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ElectricEvan369
3rd July 2014, 07:01 PM
I thought I would start a blog to cover some of the creations I have been working on.

Pictures will be added as I go but for now first post is just text to outline each project car.

For all of my vehicles I plan to design a modular bruce simpson style fpv backpack but the caveat is I would like to make it gyro stabilized to handle the crawling pitch and roll and also dampened to withstand some high speed vibration from going really fast, ambitious yes but not unreasonable.

First up Is my axial based crawler this has been in a state of destruction and rebirth for the past few years but with my recent interest in fpv this seems like one of the best platforms for a rover style vehicle.
goals for the crawler : modular chassis style to accommodate a mars rover style robot arm and also a snow plow for plowing my driveway in the winter :)
At the moment I have it spec'd to carry two 7 amp hour lead acid batteries in parallel for the weight and a good amount of mah to dig into if I need some amps for torque.

Second car Is my current speed run vehicle a Tekno sct410 and some specs:
video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-Qt40dNw-M
Mamba monster 2 esc or castle xl2 depending on batteries and distance running
Castle 1717 x01 1650kv motor
17mm hub conversion and balanced x01 tires
Balanced center driveshaft to withstand 30k rpm
500k wt fluid in the center differential 250k up front 50k in the rear
34/44 gearing for street 29/44 for dirt
So far this vehicle has proven itself a monster in the baltimore rc drag racing scene reaching speeds of 56mph on 4s for playing around 6s hits 68-70 depending on wind and on 8s it cranks out to 89-93 depending on the wind direction all of these speeds were radar read at 500 feet from the start point.

And finally my new 500 foot drag race monster in progress
Mugen mbx7 buggy to be converted to 1/8 on road street car
Hand cut 6061 4mm thick chassis to accommodate two 10k-15k mah 6s lipos in series.
castle 2028 780kv motor
China source fightercat oem 300amp 16s esc (if anyone knows of a 12s stable esc that doesnt catch on fire every few runs I am open to all suggestions but no castle stuff they screwed me out of warranty 3 times now in reguard to ripple voltage)
hand cut 12mm thick motor mount to straddle the center shaft
custom cut 52 tooth module 1 pitch 8mm bore d2 tool steel pinion gear
The goal of this car is at least 20 100mph passes without overheating or sagging the lipos hence the massive battery capacity and custom chassis

Any suggestions or concerns are welcome and if anyone else would like to build a speed run car I am more than willing to help :)

ElectricEvan369
8th July 2014, 01:52 PM
Update on Mugen mbx7 progress spent an hour last night hack sawing the 6061 plate into a usable chassis to accommodate the extra batteries and the big castle 2028 motor.

Here's a pic of what the chassis looked like before hack sawing. First thing I did was transfer punch, drill and countersink all of the factory drivetrain mounting holes
http://s10.postimg.org/p7lbxedix/mugen_chassis.jpg

Heres the chassis cut and ready to drill and file the 4 keyed square holes for the hinge pin braces. http://s27.postimg.org/n14k7atab/mugen_chassis_2.jpg

Here's a pic of the rear end and four 6061 aluminum angles that will make up the battery mounts http://s11.postimg.org/sfa5cbd5v/mugen_chassis3.jpg

And finally a comparison photo of the castle 2028 motor next to a standard 540 size castle 1410 and a spray paint can :) http://s1.postimg.org/y0av6pt0f/motorpic.jpg

Tonight I'm going to drill and tap the four 1.5"x1.5"x7" 6061 aluminum L's with about 60 m4 holes a piece and countersink the chassis with the corresponding 92 degree screw head angle using a re-ground single flute countersink so no screws will stick out the bottom of the chassis.

Roboforcer X2000
8th July 2014, 02:58 PM
I'll invite myself on board for the ride:)

ElectricEvan369
8th July 2014, 03:23 PM
I'll invite myself on board for the ride:)

Thanks I'm going to need some fret saw wisdom when it comes time to start making use of the big sheet of g11 I just ordered:D and would love some of your input, your hex build was awesome!

