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Thread: Cinetank MK2-L Build thread

  1. #1
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    Post Cinetank MK2-L Build thread

    Cinetank MK2 – L build Thread


    Introduction and whats in the box

    After an off the cuff comment on Bllama's Cinetank thread I now find myself writing out a build thread for Flying Cinemas new Cinetank.

    I'd been looking at the cinetank since when I first caught sight of it on RCModelReviews. When I saw that there was now a new version that can swing 12” props, and was given a little discount for writing this, my mind was made up and it was time to get ordering.


    So here's a quick summary of my build specs

    Cinetank MK2-L (no gimbal as yet)
    Sunnysky V3508 580KV motors. (BuddyRC)
    Afro 20A slim ESC's (Maybe with BL Heli firmware)
    12x6 HQ composite props or 12x4.5 GemFan Composite props
    Turnigy multistar 4s 5200mah 10C lipos (1 for normal flight or 2 for endurance)
    Full naze with GPS ( I like how it flys, need a reliable RTL, will see how it goes)
    OpenLRSng
    Sony super HAD 700TVL
    Boscam 500mW 2.4GHz Vtx
    Witespy KVTeam OSD
    Turnigy dual voltage regulator
    Home made skews, and dipole.


    On with the build

    The tank arrived in a card board box, as you can see there was duty to pay




    Everyone loves a sticker!



    Here's what you get with the MK2 L kit;



    Here are some extras you may want to add on;

    Different grade rubber balls for different climates, black most flexible, pink medium, grey stiffest



    Motor adapters, for asymetric hole patterns;



    Battery Straps


    JST connectors to power FPV / gimbal / voltage sensing.



    Heli landing gear, useful if you want to run an X8 configuration and to help stop gimbal from striking the floor in long grass etc.





    Here are the CNC'd parts that make up the frame



    From left to right; Clean top plate, Clean bottom plate, dirty section side pieces, and adjustable gopro shelf, Dirty bottom plate, Dirty top plate. At the top is the removable cover for the bottom dirty section, this allows you easy access to the inside of your dirty section. Should make assenbly as well as maintenance easier.

    Weight of the fibreglass parts in case you are interested.


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    Post Assembling the frame

    Assembling the frame

    First take a few minutes to de-bur and clean your frame. There may be some fibreglass dust and some carbon splinters left over from the machining process. We don't want any carbon getting in the electronics as it's conductive. I used some rolled up sand paper in the arms and a craft knife to remove splinters. To clean the frame I sprayed everyones favourite WD-40 on to some clean rag and used that to wipe over the frame.



    You may also want to go over the arm brackets and remove any tabs that remain from the injection moulding process.




    Now is probably a good time to give your work bench a good clean down as from here in the build is 'clean'. We definitely dont want any filings getting into our motors!!!


    Take the top section of the dirty plate and attach the medium length nylon stand offs into the correct position. I did mine like this;



    The stand offs should be positioned so that they are flat side facing outwards as they butt up flush against the dirty section side plates. Tighten the screws. Dont go crazy though as your screwing into nylon, not steel!

    Now rest the plate on the stand offs, and take the longest screws from the pack and drop them through the holes in the plate, like this;



    Get something solid like a piece of card, or in my case a ring binder, place it over the top of the screw heads.



    Then flip the whole lot over.



    Slide off the folder and onto the work bench

    Pinch together the clamps by hand, assuming they are lined up they will click and hold themselves into the carbon arms.






    Then slide over the screws, this is quite fiddly as the tolerances are quite tight.



    Repeat with remaining arms



    Slot in the side plates, remember the flying cinema logo should be upside down so that its the right way up when the tank is fully assembled




    Slot on the bottom plate, I found one way around seemed to fit better than the other, so if you're having trouble try another orientation;



    Carefully work your way around pinching the plates into place using your hands. Eventually I will all fall into position.

    Last edited by Benny_H88; 16th December 2014 at 02:49 PM.

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    Post Assembling the frame continued

    Now we are ready to fit the 3d printed feet, I used a spare screw to help
    locate the nuts into the holes.




    Screw the feet down loosely, I put some screws in the standoffs to keep track of where they are/



    Tighten down each screw a little bit at a time so that the clamps pull down evenly, id suggest tightening in the following sequence:



    Bllama suggested using some CA on the side plates of the dirty section for extra strength. Ill be waiting until I know its not going to be coming apart before I do that.

    Now screw in the posts for the top plate retainers.



