I program them one at a time using a programming card. I really want to make sure they're all the same.Originally Posted by sandblaster
I callibrate them all at once, it seems to work better that way. I made a little proto circuit board with 3 rows of headers with signal and ground joined. Quick and easy - I plug all the ESCs and the Rx into it, do the power-up calibration and I'm good to go.
I just plug them all in, haven't had any problems that I know of.
I am too lazy to cut the + on the BECs, but having only one ESC/BEC perform the power function is more efficient -- as ESCs use linear voltage regulators (the ones I use anyway), they burn up the excess voltage in the form of heat. So you're just throwing out power you don't need to throw out. That has nothing to do with the Naza specifically.
Separately, one thing that is advisable on any FPV quad (or any quad really) is that you try and eliminate a major point of failure: bullet connectors. You can do that if you have motors with long motor leads and then solder the motor wires straight onto the ESCs. To do that, you need to know the direction the ESC is spinning and reverse it if needed. Some ESCs (like the Tiger 18amp ESC) let you change the direction the ESC spinns the motor via a programming command from your TX or programming card. That's an easy way to not have to think about anything when you're assembling the QAV500 and then later check and change the direction any ESC spins a motor (if needed). This method eliminates a total of 24 (!!) total solder points and 12 bullet connector connections. That's a lot of possible failure points you're removing by doing this. And you speed up the build as well. You will need large heat shrink to cover up the ESCs again -- I use 20mm heat-shrink for this which works well for 18amp size ESCs.
Good information. I just knew someone was going to tell me to solder instead of bullet connecters. Did not think about the good points you make. The rotation issue was the reason for going bullets. What programming card works for the Tiger ESC? Have not found one yet.
Thought maybe the Naza with the extra unit the battery feeds was wired to isolate the ESC BEC wires.
I've had a miserable time soldering directly to Turnigy ESCs in the past, I have a hard time getting the existing solder to melt and an even harder time getting the new solder joint to be good and clean. I have a pretty decent soldering station with variable heat and even at the highest settings possible I've had problems. I'd MUCH rather have solid connections, but frankly I worry more about some of my bad ESC solder connections than well done, tightly sealed bullet connectors. If I use bullet connectors I always enclose them in 3-1 self sealing heat shrink tubing.
One thing that does help a bit is using old-fashioned lead solder. The newer green-friendly lead-free solders just don't seem to mix well with whatever Turnigy puts on their ESC power leads.
There is a PDF online for how to set the settings with a TX for the tiger ESCs. Easy to do -- so a good choice even if you can't hunt down the programming card. I am not sure how the Naza is wired, but I believe the 2nd unit does a few different things like read the voltage of the main lipo and also supply voltage to the Naza -- the ESC provided voltage seems to only power the RX through the Naza, but I may be wrong on that.
That is true. The solder used on Turnigy Plush ESCs is really tough. You need a good iron that gets VERY hot and have a tip that is clean and not oxidized. If the iron gets hot, it's actually just a 2 second job to remove the old wire and put the new wire on. An iron that does not get hot enough though makes it almost impossible to do this. Also, I use 60/40 Rosin Core Solder from RadioShack that works well.
The solder the chinese use is crap... the trick is to "freshen" up the solder pads with some lead solder (I use Sn60/Pb40). For my ultra light builds I skip the bullet connectors... but on my "daily driver" I've kept them on because I push my skills (rolls, loops, aerobatics) with this one and in crashes where a motor gets torn off the frame I've had the wires rip right out of the motor. Then I get to either spend an evening rewinding the motor or being lazy and replacing it. I think if you're using a $60 motor consider the ramifications of skipping the pull-apart-in-a-crash bullet connectors. Occasionally I'll find a loose fitting bullet connector, I take it off and throw it in the trash!!
Btw... Got a 4s 2200mah (tested against the 3s 2200mah) for the NTM 700kv 140w motor. So at 16 volts...
APC 10x4.7
Max thrust - 42.5
Amps - 17
Watts - 273.1
Gemfan 10x4.7
Max thrust - 41.1 (voltage did drop a little since this was test #2)
Amps - 15.6
Watts - 249.1
Compared to my 2213n's which top out at 25oz thrust these are just as efficient at max throttle with 4s. But tested at 10oz thrust they pulled 3amps versus the 4.2 that the 2213n's did. So quite a bit more efficient at a hover (for my bird anyways) then at full throttle. But 42oz of thrust x4 = 168oz (or 10.5 pounds) is pretty good! I think the HK rating of 140w is wrong. Even at 273 watts it didn't get all that warm... Handled it like a champ. I swear HK isn't paying me for this! lol...
RE: Tiger Motors 18A ESC. The instructions that came with it says noting about changing motor directions with the TX. Have these ESC coming as well: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9484 They do tell how to change directions with the TX. Have found problems with timing with the MT-3506 on some ESC. After ordering the HK set and then reading about timing issues, thought it best to run the T-Motor ESC with the T-Motor. Tiger motors give no information, that I can find, on there motor timing needs. There 18A ESC has timing adjustments but the instruction sheet makes no mention of there own motors. Is one to assume the Tiger ESC is set correct for there motors?
This is copied from the HK Mystery ESC manuel:
5.Timing setup : Automatic/ Low / High.
* Automatic – ESC automatically determines the optimum motor timing
* Low (7-22 deg) – Setting for most 2 pole motors.
* High(22-30 deg)-setting for motors with 6 or more poles.
In most cases, automatic timing works well for all types of motors.However for high efficiency we recommend the Low timing setting for 2 pole motors (general in-runners) and high timing for 6 poles and above (general outrunners). For higher speed, High timing can be set. Some motors require different timing setups therefore we suggest you to follow the manufacturer recommended setup or use the automatic timing setting if you are unsure.
Note: Run your motor on the ground first after making any changes to your motor timing!
Now that I'm totally and utterly confused, which ESC to use and what timing? Or do I plug and play? HELP please.
Man this is getting deep in the 'tech' side.
I am talking about these ESCs:
http://flyduino.net/T-Motor-ESC-18A-400Hz
And this is the manual that mentions how to revers the rotation:
http://www.flyduino.net/documents/tigerESC.pdf
Very interesting, this manual looks the same as this from HK:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...6X63807X39.pdf
Very curious, looks like the Mystery ESC is the same as the t_motor esc, at least the instructions appear the same. Is this possible?
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