View Full Version : The Cinemizer modding thread

7th November 2013, 05:09 PM
This thread is dedicated to modding the Cinemizer goggles.
Please share your modifications so everyone may benefit!

Here's a good way to remove the earphones and temples:
RCGroups - Removing Cinemizer temples (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21672181&postcount=1293)
You'll need a 3mm torx and a very small philips screwdriver.
The covers on the temples come off witha bit of force and wiggling, you can best start pulling at the location of the torx screw.
The metal rods come out by pulling back the front part of the housing, revealing their seats, then pushing something thin into the hole, they should come out the bottom, if not, they're pushing against the bottom part of the housing.

Rob (from FPV-Plastics) found out a good way to make this thing have a virtually unbreakable connector, I will be doing this mod and documenting it.

7th November 2013, 05:10 PM

One might try putting a connector on this board, I looked all over and couldn't find one with this pitch and width though. What i did in the end was the following:

Powerbox on headband mod
This tutorial covers how to neatly attach the powerbox of Cinemizer Plus to your FPV-Plastics skimask
First follow above steps to remove temples from goggles.

On the goggle side, pull the wire through the temple until you have about 10cm or 4" of wire.
Cut it so you have the board displayed above with about 10cm of wire attached.

Strip the wire:

IMPORTANT: There are three wires that have extra protection around them, the Yellow wire has a mantle that is attached to GND, cut this one off to prevent confusion (the main mantle is attached to ground as well)
The other pair however (Blue and Green) has a mantle that needs it's own pin, it's NOT hooked up to Gnd!

Now hook up the wires in a way that is logical to you, to an 8 pin socket or header of choice. I chose standard headers in a little piece of protoboard:

Soldering these wires is finnicky, don't heat them long and don't pre-tin them, just pre-tin the headers and lay em in the puddle, or you'll burn the plastic mantle.

Once you are done soldering, find a spot where you want the header, i found that the top-right-most of the airholes in the mask is the perfect spot for a 2x4 header to stick through.
Glue it in place with hot glue or CA (I used CA) but make sure the header sticks out the top of the mask enough to hook your plug of choice to it.
If need be, cut away some of the foam so you can reach the header base with your glue.

Next you're ready to take a part of wire off the powerbox, here's the inside, unhook the plug so you'll prevent shorting anything while the battery is still hooked up (or damaging the powerbox because it's unruly)

Take as much wire off as you like, just leave about 15 to 20cm intact (8") and strip it too.
Attach this wire to your plug of choice, I went easy and chose 3 servo plugs, cause i had them around.
Make sure you put them in the correct order (duh) so you don't blow anything up when you test.
These wires are rather weak, so please assure that they either won't bend too much, or put heat shrink around them for protection.
When you are done, attach the ribbon cable back to the cable that you just glued into the mask, the glue should have dried by now (if not, buy better CA)
When it's attached, you may want to test if everything works, because putting the goggles in the mask is rather permanent.

After testing, before lowering the goggles into the mask, try to run your wire like this, it worked very well for me:


Make sure you remove the rubber nosepiece from the Cinemizers.
Now lower the goggles into the mask, right (wired) side first. Gently bend the mask open a bit, then the nosepiece should fall under the nose part, now bend the mask open while pushing the left side of the Cinemizers in, it should snap into place firmly, you should be able to pitch the goggles inside the mask slightly to your own taste.

When done, attach the powerbox to the headband like this:

And you're done!

Tip: Have the AV/in port point downward so the receiver wire is less stressed.

Now we're still looking for a good socket to replace the crappy wiring on the ribbon cable board, if anyone knows anything, it's greatly appreciated!

c5galaxy engineer
8th November 2013, 03:23 AM
Im in......thanks Sicarius.

8th November 2013, 01:23 PM
hi guys

some time ago matrin ask me ,,hi like to mount power box on head band from ski goggle
and i alwase look at thing to make it more save
so a short wire,and easy to replace

if you remove the arm from cinemizer you got a flat cable came out,whit pcb board

if we find some like my furst link


this 8 pins header is to big we need 4 pins in 6 mm so 1.5 mm between the pins
and soldering some like this on the pcb,we got a real fine start

a 8 pins micro jst whit 15 cm wire fit into power box

what do you think about this


8th November 2013, 01:43 PM
I looked around but perhaps the measurement is wrong, my calipers are out of batteries so they are completely useless now

8th November 2013, 03:26 PM
Someone needs to do a wireless mod with this goggle. Small wireless 5.8 or 2.4 or 1.3 rx built in or strapped on.

9th November 2013, 07:53 PM
Updated the second post with the powerbox on headband mod! :)

20th November 2013, 07:11 AM
Hi guys

Need some backup


This look like jst that fit into powerbox

I look for krimp pliers to fix my one jst micro connectors

If you have info. Or now what pliers to orders.

