mind that packing tape breaks down from UV and becomes a giant mess unless you laminate over it.
Also, if you use the carbon fiber look vinyl and the laminate over it it will look like crap. The carbon vinyl does offer scuff and minor impact protection, looks hella cool and it's easy to apply. It does not add strength like lam does.

Hoss
13th January 2016, 07:04 PM
Keep in mind that packing tape breaks down from UV and becomes a giant mess unless you laminate over it.
Also, if you use the carbon fiber look vinyl and the laminate over it it will look like crap. The carbon vinyl does offer scuff and minor impact protection, looks hella cool and it's easy to apply. It does not add strength like lam does.
For sure. Lam, then vinyl. Leading edges, possibly bay covers and or stabilizers. Laminating over colored packing tape needs to be done very carefully as its so thin that it'll melt almost immediately after heat hits it. The stuff I have holds up pretty well - still have planes that are a couple years old that look mint that are 100% packing tape (experimental airlines builds). Have the stuff from tape brothers. It's pretty good quality stuff.


One thing to note about tape, and I don't know why anyone would on a bird of this caliber (but I've seen crazier things happen) is that duct tape gets terribly distorted in the sun, so use a lot of thought if you plan to put it anywhere. The "duck" brand is one of the only that I've seen that can withstand sun.

But you shouldn't put duct tape on a Drak anyway.

Hmerly
13th January 2016, 07:31 PM
Oracal631 is a fantastic vinyl that I would recommend if you want to add colors without using plastic dip. It sticks very nicely and stays in place, goes around bends and curves with a little heat and is re-applicable if you mess up. It holds up well and has a 3 year shelf life, although thats rated for indoors. I have used this vinyl in my Z2 and its still fantastic looking after 4 years. It stick very well to the laminate we use on our planes. Its also not as heavy as a lot of the faux carbon fiber vinyl you see a lot on ebay.

ginger1302
13th January 2016, 07:38 PM
Anybody have the pdf for the elevon jig?

ritewing
13th January 2016, 08:03 PM
Dale and I were working on it today, he has it done, I think you going to post it up in the build thread

ginger1302
13th January 2016, 08:09 PM
Im pretty much down to that but i can't seem to find my propellers for it so Im about to order some more lol. Anytime in the next couple days is fine for me.

Hoss
13th January 2016, 08:11 PM
Anybody got pics of their progress? I'm sure we'd all appreciate some shots of some Drak babies.

Tomstoy
13th January 2016, 08:23 PM
Anybody got pics of their progress? I'm sure we'd all appreciate some shots of some Drak babies.

Mine is still hatching!

Mcrock
13th January 2016, 10:58 PM
I am am thinking of .3mm DI laminate from Alofthobbies..
Should be the bees knees.

Cheers M

HFMan
13th January 2016, 11:01 PM
Why? .3 mm is way too thin to be of any benefit, and will probably look like crap unless you sand and fill.

ritewing
13th January 2016, 11:05 PM
Exactly why?

ritewing
13th January 2016, 11:07 PM
I find that the three distorts and shrinks like crazy, and adds no real protection

Hmerly
13th January 2016, 11:12 PM
Chris' 5mm laminate is fantastic. It sticks really really well.

Hoss
13th January 2016, 11:17 PM
I am am thinking of .3mm DI laminate from Alofthobbies..
Should be the bees knees.

Cheers M
I'd either do Chris's stuff if that's an option, or 5 mil from getfpv. Maybe aloft has good stuff, don't know, but I do know the stuff from Chris as well as getfpv is very high quality. 3 mil is too light.

swisseagle
14th January 2016, 02:00 AM
getting started with build planning. I plan to fly the drak with FPV gear on, around the swiss alps all the year around. I trust the Drak, given that it's made of epp will be no prob, but.. what is the durability of the building materials such as laminate film, goop, gorilla at low temperature and strong UV (during sunlight)?

gobigdale
14th January 2016, 02:18 AM
Anybody have the pdf for the elevon jig?

Elevon Trim Jigg
69458

EHLO
14th January 2016, 02:47 AM
getting started with build planning. I plan to fly the drak with FPV gear on, around the swiss alps all the year around. I trust the Drak, given that it's made of epp will be no prob, but.. what is the durability of the building materials such as laminate film, goop, gorilla at low temperature and strong UV (during sunlight)?
There will be several Drak in the Swiss sky :-D
Got my shipping notification yesterday !