ElectricEvan369
8th July 2014, 04:07 PM
Fedex just dropped off some more fpv goodies today now im almost 100% fpv on the ground and about 20% fpv in the air:cool:

http://s28.postimg.org/g208zuky5/goodies.jpg

ElectricEvan369
9th July 2014, 11:17 AM
After what seemed like an hours worth of layout, measuring and deciding on a reasonable screw spacing and geometry I settled on 32 holes per aluminum L. I was then able to breeze through drilling the aluminum L's and the chassis with the same pattern. I countersunk the chassis's 128 holes in under 30 minutes thanks to a drill stop made of a hose clamp and an old sine bar.

Most of the evening was spent hand tapping the 128 m4 holes in the 6061 L's I can say without a doubt I don't recommend trying this without a tapping fixture or tapping head my wrist is killing me and Ill be patient next time and send the parts out to a friend with a tapping head:rolleyes:.

http://s16.postimg.org/5l7a124hx/mugen2.jpg

But it did come out nice and other than being short about 50 m4x6 screws I'm ready to start on the motor mount.

http://s28.postimg.org/8azx9udst/mugen3.jpg

here's the top view

And here is a layout of all of the crap I plan to cram in the chassis. The 4s 5000mah lipos are just for reference it will be using 10000 or 12000 mah 6s cells in series when its in running condition.
http://s18.postimg.org/vjsrcrq7d/mugen4.jpg

And for scale here's the chassis next to a typical 1/8 on road body size it will use.

http://s24.postimg.org/5lks2lltx/mugen5.jpg

And just for fun here's the chassis next to a more traditional style 1/8 on road chassis and a normal 1/10 scale chassis :)
http://s9.postimg.org/mgjnrho5r/mugen6.jpg

Hans
9th July 2014, 11:29 AM
i'm following this :)

airbagit13
9th July 2014, 12:07 PM
Cool, I'm in.

ElectricEvan369
9th July 2014, 01:25 PM
This isn't exactly a surface vehicle but will be used to make many of the parts for my surface projects. I managed to score this cute little 270 pound 1940's atlas horizontal slab milling machine off of craigslist for only 300 bucks. I have about 150 pounds of tooling ordered including back gears and an overarm support and already stripped and rebuilt the knee and cross feed assemblies.
This machine was originally set up as a single operation production machine in an assembly line. The bed is rack and pinion drive with standard gib locks it was intended to be used with a long breaker bar style arm for moving the bed at a uniform feed rate I plan to keep this set up as this machine will mostly be used for its slab milling purposes but occasionally I may need to use the morse taper 2 arbor to drive a small lathe chuck for tiny parts lathing operations :D

http://s3.postimg.org/mti0hmbs3/atlas.jpg


This machine hopefully should be able to hog off steel and hard aluminum at a feed rate similar to a bridgeport but at a quarter of the size I can just wheel it outside when I need to use it. :)

One of my many goals with this machine will be to plumb and setup a single shot oil system since hitting 17 oil ports every use is kind of tedious, also to design a coolant pan and recirculating flood coolant system for tool steel work.

CMJ
10th July 2014, 12:43 PM
Awesome score for $300. I love vintage machinery. We don't usually get great deals like that in Socal.

ElectricEvan369
10th July 2014, 02:03 PM
Awesome score for $300. I love vintage machinery. We don't usually get great deals like that in Socal.

If you you have the room and power for it southern California seems to have an indefinite supply of older monstrous kearney and trecker slab mills going for scrap prices with many years of service left in them. If I had a bigger shop and 440 3 phase...I am already tempted to buy a storage unit just to put one in if I catch another deal.:rolleyes:
http://s12.postimg.org/vi6a1wkql/k_t.jpg

Roboforcer X2000
10th July 2014, 02:21 PM
That is just pure porn to me... love manual machinery!!! Over 10 years ago when I was racing nitro boats I use to make my own conrods, cooling heads etc for marine nitro engines just using manual lathe and milling machines. Needles to say a very high precision is needed there, so FY CNCs LOL
Now I desperately *NEED* hobby size at least a lathe for my DIYing, but my financial adviser (da wife) strongly disagrees...

ElectricEvan369
10th July 2014, 02:47 PM
That's awesome! Not sure what the used market is like in Ireland but over here small 9" swing south bends and atlas lathes are sub 400 pounds and usually sell for under 600 all tooled up.