Thanks. Rob

3rd December 2013, 03:47 PM

if i mod wire from power box to cinemizer

like photo



8th January 2014, 04:21 AM
Wires suck. I want to attach a 5.8 Rx to my power box so i can be free. I will attach a 5.8 repeater to my 2.4 lawmate Rx (incidently i can then be wirefree again on my doms for the passengers with the 5.8 Rx module).

Does my thinking make sense?:-
As the typical 5.8 Rx runs off 1cell (I am assuming here as no stats on this page) - http://team-blacksheep.com/products/product:166
then i should be able to power both the goggles and the receiver from the battery simply splitting the power from the battery.

I should then be able to solder a wire direct between the Rx and the input on the powerbox. I was then planning on shortening the power box cable as per the above in this thread and therefore strapping the whole lot to the head band.

Anyone else done this or similar?

8th January 2014, 04:37 AM

I bulding a vrx inside powerbox
I can t upload photo

If you send mail. You get photo


8th January 2014, 04:43 AM
Online on cellphone

My idea

2 cell lipo on headband

Stepdown 3.3 volt for cinemizer
Stepdown 5 volt for vrx

Order stepdown from flytron


13th January 2014, 05:58 AM
To mod the CMs for integrated 5.8 Rx can we not put one of these inside:

its operating voltage is 3.5 - 5v so i think the 3.7 Li-Ion battery the CMs run on should do the job?

Its is very small and probably won't even need the antenna as we are working on such close range (as in 5.8 repeater on the GS). You could practically squeeze it in with the battery?

I think this should work with the TBS Rookie 5.8 Tx I have as I believe it is the same module as comes in the TBS RC305 5.8 Rx

c5galaxy engineer
13th January 2014, 10:59 AM
That would be a cool mod Disco!!

15th January 2014, 02:25 PM

I got that foxtech module

You have to remove battery
And at 3.3 and 5 volt stepdown also in powerbox
And lipo on headband

But i buld a vrx in powerbox
And mount pb on headband
Clover is real close to face
Then your head block 180 degree

So powerbox on headband is not the best optie
I think


Btw. Got many cinemizer orders
So no time to play

And great news. I buy a new house yesterday
So out off time in 3 weeks????

15th January 2014, 02:52 PM
Why do you need the step down?

15th January 2014, 03:18 PM
I think a 2s lipo is the best

I think a full 1 cell lipo. 4.2 is to high


16th January 2014, 03:01 AM
Any reason why 4.2 would be too high as the specs of the component says it will take an input voltage between 3.3 and 5V? Having to add a stepdown and another battery adds to the bulk of the whole thing. I know nothing about these things, so just trying to learn through your reasoning.. :)

16th January 2014, 03:14 AM

If your vtx blow. No problem

If your cinemizer blow. Oepssss

16th January 2014, 03:34 AM
I continue to learn - how would adding a 2s and a stepdown reduce the chance of blowing the CMs? The only input to them from the Vtx would be as now - via the component input

16th January 2014, 03:35 AM

Btw. Got many cinemizer orders
So no time to play

And great news. I buy a new house yesterday
So out off time in 3 weeks????

Congratulations on the house purchase by the way!

16th January 2014, 05:39 PM

So guys. Please don t order for next 10 weeks. Lol


11th July 2014, 02:11 PM
Hey guys, I need some help. I applied 12v through the usb port (got some bad information regarding voltage input...) and i think I messed up some stuff :P

When i first plugged in the usb port with 12v volts the green battery light turned on and I thought it was charging so i left it for about 30 minutes. After this time i decided to try turning them on so i unplugged the 12v source and the green battery light stayed on... just solid green (weird behavior..?) When I would press/hold the power button the green light would turn off till i released the button and then the light would flash a few times then turn back on solid. I gave up after a while and let it sit. After probably 4 hours the light tuned off and i decided to try to charge it again. Plugged into a 5v source... no dice, nothing happened, tried the 12v source, same thing nothing happened. So i'm curious if anyone knows anything about the internals of the box. Do you think I blew the charging circuit to the batter or worse? Think i might be alright if i source the 3.3v on the batter input and bypass the USB connector or do you think i'm shit out of luck?

Thanks guys :)

11th July 2014, 02:11 PM
** Duplicate post ** :(

11th July 2014, 02:43 PM

Usb is 5 volt
You blow your powerbox

I got spare parts. So you can email me


c5galaxy engineer
12th July 2014, 12:41 PM
Rob to the rescue..........Tat da da daaaaaaaaaa!

12th July 2014, 10:42 PM
I actually got it working again... so if anyone messes up as bad as I did there is hope ;)


Just applying 3.7 volts into the battery port is still an option. I must have just blown something on the +5 usb rail (the charging circuit i'm guessing)...