New molded Ritewing Zephyr II

[Mongrel Gear]

SO today I managed to get the wings joined, the motor mount installed, and the spars in place.

One thing though... When gluing in the spars, I could not get the CA to do anything. It would go hard but then just fall away. It was like the Gorilla Glue was preventing it from doing anything. Likewise with Hot Glue, so I had a hell of a time. Anyone else have this issue?

Cheers
Mongrel

[kev.au]

I sanded my spars and made sure i didn't get any Gorilla glue where i wanted to use CA, also cleaned the spars with Alcohol.


Used CA accelerator too.

[citation560v]

Hi all , I completed the build on my Zephyr II the other day .. its ready to go except im struggeling with the battery size.. I know the 3300 is the general concensus .. the Nano-techs were the only ones I found.. are people using them ? Do they perform ?? I got a bunch of 4500 4S nanotech and they were really bad for me .. yet there other 2200 3 S nano's are great.. Whats everyone using ?? Has anyone putter a greater mAh pack in ??

Here is the build. It has been laminated since etc but you get there idea...

[Hotdog1]

I'm using 2x 4000mah nano tech's

[Freshmint]

I'm using 2x 4000mah nano tech's

flight time?

[Hotdog1]

Over 20min with varying throttle settings with some WOT passes

once I get my set up dialed in I will see how long I can cruise for my guess would be 30min

[Freshmint]

People are getting 30mins with 3300mah so no point in using 4000mah?

[F11music.com]

Here are some final pictures of my build. I'm going to maiden it without the video system plugged in and maybe some replacement weight in the camera bays. Later I will add another castle 10A BEC to power the video system. The immersion vTx can take 4S but the remzibi needs 2S -3S. I think 9V from a castle will be better than tapping the 11.1 from the 4S. For now I will get 11.1V off the balance port until I get the programmer kit to change the voltage on my other castle.

The only doubt I think I have before I maiden it is the amount of elevon up and down. I have it going the max it will go down and up I'm not sure how to measure. I'm using the MG servos that chris sent and put the rod on the 3rd hole down from the tip of the servo arm and on the top hole of the horn. Is this about the norm or is it not that critical?

And what is the most standard prop? I got the upgraded motor chris supplied with the 70A ESC. No brand names on either. I have a 9 x 6E sport prop. Will that do? I know when I full throttle it, I can barely hold on to it. This same prop was on my skywalker with a smaller motor and it was no slouch but this is going to do some verticals

It seems the placement of the servos is not correct. Shouldn't they be parallel with the elevon? They are more parallel with the front edge of the wing which makes it difficult to get a non binding movement. It works because the servos are strong but on my second one, I'm going to put them a little further out on the wing and a little closer to the elevon so the rod is not so long and flexes less. I will also put my UHF and vTx all the way to the wing tip and bury the wires under the wire spar.

[ritewing]

The controll surface wil not bind, the angle is fine, they need to barley move and are centerd for the

best cg and weight centering to keep performance top notch , reinventing the wheel is not needed.

This wing is not like others, plus the controll surfaceas are top notch balsa, they complete the foil.

This makes for minimal controll input, they wil not flex and cause issues.

If you run 4s keep the prop to around a 9/6 or so.
If you are using 256 rod its a good idea to sleeve the controll rods with CF , you should also have the controll rod connected to the lowest horn you can on the servos

[chicken sashimi]

Hey guys.. so as Chris recomends, i'll be using a 10x5 prop on my 3s 1200kv setup.
Which prop? Does it even matter which i get, as long as it's 10x5?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22428
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=20296