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terabyte
13th December 2013, 06:00 PM
Introducing the CineTank Mk I. This quadcopter frame is designed and made in-house with the goal of getting you flying without the fuss. We took everything that frustrated us about all the other options out there and we engineered something better. From our innovative vibration isolation system to our cylindrical carbon fiber mounting system, we made a product that the FPV\AP connoisseur would lust after.
FREE SHIPPING IN THE CONUS

Weight: 478.14 grams

Available at -
flyingcinema.com (http://flyingcinema.com/cinetank.html)
multirotorsuperstore.com (http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/frames/cinetank-mk1.html)
urbandrones.com (http://www.urbandrones.com/Flying-Cinema-Cinetank-Quad-Copter_p_197.html)
readymaderc.com (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_343&products_id=2398)
multirotorgear.com (http://www.multirotorgear.com/p/8772815/cinetank-mk1-fpv-quad.html)-Australia
pitchpump.de (http://www.pitchpump.de/shop/rahmen/rosewhite-rahmen/115/cinetank-mk.-i-fpv-rahmen)-Germany
305drones.com (http://www.305drones.com/product-p/cinetank.htm)
multicopterbuilders.com (http://multicopterbuilders.com/collections/frames/products/cinetank-mk-i)
extremehobbiesmiami.com (http://extremehobbiesmiami.com/index.php/cinetank-mk-i-kit.html)-has rtf kits (call them)
flitefpv.com (http://www.flitefpv.com/epages/BT4685.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4685/Products/cinetank)-UK


https://vimeo.com/79869877

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtaPvT5aBOw


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/11340823913_7160fe7776_c.jpg



Assembly Manual Download Here (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rpapp9zonnugads/TsJPi14nmM/20000%20Rev04%20Full.pdf)
3d Model (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rpapp9zonnugads/OcymW0W-C5/20002%20Rev04.EASM) and Viewer (http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/)

Features
No Jello or vibration in your video
No props in view even with GoPro Wide settings
Carbon Fiber Arms that provide better aerodynamics and vibration dampening
G10 Phenolic frame with honeycomb design to add strength and drastically reduce weight, also RF transparent for better range
All hardware is hex 3mm stainless steel, only one tool needed to assemble the frame
Wera hex driver included with every frame kit
Flight controller mounting holes to support cc3d, Revo, Naze32, KK2, ArduPilot and many more
Integrated Motor Mounts support universal 16mm x 19mm bolt pattern motors
Motor Mounts support inverted motors for X8-Octocopter layout (in Development)
The dirty section (bottom) has walls to increase strength and tortional rigidity of the copter and also protects your ESCs
Camera plate adjust fore and aft to change CoG and help you balance your craft
Wires from motors can be routed via the carbon fiber tubes to protect them in the event of a crash
The motor mounts are designed to protect the motors and the motor wires in the event of a crash
Low profile landing gear pads
Every part will be available for replacement individually
The quad frame is manufactured in-house in the USA!

Battery compartment size; 30H*48W*126L (In mm)

30mm Tall (with stock spacers) we have tried up to 40mm standoffs with the CC3D on a case and the battery going under the FC.
48mm, 43.25mm and 38.5mm Wide if standoffs are adjusted.
126mm Deep at least (if you put a bare flight controller in the middle position of the clean section)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3808/12330491923_4f9b2b9673_b.jpg

We have provisions for mounting a flight controller forward of middle which gets you another 30mm+ of battery space without the battery having to stick out. We understand some people want their FC in the center of the frame but in our testing it hasnt made any noticeable difference. Sinewaz (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtaPvT5aBOw) moved his REVO into the forward position and didnt notice any changes in flight characteristics either.


Recommended Power System
SunnySky X2216 1250kv (http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/motors/17/sunnysky-x2216-1250kv-brushless-motor.html) or Tiger MT2216 1100kv

BS30 RapidESC 30amp (SimonK) (http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/escs/48/bs30-rapidesc-30amp-simonk.html) or Afro ESC 30Amp

4s 3300 for sport flying (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_216&products_id=898)

4s 4000 for endurance (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_216&products_id=1994)

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/11358349934_7e94c30b43_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2849/10873621166_9532dbc5af_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/10873582065_6dba8e0bbe_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3712/10874361864_c45d5b4999_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5494/10873619636_794e479003_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/10873901993_d1a181481c_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2811/10873726904_0df6c5c0cb_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2861/10873583505_a0c1877232_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3702/10873620696_fc3cce9035_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/10873903043_8a5e36e4f1_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2867/10872763293_fef81610a8_c.jpg


Some of the features that gives this quad its tank-like toughness is how we interface the inner-mount with the g10 chassis. As you can see in the picture below, the mount keys into the frame. And then you run 4 screws that sandwich the frame, the clamps, frame, and landing gear all together. There are 6 standoffs in the middle of the dirty section as well for good measure, for a total of 22 fastening points that go through the dirty section.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/11362408296_7cb4791516_b.jpg

That reminds me. We used 16mm tube so if you are in a pinch and you broke an arm you can go to the LHS and buy a tailboom for an Align T-rex 500 and make your own. Arm Replacement Template (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogh34inlf6xiquu/Arm%20Replacement%20Template.PDF)

alexedit
13th December 2013, 06:05 PM
It's finally here. I've seen this beast in person and know the guys who make it, right here in USA. This copter will change the game. They took the time in the design phase and didn't cut corners.
Congratulations guys and welcome to the LAB!

terabyte
13th December 2013, 06:08 PM
Thanks a bunch Alex that really means a lot coming from you.

bllama
13th December 2013, 06:14 PM
Thanks man!

Zeeflyboy
13th December 2013, 06:25 PM
Really nice, and good promo vid too - enjoyed that.... especially the m2 printer as I have one too lol.

looks badass too!


What landing gear options will you have though - I had issues taking off from anything but short grass or hard surfaces with my QAV500 until fitting the gear to raise it up a bit.

saucisse
13th December 2013, 06:31 PM
Looks like a really well put together frame ! Really like the video intro! Wish you guys good luck! Competition can only be good for us, customers or should I say ''addics'' lol

Quick question that comes in mind, how did you pick the dampeners that you have and how good would it be in cold climate? The reason I'm asking is that no matter which frame I pick none can '' deliver '' the easy way when flying @ -10celcius and below. Alsways have to be super cautious on everything compare to in summer, just put new props on it ( not even balancing them) and fly jellow free.

Cheers!

Derrick
13th December 2013, 06:35 PM
I like the looks of this frame, do you have any pictures of an assembled/flying frame? The 3D/CAD is nice but I am interested in seeing actual FPV ready pics. What kind of motors have you tested/do you recommend for this frame? All Up Weight (AUW)?

terabyte
13th December 2013, 06:40 PM
Really nice, and good promo vid too - enjoyed that.... especially the m2 printer as I have one too lol.
looks badass too!
What landing gear options will you have though - I had issues taking off from anything but short grass or hard surfaces with my QAV500 until fitting the gear to raise it up a bit.

Thanks bud! Your post about the M2 is what made us look into those. We have the design for the taller landing gear almost ready. Its going to be different from what you normally see on quads, lets just say that.

terabyte
13th December 2013, 06:43 PM
I like the looks of this frame, do you have any pictures of an assembled/flying frame? The 3D/CAD is nice but I am interested in seeing actual FPV ready pics. What kind of motors have you tested/do you recommend for this frame? All Up Weight (AUW)?

Sorry for not having more pretty pictures of it to show off (its been hectic trying to release this) but;
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2885/11325526026_347da292f3_b.jpg

Tiger 1100kv work nice with 8 or 9 inch props. SunnySky 1250kv with 8 inch props would be my goto recommended motor as that is what we are all flying now on the CineTank.

AUW was under 1400grams with a 4s 3300.

terabyte
13th December 2013, 06:47 PM
Looks like a really well put together frame ! Really like the video intro! Wish you guys good luck! Competition can only be good for us, customers or should I say ''addics'' lol

Quick question that comes in mind, how did you pick the dampeners that you have and how good would it be in cold climate? The reason I'm asking is that no matter which frame I pick none can '' deliver '' the easy way when flying @ -10celcius and below. Alsways have to be super cautious on everything compare to in summer, just put new props on it ( not even balancing them) and fly jellow free.

Cheers!

Unfortunately we cant replicate your weather but we flew with mostly beat up chipped and unbalanced props to simulate worse possible conditions, then we tried different isolators and amount of isolators until we got rid of all jello no matter what we did. If for some reason the included isolators dont work in your climate let us know and we will help you out with a different "recipe". The beauty of this is that its fully tunable by the end-user. We even made provisions for regular bobbins if you want to use those instead.

viper522
13th December 2013, 09:01 PM
Looks good nice work guys. Hope to see some reports from the field.

appelm
13th December 2013, 09:15 PM
Frame looks really great.. Congrats on the new venture.. Might have to try one of these!

Derrick
13th December 2013, 09:19 PM
Sorry for not having more pretty pictures of it to show off (its been hectic trying to release this) but;


Tiger 1100kv work nice with 8 or 9 inch props. SunnySky 1250kv with 8 inch props would be my goto recommended motor as that is what we are all flying now on the CineTank.

AUW was under 1400grams with a 4s 3300.

I think that Tiger is a little to proud of their product for my wallet... the SunnySky 1250s have peaked my interest though. What kind of flight times are you getting on the 3300mAh battery?

terabyte
13th December 2013, 10:04 PM
I think that Tiger is a little to proud of their product for my wallet... the SunnySky 1250s have peaked my interest though. What kind of flight times are you getting on the 3300mAh battery?

Ha ha yea Tiger certainly are proud. The SunnySky are an AWESOME bang for the buck and the quality is right up there with the best of them. How hard do you fly? I have broken the 10min barrier and the battery only took 2700mah back in, flying medium\hard 8min.

bllama
13th December 2013, 11:05 PM
I have flown both tiger and sunnysky and I don't really see the difference, yeah may be the tiger are a better quality and better looking but, honestly I cant notice and for the price of one tiger you get 2 sunnysky lol

Derrick
13th December 2013, 11:09 PM
Ha ha yea Tiger certainly are proud. The SunnySky are an AWESOME bang for the buck and the quality is right up there with the best of them. How hard do you fly? I have broken the 10min barrier and the battery only took 2700mah back in, flying medium\hard 8min.

That is enough for me... everything I look at says that the SunnySkys are only rated for 3s, I assume that they are holding up well on 4s?

bllama
13th December 2013, 11:14 PM
on the testing of the CineTank, I had 3 sets of sunnyskys 1250kv and one set of tigers 1100kv and I have not burned the 1250 yet and I fly very hard and only 4s, I crashed 2 sets hard and still going strong, I do like the sunnysky better because they have A LOT more power than the tigers.

bllama
13th December 2013, 11:16 PM
And yes they say the sunnysky are rated for 3s, but... for me they hold very good on 4s and I had no issues or problems.
one of the set I have has around 100+ flights still working.

Derrick
13th December 2013, 11:21 PM
Just to be clear you are referring to the SunnySky 2216 1250kV (as opposed to the SunnySky 2212 1250kV)?

bllama
13th December 2013, 11:23 PM
yes the X2216-8 KV:1250

terabyte
13th December 2013, 11:59 PM
Just to be clear you are referring to the SunnySky 2216 1250kV (as opposed to the SunnySky 2212 1250kV)?

We are getting them from; http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/motors/17/sunnysky-x2216-1250kv-brushless-motor.html

terabyte
14th December 2013, 02:09 AM
Some of the features that gives this quad its tank-like toughness is how we interface the inner-mount with the g10 chassis. As you can see in the picture below, the mount keys into the frame. And then you run 4 screws that sandwich the frame, the clamps, frame, and landing gear all together. There are 6 standoffs in the middle of the dirty section as well for good measure, for a total of 22 fastening points that go through the dirty section.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/11362408296_7cb4791516_b.jpg

That reminds me. We used 16mm tube so if you are in a pinch and you broke an arm you can go to the LHS and buy a tailboom for an Align T-rex 500 and make your own. Arm Replacement Template (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogh34inlf6xiquu/Arm%20Replacement%20Template.PDF)

Zeeflyboy
14th December 2013, 02:47 AM
Just FYI, t-rex 600 is 21.5mm... Not 16mm.

