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Thread: TBS CAIPIRINHA - small flying wing

  1. #4211
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss View Post
    I'll check them out - not sure of the specs. Figure you're going to need to get close anyway (mile or 2). I doubt anything is going to connect to anything at ground level 10 miles away with hills, forest and structures in the way, unless it's taking to satellites... My plan is last known coordinates from crossfire rx, or if it's a plane that I've got dragon link in, last known from DVR, then radio hunt from there. I don't know shit about ham radios yet, so just got what they said would work. I'm sure there are much, much better ones than a $25 radio for sure, but like I said I'm just starting to get into it.

    Scott
    Well the freq the comspec runs on is pretty low so it should do pretty well getting through obstacles. Of course 10 mile is LOS. But between last known gps coords on the dvr (or mission planner app) I should be able to get within a couple of miles at which point I will pick up the signal almost certainly. I've used this system before and it is very effective but yes it's pricey. But I already have the rdf which is the biggest investment. LIPO's cost $50 in our hobby so $75 doesn't bother me much for the tx's. Plus it's pretty easy to move it from plane to plane, so you only need a few.


    ps I am modding my towhook design on thingiverse to work with the caipi2 so I can bungee launch. Mine has an AUW of 1.6kg so I won't be hand launching this one. I have to mod it so it will fit into the battery box structure. Normally I just hog out foam and pop it in with goop but the foam where it has to go is thin. So I am thickening the base of my towhook design and adding a notch to reach the battery box and mesh with one of the wooden formers. Unfortunately I have to notch one of the battery straps in half because it's in the way. But it's still plenty strong.

    I am also reverse engineering the winglets to 3D print them. Since the coroplast won't hold up and will get filled with dirt I will print ABS ones with sealed edges. Stronger and easier to keep clean. And I will probably goop them in since those screws will simply not hold up over time. I know you want them to come off in a hard landing. Maybe just glue them on lightly...

  2. #4212
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billyd View Post
    Well the freq the comspec runs on is pretty low so it should do pretty well getting through obstacles. Of course 10 mile is LOS. But between last known gps coords on the dvr (or mission planner app) I should be able to get within a couple of miles at which point I will pick up the signal almost certainly. I've used this system before and it is very effective but yes it's pricey. But I already have the rdf which is the biggest investment. LIPO's cost $50 in our hobby so $75 doesn't bother me much for the tx's. Plus it's pretty easy to move it from plane to plane, so you only need a few.


    ps I am modding my towhook design on thingiverse to work with the caipi2 so I can bungee launch. Mine has an AUW of 1.6kg so I won't be hand launching this one. I have to mod it so it will fit into the battery box structure. Normally I just hog out foam and pop it in with goop but the foam where it has to go is thin. So I am thickening the base of my towhook design and adding a notch to reach the battery box and mesh with one of the wooden formers. Unfortunately I have to notch one of the battery straps in half because it's in the way. But it's still plenty strong.

    I am also reverse engineering the winglets to 3D print them. Since the coroplast won't hold up and will get filled with dirt I will print ABS ones with sealed edges. Stronger and easier to keep clean. And I will probably goop them in since those screws will simply not hold up over time. I know you want them to come off in a hard landing. Maybe just glue them on lightly...
    Nice. I think those mods will do well. I'll give the coroplast ones a run and see how it turns out. I'm going to use the door protectors like I do on my other coro landing planes on the bottom half to turn it into a proper skid and keep junk out of there. Yeah, $75 for a radio is super cheap. I wouldn't mind spending a few hundred bucks on a good one if I needed it. Just don't know enough yet to know what I need. Probably going to watch some videos on radios and maybe some study material. I hear it's not that hard to pass the tech ham exam once you've got some basics down, so why not...

    Scott

  3. #4213
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss View Post
    Nice. I think those mods will do well. I'll give the coroplast ones a run and see how it turns out. I'm going to use the door protectors like I do on my other coro landing planes on the bottom half to turn it into a proper skid and keep junk out of there. Yeah, $75 for a radio is super cheap. I wouldn't mind spending a few hundred bucks on a good one if I needed it. Just don't know enough yet to know what I need. Probably going to watch some videos on radios and maybe some study material. I hear it's not that hard to pass the tech ham exam once you've got some basics down, so why not...

    Scott

    Oh yeah the tech exam is easy there are online resources where you can take practice exams and if you do enough of them you'll eventually see 99% of the potential questions and answers.

    Well the tx's I am talking about are the beacons and they are tiny and 300mw but yes you need a ham license to operate in the band they use. The comspec system is a hand held radio direction finder that uses volume of the tx signal to tell the user the direction to head. So the radio direction finder is like $350, and then the micro tx's are $75. The tx's run on a button cell, which you leave removed until launch (they last a week continuous). It's not a good idea to add a switch to them or run them off the main lipo with a regulator since in a crash the switch could open or the main could be disconnected. The tx's put out a regular beep at like 1 second intervals that you can hear on the rdf. So it's like a game of hot/cold. The nice thing is the signal isn't constant the noise created is minimal as far as harmonics interfering with other stuff on the aircraft (of which I haven't seen in use).

