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Thread: Ritewing Mini Drak Build and Info

  1. #1
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Ritewing Mini Drak Build and Info

    Oh yes, it is almost time. The Ritewing Mini Drak has completed the molding phase and is in the shipping phase from Germany – that means that delivery of pre-orders is not far off. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a sample run of the mold and will be doing a build thread along the way. The build is similar to the Big Drak, with a modification or two to the technique to save time. If you haven’t yet seen a video of the mini in the air, I’ll post up a video of Chris flying the proto below, as well as a first impression video Chris did after getting the samples. If you haven’t yet picked one up, I’d suggest you get on it before they’re gone. These aren’t hot cut, so once the well is dry – it’s dry.


    Pricing is as follows:
    Mini drak kit only pre sale 175.00 .
    Mini Drak cf rod horns 30.00
    Mini Drak mg servos 65.00
    Mini Drak motor esc combo 125.00
    Lam 25.00.
    Nose cone 30.00




    Here’s a team legit video featuring Chris with the prototype mini. The molded version is slicker and probably lighter, so if it looks this good then… I’m excited






    Here is Chris’s first impression video after getting the mold samples:












    Here is me after opening the box and seeing the fuse for the first time











    I then laid it out, admired it, then pooped my pants.








    Aaaaaand the build:


    If you’re building one yourself and using this as a guide, be sure to have:
    Snap razor with several fresh blades
    Goop adhesive
    Hot glue
    Sand paper
    Dremel, hacksaw or other cutting tool
    Pliers / cutters
    Plasti Dip
    Laminate (if laminating or attaching elevons with laminate)
    Moving and Storage tape (for Z-hinging and attaching elevons if you prefer over laminate)
    Weights (batteries work fine – 400 + g)


    I started off by removing all the fill port nubs with a brand new, high quality snap razor









    I then removed the spars from the spar sleeves, placed the spar sleeves in the spar slots, marked out my cuts and cut them to size with a dremel and metal disk cutter





    I then sanded down all the pieces and washed them off to get rid of all the dust. I actually used a damp paper towel so that I didn’t get any water inside – as I was installing right then and didn’t want water spilling out into my glue








    I then prepped the spar slots by sanding them and roughing them up inside. You really just want to break the mold skin, as things have a tough time sticking to it








    I then used some E6000 (very similar to goop, but slightly thinner to spread better (but goop works fine) and a hot glue gun to install the sleeves. They fit perfectly in the slot, so it’s very easy to get these done correctly. What I did was use the goop in the middle and hot glue at both ends. This allowed me to drop in the spar sleeve, press hard down all over to have it spread the glue, and release shortly after with the hot glue holding it in place while the goop cured. They are super strong at the end of this, and they will be getting another layer of goop over top still when doing the spar caps – so this is a solid method and very permanent.








    After a few hours they were cured enough to fit everything together and check out what this beauty really looks like


    Here’s the spars just installed







    Here’s the beast all together








    Next I did the thin glass spars on the tops of the wings. I cut the spars to fit, filled the slots with goop, placed the spars in and twisted to cover the entire spar with goop. I then went along and pressed it in to ensure it was seated at the bottom of the channel, then went over it with my finger to remove any excess glue and smooth it all out. Chris is recommending actually making a slice in the channel and embedding the spar, to save time. I will be doing this on the fuselage, but I like the wing spars to be on the surface. I beam spars are stronger the further apart they are, but honestly I just like the way it looks







    I weighted them down for the night to cure with the wings straight









    I then messed around and started thinking about what I’m going to do for a video system config. It would be super slick to cut a perfect port out for the runcam that allows it to slide in from the back, with just the lens showing up front and no obstructions to the nose… We’ll see what happens…










    Lots more to come as it happens. Next up is spar caps, then bottom wing glass spars, then motor mount, then fuse spars, then painting
    Last edited by Hoss; 24th January 2017 at 03:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Next I did the motor mount. There is a score line right where it slips in, so it's super easy to cut in. Since this is an early one, I needed to cut the mount a little in order to not run into trouble down the road when installing the blind nuts for the bay lid. I used a dremel with a wheel cutter, just like the spar sleeves, and then used a sanding drum bit to make room for the nut later on.