CMJ
10th July 2014, 04:30 PM
If you you have the room and power for it southern California seems to have an indefinite supply of older monstrous kearney and trecker slab mills going for scrap prices with many years of service left in them. If I had a bigger shop and 440 3 phase...I am already tempted to buy a storage unit just to put one in if I catch another deal.:rolleyes:
http://s12.postimg.org/vi6a1wkql/k_t.jpg

Yeah the big behemoths are readily available. It's the small mills like Clausing, Atlas, Benchmaster and Rockwell that are hard to find.

ElectricEvan369
18th July 2014, 01:38 AM
Today I was itching to fpv something so threw my fatshark toy rtr gear on my tekno while I learn how to legally run my 1.3ghz stuff meanwhile I learned a lot about the fpv experience in general and had a bunch of fun doing it, tomorrow I plan to test a few different camera dampening methods as I don't think a street car will benefit from a gimbal but more a fluid dampened mount or something. http://s9.postimg.org/ngngvajyn/teknofpv.jpg

I did manage to log a 34 mph fpv pass on radar with the fpv vision going blurry like I was traveling through space at light speed from the vibration it was spooky, wont do that again without some sort of camera dampening :rolleyes:

Roboforcer X2000
18th July 2014, 07:13 AM
vision going blurry like I was traveling through space at light speed

Gettin' high, eh? LOL For dampening it's gonna be just trial & error, just try different things and see what's happening... It's not just small vibrations have to be dealt with, but few bumps on the road as well. For light cam my best guess these should work somehow http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40612__Vibration_Damping_Ball_50gram_8_pcs_bag_. html, or at least I personally would give a try. I've ordered few similar for my crawler, but parcel is gone for over 2 months, so can't confirm whether they work on ground vehicles, just an educated guess:)

ElectricEvan369
18th July 2014, 10:53 AM
Gettin' high, eh? LOL For dampening it's gonna be just trial & error, just try different things and see what's happening... It's not just small vibrations have to be dealt with, but few bumps on the road as well. For light cam my best guess these should work somehow http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40612__Vibration_Damping_Ball_50gram_8_pcs_bag_. html, or at least I personally would give a try. I've ordered few similar for my crawler, but parcel is gone for over 2 months, so can't confirm whether they work on ground vehicles, just an educated guess:)

I actually have a coffee can filled with various rubber and silicon dampeners from various electronics I scrapped throughout the years :o but for easy quick change testing I am going to try a few dabs of silicon in various durometers of hardness in between two sheets of carbon initially. I also have a few sneaky tricks for high speed vibration dampening that I learned from full size dragsters when I was an automotive tech I have about 20 mixes and matches of vibration isolation and dampening methods to try out today ill post results tonight and maybe figure out how to dvr my video... still unclear on how that works:confused:

Roboforcer X2000
18th July 2014, 11:25 AM
Geez, you'd do well on multicopter jello elimination, will see what you'll come up with:)

ElectricEvan369
18th July 2014, 01:36 PM
So this morning I started getting my crawler rover thing spec'd out and got most of my electronics and materials together I still need to make another massive order of nylon and titanium hardware and a few toys for servocity as I would like this vehicle to withstand harsh winter conditions.

first thing I realized was there is not a chance in hell I will be able to cram all of what I want into an axial sized crawler:p http://s28.postimg.org/u98c3ie3x/rover1.jpg


so I had to come up with a cheap solution and best I have so far is to convert my savage .25 into an electric crawler then stretch it 3 inches longer with the savage xl chassis plates and drive shafts. I am not a fan of independent suspension crawlers by any means but this seems to be the only platform that will be able to hold all of the goodies i would like it to carry. So in the nature of crawling this will get the typical crawler treatment... 500k silicon fluid in the differentials and will run 40 degree tapered .25mm 10 hole blow by pistons in the shocks with very very thin 15 weight oil to allow very fast suspension down travel but very dampened up travel.
http://s9.postimg.org/tnna3xc3j/rover2.jpg


The way too overly complex robot arm I plan to build will utilize pneumatics in two single action spring return retract pistons for the gripper,an on board compressor capable of quietly producing 90 psi at only 12 amps of load :D and a little buffer tank to smooth'n the pressure variations, also servo driven cable plant clipper and some rudimentary hydraulics for a type of "wrist" action using servo driven amber syringes filled with antifreeze and connected with tygon tubing. For lifting and pivot action I will be using a servocity top mount 7:1 servo transmission in conjunction with a spare axial ax10 transmission as well as 5 gear motors linked two to a joint with a solo using s3m timing belts and pulleys for the accessory locomotion.