T-rex 500 is 16mm

terabyte
14th December 2013, 02:51 AM
Just FYI, t-rex 600 is 21.5mm... Not 16mm.

T-rex 500 is 16mm

Dude thank you so much!

Zeeflyboy
14th December 2013, 03:08 AM
You're welcome, I'll take a free cinetank as payment lol...

terabyte
14th December 2013, 04:09 PM
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/11371861454_1bab0622b9_c.jpg

First orders just went out. :D

Derrick
14th December 2013, 04:18 PM
lol... who ordered 3 frames?

satttheman
14th December 2013, 07:40 PM
lol... who ordered 3 frames?

Probably Multirotor Superstore or some store

Flying Monkey
14th December 2013, 08:14 PM
That's a sweet looking frame! Wasn't surprised to hear who was behind it either :)

Looks like there's stoppers there to prevent the clean section from seperating completely? Well thought out!

postaL
14th December 2013, 08:24 PM
Probably Multirotor Superstore or some store

:) :cool:

terabyte
14th December 2013, 08:41 PM
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5486/11375395244_4e2b2f909f_c.jpg

:D :D :D :D :D

terabyte
14th December 2013, 09:56 PM
That's a sweet looking frame! Wasn't surprised to hear who was behind it either :)

Looks like there's stoppers there to prevent the clean section from separating completely? Well thought out!
Dude that means a lot coming from you. You know I respect your work.
And you are correct there is a failsafe for the vibration isolators that dont interfere with normal movement.

crd
14th December 2013, 11:03 PM
This are the little things you see on a tested product that makes a difference MARKED RED....., my other brand quad didn't had this and one of the rubber thingies broke in mid air and it was a mess of broken blades, striped ESC wires, flying battery and broken dirty plates :( .

This little failsafe is excellent (I will be placing my order soon :) )
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6283/ryjt.jpg

bllama
14th December 2013, 11:42 PM
Thanks for the good feedback guys, keep them coming :)

superdr34
15th December 2013, 10:24 AM
What is the weight of the frame itself?
Thanks

terabyte
15th December 2013, 02:33 PM
With ALL the hardware and landing gear you are looking at around 515grams.

bllama
16th December 2013, 02:36 AM
That's a sweet looking frame! Wasn't surprised to hear who was behind it either :)

Looks like there's stoppers there to prevent the clean section from seperating completely? Well thought out!

Yes,

Those are stops so your vibrations isolators last longer on hard landings or in case of a crash the clean section and dirty section wont end up in different places taking some of your electronics with them lol

terabyte
17th December 2013, 12:42 AM
Sweet first international customer today.

Sinewavz
18th December 2013, 12:00 AM
Amazing work guys! May have to trade in the Qav...this looks so sexy!

terabyte
18th December 2013, 01:05 AM
Thanks for the kind words Sinewavz.

viper522
18th December 2013, 09:57 AM
Are the nylon parts dyed or actual black material? Just wondering, I got the idea to dye mine from terabyte's post way back.

terabyte
18th December 2013, 10:06 AM
Are the nylon parts dyed or actual black material? Just wondering, I got the idea to dye mine from terabyte's post way back.

I dye them myself :-D... A few thousand at a time.

terabyte
19th December 2013, 06:20 PM
Over the next week or so we will be working on a series of detailed build videos, if there is something in particular that you guys would like to see please post up and let us know. We hope you enjoy this introductory video.


https://vimeo.com/82312845

alexedit
20th December 2013, 12:26 PM
37237
37238

terabyte
21st December 2013, 12:03 AM
I finally had enough down time to weight the frame, 478.14 grams with hardware.

satttheman
21st December 2013, 01:08 AM
4hr into my build. A ways to go37284

satttheman
21st December 2013, 03:55 PM
37297
Finished I have two short hover videos. So far so good!

bllama
21st December 2013, 03:58 PM
Wow man, you been really are working hard on this, cant wait to see your videos

satttheman
21st December 2013, 04:02 PM
Yea it took me around 6hrs I'd guess. Videos are nothing really needed the gopro for balance so I figured I'd record. The video is clean! Prop and jello free! I have to tune the board or at least put it back to stock I had this naze in a tbs that I wasn't flying anymore.

terabyte
21st December 2013, 04:31 PM
Satttheman i should be able to get you some naze pid settings in an hour or so.

satttheman
21st December 2013, 04:52 PM
Satttheman i should be able to get you some naze pid settings in an hour or so.

Sweet! I'd like to try them! Thx in advance!

terabyte
21st December 2013, 04:54 PM
No problem bud. Im just finishing up some lunch.

satttheman
21st December 2013, 05:11 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaOHBR-n4RE

terabyte
21st December 2013, 05:39 PM
Here are what I have on my Naze32. I think they still need some tuning but if you post of some FPV video of you with settings I can probably give you an idea of what to fine-tune if needed.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/11485378256_3a745dfbf0_o.jpg

bllama
22nd December 2013, 10:47 AM
sweet!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaOHBR-n4RE

bobinaz
22nd December 2013, 11:43 AM
Hello, all

I just received my kit yesterday and am waiting for the motors to come in. Very impressive introduction for a well thought out and designed kit. I'm really looking forward to getting
mine in the air with the recommended Sunny Sky motors. I should mention that the supplier suggested by terabyte (Multirotor Superstore) appears to have the best prices and is one
of the few that even has them in stock.

I'll be controlling mine with my Ardupilot 2.6 with OSD and transmitting video on 1.3. Can't wait!

-bob

terabyte
22nd December 2013, 10:35 PM
You guys have been asking us for flight videos and we listened.


https://vimeo.com/82524163

terabyte
23rd December 2013, 12:27 PM
Thought you guys might enjoy this detailed picture.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11480582065_c1be150436_b.jpg

bobinaz
23rd December 2013, 12:47 PM
I went through a couple of iterations before I got this right...the pic will certainly help some of the guys. Now, the only question I would have is there a trick to getting
the vibration isolators mounted? I found this to be the only difficult task putting mine together, especially joining the plates. :)

-bob

saucisse
23rd December 2013, 12:57 PM
terabyte, would it be possible to get option of ordering it with slightly longer cf booms so we can fit 10'' props?

terabyte
23rd December 2013, 12:57 PM
I went through a couple of iterations before I got this right...the pic will certainly help some of the guys. Now, the only question I would have is there a trick to getting
the vibration isolators mounted? I found this to be the only difficult task putting mine together, especially joining the plates. :)

-bob

The best trick i have found is using a little section of welding wire or safety wire to put these together.
And then you use it like a button tool;

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/11517000645_e42c9ed22e_o.jpg

Moving forward we will be including a little section of wire for this purpose.

terabyte
23rd December 2013, 12:59 PM
terabyte, would it be possible to get option of ordering it with slightly longer cf booms so we can fit 10'' props?

Absolutely yes, our next batch of CF arms are including some longer tubes.

satttheman
23rd December 2013, 02:49 PM
Absolutely yes, our next batch of CF arms are including some longer tubes.

How much will the arms cost?

bllama
23rd December 2013, 02:55 PM
How much will the arms cost?

Take a look at the website, we have a full range of spare parts aviliable for the CineTank right now. :D

terabyte
23rd December 2013, 02:56 PM
How much will the arms cost?

Provided that our carbon supplier doesn't charge us too much more they will be priced at $12 each. Stay tuned because we will have promotional pricing on sets of 4.

Bajora
23rd December 2013, 03:31 PM
Looks Sweet! Trigger pulled on one.

satttheman
23rd December 2013, 03:34 PM
So the longer arms will be the same price as the regular arm?!? Cool

terabyte
23rd December 2013, 04:11 PM
So the longer arms will be the same price as the regular arm?!? Cool
Yep! :-D



Looks Sweet! Trigger pulled on one.
Thanks man! We'll get it out to you ASAP.

gforce9
23rd December 2013, 04:27 PM
I ordered one, also!

Efrain
23rd December 2013, 09:12 PM
I ordered one today...;)

bobinaz
23rd December 2013, 09:22 PM
Should've waited a week or so...

figgoatfpv
23rd December 2013, 09:58 PM
Congrats on a brilliant quad...Awesome and on the "to buy list"

terabyte
24th December 2013, 01:11 AM
We have been working like santa's elves trying to get your orders filled ASAP!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3777/11525848854_c14766d9b8_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/11525856245_a98a5c302c_b.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2838/11525975623_451f211aeb_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/11526026943_69f505e3ae_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/11526072715_4c22113695_b.jpg

terabyte
24th December 2013, 02:59 AM
In efforts of making it easier to get you in the air MRSS has put together a packaged frame kit with the recommended motors, escs, and props for the CineTank. Check it out at http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/diy-frame-kits/76/cinetank-mk1-diy-kit.html

sparkyincali
24th December 2013, 04:13 AM
Yeah I was talking to Postal the other day mentioning that I was thinking of switching my Disco fleet up.I mentioned I was thinking of the qav400 and he recommended the Cinetank which made me take another look.It looks like I will be putting one of these in the air soon.

satttheman
24th December 2013, 06:36 PM
Dang Postal is going off! That a sweet combo! All 3 of the combos that I seen were awesome! I may have to get friend to buy a cinetank combo! Great job Postal! I like the Spanky combo as well to bad I already have 2 of them!

On another note just went down the basement and took my Cinetank out of the case to tease a friend. I must say out of the probably 40+ fpv frames I've had its definitely the most beautiful fpv frame I've ever had. Not taking away from anyone because I cool with a few manuf. but this thing is gorgeous!!!

bllama
24th December 2013, 11:11 PM
Thank you, we really tried to make something cool, powerful and also bring a fresh beautiful look combined with the experience hours and hours of flying time before the release.


Dang Postal is going off! That a sweet combo! All 3 of the combos that I seen were awesome! I may have to get friend to buy a cinetank combo! Great job Postal! I like the Spanky combo as well to bad I already have 2 of them!

On another note just went down the basement and took my Cinetank out of the case to tease a friend. I must say out of the probably 40+ fpv frames I've had its definitely the most beautiful fpv frame I've ever had. Not taking away from anyone because I cool with a few manuf. but this thing is gorgeous!!!

terabyte
26th December 2013, 02:05 AM
Teaser ...

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2823/11556791446_493136179c_b.jpg

sparkyincali
27th December 2013, 02:47 AM
Anyone see what he is teasing with? I see leds but cant make anything else out.

gforce9
27th December 2013, 02:51 AM
It's a flight controller and the rest is unknown.LOL

Hans
27th December 2013, 03:53 AM
Looks like a WHAM! (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wham!) trashcan in the background?

Sinewavz
27th December 2013, 03:55 AM
Sparky-where in CA?

Sinewavz
27th December 2013, 03:58 AM
Well enough of the teaser! ;) here's the real thing!

Sine's Cinetank CT-MK1 http://forums.openpilot.org/index.php?/topic/36084-Sine%27s-Cinetank-CT-MK1

terabyte
27th December 2013, 12:54 PM
I love this picture!

http://flyingcinema.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/i/sine_s_cinetank.jpg

saucisse
27th December 2013, 12:55 PM
We need to login/sign up to be able to actually see the picture... you should post them here directly instead.

Bajora
29th December 2013, 12:06 PM
Recvd mine from Florida to the West Coast in record time. Good service. And check out the packaging and the way that they have everything segregated. Going with the SunnySkys. Just need a few more parts and I have all I need to get 'er done!
37749
37750
37751

terabyte
29th December 2013, 10:04 PM
Wow those are some nice pics. Thanks for sharing.


Recvd mine from Florida to the West Coast in record time. Good service. And check out the packaging and the way that they have everything segregated. Going with the SunnySkys. Just need a few more parts and I have all I need to get 'er done!
37749
37750
37751

sparkyincali
29th December 2013, 10:13 PM
Sparky-where in CA?

Santa Cruz

Sinewavz
29th December 2013, 10:20 PM
Cool, Down in SD here...

Alright guys! I moved my build log over here. Enjoy! ;)

Sinewavz
29th December 2013, 11:15 PM
Tis the holiday season and I have been busy this year with an amazing rate of 2 builds a month since early this year and have quite a fleet now & decided to retire a couple and keep it down to the top frames to keep in my personal collection and just test fly others to see if they can take their spot http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.png

SO...let the fun begin...

