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Thread: which drone battery brand do you like?

  1. #21
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    That's not yielding much either. I see lots of extremely low discharge, high resistance cells. What exactly are you making thats working well for you? Pack assembly is pretty straight forward so it would be great to bypass at least a few middlemen.

  2. #22
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    Click on high discharge cells and packs.
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  3. #23
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    I already did....20C is low discharge in 2017. I'd love to build a pack but if im going to do that they have to be either cheaper, better, or something that you cant buy pre-made. Fun rabbit hole, but not a solution for building packs.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronski View Post
    I already did....20C is low discharge in 2017. I'd love to build a pack but if im going to do that they have to be either cheaper, better, or something that you cant buy pre-made. Fun rabbit hole, but not a solution for building packs
    20C is a true rating and not some made up (phony) Chinese rating that will severely shorten the cells life and or the life of the craft it is installed in when it fails in flight.

    But hey if you want puffed up numbers and overheated cells go with the phony ratings, but you will eventually pay the price, so be prepared.
    Last edited by Channel 1; 6th August 2017 at 01:09 PM.
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  5. #25
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    just using pre-made packs of the same price as the DIY packs has worked well for me. Cheaper stuff would probably put you in the problematic range you are talking about, like the mixed results from zippy compact and nano-tech.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronski View Post
    just using pre-made packs of the same price as the DIY packs has worked well for me.
    I build batteries designed for an intended application, not for a lower price, actually in most cases they cost me more than pre-made packs, but the quality control is way better than anything coming out of China.

    Prior to assembly each cell is serial numbered then slow charged (1C), discharged (1C) and allowed to rest for 24 hours and it is then charged again, allowed to rest for 4 hours after which it is placed on a load tester that graphs it's discharge curve, once that is complete, they are sorted by true capacity, not rated capacity and then the batteries are built from cells that have the same or very close to the same capacity, this ensures the pack will both charge and discharge uniformly as a unit.

    One of the major problems I found with pre-made batteries was uneven cell to cell discharge voltages under high loads, which is a factor of capacity and internal resistance and by matching the cells I have been able to for the most part eliminate that problem.

    In addition I don't use "hobby" type connectors preferring to use connectors actually rated for the load they will be expected to carry and the connectors have latches that will not disconnect unless the latch is released, loss of a battery pack inflight is unacceptable and shall not happen.

    Cheaper stuff would probably put you in the problematic range you are talking about, like the mixed results from zippy compact and nano-tech.
    Cheap and flight should never be used in the same sentence, I find it very odd that someone will have a lot of money tied up in a craft, but then goes cheap on the most important component, power, loss of power equals loss of the craft and a good possibility of a liability problem, when it comes to power only a fool would try to save a few bucks.
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  7. #27
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    I see, so you bin them yourself at home from a supply that has variance. Did you find any other supplies to try or are these the only ones available as raw cells anyhow? I would be very tempted if there was a break even point on 3300mah 4S. Hopefully matching is done to some extent with pre-made packs, but it's a crap shoot and probably varies on the same slide ruler that price does. Most of us are just flying our toys around so the requirements are don't puff and/or wear out prematurely. Even resistance to voltage sag is a something I can work with if its within reason on fixed wing. Is the plane still fast and cell volts aren't eating themselves? if yes then the voltage is good.

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