    I then used a coping saw to make the cut for the mount. I made the main cut, then spent a little time going back and forth removing a little bit of foam from inside the cut to make room for the mount.

    '


    I then filled the cut with goop, inserted the mount and moved it around a bit to be sure there was full coverage, then added more goop just for good measure. Once I knew it was perfect, I stacked some batteries on to compress the area and let it set for several hours.






    It came out looking good.






    I then made slits all the way down the spar channel on both sides of the top of the fuse. I cut the spars to fit, ran a small phillips head down the slits a few times to open them up a bit inside, then filled the slits with goop and inserted the spars.



    Can barely even tell they're in there, and no pinning, hot glue or any other effort. Simply let dry.





    Next I need to do the spar caps. Chris will be getting in some gray foam and will be cutting spar caps for the kits, but since the foam isn't in yet, I need to cut up a big Drak elevon and use that to shape them myself. No big deal, just tedious and I have been avoiding it Can't avoid it any more, cause I want to paint this thing. Spar caps will be tomorrow, followed by bottom wing and bottom fuse spars. Then it's time to paint, which I am really excited about. I think it's going to look sick.
    Last edited by Hoss; 25th January 2017 at 12:41 AM.

  3. #3
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Ahhhhhh... And we're there...

    Spar caps shaped (you won't have to do this - it'll already be done)






    Getting cut flush - looking good:




    They're cut - then I went ahead with the bottom fuse spars as well as the bottom wing spars. Tomorrow, everything will be dry and ready for paint Been waiting for this day...

    3
    Last edited by Hoss; 26th January 2017 at 03:01 AM.

  4. #4
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Ok - she's done. Maiden will be Saturday morning and Sunday as well - hopefully that goes according to plan and there is a lot of video to share.


    It's tiny!!! And the big drak is BIG after handling this thing for a while...









    Little dude approved









    The guts. A little messy with wiring, but not too bad







    I 3D printed a plate for the battey. I originally printed a strap plate, but there was no room to actually strap them correctly, so I went with dual lock. I was originally concerned about the weight, but I am not any more - I hit CG perfectly by sliding the battery all the way forward.




    I still have to add some reinforcement to the bottoms of the vertical stabilizers for landing, which will give me more tail weight, so to counter this, I am going to do what I did on the big drak and add a landing skid to the bottom of the nose. So far, I just put some 10 mil laminate to protect the bottom. It gets hard after heating and cooling, and is very thick, so it would last forever, but a skid would be much better to keep the nose out of the rocks and anything else it might encounter along the way






    I buried the singularity antenna in the saddle bay and had to cut a relief hole in the lid in order to close it. I used laminate to cover the hole to restore a smooth surface over the area rather than expose the hole to the airflow over the top of the mid section. I also cut in the Dragon Link antenna in the other bay and glued it in place, extending out both the top and bottom of the wing for full reception.










    Electronics







    This is the landing skid that I put on the big drak (with a tactical flashlight on top of it weighting it down while it dried). The mini will not have one that protrudes quite as much, but I will be adding one before maiden.








    I got the vector 100% finalized last night with all settings and osd. Ready to Rip!
    Last edited by Hoss; 16th February 2017 at 11:53 AM.

  5. #5
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Last edited by Hoss; 22nd February 2017 at 02:41 PM.

  6. #6
    Looks great can't wait to get my kit.

  7. #7
    Co-Pilot Håvard Støre's Avatar
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    Excellent explanations and pictures Scott Just wish I had a Mini Drak myself. Maybe sometime in the future.

  8. #8
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    Looks great bro

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Fretsaw Jedi Roboforcer X2000's Avatar
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    I can see why you pooped your pants, this thing is very exciting!
    If you're a noob, copy 1:1 what somebody already flies without too much questions, you'll find the answers later.
    PatrikE: I don't see anything wrong in your dump...
    Derrick:
    you are flying it LOS... You are doing it wrong.

  10. #10
    Navigator Hally1983's Avatar
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    looks great. Where will the fpvcam go? dont think i would use a runcam for feed.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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