Honestly.... Flying Cinema's Cinetank (CT-MK1 (http://flyingcinema.com/cinetank.html)) caught my attention from the moment I saw it...beautiful "Honeycomb" design with strength of well...a Tank....sexy and strong make this a true competitor in the mulitorotr market. This was a great build and their were some points when I didn't know up from down since I have never had tubular arms. Always had the fear of one not lining up straight with the others perfectly and so on...but the guys at Flying Cinema talked me through a couple easy steps and I was back on track. Great support. Turns out I had nothing to fear...it was easy and I wanted to pass on the info and help others that will have this frame soon. Enjoy http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png !!

Parts list:

Frame: CineTank MK1 (http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/individual-frames/73/flyingcinema-cinetank-mk1.html)
FC: Openpilot Revolution (http://www.openpilot.org/products/openpilot-revolution-platform/) w Airbug Case
ESC: Afro 30A ESC (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39708__Afro_ESC_30Amp_Multi_rotor_Motor_Speed_Co ntroller_SimonK_Firmware_.html)
Motors: SunnySky 2216-1100kv
(http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/motors/65/sunnysky-x2216-1100kv-brushless-motor.html) Props: APC MR 8x4.5
(http://www.multirotorgear.com/c/4504586/1/apc-multirotor.html) FPV Cam: Sony 650 CCD Camera
(http://www.surveilzone.com/25X25mm-650tvl-0.001-lux-starlight-super-mini-fpv-camera-d-wdr-hs1149f) VTX: 800w 1.3Ghz (1258)
12v Regulator: (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=914)12V 2.5A UBEC (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18787__12V_2_5A_UBEC_2_5S_Lipoly_12_23v_.html)

37785 - Mail http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wub.png
37786 - Box Contents

37787 - Let the fun begin!

37788 - PDB mounted to dirty

37789 - ESC's zip tied down for soldering via holes provided in dirty (notice the tabs for the zip ties have a notch in them so you still have space for the zip ties and the dirty plate side walls - Check for fit before final installation of ESC's)

37790 - ESC power cables measured to length and marked

37791 - Strip and solder one at a time keeping all cables clear & repeat on other side

37792 - Competed and pulled out for cleaning and final prep

37793 - Re-installed ESC's and zip tied in pairs (check to make sure dirty sides fit at this time) // Pushed in the arm mounts (tabs in) into position in dirty // Measured Main Battery lead (see next pic) // Add any JST connectors for power for FPV gear too http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/happy.png

37794 - Measure main Battery lead to tail of dirty about 1inch passed this tab

37795 - Made lead and secured to frame with zip tie for power lead restraint
37796 - Close up
37797 - IMPORTANT : Put arm mounts and side plates on other dirty and screw JUST the 2 center standoffs (you will do the others soon) and insert all screws into arm mounts but leave them a little loose to insert arms (don't worry if the arm mount molds don't got all the way in the dirty...once you tighten all the arm mounts tight they will go into position firmly...just push them in as best as you can right now)

37798 - Dirty awaiting arms install

37800 - Sandwich anyone?

TO BE CONTINUED BELOW....

Sinewavz
29th December 2013, 11:35 PM
37830 - Motor mounts test fitted on arms, the holes in the arms and the "key" in the molds lined up perfectly (tabs out)

37829 - SunnySky 2216 - 1100kv's and 1250's have a long shaft so...

37828 - Motors prepped for Dremmel (Painters Tape)

37827 - Motors mounted to arm molds and plates prepped with nuts and bolts

37826 - Cover nuts so they don't fall out http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.png

37825 - Turn over, add locktite, and screw in and torque to 2 finger's strength

37824 - Run Motor cables through arms

37823 - Plug Motors to ESC's, plug servos into FC, and check for correct motor rotation

37822 - Slide arms into dirty molds

37821 - Close up from the bottom of dirty plate

37820 - Insert nuts into landing gears

37819 - Landing gear ready for install

37818 - place landing gears on dirty and screw arms on dirty tight first, then install the remaining dirty standoff screws - Remember I only tightened the 2 center ones before...now do them all and secure dirty

37817 - Dirty from the bottom done

37816 - Install Viberation dampener safety standoffs on all four corners with no washers - Install washers when clean plate is completely done at end

TO BE CONTINUED....

c5galaxy engineer
29th December 2013, 11:59 PM
subbed

Sinewavz
30th December 2013, 12:05 AM
37899 - Safetys done

37904 - Install standoffs and dampeners to bottom clean plate

37903 - Add VTX / UHF RX / 12V Power regulator / Wiring everything up...

37902 - Gear in place

37901 - View from the other side

37900 - Top plate mounted and time to fly http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png

TO BE CONTINUED...

Sinewavz
30th December 2013, 12:06 AM
Completed build:

37914379153791637917379183791937920379213792237923

I have to say that this frame has the strongest dirty section i have ever held in my hands....truely a TANK....this is going to be fun and weighing in at 1030g with full electronics (no GoPro or battery)!! Maiden flight and videos coming soon...so stay "tuned" as I will be updating this post soon!! http://forums.openpilot.org/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.png

Maiden:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtaPvT5aBOw

skrider
30th December 2013, 01:36 PM
Seriously? That was your maiden?! Holy crap, that was a nice flight!

terabyte
30th December 2013, 01:39 PM
Seriously? That was your maiden?! Holy crap, that was a nice flight!

What are you waiting for? Just place your order already :P

skrider
30th December 2013, 01:42 PM
Damn you, Jose! Have I mentioned how many builds I have waiting in the wings to be done?!

:D

terabyte
30th December 2013, 02:24 PM
Damn you, Jose! Have I mentioned how many builds I have waiting in the wings to be done?!

:D

RCG is a great place to get rid of those builds you really dont want to build anyway... Im just sayin :P

LOL Im sorry man, i just had to.

Sinewavz
30th December 2013, 02:31 PM
I'm swapping out frames and this was an obvious choice for those that want a butter smooth, solid flight w jello free video..... If your one of those people then drop what your doing, cause I'm about to ruin...lol!

It also happens to be the most beautiful frame in my collection...thanks To the guys at Flying Cinema.

bllama
30th December 2013, 02:33 PM
Thanks Sinewavz

terabyte
30th December 2013, 02:37 PM
I cant say thank you enough for all the kind words Sinewavz. Im really glad you are enjoying it.

sparkyincali
30th December 2013, 11:46 PM
I just picked mine up tonight and time to start building.I was looking to change frame systems and this one should fit the bill perfectly.

sparkyincali
31st December 2013, 02:37 AM
Anyone ran one on 9" with Tiger 900kv? That worked good on my discovery which was a pig so figure it should also work good on this.

terabyte
31st December 2013, 02:42 AM
Anyone ran one on 9" with Tiger 900kv? That worked good on my discovery which was a pig so figure it should also work good on this.

It will work just fine, it wont be a beast but it should still make you happy.

postaL
31st December 2013, 02:45 AM
It will work just fine, it wont be a beast but it should still make you happy.

Until the new 1250s come out at least. ;)

terabyte
31st December 2013, 02:46 AM
Touche'

gforce9
3rd January 2014, 03:16 AM
Still waiting on my PDB...:D Another thing I have noticed from cleaning the carbon tubes for fibers is an extra tube. Flying Cinema is so generous!

bllama
3rd January 2014, 12:15 PM
In the Mail


Still waiting on my PDB...:D Another thing I have noticed from cleaning the carbon tubes for fibers is an extra tube. Flying Cinema is so generous!

saucisse
3rd January 2014, 04:54 PM
You guys have an ETA on the longer tubes to make this puppy fly with 10'' props? My finger is aking over the ''buy'' button lol

saucisse
5th January 2014, 09:46 PM
anyone?? ^

bllama
5th January 2014, 09:51 PM
Sorry for the late reply, it's been a long weekend. I been working hard on getting the custom tubes to support up to 12" props, I should be able to get you and specific date some time this week.
Also if you are really craving to get one of this babies pm me and I might be able to get you the arms your want.




You guys have an ETA on the longer tubes to make this puppy fly with 10'' props? My finger is aking over the ''buy'' button lol

satttheman
5th January 2014, 10:02 PM
Sorry for the late reply, it's been a long weekend. I been working hard on getting the costume tubes to support up to 12" props, I should be able to get you and specific date some time this week.
Also if you are really craving to get one of this babies pm me and I might be able to get you the arms your want.

12"! Now your really talking my language I have some brand new MN3508 380kv and some 6s 2700 waiting

bllama
5th January 2014, 10:09 PM
Its a work in progress, but yeah, I want us to be able to take up to 12" props :)


12"! Now your really talking my language I have some brand new MN3508 380kv and some 6s 2700 waiting

saucisse
6th January 2014, 01:52 PM
No worries !

You've got a PM ;)

Sorry for the late reply, it's been a long weekend. I been working hard on getting the costume tubes to support up to 12" props, I should be able to get you and specific date some time this week.
Also if you are really craving to get one of this babies pm me and I might be able to get you the arms your want.

Oliver Miami
12th January 2014, 12:34 PM
I had a chance to fly with Flying Cinema members and CineTank owner yesterday and it was a lot of fun. I was the black sheep with my Discovery but I'm going to get one of these CineTank for sure. These guys know what they are doing and I'm going to give a try.

38796

38797

38798

38799

38800

38801

38802

38803

terabyte
12th January 2014, 01:00 PM
Oliver it was great hanging out with you and the rest of the crew yesterday. Was a damn fun day for FPV.
Huge thanks for the pictures man, they are awesome!

Sinewavz
12th January 2014, 01:01 PM
Army of Tanks!! ;)

Channel 1
12th January 2014, 01:39 PM
I had a chance to fly with Flying Cinema members and CineTank owner yesterday and it was a lot of fun. I was the black sheep with my Discovery but I'm going to get one of these CineTank for sure. These guys know what they are doing and I'm going to give a try.

Where do you guys fly down here? Would love to stop by and grab some video sometime if that can be worked out.

Wayne

gforce9
12th January 2014, 10:52 PM
It's finally up in the air and flying!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmSHfkL2C_M&feature=youtu.be

alexedit
14th January 2014, 11:02 PM
Where do you guys fly down here? Would love to stop by and grab some video sometime if that can be worked out.

Wayne

Wayne we gotta make that happen. Actually, I think we should have a mini South Florida FPV Meet.

I personally fly anywhere (if I have my batts charged) Parking lots and open fields.
There is a cool big open area in Davie and another one in Coral Springs. We should all get together.

Oliver: It was very nice to hang out with you this past weekend, you should come up here more often.

alexedit
14th January 2014, 11:04 PM
The funnest part was watching Terabyte do cartwheels on the grass, (literally) then seeing his copter like if nothing had ever happened.... It's a freakin' tank!

terabyte
14th January 2014, 11:11 PM
The funnest part was watching Terabyte do cartwheels on the grass, (literally) then seeing his copter like if nothing had ever happened.... It's a freakin' tank!

Dude you saw it happen? That was the funnest flight ever!

Oliver Miami
14th January 2014, 11:32 PM
Oliver: It was very nice to hang out with you this past weekend, you should come up here more often.

Thanks Alex, it was very nice to meet you guys. I'm not alone. I feel less crazy now ! A lost and later found F330 that almost end up on the highway, a Cinetank crash (pilot error) and some radio interferences, was a good afternoon ! ;)

By the way, I just made this video from my last trip. I love my little Disco but I'm tired of jello, can't wait to try the CineTank !

https://vimeo.com/84095607

STI-REX
15th January 2014, 05:43 AM
I should of got this instead of the xu gong .......................OH well live and learn

Maybe next month

bllama
15th January 2014, 09:15 AM
Very cool video Oliver!

Oliver Miami
15th January 2014, 07:11 PM
Thanks. Can't wait to make jello-free video with the CineTank.

Flying Monkey
15th January 2014, 07:43 PM
Jello videos make me dizzy...

Jello Shots... also make me dizzy. But I like this better :)

criccio
15th January 2014, 07:49 PM
Thanks. Can't wait to make jello-free video with the CineTank.

I too fell into the TBS hoopla but at the end of the day, the Disco is just not well suited to video. Those DJI arm's are just crap for transmitting vibrations even with high-quality motors and props. Mine will be up for sale soon. I just feel lucky they never dragged me into the disaster that is DJI flight controllers.. I want to FLY not hover around! The $25 Naze32 made my Disco come alive!