  4. #4214
    Quote Originally Posted by billyd View Post
    Well I got a fair amount of work done today (I was home "sick" from work). Here's the equipment I am using

    PNP Caipi2
    HRB 4sx5000 50C lipo (first time trying this brand, cheap and decent reviews)
    MFD AP with current sensor, GPS and airspeed sensor
    TSLRS NR rx with Dipole mod (so it flies nearly as far as the LR one only lacking the diversity antennae which are a pain to install on a small plane)
    Dragon link 433mhz dipole antenna
    IRC 5.8g 600mw raceband Tx with Foxeer 5.8 RHCP antenna
    Foxeer Arrow V3 FPV cam
    Runcam3
    RMRC regulator for 12v (12v for the AP, Tx, fpv camera and sensors)
    LC filter for 12v
    Hi

    what’s the AUW of this wing and does it glide (or better how steep or flat) without motor?
    And how is ‘slow fly’ or does she has to be flown fast with your setup?

    Thx in advance

    jan

  5. #4215
    Quote Originally Posted by funkjan View Post
    Hi

    what’s the AUW of this wing and does it glide (or better how steep or flat) without motor?
    And how is ‘slow fly’ or does she has to be flown fast with your setup?

    Thx in advance

    jan
    It's 1.6kg with the 5000mah lipo (I updated my earlier post). Haven't flown it yet but I'll let you know once I maiden it. I plan to bungee launch it, and I expect it will fly great. Landings will be with some speed however.

    Does anyone know the wing area of the Caipi2?

    Edit: I guessed at 500 in^2 for wing area of the caipi2 and according to Ecalc the stall speed is 21mph at 1.6kg.
    Last edited by billyd; 13th February 2018 at 10:27 AM.

  6. #4216
    Quote Originally Posted by Hmerly View Post
    I found the winglets were too thin. I glued and screwed them on but they still get torn up pretty quickly where I land. Rough gravel or concrete.

    The bay covers are terrible. They’re neat but unnecessary and as you noticed, don’t even work well. I taped mine down as well.

    I never like folding props and will probably move to using a regular prop. Didn’t trim anything, long as they can open fully you’ll be fine. Balance on folders is never good. You can balance them but it’s a pain to do.
    Yep I'm going to take a shot at balancing the folder but I suspect it won't be easy. I have a 10x6 apc on the shelf if things go south...

  7. #4217
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billyd View Post
    Oh yeah the tech exam is easy there are online resources where you can take practice exams and if you do enough of them you'll eventually see 99% of the potential questions and answers.

    Well the tx's I am talking about are the beacons and they are tiny and 300mw but yes you need a ham license to operate in the band they use. The comspec system is a hand held radio direction finder that uses volume of the tx signal to tell the user the direction to head. So the radio direction finder is like $350, and then the micro tx's are $75. The tx's run on a button cell, which you leave removed until launch (they last a week continuous). It's not a good idea to add a switch to them or run them off the main lipo with a regulator since in a crash the switch could open or the main could be disconnected. The tx's put out a regular beep at like 1 second intervals that you can hear on the rdf. So it's like a game of hot/cold. The nice thing is the signal isn't constant the noise created is minimal as far as harmonics interfering with other stuff on the aircraft (of which I haven't seen in use).
    Awesome. Yeah, those are the ones I got I think - tbeacon Amber (best ones I saw available on their site). I think they were $59 or something like that. I got the ftdi programmer with it too. Should be coming soon.

    Scott

  8. #4218
    Flyer of the lands Hoss's Avatar
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    Realizing that I'm going to spend approximately 0.001% of my time flying with no throttle (a second or 2 before landing), so going to throw a regular 10x6 on there. Plus, the added weight of the giant metal blade holders, nuts & bolts to hold each blade on, the balancing issues that are inherent in this contraption and the loss of efficiency and increase in amperage from having to swing all that around probably far outweighs any actual benefit from the small reduction in drag if you happen to be gliding with no throttle on - which, unless you're slope soaring or thermaling (probably not going to be in this plane), is probably almost never. It looks cool... That's about the extent of it...

    Scott

  9. #4219
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss View Post
    Realizing that I'm going to spend approximately 0.001% of my time flying with no throttle (a second or 2 before landing), so going to throw a regular 10x6 on there. Plus, the added weight of the giant metal blade holders, nuts & bolts to hold each blade on, the balancing issues that are inherent in this contraption and the loss of efficiency and increase in amperage from having to swing all that around probably far outweighs any actual benefit from the small reduction in drag if you happen to be gliding with no throttle on - which, unless you're slope soaring or thermaling (probably not going to be in this plane), is probably almost never. It looks cool... That's about the extent of it...

    Scott

    That really is a good point Scott. The closer I get to maiden the more I think I'll just put the fixed prop on there. My plane is slightly tail heavy at this point too and I still am working on the 3D printed fins which may make that worse (they will be a tiny bit heavier than the coroplast fins). So even more reason to remove the folder.

    Also if you use medium brake on the motor so the prop doesn't free spin how much drag is there? I would guess pretty minimal with respect to the weight of the plane...
    Last edited by billyd; 13th February 2018 at 01:37 AM.

  10. #4220
    Having a really hard time getting a good 3D print of the fins. Due to their size shape and thickness it's difficult finding a combination of good strength, weight and no warpage. I think I'm going to have to try something else. Perhaps I could print them in PETG which doesn't warp but I hate the look of the plastic, it's ugly.

    Also I ended up ordering a different LIPO. I got the HRB 4sx6000 lipo. The one I have isn't heavy enough to get a good CG, I needed 70 grams of weight in the nose to get the CG. I also need 21 grams of weight on the right wing tip to get the lateral CG right. This mostly due to the AP (and all the cabling) on one side of the airframe. So the 4sx6000 is about 70 grams heavier which at least gives me weight and more power instead of just weight.
    Last edited by billyd; 14th February 2018 at 12:10 PM.

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