What did you make these schematics in? I tried with Eagle but it doesn't recognize it.
EDIT: DUH I just read you use PCB Artist!
What did you make these schematics in? I tried with Eagle but it doesn't recognize it.
EDIT: DUH I just read you use PCB Artist!
Well today I officially made my first ever complete board ROFL. A basic ATTiny84 breakout board. I made this for a few reasons, first was for the soldering practice on these PCB's, second was so that I had an easy and convenient breadboard compatible breakout board for easy prototyping using the ATTiny84.
At the moment it has straight 14 pin header with direct connection to all of the 14 pins on the chip, a power indicator LED (and resistor of course), and color coded wiring. Soon I will put a reset button as well as a 500ma 5v regulator so it can be ran on a 9v battery or other power source, as it is at the moment it expects a proper regulated 5v input.
I added the reset button. Tomorrow I will probably add a 5v 500ma regulator and call it a done first project!
I just finished last night a home-made 6x6 LED Matrix. I did it to experiment with multiplexing plus to have a nice little display on my desk
View this video on YouTube
Very basic setup, the LED's are multiplexed into 6 rows (anode), and 6 columns (cathode). Each column is controlled via a transistor so that the current can be sank to ground directly and not an arduino pin as 6 LED's would be far above the max current sink allowed.
I need to get board spacers so I can properly sandwich the display together then I will case it with it's own Atmega328p and a USB connection so it can get display data from the computer real time.
I was also happy to find out my FY31AP TTL cable uses a pl1303 chip, which makes it 100% compatible with the arduino UART, which is awesome because when I go to make my custom telemetry datalink I will be able to hookup my FY31AP to it DIRECTLY!
I just moved into a new house, and one of the things I want to do is custom LED lighting effects, so I went ahead and ordered 200 rgb LED's, 50 shift registers, and 10 TLC5940 16 ch PWM drivers. Sofar I am thinking of driving 40 RGB LED's with a single TLC5940 and a single 595 shift register. This will work by driving 5 LED sets from the TLC5940 (3 colors * 5 = 15 channels to drive), then multiplex 8 total LED's per channel, this will give me 40 total RGB led's with full color mixing using 1 595, 1 5940, and 8 transistors, and a total power consumption of roughly 300ma per 40 RGB led's. I plan to put together 4 total units for a total of 160 LED's for computer controllable lighting in my living room
I also ordered 5 pairs of 10db 433mhz transceivers, I plan to use one pair to create a remote control for the LED lightning, another for a packet radio link between me and a friend that lives about a quarter mile from me (With direction LOS), and the others for whatever. One thing I plan to do is start developing my 2 way telemetry and AP control link too. I will use these cheap transceivers to start developing it, and upgrade to a much more powerful and reliable radio when the time comes for real use with my FPV. I plan to install a 20x4 LCD panel into my ground station and a keypad (Though I may eventually upgrade to something like OLED or full color display).
I also picked up a small pocket oscilloscope for $70 (specifically this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/280871517486...84.m1497.l2649), it only has a sampling bandwidth of roughly 200khz, but it is good enough for general electronics use, eventually I will pick up a nice used oscilloscope when a good deal on one presents itself.
Woo! My oscilloscope is here!
Now I can't wait to probe all kinds of things (at least as long as they are under roughly 200khz in frequency anyway :P)
I finished my arduino powered diversity system! Details can be found at http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....ered-Diversity
Woo! Did my first SMD soldering TODAY, not once, but TWICE!
First I started on a 28 pin TSSOP, the MAX7456 which is an OSD chip:
Then I progressed to the dreaded TQFP 100 pin chip (Atmel 2560):
Honestly it was SUPER EASY, just basically lay down a line of solder across the pins, then use solder wick to wick up all the excess! It literally took me much much longer to get the damn chips to line up on the pads then it took me to solder it
A quick check with my multimeter found NO bridges on either.
Also I have gathered pretty much everything I need to etch my own PCB, all I am waiting on is toner transfer paper.
Congrats! I intend to do the same thing myself using SMD components only and other fine-pitch connectors that they sell through digikey (the picoblade ones).
Why don't I share the resources that I found..
This guy sells 2-layer/4-layer at very good prices (multiples of 3). I made a board and paid US$16.50 for three in one go and you can have it made in 6-mil or 8-mil. I actually also order digikey components for 3 boards, so you can throw away one if it doesn't work out:
http://oshpark.com/
This guy sells "kapton" stencils, which are useful for ~100 applications of SMD stenciling: http://ohararp.com/Stencils.html
Sparkfun has very good tutorials on SMD work:
http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/58
http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59
When using solder paste, don't use latex gloves but the nitril ones. Latex is slightly porous and the paste contains nano-particles and other small stuff.
In my country, I can find the skillets for reflow, but at ridiculous prices. I'm going to use a cloth iron instead. What you need is just sufficient amount of heat being produced. Anything @ 800W or higher should work. Sparkfun also sells the IR measure sensor to monitor temperature during the process (see the graphs). You don't want temperature to go up too quickly or descend too quickly and there's a certain threshold where you need to keep the temperature stable to allow the heat to disperse.
SMT + Hot air pencil = bazinga!
View this video on YouTube
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