It's going on whatever I decide to build next.. either this or go with a mini like the Spanky.

bobinaz
15th January 2014, 07:51 PM
I finally figured out a battery size I have that would fit and used a 2600 4S that just squeezes in quite nicely.

This was a first for my second APM 2.6 and other than the basic firmware download it's stock; no additional tuning or setup. Props are 8" GemFan carbon fiber, balanced on an old Top Flite magnetic balancer. Motors are the recommended SunnySky 2215-8/1250 as well as the 30 amp ESCs, both from Multirotor Superstore, who provided excellent service.

I attached my old GoPro Hero under the mount with rubber bands and squeezed my Mobius on the top of the mount under the same rubberbands. I must mention now that with whatever frame I was using in the past I could never get 100% of the Jello out of either, especially the Mobius that I tried everything with to get it clear on a multi rotor.

Bottom line - the "tank" is a rocket, responds instantly, and when slowed down locks in just fine. Neither of my videos taken at the same time show any tiny bit of Jello. I haven't posted these yet, but will do so within the next day or so.

I ran down the battery to 14% (oops) but got a little over 8 minutes of really pushing the Cinetank around to check it out.

Thanks for a great product!!!

-bob

terabyte
16th January 2014, 01:15 AM
Bob thank you so much for your feed back. It really pleases me to see customers enjoying our product as much as we do. I figured out why i wasnt having any problems with the larger batteries. I was using the wrong spacers. We will order larger spacers with our next materials order and stock them in the store. Im really very very sorry about the mixup.

Would you mind sending me your APM settings to jose@flyingcinema.com?

Thanks bud,
Jose

bllama
16th January 2014, 01:38 AM
I have used 30mm, 35mm and 40mm for different size batteries, on some of the prototypes of the tank I was using aluminum 40mm standoffs to fit the battery under the FC and I was using a 4000mha 4s nanotech.



I finally figured out a battery size I have that would fit and used a 2600 4S that just squeezes in quite nicely.

This was a first for my second APM 2.6 and other than the basic firmware download it's stock; no additional tuning or setup. Props are 8" GemFan carbon fiber, balanced on an old Top Flite magnetic balancer. Motors are the recommended SunnySky 2215-8/1250 as well as the 30 amp ESCs, both from Multirotor Superstore, who provided excellent service.

I attached my old GoPro Hero under the mount with rubber bands and squeezed my Mobius on the top of the mount under the same rubberbands. I must mention now that with whatever frame I was using in the past I could never get 100% of the Jello out of either, especially the Mobius that I tried everything with to get it clear on a multi rotor.

Bottom line - the "tank" is a rocket, responds instantly, and when slowed down locks in just fine. Neither of my videos taken at the same time show any tiny bit of Jello. I haven't posted these yet, but will do so within the next day or so.

I ran down the battery to 14% (oops) but got a little over 8 minutes of really pushing the Cinetank around to check it out.

Thanks for a great product!!!

-bob

bobinaz
16th January 2014, 11:08 AM
HI, Jose

Thanks for the info regarding the spacers...I thought I was going crazy!

I still have to perform an auto-tune to dial in the APM, so right now the APM has the out-of-the
box settings. As soon as I have it dialed in I'll be sure to send you the info, both for the APM and
my radio (Jeti DS-16).

Cheers,

-bob

terabyte
16th January 2014, 11:25 AM
Hey Bob,

Thanks for being so understanding.

satttheman
16th January 2014, 05:21 PM
Any updates on the longer arms?

bobinaz
16th January 2014, 05:51 PM
Hey Bob,

Thanks for being so understanding.

My pleasure, you guys are the best!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdjNv-6y5is (personal comments on YouTube, please go there to read them)

xtrmtrk
21st January 2014, 12:47 AM
Just read this thread and placed an order. Now I just have to find those Sunnysky motors in stock somewhere....

Oliver Miami
21st January 2014, 01:07 AM
Just bought the last 4 on amazon for my CineTank build but you should be able to find some on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=SunnySky%20X2216%201100kv&clk_rvr_id=575978674882

silverdulcet
21st January 2014, 01:15 AM
Just read this thread and placed an order. Now I just have to find those Sunnysky motors in stock somewhere....

1100kv (http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-x2216-1100kv.html) or 1250kv (http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-x2216-1250kv.html) are in stock at BuddyRC

xtrmtrk
21st January 2014, 01:23 AM
Sorry, but after a couple bad experiences, I try to avoid buying on eBay, especially from China. As for the BuddyRc's motors - the 1100kvs look interesting, but the 1250s they have don't have the bolt-on prop adapters which I MUCH prefer. Would there be much difference between the 1100s and the recommended 1250s? And how about the long shafts - are those a problem with the motor mounts on the Mk.I? I know, I know, I can cut them.....

Oliver Miami
21st January 2014, 01:29 AM
Yeah i understand for ebay, I took the 1100kv for my build because I'm after endurance more than extreme flight performance. Just a personal preference. I will let you know as soon as I fly my CineTank.

terabyte
21st January 2014, 01:30 AM
The 1100 are nicer if you want to do smooth video. They also leave the option open to run 9 inch props where with the 1250 the only 9 inch props we would recommend is the Graupner. I we designed the mount for the motors to have the shafts cut off.

silverdulcet
21st January 2014, 01:43 AM
Sorry, but after a couple bad experiences, I try to avoid buying on eBay, especially from China. As for the BuddyRc's motors - the 1100kvs look interesting, but the 1250s they have don't have the bolt-on prop adapters which I MUCH prefer. Would there be much difference between the 1100s and the recommended 1250s? And how about the long shafts - are those a problem with the motor mounts on the Mk.I? I know, I know, I can cut them.....

All the Sunnysky II motors from BuddyRC come with the bolt on prop adapter. If you want to confirm you can email/call them and ask. You can even order the bolt-on prop adapters seperately or as spares if you like. They have normal and pusher bolt on prop adapters:
SunnySky X22 II Motor Bolt-on Prop Adapter (http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-x22-ii-bolt-on-prop-adapter.html)
SunnySky X22 II Motor Bolt-on Push Prop Adapter (http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-x22-ii-bolt-on-push-prop-adapter.html)

I'm unsure of whether they have the short or long shaft. I have a set of SunnySky X2208 KV1500 II that show a long shaft in the picture yet mine have the short shaft.

xtrmtrk
21st January 2014, 10:40 AM
1100's ordered from BuddyRC! I like the idea of being able to spin 9" props.

I can't wait to get this in the air, I'll post my experiences with these motors as as soon as I do.

terabyte
21st January 2014, 10:59 AM
1100's ordered from BuddyRC! I like the idea of being able to spin 9" props.

I can't wait to get this in the air, I'll post my experiences with these motors as as soon as I do.

I just read your signature. I think you are the perfect customer for the CineTank :D I look forward to hearing your experience.

saucisse
21st January 2014, 11:11 AM
Cannot wait to put mine in the air too !! Hopefully its not going to be -35c like this morning when I'll be ready :rolleyes:

Derrick
22nd January 2014, 12:28 AM
Looking at the assembly manual as well as the pictures here I was unable to determine how the flight camera is being mounted. Does the kit come with the vertical plates? Anyone have any pictures showing more detail on how they are mounting their CCD cameras?

terabyte
22nd January 2014, 02:10 AM
Cannot wait to put mine in the air too !! Hopefully its not going to be -35c like this morning when I'll be ready :rolleyes:
Dude why didnt you tell me you were Englishman's bud? :D He is good people man...


Looking at the assembly manual as well as the pictures here I was unable to determine how the flight camera is being mounted. Does the kit come with the vertical plates? Anyone have any pictures showing more detail on how they are mounting their CCD cameras?

The camera pod is going in the store soon for $15; http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3719/12054116906_1c2b52208d_b.jpg
We use 3M VHB tape to hold either that pod or a regular camera in a case to the bottom of the gopro plate.

saucisse
22nd January 2014, 08:51 AM
Dude why didnt you tell me you were Englishman's bud? :D He is good people man...


Not sure I'm following you on this one?? :o

Derrick
22nd January 2014, 10:51 AM
The camera pod is going in the store soon for $15; http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3719/12054116906_1c2b52208d_b.jpg
We use 3M VHB tape to hold either that pod or a regular camera in a case to the bottom of the gopro plate.

This is not the end of the world, but I would have assumed that this frame would have provisions for attaching a flight camera included in the kit.

I just looked up the tape you referenced... 3M VHB tape is really expensive! Glad you can get the smaller rolls.

terabyte
22nd January 2014, 10:55 AM
This is not the end of the world, but I would have assumed that this frame would have provisions for attaching a flight camera included in the kit.

Hey Derrick sorry about the mixup. There are just too many types of cameras and how to mount them is often a personal choice. Have we done anything to mislead you to believe it was included in the kit?

Not sure if you got to see this;

https://vimeo.com/82312845

What do you guys say, are there 2-3 types of camera that everyone is using these days?

saucisse
22nd January 2014, 11:03 AM
Even when supplied I always end up mounting my cam elsewhere than the recommended location lol

terabyte
22nd January 2014, 11:05 AM
Dude VHB is AWESOME! I use it to mount everything on my quads now. You can find it at Home Depot or the local auto parts. They use it on cars to hold on trim, body kits, wings...

saucisse
22nd January 2014, 11:13 AM
How hard is it to remove let say that you want to switch gear from a quad to another?

Derrick
22nd January 2014, 11:21 AM
Just to be clear, you have not done anything to mislead me.

I have watched the video, reviewed all 15 pages of the thread, studied all of the posted pictures of this frame, and read the product description on your website in entirety. Hence the reason for asking my above question... this detail was unclear to me.

There are only a couple pictures that show a CCD camera mounted with enough detail to determine how it is attached, one with a metal bracket the other with a "shroud" looking enclosure. Upon review of the PLATE, GOPRO EXTENSION (FN11/ PN70003) there are no identifiable mounting holes for a CCD camera either. Understandably there are many options available and you can't design a singular solution that will suit them all. However this may be the proverbial "chink" in the armor of this frame (pun intended).

Perhaps you can start collecting and documenting how others are attaching their cameras? I figure once you get a few different ones documented it will be enough for others to use as a go-by for their specific equipment. As a side note, when I build a frame I make every attempt possible to not use the following items unless absolutely necessary... Hot Glue, Zip-ties, Double Sided Tape. I feel that these items are indication that something is an afterthought or "scabbed on". Please don't take the previous sentence the wrong way, it is just my opinion/philosophy.

I struggled on whether to PM the above to you or post it... I decided to post it because I believe that your response will help others build this frame the best that it can be.

PS mine will arrive later this week from MultiRotorSuperstore... this is why I am dissecting and diving in to the details of the frame/design/mounting features.

terabyte
22nd January 2014, 11:42 AM
Hey Derrick,

I really appreciate your honest feedback. We tried to think of everything but many minds are better than a couple, we are taking notes of what can be done better for the MK. II :D

I completely understand your arguments about hot glue, zip ties, and double sided tape however I believe that even they have a place when used properly. A dab of hotglue on a vtx and camera connector, zip ties to clean up wires, and honestly i dont know of anything better to mount a vtx, tx, and lipo alarm than VHB tape, sometimes with a ziptie as insurance.

I think adding a few holes to mount the metal bracket that comes with some cameras would help alleviate the issue at hand and its a simple fix. However my problem with previous frames is that if i used screws to mount the camera then it interfered with the gopro sitting flat, hence why we went the direction we did.

We are very open to suggestions and we want the CineTank to have your input. Please always feel free to let us know how we can make it better. And to everyone reading this, please feel free to make your suggestions in public in this thread as well.

I look forward to your build please post pics and let us know if you have any questions.

/Jose


Just to be clear, you have not done anything to mislead me.

I have watched the video, reviewed all 15 pages of the thread, studied all of the posted pictures of this frame, and read the product description on your website in entirety. Hence the reason for asking my above question... this detail was unclear to me.

There are only a couple pictures that show a CCD camera mounted with enough detail to determine how it is attached, one with a metal bracket the other with a "shroud" looking enclosure. Upon review of the PLATE, GOPRO EXTENSION (FN11/ PN70003) there are no identifiable mounting holes for a CCD camera either. Understandably there are many options available and you can't design a singular solution that will suit them all. However this may be the proverbial "chink" in the armor of this frame (pun intended).

