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Thread: Building the worlds fastest fpv plane

  1. #121
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    Just in case anyone wonders..... I didn't invent this use of the word splooge. Google "epoxy splooge", and it all makes sense.

  2. #122
    Team Blacksheep FPVflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Håvard Støre View Post
    Yeah! Ordinary household items are often the solution. I was thinking about making a vacuum pump from a fridge compressor, but I didnt bother and just ordered one.

    Cracked the mold this evening. The parts came out rather well. A couple of imperfections because of air between the paint and the glass, but no biggie. The stabs are stronger, stiffer and heavier than they need to be, so I may make another lighter pair.
    Wow, just wow..... Really nice see the whole procedure so detailled explained, thanks for that!

    Just for asking, theses molds are reusable I suppose, any chance to order one of this frame in the future?
    "RSSI on the OSD? No, it just make me nervous..."

    Correction: No more nervous with TBS Crossfire!

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by FPVflyer View Post
    Wow, just wow..... Really nice see the whole procedure so detailled explained, thanks for that!

    Just for asking, theses molds are reusable I suppose, any chance to order one of this frame in the future?
    Yes. If the plane performs very well, I will make a few to sell.

  4. #124
    That is looking really nice!

    I think you will be more than good with just one layer of glassfiber on that vertical stabilizers. Maybe a carbon roving in the middle of the area placed vertically. Have you thought on using polyurethane instead of a hollow section? There are nice 2 component poliuretane foam out there. After a few tests in the mold for having an idea of how much it will expand it can work all right. Besides filling the piece after cured, during expansion it squeezes the layers over the mold, making a "pseudo-vacuum" efect. This works nicely in slim pieces. Most of large rc helicopter blades nowadays are made this way. If the leading edge is slim enough, and I think it is in your case, it can be closed just with a pair of carbon rovings instead of microballons, same with trailing edge. I have lots of dead helicopter blades, if you are interested in this method I can upload pictures of them for appreciating the build method.

    Keep the good work!

    Regards.

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by david sas View Post
    That is looking really nice!

    I think you will be more than good with just one layer of glassfiber on that vertical stabilizers. Maybe a carbon roving in the middle of the area placed vertically. Have you thought on using polyurethane instead of a hollow section? There are nice 2 component poliuretane foam out there. After a few tests in the mold for having an idea of how much it will expand it can work all right. Besides filling the piece after cured, during expansion it squeezes the layers over the mold, making a "pseudo-vacuum" efect. This works nicely in slim pieces. Most of large rc helicopter blades nowadays are made this way. If the leading edge is slim enough, and I think it is in your case, it can be closed just with a pair of carbon rovings instead of microballons, same with trailing edge. I have lots of dead helicopter blades, if you are interested in this method I can upload pictures of them for appreciating the build method.

    Keep the good work!

    Regards.
    Yes, I thought about using 2 component foam, but for the time being I will have to stick to the material I already have. I will make a new set of stabs with 2 layers of glass and use vacuum, as my pump have arrived. Carbon rowings for closing the molds would be excellent as it woulds add strength and is light weight, but again... Dont have the materials, but probably in the future.
    My main molds came out really strong, true and stiff, much thanks to the stiffeners I added. Thanks again for that crucial piece of advice. Yes, I would very much like to see pictures of the method using PU to fill the helicopter blades, along with information on the densities of foam you use. For thin shapes it seems superior to using spars.

  6. #126
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    The following series of pictures shows how I make the spars that will go inside the wings and fuselage. Its made from 5mm perforated balsa sandwiched between 160g fiberglass.

    I used a sheath of 5mm glass with wax and PVA. PVA was probably not necessary, but whatever.... On the glass I put down a layer of 160g and resin:
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    I then put down the perforated balsa after soaking both sides with resin:
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    160g fiberglass:
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    Perforated release film and many yards of kitchen paper towels:
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    Vacuum bag with fittings (my first time using vacuum):
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    Vacuum...... This is so cool:-)
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  7. #127
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    Making balsa/fiberglass ply:


  8. #128
    Instructor Pilot Channel 1's Avatar
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    When prying your work loose you might want to consider using a metal spatula instead of your fingers, it will protect your hands and fingers from glass cuts and splinters and will not bend your work as much during the release process.

    Wayne
    Everybody loves a bunny.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Channel 1 View Post
    When prying your work loose you might want to consider using a metal spatula instead of your hands, it will protect your hands from glass cuts and will not bend your work as much during the release process.

    Wayne
    Thanks:-) I will use a metal spatula next time.

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Håvard Støre View Post
    Thanks:-) I will use a metal spatula next time.
    By the way what kind of resin are you using?

    Wayne
    Everybody loves a bunny.

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