    Now to fit the bobbins (/ balls / whatever they are called!).
    Fold a piece of wire in half and poke it up through the hole,



    Loop around the bobbin,



    Then pull, once it pops into place, give it a spin to make sure its seated properly.



    Once all your bobbins are in its time to fit the stand offs to the bottom plate of the clean section, offer up your battery to the bay so you can select which holes to use. Remember to tighten them with the flat sides facing the battery for maximum clearance.



    My 4s 5200 multistar just fits!



    Now fit your flight controller stand offs if needed ( as you can see I didnt do it til after id mounted the clean section, it's not hard to do it after, but its even easier to do it before).



    Now fit the bottom plate to the bobins using the same method as before.




    Now screw the retainer washer down to the posts, you'll need the shortest screws for this for the top side at least.




    How I have positioned my bobbins for now, may require further adjustment down the road.



    Top plate screwed down and a few components in to mock it up.

    Last edited by Benny_H88; 22nd December 2014 at 02:06 PM. Reason: added video

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    Post Wiring it up and mounting the motors

    Included in the kit is a small hexagon of double sided copper clad board, aptly named the “CineCoin”. The CineCoin is intended to be used as a power distribution board, the idea is one side will be your ground, the other your Positive.

    To begin with solder your wires that will go to the battery to the board. I decided to use 14AWG wire, I worked out what gauge to use by first checking the prop data for my motors, I estimated the weight of my build then added a bit for luck, from this I could then work out the current draw for it to hover. (about 3-4A per motor 16A total). From this info I could then choose what C rated battery to run. Im going to be carrying 5000mah so a 5000mah 10C battery is enough. I then used the same gauge of wire as what is used on the selected battery.

    To save weight we need to use as little wire as possible.



    If you're not sure how to solder or arent very good at it then now's the time to learn. It's an essential skill that will be often used in your FPV / RC career.
    Here's a nice how to video by NightFlyyer.



    Like he says in the video, everyone has their own techniques, you'll develop yours over time.

    One thing that is worth noting is that some flux's are conductive, if yours is the conductive type then make sure you wash it away from the solder joint, using alcohol, or WD-40 at a push.

    My esc's will be living inside the arms of the tank as thats what they are made to do. So I can get them in and out easily I will be doing this a bit differently. You may want to have a look at the MK1 build video as they use another method.

    Another reason for using my method is because the MK2 tank has the removable bottom access panel.

    I removed the heat shrink from the esc's motor connections.



    Then de-soldered the bullet sockets



    I then soldered the sockets onto the CineCoin. (not pretty, but it will work)



    I also soldered on the jst connectors that will go up to the clean section, one to power the TGY dual voltage regulator and another that will go to the voltage sensing port on the Naze.



    I coated the cinecoin with liquid electrical tape to prevent any shorts later on down the line.

    {Image here}

    Now it's time to turn our attention to the motors, mount the adapters, I highly recommend using Loctite on the threads so that the screws don't work loose.



    To apply it I squeeze it out onto a board then dip the screws into it.



    Do the same with the prop boss screws.

    Offer up your motors to the frame, work out where the esc's will sit and then cut your motor wires to length. I'd suggest whatever length you decide add on another 1-2cm, better looking at it than looking for it, as a sparky would say .



    More Loctite.



    Use the same screws as used to hold down the standoffs to the frame, (second shortest), Do up the screws bit by bit again, like the frame clamps, this time the tightening order should be like the wheel of your car (opposite corners).



    Time to mount the motors to the arms.



    Drop the nuts into the bracket, they should fall in nicely.



    My top tip for finding the hole, Rest the bracket on the arm,



    Then slide it allong until it drops in,



    Repeat with the bottom bracket, then pinch the two together. Run in the screws from the bottom, just enough to get the screw fully into the threads.



    Now tighten the clamps, again bit by bit, in the following order;



    Keep an eye on the motors as you do this so that they are vertical, you also need to make sure the gap around the edge is even. If you find the motor is not quite vertical and looks a bit wonky you can try loosening the clamp at the other end then re-tightening it carefully. The great thing about Flying Cinema frames is that you can do this, there are holes and cut outs so that the clamp bolts are easily accessible .

    Couldn't resist trying on the props


    mini for scale
    Last edited by Benny_H88; 22nd December 2014 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Swapped cinecoin pic, original positioning did not fit so well

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    I'll be soldering the motors to the esc's tomorrow, still to come is installing the naze, flashing the kvteam osd from witespy, setting up the OpenLRSng receiver for PPM, wiring up the fpv equip, and other finishing touches. Allot of it is waiting on my hobbyking orders which seem to be taking an age to arrive.