Perhaps you can start collecting and documenting how others are attaching their cameras? I figure once you get a few different ones documented it will be enough for others to use as a go-by for their specific equipment. As a side note, when I build a frame I make every attempt possible to not use the following items unless absolutely necessary... Hot Glue, Zip-ties, Double Sided Tape. I feel that these items are indication that something is an afterthought or "scabbed on". Please don't take the previous sentence the wrong way, it is just my opinion/philosophy.

I struggled on whether to PM the above to you or post it... I decided to post it because I believe that your response will help others build this frame the best that it can be.

PS mine will arrive later this week from MultiRotorSuperstore... this is why I am dissecting and diving in to the details of the frame/design/mounting features.

Derrick
22nd January 2014, 12:19 PM
I have a great idea in mind for mounting... it is however specific to GoPro and PZ0420 (can easily be adapted to other equipment). I will get with you once I have the frame in hand and can CAD something up.

terabyte
22nd January 2014, 01:06 PM
Very cool. Thank you Derrick.

Tr3TopFlyer
24th January 2014, 09:36 AM
Jose do you have any plans for a gimbal for this frame?

bllama
24th January 2014, 11:31 AM
Hey Chyoung, yes we are releasing and gimbal soon compatible with this frame.

David



Jose do you have any plans for a gimbal for this frame?

Tr3TopFlyer
24th January 2014, 05:16 PM
Hey Chyoung, yes we are releasing and gimbal soon compatible with this frame.

David

Great. Hopefully the existing frames will be upgrade-able to the gimbal version.

xtrmtrk
24th January 2014, 06:13 PM
My frame and motors arrived today. Anxious to get this built and in the air. Packaging was great.

bllama
24th January 2014, 06:22 PM
Yes,

Existing frames already have provisions for the gimbal :)




Great. Hopefully the existing frames will be upgrade-able to the gimbal version.

bllama
24th January 2014, 06:24 PM
Very glad you liked it so far, you will really enjoy the frame when you get it in the air, I fly it almost every day now



My frame and motors arrived today. Anxious to get this built and in the air. Packaging was great.

Derrick
24th January 2014, 06:26 PM
My frame and motors arrived today. Anxious to get this built and in the air. Packaging was great.

+1 my frame arrived, still waiting on electronics. This is one of the best packaged quad frames that I have seen.

I believe that it was mentioned before, figured I would bring it up again... can you make a short video/tutorial about how to do the vibration isolator dance? just for fun I tried to install them... getting them into one plate is easy, attaching the second plate proved to be much more difficult. It was getting late so I called it a night... just had a thought that it would probably be easier to push them through both plates at the same time, then carefully separating the plates to get the notches in the right spot.

EDIT: Also had another question, I plan on putting 10 inch props on mine, could you point me to a source of carbon tube so that I can make new arms? I know I can go to a hobby shop and get a TRex500 boom, but I thought it might be a little cheaper to buy a length of carbon rod. Do you know if the props will be in view/is there enough motion in the GoPro plate to eliminate them?

bllama
24th January 2014, 06:42 PM
Thanks for the comments on the packing and the frame.

We will post a video on how install the pink rubber balls this weekend for sure, its actually super easy if you use the screw drivers provided with the kit.

First, install all of them to the dirty section by hand.
Second, genteelly push them with the screw driver one by one from the sides to the holes on the clean section, when you have most of the ball in, insert the screw diver from the bottom of the dirty section in the middle of the ball to align then pushing the rubber from the inside out and make the flanges grab the plates.
Third, after you are done with all of them install the washers to the locking standoffs (12mm) and you are done.

Let me know if you got it. We will make a video anyways; that will really help

David



+1 my frame arrived, still waiting on electronics. This is one of the best packaged quad frames that I have seen.

I believe that it was mentioned before, figured I would bring it up again... can you make a short video/tutorial about how to do the vibration isolator dance? just for fun I tried to install them... getting them into one plate is easy, attaching the second plate proved to be much more difficult. It was getting late so I called it a night... just had a thought that it would probably be easier to push them through both plates at the same time, then carefully separating the plates to get the notches in the right spot.

EDIT: Also had another question, I plan on putting 10 inch props on mine, could you point me to a source of carbon tube so that I can make new arms? I know I can go to a hobby shop and get a TRex500 boom, but I thought it might be a little cheaper to buy a length of carbon rod.

xtrmtrk
24th January 2014, 08:04 PM
37827 - Motors mounted to arm molds and plates prepped with nuts and bolts


I have a question for you @Sinewavz - How did you mount your motors to the molded motor mounts? The lock collar on the motors we have is wider than the width of the indentation in the mounts.

Here's what I mean. The collar is about 9mm wide:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2686527/CollarSize.jpg

But the opening in the motor mount is only about 7mm wide:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2686527/MotorMount.jpg

Additionally, the height of the collar is about 6.5mm, but the depth of the axle hole on the mount is only about 6mm.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2686527/CollarHeight.jpg

I think I have 3 choices here:

1) Cut the motor shaft and ream out the motor mount axle hole to fit the collar. Cut down into the mount just enough to hold the collar. I'm not sure how to cut a flat hole, all of my drill bits are tapered.

2) Cut the motor shaft and ream out the motor mount axle hole to fit the collar. Add washers between the motor and the motor mount to raise it enough for the shaft and collar to fit in the hole in the mount.

3) Do not cut the motor shaft, and just drill a 9.0 or 9.5mm hole all the way through the axle hole in the mount. Let the motor shaft protrude into the arm.

Option #1 seems to be the intent of the build and keeps the structural integrity of the mount but I'm not sure I can do it. #2 is similar to #1 but reduces the strength of the connection between the motor and the mount. Option #3 is a bit cleaner, but by removing the key in the bottom of the mount which locks into the hole in the arm, some of the structural rigidity is lost.

I'm curious to know what you did Sinewavx. And if the crew from FlyingCinema is here, I'd love to hear their opinion as well.

As a suggestion to the guys designing the motor mounts, it'd be nice if the solution here was a bit more obvious.

Thanks.

terabyte
24th January 2014, 08:08 PM
The mounts were designed to not be used with the collars or the shaft. The collar comes off with a hex key and then you can dremel the shaft after the c-clip. Make sure you leave about 1mm of the shaft after the c-clip for it to have something holding it.

xtrmtrk
24th January 2014, 08:12 PM
The mounts were designed to not be used with the collars or the shaft. The collar comes off with a hex key and then you can dremel the shaft after the c-clip. Make sure you leave about 1mm of the shaft after the c-clip for it to have something holding it.

That works too!

I didn't know those collars were optional.

Sinewavz
24th January 2014, 08:30 PM
Exactly. I just removed my collars and cut the shaft with a dremmel. Very easy and fast...and if you have spare motors..may want to cut them ahead of time.

terabyte
24th January 2014, 08:40 PM
Glad to help. Look at how Tiger motors come;
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/image/cache/data/sku-12227-3-600x600.jpg


That works too!

I didn't know those collars were optional.

Tr3TopFlyer
24th January 2014, 11:45 PM
I built this custom tri frame made by some friends of mine. No problem installing isolation balls and there were many. Not at all concerned about installing them on the Mk1.

3984139842

Sinewavz
24th January 2014, 11:55 PM
Nice tri Chyoung. Very clean look ;) I have always thought about trying out a tri. PM me a link of your thread (if you have one).

scotth72
25th January 2014, 10:14 AM
Got mine yesterday, it's now built. Excellent packaging. One dirty plate was missing a hole for a stand off near the center of the plate. Side plates for the dirty section had to be sanded to get them in the slots. There are no provisions for mounting a power distro or the flight controller. I don't use bullet connectors, so I ran the motor wires outside of the booms.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ygNnn4yOFjM/UuPGT8OtjoI/AAAAAAAAJSU/lHkj8Ebh6Mg/w800/Cinetank.jpg

Tr3TopFlyer
25th January 2014, 10:22 AM
Nice tri Chyoung. Very clean look ;) I have always thought about trying out a tri. PM me a link of your thread (if you have one).

Thanks Sine. PM on it's way.

Tr3TopFlyer
25th January 2014, 10:28 AM
Looks good congratulations. When you say provisions for the FC, other than mounting holes what would you have wanted to see?

bllama
25th January 2014, 10:44 AM
Got mine yesterday, it's now built. Excellent packaging. One dirty plate was missing a hole for a stand off near the center of the plate. Side plates for the dirty section had to be sanded to get them in the slots. There are no provisions for mounting a power distro or the flight controller. I don't use bullet connectors, so I ran the motor wires outside of the booms.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ygNnn4yOFjM/UuPGT8OtjoI/AAAAAAAAJSU/lHkj8Ebh6Mg/w800/Cinetank.jpg


It looks very good, we have one more plate that came out without the hole and we are QCing every single part. Did you receive the 4mm standoffs and plastic nuts for the flight controller board?

The side plates are made to fit snug on the slots and the one of the sides of the hex standoffs have to be parallel with the edge of the dirty plates so the side plates rest flat against it and when you tighten the screws the standoffs won't spin.

Derrick
25th January 2014, 11:02 AM
Did you receive the 4mm standoffs and plastic nuts for the flight controller board?


These were were not in my kit either, however I was not expecting them to be because they are not listed in the assembly manual.

scotth72
25th January 2014, 11:16 AM
No stand offs for fc in my kit. Stole some out of my ads400.
I had stand offs for dirty plate aligned correctly. The slots were just uber tight.

bllama
25th January 2014, 11:40 AM
We will send both the FC standoffs on Monday, Please PM me your name and address

Tr3TopFlyer
25th January 2014, 07:21 PM
I always like to put my FC in a case so standoffs aren't necessary (unless I'm using bobbins) with a clean section.

scotth72
25th January 2014, 08:08 PM
I found an easy way to install the vibration dampers. Install them normally in the dirty section. Then, to install in clean section, use a piece of wire (I used a single strand of 22g servo wire). Loop wire around top edge of damper, the piece that will interface the frame. Then bring both ends of wire through hole in frame. When you pull the ends of the wire, it will pull the damper up into the hole. The wire will then pop out the top of the hole and your damper is neatly installed. I will try to get some video later.

Tr3TopFlyer
25th January 2014, 10:57 PM
I found an easy way to install the vibration dampers. Install them normally in the dirty section. Then, to install in clean section, use a piece of wire (I used a single strand of 22g servo wire). Loop wire around top edge of damper, the piece that will interface the frame. Then bring both ends of wire through hole in frame. When you pull the ends of the wire, it will pull the damper up into the hole. The wire will then pop out the top of the hole and your damper is neatly installed. I will try to get some video later.

Nice!

Derrick
26th January 2014, 11:59 AM
Alright, I have my first build input to make the next version a little better.

Remove material in the location shown to allow easy installation of the standoffs in the dirty plate when the silicon dampers are already installed. There was only an issue with 2 of 6 screws, was able to deflect the bobbins far enough to work, but increasing the cut out here means that it can be done without excessive force on the frame plates.
39938

bllama
26th January 2014, 02:06 PM
I always like to put my FC in a case so standoffs aren't necessary (unless I'm using bobbins) with a clean section.

I do too, I don't like to have the FC exposed, what FC do you use, we will have cases for cc3d, naze32 and revo on our website very soon (like this week)

terabyte
26th January 2014, 02:17 PM
Hey Derrick,

Im a little lost bud. We build the dirty section first and then add the bobbins and then add the bottom clean plate. Is this the order you assembled it in?

Would this material removal be so that you could access top middle screws of the dirty section through the top?

I really wish I had more time so i could make the build video...

Oh one more note, if you have not completed the dirty section the easiest way to put it together is to put all the spacers and tap the mounts into the dirty section. Then just put the screws in the middle spacers that you referenced in your post. Then the entire dirty section becomes like a spring loaded double ended clothes pin and you can snap the arms into the mounts.

Please keep the suggestions coming bud, overall what are your thoughts of the kit?


Alright, I have my first build input to make the next version a little better.

Remove material in the location shown to allow easy installation of the standoffs in the dirty plate when the silicon dampers are already installed. There was only an issue with 2 of 6 screws, was able to deflect the bobbins far enough to work, but increasing the cut out here means that it can be done without excessive force on the frame plates.
39938

scotth72
26th January 2014, 02:20 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKSCIiJW4uA&list=UUiuRT4EeHiWA_p5wqxI9PiQ&feature=share
Maiden flight shot at 2.7k. Quad flies fantastic. Tiger 1100kvs. Apc 8x4.5 mr props.

