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Thread: Deep Reaper

  1. #81
    RTFM aeryck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derrick View Post
    What? That makes my Brain hurt thinking about it... Can you post your mixes?
    I posted mixes specifically for a DX8 a while ago that detail how to use a switch on the radio to toggle the left stick between throttle/rudder and camera pan/tilt. It also uses the rotary knob on the DX8 for throttle adjustment (when the switch is in pan/tilt mode) and fine-tuning the camera's tilt angle (when the switch is in throttle/rudder mode).

    Edit:

    Here's the link, I even attached the model file that you can import directly into your radio via the SD card... Just make sure the channels line up. =]

    http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....ll=1#post47769
    Last edited by aeryck; 4th May 2012 at 09:48 AM.
    Far better is it to dare mighty things, even though checkered by failure; than to take rank with those who neither enjoy much or suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat.

  2. #82
    Wings... Just simple! Derrick's Avatar
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    Thank you... I am sure I'll find this very useful.
    What goes up... must come down, the trick is maximizing the up!

  3. #83
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    slowly building up a deep reaper while l learn to fly on an albatross these crash test planes are awesome

    i went with
    - NTM 3536 1400kv
    - turnigy plush 60A
    - 9x6 prop
    - CasleCreations 10A ubec

    I am undecided on the batteries, i have 2 5000 4s and 2 3000 4s batteries that i could use
    also undecided on the servos and control (2.4, 72mhz or uhf) probably start with the 2.4 then go to uhf, i have a dx8 and a 72mhz T7chp

    I wont know what i am putting in for FPV until i can get access to the classifieds section here. I will probably be buying all that used. and i am undecided on what frequency to go with.

    i also have a gopro that will eventually go in there and 2 #16 keychain cams

  4. #84
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    about to mount my motor and i was wondering what people are doing with the motor shaft on the NTM 3536 1400 motor?

    do i cut punch a hole in the foam with a soldering iron for it to fit into? the motor shaft sticks out really far towards the nose of the plane. should i cut it off? i am a bit worried about getting metal in the motor if I do that.

  5. #85
    Pat h0tr0d's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmophoto View Post
    about to mount my motor and i was wondering what people are doing with the motor shaft on the NTM 3536 1400 motor?

    do i cut punch a hole in the foam with a soldering iron for it to fit into? the motor shaft sticks out really far towards the nose of the plane. should i cut it off? i am a bit worried about getting metal in the motor if I do that.
    Cut the shaft. It's way more work if you don't. You can cover the motor with a plastic bag if you're really worried. I didn't and spun mine up when I cut it and rounded off the cut off end.

  6. #86
    Pilot FPVdude's Avatar
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    Whenever I cut a shaft I just push it through a plastic bag, this should keep out any metal filings. Maybe not needed, but generally a good idea.

  7. #87
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    thanks, chopped it off. have a few more questions..

    a. should i taper the back edge of the plane in front of the prop? what are the benefits of it besides giving the prop cleaner air (probably a very good thing). does it make that much of a performance difference? or a level of sound difference? i put the motor 14" back from the nose so the foam is not too thick, its about .75" thick in the prop cutout area.

    b. is it best to cut 2 big bays in the middle over the center of gravity (one for batteries and one for electronics) or cut the batteries into the leading edge of the plane?

    is 2 4s 5000mah (1062g) too much for a dr xl? how about 2 3s5000 batteries (848g)?

    i dont have any fpv gear to put on this yet and will be learning to fly it for a little while while set up like a park flyer.

    would the bays be better for an evolving plane that will be taking on more and more weight over time? seems that i would be able to keep the plane in tact better than if i were to be constantly chopping bits out for new equipment.
    Last edited by tmophoto; 12th May 2012 at 02:20 AM.

  8. #88
    Pilot FPVdude's Avatar
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    a. YES, makes it quieter/a tiny bit more efficient possibly
    b. big bay in the middle is weaker, wing bays stronger, go for wing bays unless you add some sort of plywood reinforcement to a center bay.
    cant answer anything else
    but I would like to know if this wing is thick enough to fit 2 4s 3300 or 4s 4000.

  9. #89
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    its about 1 3/4" thick at the thickest section just behind the front wing spar, not really deep enough for the 4s5000 or 3s5000's they would fit nearly flush but there would be no reinforcement or anything holding them in

  10. #90
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    how do people set these planes up to use different sized batteries? seems like they need to be custom made to the gear that is installed with no room for changing things around once the plane is built.

    I was hoping to slowly build this up into a FPV plane but seems like i will never get the COG right if i make it without all the camera gear then add that later in a few months.

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