Depending on how many channels I can squeeze out of my taranis I may have to hack up my spare dx6i just for this robot arm control. Either way in my current design the arm is using 6 esc's 5 gear motors 3 v tail mixers 2 servos to drive the hydraulic syringes 1 servo to drive the cable cutter and one servo to operate the air valve My goal is to be able to pick up and collect in an onboard hopper rocks up to 2 pounds and clip plant samples and collect them for the fiance when were out forest exploring.

Most importantly it must be strong and durable enough to withstand a rollover or even a tumble down the side of a slope and be able to self right if up side down. A huge ambitious idea yes... but I don't think it's too unrealistic. http://s27.postimg.org/r9lutcmeb/rover3.jpg




and of course the most important pic the suspension flex ;)
http://s23.postimg.org/q85ctuml7/rover4.jpg

ElectricEvan369
25th July 2014, 03:04 PM
Yesterday I got to gut a piece of rc history older than me of its vital organs and allow them a new life in a new machine. ;)

It was an extremely complex built f14 twin nitro fan jet over 7 feet long, it had full pneumatic retracts air brakes on the wheels and speed brakes also some really cool home made adjustable output air valves.

These air cylinders and valves will replace my idea of syringes as hydraulic cylinders since they can be incorporated into my existing pneumatic circuit.

http://s18.postimg.org/3kkva7yp5/pneumatics.jpg

ElectricEvan369
21st September 2014, 11:29 AM
I thought I would give a little update on my shenanigans in the fpv world I made a big career switch from the hobby industry to the sewer pipeline inspection and rehabilitation industry and now I get to work with some really neat fpv equipment so I thought it would be nice to share. :)

First up is the fpv crawler itself: it weighs in at 16 pounds fully loaded or about 12 with stripped down features, mostly we use it in a configuration best suited to squeezing around obstacles and collapsed pipes as baltimore is crumbling from the inside out lol. It also tips the scales of ridiculous in that every single component and structural piece is either hard anodized 2024 aluminum or naval brass with the side axle output plates being made from solid blocks of 6al4v titanium even the screws are corrosive gas stable. The camera and the crawler are sealed using precision machined surfaces no o rings or gaskets are used just built to aerospace tolerance, it uses a mix of argon gas and some fillers to pressurize the crawler body and camera housing up to 50 psi to help the electronic components withstand the harsh sewer gas environment and keep the poo water out of the system. The crawler is tethered and typically runs off of a reel of 500 feet length but our reel control system can accept up to 900 feet of cable. http://s13.postimg.org/ay26pqo0n/tfe1.jpg

Heres one of the 6 jet trucks in our fleet at work it runs various types of nozzles and cutters and kinetic energy methods of pipe cleaning it averages 2500 psi at over 100gpm while we have two trucks that run 2" hose that can push 2800 psi at 150 gpm. Here you can see my buddy angelo waiting while the truck dumps its water as we had just finished up this job and the jet truck operators don't like to drive the trucks with 8000 gallons of water on board. The jet truck also has one of the most terrifying vacuums I have ever seen in my life as it is capable of sucking up anything that can fit in its hose or can suck bricks straight out of the bottom of a manhole at scary velocities. http://s16.postimg.org/6u9eb4hhh/tfe.jpg

So this is what I have been playing with lately and now with this new job I will have a little bit more funds for fpv fun so ill be updating as I start working on my stuff again.

Roboforcer X2000
21st September 2014, 12:29 PM
So your job is FPVing in the pipes full of kaka... LOL

ElectricEvan369
21st September 2014, 01:37 PM
So your job is FPVing in the pipes full of kaka... LOL Yup lol and I get to service and maintain a fleet of these little poo robots its actually a really neat job if you are comfortable with getting sewer mystery goo on yourself daily. :)