Oliver Miami
26th January 2014, 02:21 PM
I really wish I had more time so i could make the build video...

I'm going to work on it as soon as I receive all my parts. ;)

Derrick
26th January 2014, 02:51 PM
Hey Derrick,

Im a little lost bud. We build the dirty section first and then add the bobbins and then add the bottom clean plate. Is this the order you assembled it in?

Would this material removal be so that you could access top middle screws of the dirty section through the top?

I really wish I had more time so i could make the build video...

Oh one more note, if you have not completed the dirty section the easiest way to put it together is to put all the spacers and tap the mounts into the dirty section. Then just put the screws in the middle spacers that you referenced in your post. Then the entire dirty section becomes like a spring loaded double ended clothes pin and you can snap the arms into the mounts.

Please keep the suggestions coming bud, overall what are your thoughts of the kit?

I suppose that I am doing things a little different... Here is what I have done so far in the order that I have done it.
1. Assemble Top dirty plate to bottom clean plate using the vibration dampers
2. Install the clean section spacers
3. Install the dirty section spacers (this is where I found the above interference on the center 2 spacers... it can be avoided by changing the order of operations, but I already had the vibe isolators installed and didn't want to remove them)

The reason hat I am taking the above approach is to allow me to build up my wiring harness and route it.

terabyte
26th January 2014, 03:02 PM
Ok that makes sense. Adding this to the list of changes to be implemented in our next rev.


I suppose that I am doing things a little different... Here is what I have done so far in the order that I have done it.
1. Assemble Top dirty plate to bottom clean plate using the vibration dampers
2. Install the clean section spacers
3. Install the dirty section spacers (this is where I found the above interference on the center 2 spacers... it can be avoided by changing the order of operations, but I already had the vibe isolators installed and didn't want to remove them)

The reason hat I am taking the above approach is to allow me to build up my wiring harness and route it.

terabyte
26th January 2014, 03:04 PM
Hey Scott, linky is broken.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK
Maiden flight shot at 2.7k. Quad flies fantastic. Tiger 1100kvs. Apc 8x4.5 mr props.

Sinewavz
26th January 2014, 03:05 PM
Check post #93 - I even did it different but I found it easier to wire up my clean plates withy eh FPV gear first, then just connect to dirty with the JST. Made it very easy...actually my son had fun putting in the squishy bobbins. Lol...his little fingers helped. I didn't even thing of the using a wire to help pull them through but that's what I'm doing from now on. Even changing an arm on this baby is easy. I didnt even have to separate the dirty from clean....just loosen up the 4 screws in the arm mount and spread it ehoigh to pull the arm right out. Took 5 mins to change an arm. ;)

Tr3TopFlyer
27th January 2014, 12:10 AM
Dude why didnt you tell me you were Englishman's bud? :D He is good people man...



The camera pod is going in the store soon for $15; http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3719/12054116906_1c2b52208d_b.jpg
We use 3M VHB tape to hold either that pod or a regular camera in a case to the bottom of the gopro plate.

This 3d printed case from RMRC is a possibility too. It's what I will use on my cinetank. It can be mounted upside down.

http://www.readymaderc.com/store/bmz_cache/b/ba4d6f0bda84fbc8ec4d72ebd2303015.image.600x550.JPG

Tr3TopFlyer
27th January 2014, 12:21 AM
I do too, I don't like to have the FC exposed, what FC do you use, we will have cases for cc3d, naze32 and revo on our website very soon (like this week)

I'm using a Revo on this frame but I also use CC3Ds sometimes.

bllama
27th January 2014, 12:24 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKSCIiJW4uA&list=UUiuRT4EeHiWA_p5wqxI9PiQ&feature=share
Maiden flight shot at 2.7k. Quad flies fantastic. Tiger 1100kvs. Apc 8x4.5 mr props.

wow man, that is very cool!!

btw, your standoff are packed and will be on the way tomorrow

Thanks for sharing

terabyte
27th January 2014, 12:25 AM
Wow man, thanks for sharing. That was a beautiful flight.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKSCIiJW4uA&list=UUiuRT4EeHiWA_p5wqxI9PiQ&feature=share
Maiden flight shot at 2.7k. Quad flies fantastic. Tiger 1100kvs. Apc 8x4.5 mr props.

bobinaz
27th January 2014, 12:49 PM
Very nice, Scott. I immediately recognized the area, one of the most beautiful on Earth.

-bob

HansAuf
27th January 2014, 06:42 PM
I have to say, fantastic design from you guys. It's likely one of the smoothest builds that you will find. The holes and mounting locations are intuitively placed. The packaging is probably the best that I have ever seen with several nice touches like the belt type packaging that you can just lay out, cut an "X" in the middle of and pull as you need them while assembling. I am really looking forward to grabbing one of the gimbals that will be available shortly, if I understand correctly.

I have had this thing apart and back together so many times this weekend. Each change out was a snap. I flew it with OpenPilot CC3D, NAZA V1, and even put a KK2.0 on just to see how that went. It flew fantastic with all 3 FC's on the stock arms, 8" props, and on the suggested motors. But I also grabbed a set of V3508-16 700kv motors to try out on this frame. I wanted to squeeze a little more flight time out of it. I cut a set of CF tubes to 240mm and set the holes with a drill press, jig. and stepper bit. Mounted the motors up and tried it with 10" and 11" props. I don't want to post any flight times because I've not mounted all the FPV gear yet and it would be unrealistic. All flights so far were just LOS and a GoPro2/GoPro3 mounted. But I have to say, I love it on the 240mm arms with both prop sets. I may cut them down to 220mm though. The props that I used with this arm length were APC 11's and RCT/CF 10's. I will likely get a set of APC 10's, because I am not in love with CF props on smaller multirotors. I'll hopefully get my FPV gear all mounted up and have it ready for my day off and grab some video.

Note, the photo below is just one of the iterations I tried. That setup is a NAZA V1 with the 24mm arms and the CF 10" props.


40083

Derrick
27th January 2014, 07:12 PM
Do you have a good source for CF booms for replacement arms?

Tr3TopFlyer
27th January 2014, 07:48 PM
I have to say, fantastic design from you guys. It's likely one of the smoothest builds that you will find. The holes and mounting locations are intuitively placed. The packaging is probably the best that I have ever seen with several nice touches like the belt type packaging that you can just lay out, cut an "X" in the middle of and pull as you need them while assembling. I am really looking forward to grabbing one of the gimbals that will be available shortly, if I understand correctly.

I have had this thing apart and back together so many times this weekend. Each change out was a snap. I flew it with OpenPilot CC3D, NAZA V1, and even put a KK2.0 on just to see how that went. It flew fantastic with all 3 FC's on the stock arms, 8" props, and on the suggested motors. But I also grabbed a set of V3508-16 700kv motors to try out on this frame. I wanted to squeeze a little more flight time out of it. I cut a set of CF tubes to 24mm and set the holes with a drill press, jig. and stepper bit. Mounted the motors up and tried it with 10" and 11" props. I don't want to post any flight times because I've not mounted all the FPV gear yet and it would be unrealistic. All flights so far were just LOS and a GoPro2/GoPro3 mounted. But I have to say, I love it on the 24mm arms with both prop sets. I may cut them down to 22mm though. The props that I used with this arm length were APC 11's and RCT/CF 10's. I will likely get a set of APC 10's, because I am not in love with CF props on smaller multirotors. I'll hopefully get my FPV gear all mounted up and have it ready for my day off and grab some video.

Note, the photo below is just one of the iterations I tried. That setup is a NAZA V1 with the 24mm arms and the CF 10" props.


40083

Just trying to follow you...do you mean 240mm? Nice clean build BTW.

HansAuf
27th January 2014, 07:57 PM
Do you have a good source for CF booms for replacement arms?

I just got these from AGL Hobbies (Rusty) because he is quick and located near me. But check out goodwinds.com


Just trying to follow you...do you mean 240mm? Nice clean build BTW.

TY. I' have pulled the wires in and out so often I am going to strip it down to start one more time since I think that I am set on the hardware combo now. Ah crap. Sorry, did that by voice recognition. Yes, 240mm is the actual measurement.

Tr3TopFlyer
27th January 2014, 08:24 PM
TY. I' have pulled the wires in and out so often I am going to strip it down to start one more time since I think that I am set on the hardware combo now.

So Hans what will you end up with for your setup? Myself I want to have the power I need with 8" props. I'll experiment with three different props (HQs, APCs and Gemfan Carbon fill) Probably end up with the HQs. If you want a rocket then 9" are better but I'm just learning to fly FPV and something more controllable is my goal. Nice thing with this frame is that when I can handle it I can move to the 9". 8" does produce a smaller disk and less affected by wind. Lots of options and I can't wait to get this built, although because of weather I won't be able to fly for weeks.

Tr3TopFlyer
27th January 2014, 08:51 PM
Fantastic news gents...my Cinetank came today. Let the build begin :)

bllama
27th January 2014, 08:59 PM
I just got these from AGL Hobbies (Rusty) because he is quick and located near me. But check out goodwinds.com



TY. I' have pulled the wires in and out so often I am going to strip it down to start one more time since I think that I am set on the hardware combo now. Ah crap. Sorry, did that by voice recognition. Yes, 240mm is the actual measurement.

That tanks looks awesome, let us know if you have any suggestions for future changes or releases.

For the long arms CineTanks we will have 212mm long tubes for sale in out website. We been playing with them for some time and we are trying to get them in stock as soon as possible.

HansAuf
27th January 2014, 09:25 PM
So Hans what will you end up with for your setup? Myself I want to have the power I need with 8" props. I'll experiment with three different props (HQs, APCs and Gemfan Carbon fill) Probably end up with the HQs. If you want a rocket then 9" are better but I'm just learning to fly FPV and something more controllable is my goal. Nice thing with this frame is that when I can handle it I can move to the 9". 8" does produce a smaller disk and less affected by wind. Lots of options and I can't wait to get this built, although because of weather I won't be able to fly for weeks.

It believe that I'll end up with the Sunnysky V3508-16 700kv motors. T-Motor 30A ESC's, Abusemark PDB, NAZA V1 (GPS), RMRC 400mW 1.2/3 VTX w/IBC Cloverleaf, Cyclops Breeze OSD Pro, PZ0420 flight camera, & GensAce 4S3300/3000mah packs. I swap back and forth between GoPro2 and GoPro3. And sticking with the ImmersionRC 8ch UHF RX since I feel like this will make a great distance flyer.

I'm a huge T-Motor fan, but the price on the SunnySky's was way too good to pass up. I'm glad that I got them now though. They ended up being fantastic. I used the T-Motor 30A ESC's for no reason other than I had them lying around. I was asked to review them a while back. I normally use the Turnigy plush's re-flashed and I have been really happy with the ZTW Spider ESC's so far.


That tanks looks awesome, let us know if you have any suggestions for future changes or releases.

For the long arms CineTanks we will have 212mm long tubes for sale in out website. We been playing with them for some time and we are trying to get them in stock as soon as possible.

Thanks. Actually to be totally honest with you that is one of my only suggestions. And I am hard as hell to please. ;) 212mm is a good length for this frame. I think the majority of people will be ecstatic to have a choice. I am definitely going to cut mine down to 220mm. The only other suggestion that I have right now is to make the motor mounts able to accommodate the 19x25mm offset motors as well. Either that or maybe a choice of either/or. Any idea on when you'll have the gimble ready to go? As good as this is so far, I am interested to get the gimble if it's done as well as the Cinetank Mk.I.

xtrmtrk
28th January 2014, 05:51 PM
I'm waiting on some FPV parts to finish my build, but so far I really like this quad. The dirty layer is SO freaking strong. I'm anxious to finish it up and get it in the air.