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    Ok, after a short delay here comes some more build thread!
    Depending upon your choice of flight controller, osd, vtx, camera, rc link etc some of this may not be relevant to you so take what you need and ignore the rest .

    I soldered the pins to my naze32 board, I used straight header to keep as much of the wire as possible inside the frame. When I fit the board ill be adjusting its orientation so that the input pins face the front and the usb port points out to the left side. By doing this not only do I get easy access to the USB port, I also get more room to move the battery forward to obtain the correct CG.

    Before;

    After;


    I find when soldering pin header its best to first hold the header where you want it and tack opposing corners with solder. You can re-heat and adjust the position as needed until you're happy with it. Then go ahead and solder up all the other connections.

    Next I prepared to solder the ESC's to the motors.
    I removed some of the shrink wrap from the ESC's to give me better access to the ESC motor wires. I then stripped the wires and tinned them.



    I then soldered the ESC's to the motors, making sure to first put heat shrink on the motor wires and slide well away from the joint.



    I then slide the tube over the joints to insulate them but I don't heat it. I can then set up what I have so far as a test bed. Unless you want to solder your XT60 connector twice like I did I would suggest you first thread the wires through the gap in the back of the frame as the plug wont fit through. Fitting the arm clamps with the protruding bit facing outwards may avoid this issue.



    I ran the motors up using the cleanflight GUI's in built motor test screen, you need to first tick a checkbox to indicate that you have the props off.

    There are other threads detailing how to set up baseflight, I will be putting together a cleanflight quick start guide once ive figured out how to do it myself .

    If your motors spin the wrong way you will need to desolder any two of the motor wires and swap them, this will reverse the direction. (can also be done using afro programming tool and BlHeli I believe, however this way is nice and simple.

    Once all your motors are turning the correct way you can Heat up the shrink tube, and install the ESC's in the arms. I put a couple of wraps of electrical tape around the ESC's where I removed the shrink wrap. Perhaps later on i'll solder the motor leads direct to the board to save a few grams.



    I soldered my turnigy dual voltage regulator direct to the cinecoin. It's no living in the front half of the dirty section (to aid weight distribution) the leads from the regulator poke through a hole up into the clean section to power flight controller and receiver(5V) and my FPV gear and perhaps a gimbal in future (12V).
    Dual voltage regulator
    The Regulator is capable of handling up to 50VDC input, and outputting a whopping 10A at 12V, and 5A at 5V. The only penalty is the weight which is 40g. I suspect if you don't intend to pull that much current, or use 6s then you could happily downsize the heatsink and save maybe 10g. Also the wires it comes with are quite long so theres a few more grams to be saved by shortening to the minimum required length.



    Next I added my camera platform, it's adjustable to help balance out the CG. As it slides, and as I had some spare from a previous build, I used some nylon washers on the bolts. These should help avoid any scratching of the Fibreglass when making adjustments.



    I popped my OpenLRSng receiver on top of the Tank towards the rear. When planning out a build it is best practice to seperate transmitters and receivers. So My GPS will also be at the back and my Vtx will be at the front.

    Here's a link to an OpenLRSng setup video I made.



    Here she is setup ready for a test flight.



    As you can see without fpv gear, but with an extra battery, she weighs in at a tidy 2.068g.
    Now we are ready for a hover test.



    After 16 minutes of hovering, mixed with a bit of gentle flying around, in a stiff breeze I had an indicated 14.73V and an estimated 10% remaining in one of the batteries. The other was not connected at all.



    I got home and charged the pack up,



    It indicated I had used just 4055mAh! That means with the current setup that this could potentially stay in the air for a whopping 40 MINUTES!

    I think that with tarot motor mounts, and a 13-14” prop depending on what will fit, it could potentially carry a few more mAh and extend the flight time even further!!


    I'm now working on setting up my OSD, and GPS. My video transmitter and flight cam. Building my video antenna and a UHF dipole. Then it will be looking for more areas to shed weight. I will post updates as and when they happen. Any questions about my setup please post away. I've got the thread setup with email alerts so I should reply quite promptly.

    Happy Flying Folks!!!
    Last edited by Benny_H88; 22nd December 2014 at 03:14 PM.

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    And another one

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    flyingcinema.com bllama's Avatar
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    Wow!! super detailed, I love it!

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    Great write up
    Multirotor Canada
    www.facebook.com/groups/multirotorcanada

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    Flying Cinema Dev Team
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    Great stuff Benny, really like what I see here! Nice tips and technique!

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