Mcrock
14th January 2016, 02:49 AM
That DI film is a little different. .. I have used it successfully on builds as well as the .5mm one.
Thinking about weight here tho as the Drak wing looks tough anyway.
I will make a final decision later.
M

route81
14th January 2016, 04:17 AM
There will be several Drak in the Swiss sky :-D
Got my shipping notification yesterday !

He He.. they ****ed the Gripen so we go DRAKEN! (sorry, probably only for a Swiss audience...)
j.

tibor
14th January 2016, 10:28 AM
Elevon Trim Jigg
69458

This seems a lot of reflex...

ritewing
14th January 2016, 11:17 AM
The trim jig goes south of the servo adjacent to the control horn like the video shows, the trim is set up for a slightly nose heavy aircraft, this gives you great stability on your initial launch and your first flight. Once you get it up and flying you can back to CG back about a quarter of an inch, but I wouldn't go any farther than that. I have been flying mine at about this point and it works great. One thing about this aircraft that most of you don't understand because you're used to flying wings that have twist in the airfoil to create stability, this aircraft does not have any twist in it at all, so a slight amount of reflex and being slightly nose heavy gives it stability. This plan form with the forward swept wings gives you one of the most stable aircraft you've ever flown.

tibor
14th January 2016, 11:35 AM
Thanks Chris for the explanation.
Mine is out for delivery!!! ;)

Hoss
14th January 2016, 11:46 AM
The trim jig goes south of the servo adjacent to the control horn like the video shows, the trim is set up for a slightly nose heavy aircraft, this gives you great stability on your initial launch and your first flight. Once you get it up and flying you can back to CG back about a quarter of an inch, but I wouldn't go any farther than that. I have been flying mine at about this point and it works great. One thing about this aircraft that most of you don't understand because you're used to flying wings that have twist in the airfoil to create stability, this aircraft does not have any twist in it at all, so a slight amount of reflex and being slightly nose heavy gives it stability. This plan form with the forward swept wings gives you one of the most stable aircraft you've ever flown.
The airfoil is symmetrical as well, correct? Most wings have asymmetric airfoils, which generate lift just by the process of moving through the air. With a symmetrical airfoil, lift is not generated by airflow alone but rather is directly proportional to the angle of attack, so the nose must be up to maintain level flight. Hence, more reflex than normal. Of course, that all goes to shit if I'm wrong and it's not a symmetrical airfoil :)

tibor
14th January 2016, 12:39 PM
Mine is HERE!!!
69475
69476
69477

Maj.Duty
14th January 2016, 01:01 PM
Judging by the root the wing is damn near fully symmetrical. The bottom is ever so slightly flatter than the top making it technically semi-symetrical

ritewing
14th January 2016, 01:05 PM
Semi foil with no built in reflex, an A Sym foil would suck on this plane, it would change its attitude and flight manners as it flys faster and slower, so I only have enough lift for what it needs, but not to much to cause poor handling.

Maj.Duty
14th January 2016, 05:51 PM
Back when I built my very first airplane, a full on kit that was a box full of balsa sticks, sheet and some blocks, I was appalled to learn the wing was held on by only rubber bands. I thought, how the heck is that 78” high wing going to stay on coming out of a loop?! Reluctantly, I utilized the rubber bands as intended and never had a single problem. Of course I put about 3X the number of rubber bands on than required.

Fast forward to this awesome plane and I have similar anxieties thinking about that single piece of Velcro holding on the wings on a big, relatively heavy plane. I totally understand this is not a new concept and it is proven to be sufficient and the Drak has had many, many flights put on it by Chris and several other lucky people with prototypes and there has been no issues whatsoever but I still squirm a little considering it.

With the wing mounted you can pull the leading edge wing root away from the fuselage a tiny bit, if you pull on it. Again, I understand that that type of force will not be applied to the wing in the air but still…. I think I will at least apply a piece of tape to the leading edge at the root to help keep the wing secure, for my own comfort level and not an improvement on design.

What I may even do is copy Freewing’s F-15 wing attachment. It would require inserting 2 screws every time you attach the wings and most people won’t want to bother with that nor feel that it is necessary. It’s not necessary….but for five bucks I ordered the pieces anyway and will look into integrating them onto the Drak.

richardhageman74
14th January 2016, 06:18 PM
Finally, almost done. 69484

Only battery-bay to fix

69485

Maj.Duty
14th January 2016, 06:23 PM
Nice. Thank you for sharing. Show us some pictures of the gear mounting?

ginger1302
14th January 2016, 06:25 PM
Lol I think a lot of us are stealing Chris's color scheme. I did mine in red and black though.