Two thoughts though: 1) I wish you sold a real power distribution board that fit properly. I had 3 types of PDBs at home, but they were all too wide and i had to Dremel one down. I never like my results when I solder to a copper pad like you include. Related to that, a version where power distribution was built into one of the bottom dirty plates would be great - I love that on the QAV series. 2) Do a hex version! I've been looking at hexes for a while, but they just didn't seem durable enough. Using your mounts, you could do a killer hex. Add in your bobbins with safety system and you'd have a winner. If I had a CNC and could cut G10 I'd do it myself.

skrider
28th January 2014, 06:02 PM
Use this one. http://abusemark.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=41

It's the same size as an OpenPilot or Naze board and will fit the holes in the bottom of the dirty section.

xtrmtrk
28th January 2014, 06:19 PM
Yeah, I saw that one, but didn't want to wait for the shipping from Japan. It'd be great if Flying Cinema sold them!

terabyte
28th January 2014, 06:22 PM
I'm waiting on some FPV parts to finish my build, but so far I really like this quad. The dirty layer is SO freaking strong. I'm anxious to finish it up and get it in the air.

Two thoughts though: 1) I wish you sold a real power distribution board that fit properly. I had 3 types of PDBs at home, but they were all too wide and i had to Dremel one down. I never like my results when I solder to a copper pad like you include. Related to that, a version where power distribution was built into one of the bottom dirty plates would be great - I love that on the QAV series. 2) Do a hex version! I've been looking at hexes for a while, but they just didn't seem durable enough. Using your mounts, you could do a killer hex. Add in your bobbins with safety system and you'd have a winner. If I had a CNC and could cut G10 I'd do it myself.


With soldering to bare copper you need to tin it a LOT. Get a nice layer on the copper and then add the wires 1 at a time. I would love a pdb in the actually G10 but i would have to outsource that part. Its something we plan to do in the future.

The bigger birds are coming and yep we plan to reuse these mounts in many of our designs. But for now we are focusing on the gimbal release.

scotth72
28th January 2014, 08:26 PM
Yeah, I saw that one, but didn't want to wait for the shipping from Japan. It'd be great if Flying Cinema sold them!

Multirotor superstore has them.

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 10:07 AM
I'm not quite finished with my build yet so no pictures but I have some thoughts on the frame.

Pros:

* This is the most rigid frame I've ever seen. I love the HT FPV frames but it always bothered me that there was this torsional twist in them. If the frame is twisting in flight that must affect the FC's control. There is NO twist slop in this frame.

* I really like the "caged" dirty section (which is also why there no torsional slop). There is good depth in this area to mount electronics although it could be wider (see comment in cons).

* This is the first frame I've used with tubular arms and I love being able to route motor leads inside the arms. Makes for a very clean build. I always use the mesh cable management on my other builds but it wasn't necessary here.

* While I haven't tested how jello free the clean section is I like the ball dampener idea. Bobbins are easier to install but prone to breaking. I'm going to be using a mobius, which is prone to jello so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The suspension of the clean section seems a little "hard" to me but maybe it's tuned perfectly for this frame.

* Well thought out access holes are provided so you can tighten screws that would normally be hidden. Good thinking Flying Cinema.

* I used the included PDB and it actually worked very well. When I saw it I thought "well I won't be using that" and decided I would just build a squid. But then I thought I would give it a try and it made connecting the ESCs and battery leads and 12v regulator very easy. I just put a piece of heat shrink over it and it fits nicely in the cage. A tip for those of you not used to soldering to copper clad...use a pencil eraser to clean the copper before soldering. It takes of any oxidation that would make it hard for the solder to adhere.

* The proof is in the flying and I haven't yet so I'm reserving comments on that.

Cons:

* Some parts are a very tight fit and that might be by design but it is a bit of a struggle to press the arm mounts into the dirty plates. The sides of the cage are a very tight fit and while I didn't want to make them too loose by sanding them a great deal, I did have to bevel the edges just so much to get them started. I'm sure some of the strength of the frame comes from the tight fit of these parts but maybe just a little relief would be appropriate.

* I don't like the nylon standoffs. I know they save weight but I would much rather have aluminum, especially in the dirty section. Aluminum standoffs would allow you to help pull the two plates together better and I believe would be much stronger. If I ever need to take the dirty section apart again (and I hope I don't) I will order some alum standoffs from McMaster Carr and replace the nylons. It's probably not as much of an issue on the clean section but why not? It's not going to add that much weight.

* I would like to see a better solution for strapping down the battery. There is just no where to get a velcro strap around the battery and the only slot I see for a strap is in the back (doesn't go around the battery but just prevents it from coming out the back end). I'm not sure how I'm going to do this yet but I don't want my battery bouncing around even if it can't fall out. Other frames do this better.

* This frame needs real landing gear. The skids are not a solution if flying in fields where you must take off in long grass and weeds. There isn't always a flat hard surface on which to land and take off. I'm going to try to adapt something that is meant for another frame. If I find something that works well I will share it.

* The cage section could be a tad wider. My 30a ESCs that I got from MRSS just barely fit side by side and in fact wouldn't lie perfectly flat against the plate. Just not quite enough room. This is not a big deal however.

* Finally and I know this is probably on the road map, build instructions or a good quality video. There are some tricks to holding things together when building the dirty section that I had to figure out from trial and error and just generally fighting with it that might frustrate some. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I could see this being very challenging for some. A video that shows the proper order of assembly would be nice.

Overall this is a great frame and my congrats to Flying Cinema. I'm sure the next generations will be amazing. Weather here is horrible so I'm not sure when I will be able to post videos but I will post some pictures when I get it completed.

Derrick
29th January 2014, 10:45 AM
I'm not quite finished with my build yet so no pictures but I have some thoughts on the frame.



Very nice write up, I pretty much concur with all that you have here aside for the aluminum stand-offs. It is this line of thinking that quickly turns a 1.4kg quad into a 1.6kg pig. A friend and I have been doing some testing on various quads and we have determined that all quadcopters (I think other multiples of motors too, but unconfirmed as there is no data yet) require about 75 watts/lb (or 165 watts/kg) to hover. The take away here is the heavier the quad is the more power is required... thus reducing your flight times. So the difference between 1.4kg and 1.6kg is an additional 33watts. If you assume a 4s battery nominal voltage that is an additional 2.2 amps required to maintain a hover (33watts/14.8V = 2.2amps). If you are flying for 5 minutes that is an additional 183 mAh consumed.

I place the order for my electronics last night, with any luck they will arrive before the weekend so that I can make some progress on the build. I opted to go with SunnySky 2216 800kV motors and 10" propellers. This will mean that I need to cut new carbon fiber tubes for the arms, but will ultimately give me a little better flight time and better lifting capability when I do install a brushless gimbal later on.

saucisse
29th January 2014, 10:58 AM
:cool:


40199

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 11:35 AM
Very nice write up, I pretty much concur with all that you have here aside for the aluminum stand-offs. It is this line of thinking that quickly turns a 1.4kg quad into a 1.6kg pig. A friend and I have been doing some testing on various quads and we have determined that all quadcopters (I think other multiples of motors too, but unconfirmed as there is no data yet) require about 75 watts/lb (or 165 watts/kg) to hover. The take away here is the heavier the quad is the more power is required... thus reducing your flight times. So the difference between 1.4kg and 1.6kg is an additional 33watts. If you assume a 4s battery nominal voltage that is an additional 2.2 amps required to maintain a hover (33watts/14.8V = 2.2amps). If you are flying for 5 minutes that is an additional 183 mAh consumed.

I place the order for my electronics last night, with any luck they will arrive before the weekend so that I can make some progress on the build. I opted to go with SunnySky 2216 800kV motors and 10" propellers. This will mean that I need to cut new carbon fiber tubes for the arms, but will ultimately give me a little better flight time and better lifting capability when I do install a brushless gimbal later on.

That's great information you guys are compiling. I would like to hear more. I weighed the 3cm nylon standoff, of which 10 are used. They weigh .7g each for a total weight of 7g. I don't have any aluminum 3cm standoffs but I had some 1/4" diameter 1.25" standoffs. So just slightly longer. They each weight 2.3g so if you used 10 the total would be 23g. So 23g as opposed to 7g is a difference of 15g. That's nothing on a frame like this. It wouldn't change your flight time by more than a few seconds if at all. The advantage is tremendous in strength though. If you added the extra weight of the six standoffs in the dirty section, lets estimate another 7g or so, you're only talking about somewhere around 22g extra weight for all aluminum standoffs. If you're really concerned about that weight you could even use 3/16" diameter aluminum (like are used on hoverthings frames) and the difference would be even less. Any difference that makes no difference is no difference ;)

Derrick
29th January 2014, 11:46 AM
That's great information you guys are compiling. I would like to hear more. I weighed the 3cm nylon standoff, of which 10 are used. They weigh .7g each for a total weight of 7g. I don't have any aluminum 3cm standoffs but I had some 1/4" diameter 1.25" standoffs. So just slightly longer. They each weight 2.3g so if you used 10 the total would be 23g. So 23g as opposed to 7g is a difference of 15g. That's nothing on a frame like this. It wouldn't change your flight time by more than a few seconds if at all. The advantage is tremendous in strength though. If you added the extra weight of the six standoffs in the dirty section, lets estimate another 7g or so, you're only talking about somewhere around 22g extra weight for all aluminum standoffs. If you're really concerned about that weight you could even use 3/16" diameter aluminum (like are used on hoverthings frames) and the difference would be even less. Any difference that makes no difference is no difference ;)

Your logic is sound if this is the only thing that you are changing... however if you make 5 "no difference changes" you now have a significant difference... ;)

Also... the strength does not come from the standoffs. The strength comes from the distance of the plates from the neutral bending axis. The standoffs merely set that distance.

bobinaz
29th January 2014, 12:02 PM
Hi, Chyoung

Nice writeup but I'll comment on a couple of the Cons you mention:

If you check this video you'll see a comparison of Mobius and GoPro video. It's a bit jerky but there's absolutely no jello in either, so you can put that worry aside.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdjNv-6y5is There are comments on YouTube so you may wish to view it there.

I also purchased the 30A ESCs from MRSS and just put them upright on edge where they tilt in slightly. This allows more cooling air to get to them and they fit perfectly like this. There are many other similar ESCs that will fit as you wished to mount them.

Personally, I like the lack of legs - in my mind the more that can be removed the better.

Re. Nylon vs Aluminum standoffs - Yes, you have to be careful not to strip then while screwing the plates together, but I like the idea that they do reduce some weight, be it just a little. Most important to me, in the event of
a crash, they'll most likely pull apart or break rather than ripping out chunks of frame where they're fastened.

Cheers, and good luck with your frame...you'll love it!

-bob

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 12:21 PM
Your logic is sound if this is the only thing that you are changing... however if you make 5 "no difference changes" you now have a significant difference... ;)

Also... the strength does not come from the standoffs. The strength comes from the distance of the plates from the neutral bending axis. The standoffs merely set that distance.

Well it will be interesting to see if anyone breaks a standoff in a crash. We haven't heard of the crashes yet but they'll be coming and the weaknesses will show themselves. It's a great frame and we are all going to have a blast flying it and sharing our experiences. I just configured my Revo and did a hover test. Time to set up TxPID for tuning it. I might have solved the battery strap problem. I glued two battery straps together (well pieces of one) to make a very long strap. I'm basically going around the battery length wise and through the slots in the back. Seems to work. If this is the design a long strap should be included IMO. Cheers to my fellow Tank flyers

BloomingtonFPV
29th January 2014, 12:45 PM
:cool:


40199

lucky bastard. We want a full report!

terabyte
29th January 2014, 12:51 PM
Well it will be interesting to see if anyone breaks a standoff in a crash. We haven't heard of the crashes yet but they'll be coming and the weaknesses will show themselves. It's a great frame and we are all going to have a blast flying it and sharing our experiences. I just configured my Revo and did a hover test. Time to set up TxPID for tuning it. I might have solved the battery strap problem. I glued two battery straps together (well pieces of one) to make a very long strap. I'm basically going around the battery length wise and through the slots in the back. Seems to work. If this is the design a long strap should be included IMO. Cheers to my fellow Tank flyers

http://flyingcinema.com/media/cinetank_revo_pid.jpg

terabyte
29th January 2014, 01:11 PM
Please excuse the short reply. Im at the dayjob. Responses in blue...


