Cinemizer OLED Video Goggles

[timnilson]

Hi Tim. I like your mod, but confused about something. What do you do with the little PC board inside the right temple after you remove the temple? Do you just leave it loose inside the goggles? Or tape it down somewhere? It's all really delicate and I would think very prone to damage unless you took care to protect.

I put a bit of 0.5" heat shrink around the PCBs and then glue the heat-shrink encased PCB to the inside of the ski mask so that you can still stick in the headphone plug -- at least that's how it works on the OLED version. Not sure about the Plus.

[a_marmot]

The problem I had (mentioned in other thread) is that intermittent tension on the line ultimately pulled some of the individual wires off the PC board. I've revised so that the PC board is now encased in heat shrink (much as you describe), and then duct-taped to the top of the Cinemizers along the seam where they come out of the ski goggles. I then run the thin ribbon cable flat along the top of the Cinemizers and down through a new slot cut in the top. This way all tension is kept off the wires.

Which leads to my second question. Do you know what the individual wires are on the PC board? I am wondering if it might be possible to get rid of the battery box altogether, and just power from the ground station. Do you know if the internal power is 5V or 3.3V? Or what the individual colors mean, and which one is video?

On the C+, the wires into the PC board have the following color and arrangement:

1st row: Red, Black, Yellow, Orange
2nd row: Purple, Blue, Green, Brown

Before breaking out the oscilloscope yet to sort out what is what, i just thought I'd ask!

[Ian Davidson]

Hi Tim. I like your mod, but confused about something. What do you do with the little PC board inside the right temple after you remove the temple? Do you just leave it loose inside the goggles? Or tape it down somewhere? It's all really delicate and I would think very prone to damage unless you took care to protect.

The PCB board is very lightweight, therefore should not be a burden on the cables, the cables are more likely to be a burden on the PCB board.

With mine, I simply put a tie wrap around the heat-shrink to act as a bit of an anchor/bard and give the Sugru something to bite on to and then carefully pushed the board back into the goggles and encapsulated the cable-exit with Sugru.

The cable-exit now won't push in or pull out - unless you're very brutal. So far, mine's been brilliant. No issues.

[a_marmot]

I put a bit of 0.5" heat shrink around the PCBs and then glue the heat-shrink encased PCB to the inside of the ski mask so that you can still stick in the headphone plug -- at least that's how it works on the OLED version. Not sure about the Plus.

Tim- Do you know the identity of the 8 colored wires on the PC board?

[timnilson]

Tim- Do you know the identity of the 8 colored wires on the PC board?

No -- cutting or modding the signal wires that goes into the base was something I avoided. The risk of screwing something up on my OLED prototypes was too high.

But, you can always assume that BLACK is ground and RED is +. Use a multi meter on these two cables and see if you get something that makes sense.

[GekoCH]

Hy

If someone needs help with the wiring of the goggles I started a mew thread explaining the wiring:
http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....nemizer-wiring

Andy

[timnilson]

Hy

If someone needs help with the wiring of the goggles I started a mew thread explaining the wiring:
http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....nemizer-wiring

Andy

Thanks for doing that Andy!

[flouSH]

Hi Tim,

love this thread as I preordered one of those awesome (-ly expensive) googles in May. Really hope they hit the "end of July" timeframe. I'm so jealous that you already have fun with them

Can you reaffirm how much better they are than everything else out there so shorten the time until they are shipped please? Are there any reviews out there already?

Also: How do you connect them to the base station (in my case ImmersionRC Duo) - is component cable default or do I need to hack anything?

Thanks!

[timnilson]

Hi Tim,

love this thread as I preordered one of those awesome (-ly expensive) googles in May. Really hope they hit the "end of July" timeframe. I'm so jealous that you already have fun with them

Can you reaffirm how much better they are than everything else out there so shorten the time until they are shipped please? Are there any reviews out there already?

Also: How do you connect them to the base station (in my case ImmersionRC Duo) - is component cable default or do I need to hack anything?

Thanks!

The OLEDs are very nice. There is a review of them here:
http://www.fpvmanuals.com/2011/07/19...e-fpv-horizon/

Here is a rough perspective on how how they compare to other goggles. This is just an approximation but is easier to understand than trying to describe it in words.

Look at the full-screen image here: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5034/6...4a97c66f_o.png

[flouSH]

Thanks so much Tim - exactly why I was looking for

Now we just need some electronics wizard to work on a perfect solution stretching from a nice light-weight cam over to a Tx which is able to transmit a 16:9 picture down to the googles (with a vendor's sun shade or your nice mod) and we're all set.

HD transmission via WLAN, 4G or $ome_new_standard would be nice, but is possibly not necessary. More interesting would be a dual Tx/camera setup to get the 3D running. I mean this is already feasible... but the question is: What is needed to get the mixing right on the ground? Or is there a way to get two video-ins running, one for each display?