Pros:

* This is the most rigid frame I've ever seen. I love the HT FPV frames but it always bothered me that there was this torsional twist in them. If the frame is twisting in flight that must affect the FC's control. There is NO twist slop in this frame.
Thanks bud, that is what Im most proud of.
* I really like the "caged" dirty section (which is also why there no torsional slop). There is good depth in this area to mount electronics although it could be wider (see comment in cons).
Im writing this down for the Mk.II
* This is the first frame I've used with tubular arms and I love being able to route motor leads inside the arms. Makes for a very clean build. I always use the mesh cable management on my other builds but it wasn't necessary here.
:)
* While I haven't tested how jello free the clean section is I like the ball dampener idea. Bobbins are easier to install but prone to breaking. I'm going to be using a mobius, which is prone to jello so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The suspension of the clean section seems a little "hard" to me but maybe it's tuned perfectly for this frame.
You will be very pleased, I promise you.
* Well thought out access holes are provided so you can tighten screws that would normally be hidden. Good thinking Flying Cinema.
That was all David, the idea to access some more screws were also noted for the Mk.II
* I used the included PDB and it actually worked very well. When I saw it I thought "well I won't be using that" and decided I would just build a squid. But then I thought I would give it a try and it made connecting the ESCs and battery leads and 12v regulator very easy. I just put a piece of heat shrink over it and it fits nicely in the cage. A tip for those of you not used to soldering to copper clad...use a pencil eraser to clean the copper before soldering. It takes of any oxidation that would make it hard for the solder to adhere.
Thanks for the tip, thats awesome.
* The proof is in the flying and I haven't yet so I'm reserving comments on that.

Cons:

* Some parts are a very tight fit and that might be by design but it is a bit of a struggle to press the arm mounts into the dirty plates. The sides of the cage are a very tight fit and while I didn't want to make them too loose by sanding them a great deal, I did have to bevel the edges just so much to get them started. I'm sure some of the strength of the frame comes from the tight fit of these parts but maybe just a little relief would be appropriate.
This is a hard one to answer because it is a tradeoff either way. We wanted to make a Tank that wasn't any heavier than the competition, we crash a LOT. Our thinking was that it would be better to have a quad that was more tedious to build but that survived crashes better than anything else on the market. But this isnt a quad for us anymore, what do you as a customer rather?
* I don't like the nylon standoffs. I know they save weight but I would much rather have aluminum, especially in the dirty section. Aluminum standoffs would allow you to help pull the two plates together better and I believe would be much stronger. If I ever need to take the dirty section apart again (and I hope I don't) I will order some alum standoffs from McMaster Carr and replace the nylons. It's probably not as much of an issue on the clean section but why not? It's not going to add that much weight.
Aluminum was considered but nylon was chosen because the strength of the dirty section comes from the 16*35mm screws that clamp everything together, the fact that we do clamp everything together, the walls that create a tortion box and to prevent anything that could possibly short out any components in the dirty section.
* I would like to see a better solution for strapping down the battery. There is just no where to get a velcro strap around the battery and the only slot I see for a strap is in the back (doesn't go around the battery but just prevents it from coming out the back end). I'm not sure how I'm going to do this yet but I don't want my battery bouncing around even if it can't fall out. Other frames do this better.
If you put spacers in front of the batter (there are holes there intended for that purpose) it will protect the FC from being hammered by the battery and then the slot in the back will lock the battery in tightly. Also you can adjust the side standoffs to better clamp the battery from the sides.
* This frame needs real landing gear. The skids are not a solution if flying in fields where you must take off in long grass and weeds. There isn't always a flat hard surface on which to land and take off. I'm going to try to adapt something that is meant for another frame. If I find something that works well I will share it.
We will have optional taller landing gear coming out soon.
* The cage section could be a tad wider. My 30a ESCs that I got from MRSS just barely fit side by side and in fact wouldn't lie perfectly flat against the plate. Just not quite enough room. This is not a big deal however.
Noted.
* Finally and I know this is probably on the road map, build instructions or a good quality video. There are some tricks to holding things together when building the dirty section that I had to figure out from trial and error and just generally fighting with it that might frustrate some. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I could see this being very challenging for some. A video that shows the proper order of assembly would be nice.
Stay tuned, this is in fact on the roadmap.
Overall this is a great frame and my congrats to Flying Cinema. I'm sure the next generations will be amazing. Weather here is horrible so I'm not sure when I will be able to post videos but I will post some pictures when I get it completed.[/QUOTE]
We REALLY appreciate the feedback.

Sinewavz
29th January 2014, 02:35 PM
I had a bad crash a week ago!! Doing at least 45mph and just dropped out of the sky thanks to Dragonlink...

The tank came down hard and cartwheeled at least 30 feet. I did the walk of shame to discover that NOTHING was broken...not even a prop. Two of my friends saw this and were amazed. One of them bought one that day! ;)

Sinewavz
29th January 2014, 02:36 PM
No video of course cause the GoPro didn't save the file :(

terabyte
29th January 2014, 03:10 PM
No video of course cause the GoPro didn't save the file :(

Im still mad at you for that... :P

bllama
29th January 2014, 03:13 PM
I have at least 10 to12 cinetank crash videos lol I'll post some eventually but they are too raw for now

Sinewavz
29th January 2014, 03:17 PM
Im still mad at you for that... :P

I'm still mad at my GoPro. I have put it in the corner for a week now to let it think about how bad it has performed. :p

HansAuf
29th January 2014, 04:07 PM
Now that you mention it...

"The cage section could be a tad wider. My 30a ESCs that I got from MRSS just barely fit side by side and in fact wouldn't lie perfectly flat against the plate. Just not quite enough room. This is not a big deal however."

I actually agree with this one. I remember it being just ever so slightly a tight fit. Relocating the slots for the honeycomb uprights slightly outward would be a bonus.

xtrmtrk
29th January 2014, 04:39 PM
Regarding nylon vs. aluminum standoffs - I think the big problem here is the trade-off between the tight fit of the sections and how easy it is to strip the nylon standoffs. I couldn't get the sidewalls into the top and bottom sections by hand, so I tried to use the screws in the stand-offs to close the sandwich - big mistake! I ended up stripping 2 standoffs. Luckily you included 2 extra standoffs in the kit!

I think you should either a) make the fit a wee-bit easier, b) use aluminum stand-offs along the sidewalls, or c) recommend that people close the box using a C-Clamp (what I ended up doing, but was super worried about cracking the plates or the tabs on the walls).

BTW, I haven't been able to get the top plate on my dirty section completely flat - it just won't go down all the way on all of the sidewall tabs - there's a varying width gap between the top of the wall and the bottom of the top plate. It's tight at the screw-down points and a gap in-between. This doesn't seem to impact the strength, but kind of bothers me.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2686527/GapLarge.jpg

scotth72
29th January 2014, 05:01 PM
You currently need to sand the side plates for them to fit. Do the insides, so the sanding doesn't show. I still had to tap them together with a plastic mallet before tightening the stand offs.

xtrmtrk
29th January 2014, 05:39 PM
Until I need to replace something in the dirty section, I'll leave mine as is, putting that all together took me a couple hours. If there's a build manual/video coming together it should be noted in there that you should bevel the side plate tabs a bit.

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 06:22 PM
http://flyingcinema.com/media/cinetank_revo_pid.jpg

Hey thanks Tera. I loaded them and they fly pretty well. Different from mine but I'm going to try them and see how work. I typically use symmetrical settings and then adjust my mix...roll 50%, pitch 70% but I'm not sure how well that works.

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 06:29 PM
I had a bad crash a week ago!! Doing at least 45mph and just dropped out of the sky thanks to Dragonlink...

The tank came down hard and cartwheeled at least 30 feet. I did the walk of shame to discover that NOTHING was broken...not even a prop. Two of my friends saw this and were amazed. One of them bought one that day! ;)

that's freakin amazing. Good to hear because I'm probably going to crash this a lot. I'm a terrible pilot. Good builder but terrible pilot.

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 06:30 PM
I have at least 10 to12 cinetank crash videos lol I'll post some eventually but they are too raw for now

How can a crash video be too raw? :)

Sinewavz
29th January 2014, 06:40 PM
Here is mine when I changed back to 2.4....going back to UHF ASAP.

Zero damage to frame...just GOPRO fell out...lol


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0kM16dFwJQ

terabyte
29th January 2014, 10:18 PM
Guys we are looking into why the side plates are difficult hard to get in, that was not intended. We will check the fit of them moving forward until we pinpoint the issue.

terabyte
29th January 2014, 10:20 PM
Hey thanks Tera. I loaded them and they fly pretty well. Different from mine but I'm going to try them and see how work. I typically use symmetrical settings and then adjust my mix...roll 50%, pitch 70% but I'm not sure how well that works.

Glad to help bud. Those settings are what sinewavz flies with 1100s so it might be slightly different, props can also affect it. Please let me know where you end up.

saucisse
29th January 2014, 11:10 PM
Well it just came in this afternoon, quite impressed with the packaging, really like the hardware/screws bag, all nice and clean, not all in the same bag mixed up or in multiple bags. Just did a quick unboxing video in both French and English so if you like it you can put a link on your website.

I'll post it here once it's online.

Cheers!

Tr3TopFlyer
29th January 2014, 11:12 PM
Glad to help bud. Those settings are what sinewavz flies with 1100s so it might be slightly different, props can also affect it. Please let me know where you end up.

I think yaw is a little high but once the weather breaks and I can do some flying I know for sure. BTW have you guys played with feed forward?

terabyte
29th January 2014, 11:19 PM
I think yaw is a little high but once the weather breaks and I can do some flying I know for sure. BTW have you guys played with feed forward?

From when I used to play with CC3D my findings were that it wasnt worth bothering if you had SimonK, I fly Naza or Naze32 these days so my OpenPilot knowledge may be outdated.

saucisse
29th January 2014, 11:47 PM
Here it is, unboxing video in both French Canadian and English.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkoPb3J-X7s&feature=youtu.be

bllama
30th January 2014, 12:36 AM
Thanks :D


Here it is, unboxing video in both French Canadian and English.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkoPb3J-X7s&feature=youtu.be

terabyte
30th January 2014, 01:45 PM
Alright guys from the land down under, I am really happy to announce our first international dealer, Multirotor Gear out of Melbourne, Australia.

Pete is an awesome guy to work with and has motors and ESCs that complement the CineTank perfectly in stock. Please check out; http://www.multirotorgear.com/p/8772815/cinetank-mk1-fpv-quad.html

xtrmtrk
30th January 2014, 01:47 PM
Glad to hear you've got an Aussie store - and a good one! MultiRotorGear does a really top-rate, great job! (Hi Pete! I'm back in the States now.)

terabyte
30th January 2014, 02:07 PM
Glad to hear you've got an Aussie store - and a good one! MultiRotorGear does a really top-rate, great job! (Hi Pete! I'm back in the States now.)

Pete has been a pleasure to deal with and his reputation is amazing. Im really happy about this relationship.

Kyodai
30th January 2014, 02:07 PM
Puts you closer to that secret multi-rotor ninja flight academy they must have down there :)

terabyte
30th January 2014, 02:09 PM
Puts you closer to that secret multi-rotor ninja flight academy they must have down there :)

LOL!!! Exactly... now must plan a trip...

Rikef16
30th January 2014, 03:01 PM
Hi everyone!
My cinetank was sent yesterday and I'm really excited! Can't wait to fly it!
I'm about to buy the electronics and want to ask what are the max dimensions of the battery compartment!
Thanks!

terabyte
30th January 2014, 03:33 PM
Hi everyone!
My cinetank was sent yesterday and I'm really excited! Can't wait to fly it!
I'm about to buy the electronics and want to ask what are the max dimensions of the battery compartment!
Thanks!

Before I answer that, are you planning on getting the gimbal later?

Rikef16
30th January 2014, 03:39 PM
Probably yes.

shpoinks
30th January 2014, 03:53 PM
Glad to hear you've got an Aussie store - and a good one! MultiRotorGear does a really top-rate, great job! (Hi Pete! I'm back in the States now.)

Hi Bruce! Thanks for the kind words. I've been reading your comments on this frame with interest.

Scott and I are very excited to be on board with Terabyte and crew at Flying Cinema.

Now I'm off to recruit some Tank flying ninjas... :)

Pete

terabyte
30th January 2014, 03:54 PM
Then go with ; http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_216&products_id=1994

You could use taller standoffs in the clean section to fit larger batteries but then our gimbal would no longer bolt in properly.

Rikef16
30th January 2014, 04:07 PM
Thanks! Any dates on the gimbal?